Galignani's Traveller's Guide Through Holland and Belgium (2025)

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"In 1731 a fire broke out in the royal palace, and spread with such violence that the whole was soon reduced to ashes (excepting the royal chapel) in the course of twelve hours. This beautiful palace had been a long time the residence of sovereigns, and in 1553 seven crowned heads had resided within its walls. The quantity of riches and curiosities which perished in this fire was immense, the great gallery containing many pictures of the famous painter Rubens was entirely consumed."--Galignani's Traveller's Guide Through Holland and Belgium (1819)

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Galignani's Traveller's Guide Through Holland and Belgium (1819)

PREFACE.

The kingdom of the United Netherlands jes not boast so many natural beauties as me other countries, it nevertheless will bt yield to any in the interest which its arly history and present character inspire. Whenthe rest of Europe groaned under an ondespotism, and was involved in com- jarative ignorance and barbarism, the court f the Counts of Flanders was the chosen esidence of liberty, civilization, and lite- ature; and whenthe barks of other nations scarcely dared to venture beyond the sight of land, the ships of the Flemish merchants traversed everysea, andAntwerpand Bruges monopolized the commerce and the wealth of Northern Europe.

The noble and the successful struggle which the Dutch maintained against their Spanish oppressor, and the prominent part which so small a republic bore for many ages in the politics of Europe, will give to Holland a sacred and venerable character in the estimation of the literary and pa- triotic traveller.1590375ΝΟΥ 25190154067 190vj PREFACE .In no country will the tourist be pre- sented with so complete and wonderful atriumph of human industry over the ap- parently insuperable obstacles of nature.Holland is fairly wrested from the empire of the sea. The power which can truly,and in its full extent, be attributed to divinity alone, has been here exerted by mortal energy; and the inhabitants of the northern provinces have dared to say, and have said with effect to the raging ocean,<< Hitherto shalt thou go and no farther,<< andhereshallthyproudwaves be stayed. >>> A strangely mingled feeling of admiration,pleasure, and fear pervades the mind ofthe spectator, when he walks at the foot of some of the immense dykes, and hears on the other side, and only a few feet from him, the surges dashing above his head;and thinks that on the stability of this em- bankment, depends the existence ofmany a flourishing town and some hundred thousand souls .In the southern provinces the traveller will witness the triumphs of human in- dustry in a less imposing but not less pleasing point of view. He will here be presented with the absolute perfection of agriculture. The fertility of a soil natu- rally poor, the luxuriance, the product-PREFACE. vijiveness, the uninterrupted succession of crops, are unparalleled in the agricultural history of the world.The kingdom of the Netherlands is not however, destitute of the real beauties of nature. The voyage up the Meuse, fromMaestricht to Namur, is only excelled by some parts of the scenery of the Rhine;and the hills of Luxemburg exhibit all thewild and romantic views of Switzerlandon a smaller scale .Recent events have given to the Nether- lands a deeper and a warmer interest in the estimation of the English traveller.The unrivalled skill of the British general,andthe unconquerable valour ofthe British soldier, were eminently displayed in the battle of Waterloo. That engagement,whether we consider the sanguinary ob- stinacy with which it was contested, the utter rout of the enemy, or its glorious and decisive results, is unequalled in the military annals of Europe. Thefields of Waterloo will in every future age be reckoned a kind of classic ground by the British tourist.The reader will find an accurate descrip- tion of the scene of this memorable conflict.We have first given a concise history of the Netherlands, their constitution, reliviij PREFACE.gion, commerce, productions, character,and manners, thatthe touristmaybe enabled to form some general and correct idea of the people and country which he intends to visit. We then conductthe reader, by the most practicable and pleasant routes,through the various provinces of the king- dom, noticing every object of curiosity,and even the most inconsiderable towns.Every traveller has experienced how much morepleasantlyhe pursues his course,when he is acquainted with even the namesofthe villages through which he passes, or which are seen on either side. Hisattentionis then continually kept alive, he knows what objects he is to expect, and he feels himself no longer a stranger in a foreign country. No map could supply the in- formation which is here given. No map extant contains one-fourth of the names.The account of the various modes oftravelling, the necessary cautions on the road, the principal inns at each town, the time at which the different stages andvessels start, the productions, manufactures,and commerce, of every place, and the complete table of coins, are important features of the work.GUIDETHROUGH THEUNITED NETHERLANDS.PART I.GENERALDESCRIPTION ofthe NETHERLANDS.CHAP. I.The Boundaries, Extent, and Climate of the Netherlands .THEkingdom of the Netherlands, containing <<the Old United Provinces, and the former <<Belgic Provinces, together with the Grand <<Duchy ofLuxemburg," extends from 49° 20'to53° 30' north latitude, and from 2° 30' to 7° 0east longitude. Itis about 270 miles in length,and 180 in breadth, containing 17,200 square miles, and4,600,000 inhabitBelgium contains 252 inhabitants onevery square mile, and Holland no less than 274.The Netherlands are bounded on the northand west by the north sea, and the GermanA2 HISTORY OFocean , on the south by France, and on the east by Prussia and Hanover.Holland may be considered as little more than alargemarshdrained by humanindustry.This, with its proximity to the sea, renders its climate cold and damp, The climate of the Netherlands is more genial, yet too chilly and humid.Holland preserts a perfectly level plain, in- tersected by innumerable rivers and canals.Not a mountain is to be seen in the whole ofthe northern provinces, and the only inequa- lities of the ground consist of the diminutive sand-hills on the coast, and some gentle un- dulations of hillock and dale , in the province of Utrecht, and on the borders of Prussia.The surface of Belgium is likewise generally level , except towards the east, and particularly in the duchy of Luxemburgh, where are some inequalities which perhaps deserve the name ofhills, but can seldom be considered as moun- tains. In picturesque and romantic scenery,however, these districts will scarcely yield to the wildest and mostmountainous region ofEurope.The soil of Holland, rich with alluvial remains, is admirablysuitedfor pasturage. The soil of the Netherlands is a rich sandy loam,sometimes interspersed with clay, but oftener with unmixed sand.THE NETHERLANDS . 3CHAP. II .History ofthe Netherlands.THE early history of theNetherlands is enve- loped in complete obscurity, and we can trace little with certainty before the time of Julius Cæsar. When that conqueros invaded Gaul,this country was inhabited by various warlike tribes.Inthe course oftwo campaigns, the Romans had over-run the whole ofGaul to the frontiersofBelgium. Cæsar had profited by the weak- ness and dissensions of the various tribes, and,attacking them separately, had found them an easy conquest. But the Belgæ, learning wisdomfromthe misfortunes of others, formedasolemn and powerful, confederacy to defend themselves from the wanton and unprovoked attack of lawless ambition.On the borders of the Sambre, not far from Namur, they made their last stand for the in- dependence of their country. The Roman approachedwith anarmymore numerous than hehad commanded in any former period of the campaign, and strengthened by those who should have fought in a better cause. He encampedonthe banks ofthe river. The Belgæ,eager to chase the invader from their land,passed the Sambre in the dead ofthe night,unexpectedly attacked the intrenchments of Cæsar, and penetrated into the very heart of his camp. The Romans were thrown into4 HISTORY OFmomentary confusion, and the auxiliary horse fled to Treves, bearing the report that their army had been defeated and cut to pieces .But the Belgæ had to contend with the star of Cæsar, and the best disciplined troops in the world. The irresistible phalanxes of the legions where soon formed, and led against them. Invain they opposed their osier shields to the impenetrable armour of the invaders,in vainthey fought with all the courage which patriotism could inspire, and all the fury of despair. Thefortune ofthe Romans prevail- ed, and, out of more than 60,000 warriors who rushed on to the attack, only 500 sur- vived.The Batavi, who had not joined the confe- deracy, were alarmed, and adopted a prudent,if not a patriotic plan. They immediately despatched ambassadors to Cæsar, tendering,not exactly their submission, but their alliance,and offering to assist him with a considerable body of troops in the prosecution of his con- quests. The proposal was gladly accepted,and this tribe alone became the ally of the Romans, without a previous struggle for their liberty.The assistance of the Batavi was ofsuch eminent use to Cæsar in his contest with Pompey,and so soon did they rival their masters in discipline and bravery, that Augustus chose them for his body guard. On the other hand, the inhabitants of Holland were under considerable obligations to the Romans. Claudius Drusus, in the year A. C. 10, began the nobleTHE NETHERLANDS . 5canal from Zutphen to the Yssel, which yet bears his name. It is likewise said, that heelevated the first bank against the encroach- ment of the sea, and thus may be consi- dered as the founder of those immense dykes which are justly the pride of the Netherlands,and the admiration of the world .About the end of the second century, nu- merous hordes of Saxons broke in uponthem,and expelled or destroyed most of the Batavi ,and the other Belgæ. In the 7th century,the Frisians, the next adjacent people in the north, overran the Netherlands, and extendedthemselves as far as the Scheldt. These werein their turn subdued by the Franks under Charles Martel, in the 8th century, so that the present Belgians may be considered as the mingled descendants ofthe Belgæ, the Frisians ,and the Franks .The Netherlands had long been divided into various provinces, belonging to different fa- milies, and governed by different constitutions.These petty sovereigns began now to be known by the names of Dukes, Marquises, and Counts.The earldoms of Flanders , Hainault, and Holland were successively established, and often exercised considerable influence on theaffairs of Europe. Under the counts of Flan- ders, the southern provinces attained an emi- nence of splendour and power, of which few traces now remain. Philip the Good, Count of Flanders, displayed at Bruges a magnifi- encewhichnotmany sovereigns could rival, A.6 HISTORY OFand possessed a power which none of them dared to provoke. The princes among whom the Low Coun- tries were divided, were engaged in perpetual wars with the neighbouring potentates, and with each other. In these contests their per- sonal and hereditary revenues were frequently exhausted, and they were compelled to have recourse toe benevolence of their subjects. The people, feeling their power, judiciously refused the requisite supplies, except on certain conditions favourable to their liberty; and they gradually extorted from the monarch so many concessions, that the provinces partook more of the nature of republics, than of regalgovernments. The supreme authority was nominally lod- ged in the person ofthe magistrate,butactually in the assembly of the representatives of the people. This assembly met whenever the members deemed it expedient, independent of, or even contrary to the pleasure of the sovereign. Without the concurrence of this assembly no war could be undertaken, no taxes could be imposed, no new laws enacted; and no prince, although the government was he- reditary, was allowed to assume the sceptre until he had solemnly sworn to observe and maintain the fundamental laws ofthe country. In this situation the provinces of the Nether- lands long remained; yet notwithstanding they gradually increased in power, in com- merce, and in civilization, nothing occurs for many ages sufficiently distinct and importantTHE NETHERLANDS . 7to be related in the slight sketch to which we are now limited. At length, by intermar- riages, by conquest, and by the failure ofthe male line in some of the reigning families,they all fell under the dominion ofthe house ofBurgundy, about the middle of the 15th century. After this event, the provinces con- tinued to enjoy their ancient privileges, and to be governed according to their ownlaws.Under the administration ofthe princes of Burgundy, and even long before, trade and manufactures flourished in the Netherlandsmore than in any other European state. No city, except Venice, possessed such extensive traffic as Antwerp. It was the great mart of the commerce of the world. It contained200,000 inhabitants, Bruges nearly as many,andGhent boasted amore numerous popula- tion than the metropolis of France. More than 100,000 artificers were employed there in the woollen manufacture, long before the art was known to the English.It is interesting and important to inquire into the cause ofthis unequalled prosperity.The Netherlands were undoubtedly much in- debted to their situation, and the nature of the country. They lay in the centre of Eu- rope, commanding the entrance and naviga- tion ofseveral of the great rivers ofGermany.and they were almost every where intersected by these rivers, or by canals, or branches of the sea, admirably fitting them for foreign andinland trade. But these advantages would never have enabled the Flemings to leave the8 HISTORY OFother European nations so far behind them,if the form of their government had not been peculiarly favourable to their exertions. The greatest advantages which nature affords for improvement in commerce or in the arts of life, will be rendered useless by an injudicious or tyrannical exercise of the civil power.When the person is insecure, or the fruits of many a long year's economy and industry may be seized by the rapacious hands of adespotic prince, it is folly to expect that men will apply themselves with vigour to com- mercialpursuits. Happily for the inhabitants of the Low Countries, the small extent of the different principalities, and the constant ne- cessities of their princes, rendered it impolitic and even impossible for the sovereign to executeanyplan oftyranny against the people.The princes were perfectly aware ofthis, and,with a good grace, sanctioned those funda- mental laws, which indeed somewhat abridged their prerogative, but greatly augmented their power and resources, by means of the pros- perity which their moderate government ena- bled their subjects to attain. In no country in the world were the sovereigns so powerful in proportion to the extent of their territory:in no country in the world did the people exhibit such ardent attachment to the prince,or cheerfully submit to greater sacrifices .At the death of Charles the Bold, in 1477 ,the government of the Netherlands descended to his daughter Mary, while the duchy of Burgundy became united to the crown ofTHE NETHERLANDS .9France. Mary, or rather her evil counsellors who took advantage of her youth and inex- perience, shewed too evident a disposition to encroach on the liberties of the Flemings;and being detected in acorrespondence with her father to effect this purpose, two of her ministers were impeached by the States-Gene- ral, convicted of treason against their country,and condemned to die. In vain the princess resorted to entreaties and threatenings to savethem from death: in vain, she even rushed upon the scaffold, and, dissolved in tears,supplicated their pardon:-the executioner inflicted the fatal blow in her very presence.In the autumn of the same year she married Maximilian , son of Frederick III. emperor of Germany, and, by this union, the Netherlands passed under the dominion ofAustria .Many years under this new dynasty passed with the marked desire of despotic power,the frequent artful attempt at encroachment on one side, and watchful jealousy and steady resistance on the other, until Charles V., the grandson of Maximilian , assumed the reins of administration. He perhaps might easily have subdued them had he been inclined touse his power ungenerously, and his arbitrary temper had sufficiently appeared in his go- verninent of Spain and Germany , in both of which countries he had trampled on the dearest and most valuable rights ofthe people.But he wasborn in the Netherlands , and hadpassed there his happiest days. He loved the people, for their manners, less reserved and10 HISTORY OFstately than those of the Spaniards, accorded with his habits and taste. He therefore restrained his love ofdespotic rule, and permitted them to enjoy unmolested the freedom which they so highly prized. The Flemings were grateful for his kindness. They liberally assisted him in the wars in which he was almost continually engaged, and except the insurrection of the people ofGhent, no con- siderable disturbance happened in the Nether- landsduring his reign. The eloquenthistorian of Charles V. scarcely found one opportunity ofmentioning them in all the busy period of that monarch's administration.Charles would gladly have transmitted to his son Philip the affection which he bore towards the Netherlands, and the warm attachment and unvaried loyalty which they had displayed towards him. For this purpose,hecausedhim to spend some time inFlanders;and when he formed the romantic resolutionof retiring from the world, this constitu- ted a prominent feature in the pathetic and admirable exhortation which he addressedto him. But Philip could not enter into his father's views, nor love a people whose manners were so different from his own.The protestant religion had lately been widely and rapidly diffused through Belgium.It had been imported by the French and German and English refugees, who had esca- ped from the persecutions carried on against them in their native countries. Charles hadendeavoured to extirpate this growing heresy.THE NETHERLANDS . IIHe had had recourse to the faggot and the sword. But when numbers of the most industrious and valuable of his subjects fled from his power; when he saw his noblest provinces beginning to be depopulated; when the trade and commerce which distinguished his beloved country were enriching other lands, he wisely recalled his cruel orders, and permitted the Flemings to worship theirGod as their consciences dictated.Philip was the child ofsuperstition andbi- gotry. He had scarcely seated himself on the throne, ere he revived every inhuman edict, and commanded the magistrates to carrythem into rigorous execution. He was even heard to declare, that if executioners were wanted to give full effect to the bloody decrees ofthe inquisition, he would himself become one , and that he would rather bewithout subjects than reign over heretics.Every man who taught heretical doctrines,everymanwho was even present at ameeting of heretics, was ordered to be put to death by the sword, and every womanburied alive.A peculiar tribunal was established for the suppression ofheresy. Persons were commit- ted to prison on bare suspicion. They were tortured on the slightest evidence. The ac- cused were not confronted with their accusers.They were not even made acquainted with the crimes for which they suffered. Their possessions were confiscated, and their fa- milies reduced to beggary.To enforce this diabolical persecution, the12 HISTORY OFcountry was inundated with Spanish soldiers.These lived at free quarters on the inhabit- ans, and committed with impunity every kind of outrage. The Flemings at first offered no resistance, but they refused to work at the dykes, saying that they had rather be swal- lowed up by the ocean, than remain a prey to the terrors of the Inquisition, and the licen- tiousness of the soldiery. The States-general remonstrated against these oppressive pro- ceedings; butPhilip, whowasnaturally haugh- tyandunyielding, who considered the liber- ties claimedbythe Protestants in religious mat- ters , as utterly incompatible with his thirst for despotic power, and who had taken a solemn oath to devote his reign to the defence of the Popish faith, and the extirpation of heresy,was immoveable..Driven to absolute despair, the people rose tumultuouslyagainst their oppressors in many places: but being undisciplinedand unarmed,they were easily subdued. These insurrections afforded Philip new pretexts to give free licence to his bigotry and revenge. The duke of Alva was despatched to the Netherlands with unli- mited power to torture and destroy. He was an agent well calculated to execute the savage designs of his master; and he entered on his execrable office with a demoniacal zeal . Noage, sex, or condition, was spared. Many, who had only once been present at a protestant as- sembly, even though they declared their faith in the catholic religion to be firm and unsha- ken, were hanged or drowned: while thoseTHE NETHERLANDS. 13who professed themselves protestants were put to the rack , to force them to discover their associates; they were then dragged by horses to the place of execution, their bodies committed to the flames, and their sufferings prolonged with ingenious cruelty.Many ofthese noble martyrs bore unshaken testimonies to the truth in the very extremity of their tortures. To prevent the effect of thisgood confession on the surrounding spectators,the tongues of some were torn out; others had them burned with a glowing iron; and others were screwed into amachine contrived to pro- duce the most excruciating pain. Wives were put to death for affording shelter to their husbands; children for performing the like kind offices to their parents; and a father was exe- cuted for allowing his son, who had returned from banishment, to lodge under his roof fora single night. During the administration of this monster in human shape, eighteen thou- sandpersons suffered bythe hands ofthe public executioner.Resistance was ineffectual, and seldom attempted, for the partial insurrections which tookplacewere easilysuppressed, and furnish- ed an excuse for more aggravated cruelty.Their only safety consisted in flight, and thousands of refugees carried to other countries the industry and the skill for which the Netherlands had, during so many ages ,been distinguished. It is said that more than 100,000 houses were abandoned. The popu- lation of the principal cities was evidently B14 HISTORY OFthinner, while many of the smaller towns were almost desolate. Agreat proportion of those who fled from persecution sought refuge in England, where they were kindly received by Elizabeth. That princess was well reward- ed by the introduction into her kingdom of many branches ofmanufacture withwhichher people had before been unacquainted. From this period we may date the origin and rapid progress ofEnglish manufacture.Many of these exiles could not, however,forget the land which gave them birth, and which was endeared to them by a thousand ties. Under the Prince of Orange, and as- sisted by some auxiliary troops from the Ger- man protestant princes, they determined on one noble effort to deliver their country; but they were soon defeated anddispersed by the duke ofAlva.The cause of freedom and humanity now seemed desperate. All attempt at insurrection had ceased. They who were best capable of defending their country's liberties had either perished on the scaffold, or submitted to vo- luntarybanishment; andthose who remained,brooded over their miseries in silent despair ,whenAlva, adding absurdity and folly to op- pression and tyranny, roused the dormant spirit ofresistance, and excited a universal re- bellion, which gave employment to the arms ofSpain during half a century, exhausted the vigour, ruined the reputation of that monar- chy, and terminated in the acknowledged free- domandindependence ofthe United Provinces .THE NETHERLANDS . 15The people of the Low Countries had never been accustomed to be taxed by their princes.The power of imposing taxes belonged to the assembly ofthe states; and when the princehad occasion for money, he had, from the earliest times, petitioned the states for a supply;which they either granted or refused as they were satisfied ordispleased with the reasons for demanding it, But Alva, without any pre- vious application to the assembly, and of his own simple authority, now proceeded to levy taxes more oppressive than the people could haveborne in their most flourishing condition;and he enforced the payment ofthem with arigour absolutely unexampled. This caused general discontent, spirited remonstrances, and at length, universal insurrection.Itmay appear surprising thatthe imposition of taxes , however burdensome, should have wroughtmore powerfully on their minds than the cruel persecutions which had been exerci- sed with such unrelenting fury on account of religion. But the reason is obvious. The per- secutions extended only to a certain number of individuals, whereas the taxes effected all alike, and must have proved the source ofuni- versal and perpetual oppression; and perhaps the peculiar love of money, for which the Dutchhave, with some truth, been character- ized, was not without its influence.It is not our intention, nor will the limits of thepresent chapter permitus to enter into the details of the sanguinary and ferocious war which now commenced. The Flemings again16 HISTORY OFcalled to their assistance, William, Prince ofOrange, known afterwards by the name of William I. He was the representative of the ancient and illustrious family of Nassau, in Germany, and inherited several rich posses- sions in the Netherlands. Never was any per- son better qualified for the arduous task of delivering an injured people from the yoke of their oppressors. To vigilance, application,and sagacity, he united a peculiar dexterity in governing the inclinations of men, and conci- liating and preserving their affections. He proved himself, what the Hollanders even of the present day fondly call him, the father of his country, and the guardian ofits liberty and laws . He generously sacrificed his interest,his ease, and his safety, to the public good;and, after an arduous contest, in whichhe ex- perienced alternate reverses and success, and in which he did more than was ever done before in such unfavourable circumstances by any patriot, he fixed on firm foundations the independence and the prosperity of Holand.In 1579, he accomplished the union of Utrecht. The provinces of Holland, Zealand,Utrecht, Guelderland, Friesland , Brabant , and Flanders , entered into a solemn confederacy to support each other in the assertion of their civil and religious liberties. Brabant and Flanders, overrun by the Spanish troops, torn by religious feuds, and weakened by their in- veterate bigotry, again submitted to wear their chains. The northern provinces obstinately maintainedthe struggle, and in 1609compell-THE NETHERLANDS. 17ed the Spaniards to acknowledge their inde- pendence.From this time the country was known by the two grand divisions of Belgium, or the Netherlands, and Holland. Belgium remain- ed under the government of Spain, and piti- able indeed was the situation of those ill-fatedprovinces. Byemigration, by the hand of the executioner, and by the sword, a great part of the countrywas nearly depopulated: andonly a few of those who remained had either seedto sow, or horses and cattle to cultivate theirgrounds. Multitudes innumerabledied of want,and of those pestilential diseases which want and unwholesome nourishment produce. InAntwerp, Brussels, and other places, many persons of the better ranks in life, after sel- ling all their furniture and effects to purchase food, were reduced to beg openlyinthe streets .In Brabant and in Flanders, several villages were entirely deserted, and from the solitude and desolation which prevailed, wolves and other beasts ofprey so rapidly multiplied, that morethan 100 persons were devoured by these ferocious animals within two miles of Ghent,in the best and most cultivated region ofthe Netherlands .The ten provinces under the milder admi- nistration that succeeded, gradually recruited their population, and their wealth; but the principalpart of their trade was irrecoverably fled. Amsterdam had monopolized all the trade of Antwerp and Bruges; and although these countries are interesting to the travelE.18 HISTORY OFler, and have again, to a great degree, become the abode of commerce, literature and thearts , they are but the shadow of what theywere.The Netherlandsremainedunderthegovern- ment of Spain, until the memorable victory of Ramillies , in 1706, when Brussels, and a great part of the provinces, acknowledged Charles VI. , afterwards Emperor of Germany, for their sovereign. The Austrians retained pos- session of them until the war of 1741, when the French overran and reduced them; but,at the interference of Holland and England,restored the greater part in the year 1748.The house of Austria remained in undisturbed possession until 1788, when the Em- peror assumed prerogatives more extensive thanhis subjects were disposed to allow, and the Flemings rebelled against his authority.The rigorous, or rather the barbarous mea- sures to which Joseph hadrecourse in order to quell the insurrection, shocked and exaspera- ted even the most moderate. The whole po- pulation flew to arms, and ere the close ofthe year, the patriots were masters of every place in the Netherlands , except Antwerp and Luxemburg. Had the Emperor lived a few months longer, the Low Countries would have been for ever lost to the House of Austria. Atthis critical period he died: and Leopold,whose disposition was known to be mild and benevolent, succeeding, and judiciously com- mencing his reign with the most gentle and conciliatory measures, the Flemings againinTHE NETHERLANDS. 19duced to submit to the Austrian government,at the close of the year 1790.In 1792, the Frenchinvaded Belgium, under General Dumourier, and overran it with an incredible rapidity. In 1793, it was almost entirely re-conquered by the Austrians, but retaken by the French in 1794. It was then incorporated with the French Republic, and in 1797 the Emperor formally renounced all claim to it. In this situation it remained untiltheglorious campaign of 1813 , when it was again separated from France, and, by the con- gress ofVienna, annexed to Holland, and de- signated by the title of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.The northern states, which after the Union at Utrecht assumed the name of the UnitedProvinces , or were better known by the title ofHolland, hadno sooner thrown off theyoke,thanthey increased more rapidly than their southern neighbours declined in commerce,wealth, and population. Every house was occupied; new streets and new towns werebuilt; and the people grew richer every day,notwithstanding the perpetual burden of an expensive war. A multitude of merchantsflocked fromBrabant and Flanders, to Holland and Zealand. The calamities of the ten subjugated states increased the emigration, until Holland became the seat ofthegreatestpa of part that industry and prosperity which for ages past had distinguished the Netherlands above the rest of Europe. Notwithstanding the contracted limits of20 HISTORY OFthe territories ofthe Dutch, they began to bear a prominent part in the politics of the conti- nent . Their land- forces were sufficient to repress the insults of their neighbours, and their navy rivalled that ofEngland. Theydespatch- ed many adventurers to the east, and took pos- session of several tracts of country in the Indies, which excited the displeasure of the English, and gave them just cause offear.The faithful historian is compelled to nar- rate that in their eagerness to establish foreign colonies, and to make the most of their com- mercial advantages, they were guilty of atro- cities disgraceful to human nature. Theman whose bosom, while he remained in Europe,appeared to glow with an unextinguishable love of freedom, was, when abroad, the tyrant and the scourge of those who fell under hispower.For some years the Hollanders retained agrateful recollection of the assistance afforded them by England in their struggle for inde- pendence. But interest and gratitude were soon opposed. The English and the Dutch di- vided the commerce ofthe world. They be- came jealous of each other; and each seemed - to think that the greatness of the one was in- compatible with the prosperity of his rival.The ambassadors ofCromwell had receivedsome trifling or pretended insult at the Hague.Both nations were too proud, or rather too disposed to quarrel, to make the slightest con- cession. The war of 1651 commenced, and so rapid had been the increase of the powerTHE NETHERLANDS. 21Theof the Dutch, and so nearly balanced was the strength ofthe belligerents, that in the course of one year seven great battles were fought,with variable and almost equal success.genius of Britain ultimately prevailed, and theDutch, routed in repeated engagements,and crippled in their commerce, sued forpeace.These commercial rivals were, however, far from being sincerely reconciled, and 12 years afterwardsasecond war commencedongrounds as frivolous as the former. At one period of this contest, Admiral VanTromp with abroom at his mast-head, swept the Channel; but the English soon regained their wonted superio- rity, and peace was concluded on equitableterms.The power of the Dutch continued to in- crease, andfrom 1702 to 1712, they were prin- cipals in the grand confederacy against the insatiable ambition of Louis XIV.Many years may now be passed over, as they afford little that willbe interesting to my readers. When Great Britain was engaged in the contestwith America, the Stadtholder was favourable to the royal cause; but he could not restrain the avidity of many of the mer- chants, who clandestinely supplied the Ame- ricans with prohibited warlike stores. Thiscontraband trade at length became so noto- rious, that England was compelled to repress it by force; which led to a new war betweenGreat Britain and Holland. This war wasmost disastrous to the United Provinces. Their22 HISTORY OFnavy was destroyed, their colonies taken, and their trade completely ruined Holland had lately been distracted by con- tending factions. The Orange or government party was friendly to the cause of England;but the populace, and most of the merchants had been misled by the intrigues of French emissaries, and espoused, what they called,the cause ofliberty, Asuccession ofdisgrace- ful defeats excited the animosity of the two factions to the highest degree. The patriots attributed these disasters to the treachery of the Stadtholder; and he reproachedthemwith having,bytheir avarice anddishonesty, plun- ged their country into a war for which it was unprepared. Both parties flew to arms; and the provinces would have been deluged with blood, had not the King of Prussia suddenly marched a considerable body of troops into Holland, and, overawing both parties, effected an apparent reconciliation. The seeds ofdis- cord however yet remained. The Stadtholder,whose notions of government were somewhat too arbitrary for the people over whom he presided, was engaged in continual quarrels with the States. The Dutch were ripe for revolt; and when the French revolution burst out, and spread its baneful influence over every neighbouring country, they eagerly offered themselves to the fraternal embrace, and com- pelled their unfortunate sovereign to seek for shelter on the hospitable shores ofBritain.Holland was now united to France, and form- ed a part of her enormous empire.THE NETHERLANDS.23 The pretended patriots were much andde- servedly disappointed in the benefits which they expected to reap from a union with France. Their commerce, crippled before,was now reduced to the lowest ebb; their children were torn from them by arbitrary and unceasing conscriptions, and the wild and unprincipled schemes of Napoleon toshut the continent against British manufactures,drove them to absolute despair. Afaint gleam ofhope dawned upon them, when (May 24,1806,)Holland was declared a separate king- dom, and given to Louis Bonaparte, the bro- ther ofNapoleon. He, however, possessedthe mere shadow of royalty, without any of its privileges. He was the mere slave of his brother's caprice. It is said that he pitied and lovedhis people, that he would fain have de- voted himself to the promotion oftheir in- terests, andthat he actually connived atmany things inconsistent with Napoleon's views: but whenhe found thathe mustsanction measureswhich his soul abhorred, and whichwould im- poverish and ruin, rather than benefit the people whom he had sworn to protect, he resigned a crown which he could no longer wearwithoutdishonour(June 30, 1810).Holland was now once more incorporated with the empire of France, and the Dutch ex- perienced their full share of oppression and injury, They therefore hailed with joy the overthrow of the scourge of theworld.For awhile they seemed to forget their cha- racteristic apathy. The cry of Orange Bo-24 HISTORY OFven" was enthusiastically spread from town to town. With one simultaneous movement( Νον. 13 , 1813, ) they every where expelled the oppressors of their country; while, with adignity and moderation worthy of freemen,they disdained to wreak their vengeance on afallen foe. The Stadtholder was invited toreassume his former government, and Holland once more looked forward to days of prospe- rity and happiness.Succeeding events placed the whole of Bel- gium at the disposal of the Allies, who, in the congress of Vienna, determined to annex it to Holland, and thus form a sufficient barrier against the power of France on that side.The 66th Article of the act of the congress of Vienna declares, that «the old United Pro- vinces , and the former Belgic provinces, to- gether with the Grand Duchy ofLuxemburg,shall form, under the Prince ofOrange-Nas- sau, the kingdom of the Netherlands.»The Belgians, who were at first reported to be unfriendly to the union, and disaffected to their new sovereign, have shewn, by the noble share which they bore in the battle of Water- loo, that they valued the privileges conferred upon them; while the heir-apparent of the reigning prince has proved himself worthy to rule over his newly-acquired territories, by shedding his blood in their defence. If the King of the Netherlands has the address to conciliate both his old and his new subjects, so opposite in character, in pursuits, in habits ,and in religion, the country may regain, ifTHE NETHERLANDS . 25not its wonted superiority in commerce and wealth, yet a very high degree of prosperity and influence; unless, indeed, thatpowerwhich so generously fostered the infant kingdom,should become jealous ofits growing energies ,and wantonly subvert the edifice which it has principally contributed to raise.The situation of the Netherlands is mosthappy. It is placed in the very centre of Eu- rope. By the sea it communicates with every -distant country. By its numerous canals it affords every facility for domestic trade; andbyits rivers it commands the principal com- merce of Germany. Its soil is productive al- most beyond belief. It is defended by the sea ,and by rapid rivers on every side but one,where it is protected by an iron chain of for- tresses; and if the monarch be firm, yet con- ciliatory and patriotic, and the people loyal and industrious, it will speedily recover from its present degradation, and again become the admiration ofthe world.CHAP. III .Religion ofthe Netherlands .THE new constitution of the Netherlands«secures to all forms of worship equal favour and protection.» As the reigning family is Protestant, it is very prudently added, «In par- ticular, we guarantee to the Catholic church,G26 RELIGION OFits establishment, and its liberties; and we shall not lose sight of the examples ofwisdom and moderation which have been left us by our predecessors>>.The inhabitants of Holland and ofBelgium differed no less in their religious opinions, than in their manners and their dress. In Hollandthe tenets of Calvin principally prevailed, and the higher offices ofthe state could be filled only by Calvinists; but, with this exception,every religion was permitted and cherished, ifit did not oppose the fundamental laws of the constitution. Theliberality, the truly Chris- tian charity which prevailed among the dif- ferent sects , were delightful to behold; and,to the disgrace of the Christian world be it spoken, were peculiar to the little territory of Holland. Aquarrel, or even an unpleasant feeling on subjects of religious controversy,was unheard, unknown. <<We are citizens ofHolland, let us agree to differ, >> was the un- answerable argument which closed every re- ligious dispute. In no country were the va- rious places of worship more respectably filled -innone was the appearance of the worship- persmore becoming. This apparent liberality was not the consequence of religious indiffer- ence. It was the child ofcircumstances . Although the cruelties of the reign ofPhilip com- menced with a murderous persecution against the Protestants, this was not the cause of that insurrection which terminated in the freedomofthe United Provinces . The immediate causeoftheir resistance, as I have already stated,THE NETHERLANDS. 27was thearbitrary levying andrigorous exaction ofoppressive taxes. This equally affected every citizen, andall united in defence of their liber- ties. Protestants and Catholics fought side by side, and endured together calamities of which the annals of the world scarcely afford a pa- rallel . Athousand opportunities occurred, to shew that the principles ofeither religion could inspire a patriotism that no bribes could se- duce, and a fidelity that no sufferings could shake. The remembrance of the glorious contest , to the successful termination of which they had equally contributed, and the bene- fits which they had procured for each other,taught themmutual esteem . All their former religious feuds and prejudices were con- signed to oblivion, and universal toleration ,or rather unbounded liberty of conscience,became the Hollander's creed. In some remoteand happier period every nation will emulate their conduct. Bigotry and persecution will be knownno more, andall party distinctions will be lost in the comprehensive and endear- ing name of Christian.The Calvinists were formerly exclusively supported by government in the provinces of Holland. The ministers of every religion now receive a fixed salary, but the Calvinists retain the parish-churches, and their pastors receive alarger stipend than those of other sects . The presentation of every living throughout the kingdom is in the gift of the king. It is true thatthe recommendation of the principal pa- rishioners is usually attended to, butthis is a28 RELIGION OFmere matter of favour, and depends on the royalpleasure forits continuance. Thehigher offices of state are no longer in the exclu- sive possession ofthe Calvinists, but persons of every sect are equally eligible to offices of ho- nour or emolument, whether civil or military.The only test required is an oath of allegiance to the sovereign and the state .The following is a tolerably accurate state- ment of the numbers of the different sects inthe ancient provinces of Holland:-The Re- formists or Calvinists have 1,260 congrega- tions; the Catholics, 600; the Jews, 103; the Lutherans, 46; the Remonstrants, 28; with an inconsiderable number of inferior denominations of Christians .In Belgium the Catholic religion prevails,and other sects were, until lately, almost wholly unknown. The liberality oftheDutch was a stranger even to a country so near.The Belgians were proverbially superstitious and bigoted. The cause ofthis is not difficult `to be assigned. Aspirit of civil and religious liberty every where prevails most, and burns with the purest and brightest flame, in the bosoms of the middle and commercial ranksof society. These have lately formed only a small part of the population of Belgium,or rather were almost annihilated. The merchants and manufacturers fled to the northernprovinces, and few remained but the nobles ,the ecclesiastics, and the poor. It requires but a slight acquaintance with history to be convinced, that ignorance and bigotry mustTHE NETHERLANDS. 29form the characteristic features of such apeople.It must be acknowledged that since the French revolution a considerable change has taken place. Other sects are no longer insult- ed and persecuted; but in the unceasing processions which parade the streets, and which it would be dangerous for the traveller,by the slightest gesture, to ridicule, and in the whole conduct of the Belgians, it is evi- dent, that bigotry and superstition yet form a principal part of the religion of the common people.Protestant chapels have for some years been tolerated in Brussels; and it will be the plea- sing duty of the new sovereign of the Nether- lands while he prudently takes care not to shock the prejudices of his southern subjects,gradually to inspire them with some portion ofthe liberality oftheir northern neighbours.CHAP. IV.The constitution and Government of theNetherlands .THE government of the different provinces of the Netherlands had for many centuries,and through the influence of the causes which I have already stated (page 6), been favour- able to the liberty of the subject, without diminishing the security and splendour of theC30 CONSTITUTION,sovereign. The Belgians had been uniformly jealous of their rights and privileges, and they had strenuously maintained them amidst all their vicissitudes, and against the most powerful monarchs.In 1579, the Prince of Orange formed aconfederacy of the states of Flanders against the tyrannical oppression of Philip. This alliance was called the Union of Utrecht, be- cause it was consummated there. It was theorigin of the present constitution of the Ne- therlands, and contained its fundamental laws .When the Hollanders were permitted to enjoy some respite from the attacks ofthe Spaniards,they took this act as the ground-work of their plan, and digested the constitution bywhich their government was so long administered,and the leading principles of which are yetretained.The name alone of the chief magistrate is changed. The Stadtholder is no longer known,but, agreeably to the fashion of the day, aKing, with nearly the same prerogatives, now sways the sceptre of government.The following is a sketch of the present constitution of the Netherlands. The English- man will observe with pleasure how closely it is formed on the model of the British constitution; and if the resemblance is inmany respects more apparent than real, and the government of Belgium be not so favourable to the liberty of the subject, as that which is the Briton's proudest boast, it is at least as liberal as the spirit ofthe times could permitGOVERNMENT, &c. 3гus to expect, and far superior to that of most of the continental states.The northern provinces retain their former names and limits; and the southern provinces are divided into the several districts by which they were anciently known.In every considerable town or district an electoral college is appointed, or certain per- sons are delegated to elect others to fill the provincial offices of state. The members ofthese colleges were originally selected by the king, and perhaps were fairly chosen from among the most opulent and best informed inhabitants of the town or district, although it cannot be denied that there was too muchroom for the exercise of courtly favour and undue preference.When a vacancy occurs in the college, no public meeting is convened to elect a new member, but an officer goes from house to house, and collects from every person who pays a sufficient quota of taxes, a paper signed and sealed, and containing the name of the candidate on whom his choice falls . Thesebillets are opened by persons who are sworn not to divulge the names or the choice of the individual voters, and the candidate,whom they affirm to have the majority of votes, is declared to be the new member ofthe electoral college. The members of the college retain their situation during life.The electoral college nominates certain de- puties, who are called «The states of the Province, They are charged with the exe32 CONSTITUTION,cutionofthe laws relative to religious worship,public instruction, and the encouragement of agriculture, commerce, and manufactures.They control the expenditure of the local administrations, and are charged with every thing that belongs to the interior economy of their province. They likewise hold their si- tuation during life.The States of the province elect other de- puties who form the second chamber of the <<States - General.» They are supposed to represent the interests of the people, and they exercise many of the important functions of the British House of Commons: but, not springing immediately from the people, not being dependent on public opinion, nor even dependent on those who must look to the favour and suffrage of the people for the con- tinuance oftheir honoursand emoluments, they cannot be expected really and substantially to represent the interests, or at all times to speak the wishes ofthe majority of the citizens .No new law can emanate from the secondchamber. It can only deliberate on the pro- jects of laws, which have been presented to it by the king or the council of state; but it pos- sesses the right of petitioning the council to propose any law. With the second chamber resides the right of levying all taxes and im- posts, but with this diminution ofits salutary powerand influence, that the financial budget is submitted to its consideration, once only in ten years. For ten years, therefore, the so- vereign enjoys a revenue completely indeGOVERNMENT, &c. 33pendent ofthe consent or control of the repre- sentatives of the people. It is easy to see what fatal use a monarch despotically disposed might make of this privilege.Another circumstance relating to the second chamber, and unfavourable to the liberty of the subject, is, that all the members are not elected at once, like the commons of England,but one third ofthe chamber is renewed every year. The whole numberconsists ofonly 110 deputies, and it is not difficult for government,with all its influence and patronage, annually to re-elect 36 members devoted to its interests.Another chamber, resembling the British House of Lords, stands between the prince andthe people, and professes to restrain the en- croachments of either. No new law can emanate from it , and it has simply the power of approving or rejecting the project submitted to its consideration.Theconstruction ofthis chamberis radically faulty, and destructive of its independence and political weight. The members are very pro- perly appointed by theking, but their number is indefinite. They must notbe fewer than 40,nor more than 60. An artful and wickedprincemayneglect to fill up the vacancies, and suffer them to dwindle to the lowest numberthat the constitution will permit, that he may pour in an overwhelming force of sycophants to carry any despotic or hateful measure.Those whom he does appoint must not be young men, whose political characters may34 CONSTITUTION,not have been completely developed, or in whose bosoms the glow ofpatriotism may not be quite extinct, but persons ofmore than 40 years of age; persons whose principles are perfectly known, and by whom the expecta- tions of the prince will notbe disappointed.The peerage is not hereditary, and it is only by a complience with the wishes ofthe court,and a subserviency to all its views, that a member ofthe upper chamber of the States-gene- ral can hope that his honours may descend to hisfamily.In another particular, and that of vast im- portance, the inferiority of the Belgic consti- tution is apparent. The right of petition is one ot the greatest importance in every state that boasts of freedom. Judiciously, extensi- vely, and energetically exercised, it is the ter- ror ofcorruption and despotism, and the safe- guard ofliberty. No minister, and no prince will dare to oppose the voice of the people unanimously and strongly expressed. In the constitution of the Netherlands, the right of petition is recognised, but it can only be exec- cised by the individual, and inhis ownname.It cannotconvey the sentiments and wishes of any number or body ofpeople. This restric- tion renders the existence of the rightnull and void; or rather, so far as it regards any gene- ral political purpose, it becomes a vain and delusive mockery.The members of each chamber are distinguished by the title of " Noble and Puissant Seignors. " The regular sitting of each chamGOVERNMENT, &c. 35bercommences on the third Monday in Octo- ber, and is held alternately in the northern and southern provinces; but the sovereign is empowered to call an extraordinary sitting whenever he maydeem it expedient.With the king resides the power ofmaking war orpeace, appointing ambassadors , minis- ters, and judges; convoking, proroguing, or dissolving the States-general, approving or re- jecting theprojects oflaws, and every function oftheexecutive .The person of the monarch is inviolable,andhis ministers are responsible for every act ofmal-administration.Every arbitrary arrest is forbidden. If, on urgent occasions, the government causes an individual to be arrested, he mustbe brought within three days before the judge to whom the law assigns him.The unjust penalty of confiscation is abo- lished.Thejudges are independent, and appointed for life by the king, on the presentation of the Provincial States or the States-general.All judicial sentences must bepronouncedin public, with the reasons on which they are founded. The trial by jury is however abo- lished, even in criminal cases.The abode of every citizen is inviolable.No classes are exempt from the payment oftaxes.Everysubject oftheking is eligible to all em ployments, without distinction ofbirth or re- ligiousbelief.36 CONSTITUTION,Theliberty ofthepresshas no other restraint than the responsibility of him who writes,prints, or distributes. The most precious of all rights, liberty of conscience, is guaranteed in the most formal manner. Every religion is equally protected by the laws of the state.No imprisonment for debt is allowed, except on bills; and the creditor is then compelled to afford the debtor a comfortable subsistencewhile in prison: but attachments against the property ofa debtor are readily procured, and promptly excuted.The crown of the Netherlands is declaredhereditaryin the house ofOrange-Nassau,which professes to trace its descent from a Roman fa- mily that accompanied Julius Cæsar in his ex- pedition to Gaul, and which enumerates among its ancestors some of the Emperors of Germany.The present king wasborn August 24, 1772;and married Frederica Louisa Wilhelmina ofPrussia , in October 1791 . From this union sprung William-Frederick- George-Louis, hereditary Prince of Orange,born December 6, 1792; William-Frederick- Charles, born February 24, 1797; and Wilhel- mina- Frederica- Louisa- Charlotte- Marianne,bornMay 9, 1810. 1ThePrince of Orange, after an unsuccessful snit to the justly-beloved, and universally- lamentedCharlotte-AugustaofWales, married February 21 , 1816, Anne-Paulowna, Grand Duchess ofRussia, and sister of the EmperorGOVERNMENT, &c. 37Alexander. She was born January 18, 1795.The fruit of this marriage is a son, born Fe- bruary 19,1817, and named William-Alexan- der-Paul-Frederic- Louis .The whole ofthe civil list ofthe Netherlandsdoes not exceed 220,00ol. The Prince ofOrange, as heir-apparent, has only 18,000l.per annum. Each member of the secondchamber has a salary of 220l., and each mem- ber of the first chamber 270l, per annum.augurs not well of their independence, when they submit to receive stipends so insignifi- cant.ItThe taxes for the support of the state are not materially different from those in England,with the exception of two particulars. The window-tax is not estimated according to the number or extent of the windows, but the rentof the house. This is a principle which the British government would do well to imitate.No circumstance strikes a traveller so forcibly as the light and airy appearance of the houses onthecontinent, comparedwith the blankand dead aspect of the noblest private edifices in the British islands.If, however, the Belgians have the advan- tage ofEnglishmen in onetax, they suffer more materially from that which I shall next men- tion. Averyconsiderable part of the revenue of the Netherlands is derived from a tax onpatents, and it is enacted that no person shall exercise any profession or trade without a pa- tent. All this would be fair were the sum required for the patent fixed and determinate.D40 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.Dutchman to live considerably within his income. It is reckoned almost as disgraceful in the Hollander to have lived a year without adding something to his stock, as it would in the inhabitant of another country to dissipate the whole of his property. Before the late wars, the Dutch were the proprietors of the spices of India, and silks ofChina; but the use of these luxuries was almost unknown among them. The food of the common poople was chiefly vegetables and fish, and their clothing the plainest woollen stuff. They have even been known to purchase the coarsest English cloth for their own wear, and to export their fine Leyden cloths to other countries. They have bought the cheapest butter and cheese from Ireland , and the north of England, for their ownconsumption, and sent the excellent productions of Holland to foreign markets .The following anecdote is authentic, and will exhibit thefrugalityand parsimoniousness of the national character. As the Spanish am- bassadors were travelling to the Haguein 1608,, to negotiate a truce with the Dutch, they saw several persons step out of a little boat, and seating themselves on the grass, each took from awallet which he carried behind him,some bread and cheese, and beer. Accident- ally inquiring who these peasants were, they were told that they were the deputies of the states, the sovereign lords and masters of Holland.This industry and frugality are kept in constant activity by a love ofmoneywhichMANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 4absorbs every other propensity. The deli- neations of national character are too oftenmonuments of prejudice and injustice; but candour itself is compelled to acknowledge that the ruling passion ofthe Dutch is avarice.The love of money, not as a means, but as an end, is paramount in the mind of almost every Dutchman, whatever may be his other dispositions and qualities. The addiction to it is fervent, inveterate, invincible, and uni- versal, fromyouth to the feeblest old age. It is alove ofmoney altogether peculiar to the soil.It leads to no hazardous speculations, however flattering; it commits nothing to the power of chance. Themostadvantageous commerce is ne- glected, or abandoned, if it does not carry with it the certainty of profit. The gains of the Hol- lander are sure. He can calculate them tothe nicest fraction. His expenditure; which is also most scrupulously calculated, rarely exceeds the half of his profits. Thus every year finds him richer; and the silent progress of accumulation and interest, at length swells his property to an amount frequently almost incredible. It is an essential part ofthe creed of a Dutch merchant, that more fortunes are raised by prudence and economy, with small gains and little risk, than by bold expensive speculations, however flattering they may ap- pear. Consequently he never outtrades him- self; he never extends his scheme beyond his capital , and a failure or bankruptcy is arareoccurrence .AHollander never loses an opportunity ofD.42 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.gain. History furnishes us withsome remark- able and ludicrous illustrations of this . Inthe last war, when the importation ofEnglish manufactures was rigorously prohibited, the very government itself contrived tosupply the requisition for the clothing of the French army, by a clandestine importation ofEnglish cloth; and accordinglythe looms of Yorkshire clothed ten thousand French soldiers. It islikewise related, that in an obstinate engage- ment between the fleets of the Republic and Great Britain, and during a cessation of the fight, for the mutual accommodation ofrepair- ing, the officers of the Dutch ships actually offered their opponents supplies ofgunpowder at an advanced price, understanding that two or three of their ships had nearly exhausted their ammunition.It is not, however, meant to affix any stigma of dishonesty on the commercial character ofthe Dutch . While they yield not to any people in the art of enriching themselves,theyyield not to any in fair and honourable dealing. The credit of the merchants of Amsterdam used to be unlimited, and threefourths of the money remitted from one state ofEurope to another,formerly passed through their hands.The natural result of this characteristicperseverance and frugality is, that no country can vie with Holland in the number of thoseinhabitants who possess ahandsome compe- tence; and it should likewise be stated that their riches rarely generate pride. A Hol-MANNERS AND CUSTOMS . 43lander, in the pursuit of his favourite object,will seldom step one inch out of his way, or surrender one moment of his time to save hisneighbours from inconvenience; but when that object is attained, and he has amassed all the wealth which even a Dutchman candesire, he never gratifies the little pride, nor assumes the little triumphs, which fill so much of life with unnecessary miseries. It remains to be determined, whether this pro- ceeds from elevation of mind, or natural phlegm andwant of feeling. Ifthe question be decided by the opinion of the majority of travellers, the art of getting money has sup- planted every noble thought.While this is given as the prevailing cha- racter, numerous amiable and splendid excep- tions will occur. It is likewise undeniablethat the events of late years have effected no inconsiderable change in the manners of the people. Their commerce was sadly crippled,and almost destroyed; their intercourse with the French increased; they formed a part of the French empire, and they imbibed no little portion ofthe French character. A spirit of frugality has gradually declined among many classes. The merchants, and even the me- chanics have begun to approximate to the luxury of their neighbours; and some of the magistrates, and the nobility rival those of any other part of Europe in their table, their buildings, their furniture, and their equipage.The change has been rapid, but it has not been total. The features of the old Dutch charac44 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.ter still predominate, and the traveller will recognize the accuracy of the picture which the author has drawn.The strangerwill be struck with the peculiar neatness and cleanliness of the Dutch houses.The outside of every habitation, however old and humble, is as clean as water and paint.can make it. The window-shutters are usually painted green, the houses are white. In order to preserve on them the gloss of newness,mops, pails, and scrubbing-brushes, are in active use every hour of the day, and a little hand-engine for the windows is in perpetual requisition. The inside ofthe house is equally purified, and every article offurniture is kept in a state of nicety, of which few other na- tions have any conception. In some parts of Holland, this anxious attention to cleanliness is carried to a most ridiculous length. In the little village of Brock, which resembles more a Lilliputian city in a toy-shop, or rather afairy-town, than aplace of human habitation,the streets are kept in such exquisite order,that some travellers have asserted, that a cat or adog never trespasses upon them. It is said, but with how much truth I will not pretend to determine, that a man was once reprimanded for sneezing in the streets, and that a new clergyman was treated with great coolness by his congregation, because he did not pull offhis shoes when he ascended the pulpit.The servants often form a strange contrast to the cleanliness which surrounds them, andMANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 45which they so industriously preserve. While they anxiously keep the highest polish on the meanest utensils , the dirt accumulates undisturbed on themselves. Females of the middleand higher classes are, however, by no means deficient in scrupulous attention to personal cleanliness .One part of theirdomestic economydeserves severe reprobation-the practice of giving vails to servants. This is so universal, and the expectations of these menials are so exorbitant, that it is not uncommon, where muchcompany is kept, for servants to purchase their places of their masters. The stranger should therefore provide himself with a few florins when asked to dine with a friend , lest,on a second invitation, he should be remindedof his forgetfulness, by a little gravy or cus- tard being spilled on his coat. The common present which the servants expect is a florin for a dinner or supper, and two florins aday,as long as the lodger or visitor remains in the house.The Dutch are not celebrated for theirhospitality to strangers. If a foreigner has aletter of recommendation to a merchant , heis received with politeness; but the counte- nance of the Dutchman is soon clouded, if the visit be prolonged more than a few mi- nutes. Perhaps the traveller is invited to dinner on the morrow. He goes after thehour of exchange: he is treated with much cordiality; he is presented with ahandsome,if not a luxurious repast; but at four o'clock46 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.the merchant rises from the table withoutceremony, and retreats to his counting-house,the wife retires to her nursery, and the stran- ger amuses himself as he pleases.A regard to truth obliges me nevertheless to state, that a foreigner well recommended no where meets with more real civility than among some of the first merchants of Am- sterdam. Hereceives an immediate invitation,and if his manners be not extraordinarily rude or repulsive, a place at table is always re- served for him afterwards.The man, at the close of his daily avoca- tions, either repairs to the coffee-room, where he passes the evening enveloped in an impe- netrable cloud of smoke; or he goes to the Société, where he muses over the publications of the day, or listens to some debate often as dull and as sluggish as the canal which flows under the window; or he betakes himself to the Spielhouse, where, unconscious either of passion or digust, and with an apathy which even there does not always forsake him, he gazes on the meretricious allurements and forced gaiety of the wretched prostitutes who crowd the place: or, if he retires with his family to one of the many pleasant gardens and summer-houses that surround every Dutch town, he betakes himself to his constant com- panion the pipe, and the females sip their tea,ordiligentlyemploythemselves in needle-work,not indeed in unbroken silence, but that pret- ty, pleasing, unruly member the tongue, is not employed with quite so much activity as intMANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 47the female society of most other countries.The summer-houses of these gardens gene- rally look out on some road, or place of public resort; and the Hollander seems to derivemuch pleasure from gazing on the rapid suc- cession ofpassengers. So fond, indeed, is he ofthis tranquil enjoyment, that, projecting from the apartments fronting the street, are oftenplaced two mirrors, which reflect, in apleasing manner, every passing object.To the pleasures of the robuster field-sports the Hollander is insensible. The very nature of the greater part of his country precludes the possibility of hunting; and his shooting is confined to the wildfowl and snipes that plentifully inhabit the banks of the canals.To a milder and more contemplative sport he is exceedingly attached. The canals and lakes of Holland abound with fish; and theDutchman has often some little detachedbuilding, or some apartment of his house,where he can sit at his ease, and insnare the finny inhabitants of the waters.It must, however, be confessed that the accounts which travellers have been accustomed to give of the insensibility and phlegm of the Dutch have heen abundantly over- charged. The characters ofmen, their employ- ments, and their amusements, are not very dissimilar in all the large cities of Europe.The Hollander is, perhaps, somewhat more phlegmatic than his neighbours. He is more industrious than they are, and his time is more constantly employed in the affairs of com48 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.merce; but when the hours of business arepast, he will often enter into the amusements of life with the keenest relish.When the Dutchman is roused from hisapathy, his passions are restrained within no bounds. The violence of the reformers pre- vious to the commencement of the noblestruggle for independence; the murder of the Grand Pensionary De Witt, whose remains were outraged by an infuriate mob for many successive hours; and the frequency with which the common people have recourse to the knife on the most trifling quarrel, are proofs of this.The passion of the Dutch for tobacco is proverbial. This herb constitutes their prin- cipal amusement, and his regarded as a pa- nacea . It is curious to observe how naturallyapipe depends from a Dutchman's mouth.He usually smokes without the assistance of either hand, he rides on horseback with apipe, he drives in a carriage, and even dances with it. He often goes to an astonishing ex- pense in this favourite implement. It is form- ed of the most costly materials, and moulded into a thousand fantastic shapes. The lowest orders of society invariably have in their pockets a pipe, a picker, a piece of dried fungus, a steel and flint, and an enormous tobacco-box; and even the higher classes are rarely without these necessary appendages.Almost every twentieth shop professes to sell tobacco . On the counter ofeach is a fire- pan or a light, with plenty of matches, forMANNERS AND CUSTOMS . 49the use ofthe customer; and in manyprivate houses the fire-pan is the usual ornament of the table or sideboard.Ahorribly beastly custom formerly prevail- ed in Holland, but is now almost confined to the lower ranks of society: a large spitting- pot is introduced immediately after dinner,which is handed round the table as regularly as the bottle, and into which each guest in his turn discharges his saliva . Avery different and more amiable propen- sity of the Dutch is their passion for flowers.Every house has its garden, which, though small, is filled with the most beautiful andvaluable plants, Four hundred and seventy- five guineas have been offered and refused for a single hyacinth, and tulips are sometimes valued at ioo or even 150l. a root.The ancient and national dress of the Hollanders is nearly confined to the fishermen,and part of the peasantry. In the little vil- lages which so thickly line the sea-coast, the traveller yet sees that mighty mass of breeches caricatured in every English print-shop, and which gives to the Dutch form its apparent and peculiar bulk and solidity. The women wear close jackets with long flaps, and short (plaited coloured petticoats, sometimes con- sisting ofmore than a score yards of flannel,and giving a strange and ludicrous rotundity to a certain part of the female form. The petticoat reaches but a little below the knee,and usually displays a neat and well-turned leg, covered with ablue stocking. AyellowE52 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS .as the circumstances of the family will admit,takes place. At this the nearest relative pre- sides . The glass passes briskly round; bumper after bumper is drunk to the repose and wel- fare of the deceased, and the prosperity of those whom he has left behind him, until theirgrief is completely drowned in wine. Songs,at first decent, but afterwards boisterous and ludicrous , succeed. The musician is then called in; the widow leads off the first dance.and the amusement continues until the dawn ofday separates the merry mourners. Thesestrange festivities were carried to such an excess, that they were expressly forbidden in the province of Overyssels.In Belgium the case is far different, and the remains of the nearest relative are treatedwith an indifference and brutality that outrage every feeling ofpropriety and humanity. In less than 48 hours the body is hurried to itslast home. Acar or caravan, in which per- haps several corpses have been already de- posited, calls at the house in the dead ofnight;and the body, generally without a shroud,and enclosed in the meanest coffin, is conveyed to the burial-ground, unattended by a single mourner. It is there hurled into apit withthe other inhabitants of the caravan, and some imperfect and maimed rites are perform- ed over the whole.Asingular custom is observed when any one is ill. Asmall board is placed before the doorcontaining a daily bulletin ofthe invalid's health. On alying-in, the board is tastefullyMANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 53decorated with lace. By this admirable ex- pedient the anxious inquiries of the friends of the family are satisfied, while the sick person is not disturbed, nor the domestics harassed by the continual racket of the knocker.On the celebration of a marriage, instead of the bride-cake which is frequently distri- buted in England, it is customary for the newly-married coupleto send to each acquaint- ance two bottles of wine, generally the finest hock, spiced and sugared, and decorated with a profusion of ribands.Marriage is regarded in the Old United Provinces as purely a civil contract. The magistrate publishes the banns, and performs the ceremony; previous to which a notice of the intended marriage is affixed on theHotel de Ville for public inspection. After this the parties generally repeat the ceremony in their respective parish churches, but this is not compulsory on them. After the marriage aregister is produced, divided into several co- lumns, entitled the nobles, the rich, thosewho possess a competency, and the poor.The bridegroom enters his name in whatever column he pleases, and according to the rank which he assumes, is the fee demanded of him. The marriages of British protestants are celebrated by aclergyman of the church of England in the house of the British ambas- sador.The wedding-ring is worn in Belgium on the third finger of the right hand, and the ladies take great pleasure in covering almostE.54 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.every finger ofboth hands with enormous and expensive rings.Our housewives will smile at the Dutchmethod of airing linen. A basket called trokenherb, contains within it a pan filled with burning turf, and the linen is spread over the top of the basket. To air the bed, no warn- ing-pan is used, but the whole of the cum- brous machine just described is put between the sheets.Amore abominable method of increasing the animal heat prevails amongn the females ofevery class. Awoman cannot go to church in the winter season, or even sit in her own apartment, without a chauffepied, or little pot with burning turf under her petticoats. It is often ludicrous to observe how eagerly the domestic animals shelter themselves in thiswarm and mysterious sanctuary. The natural result of this pernicious custom is, that the complexions ofthe most beautiful women soon become sallow, and the appearance of old age steals on them long before its time.In many parts of Holland, and in almost the whole ofBelgium, the method ofwarming their rooms is extremely unpleasant to the stranger. There are either no chimneys, or they are generally closed, while an iron stove projects into the room, in which wood or charcoal is burned, and from which a long tube proceeds either into the chimney, or into another apartment. The consequence ofthis is, that the atmosphere of the Dutch roomsMANNERS AND CUSTOMS . 55is peculiarly suffocating and unwholesome to the traveller.In most of the towns of Holland the towercontains fifty or a hundred small bells, accu- rately tuned, called Carillons. They are struck byhammers connected with aset ofkeys, like those of a piano-forte or organ, while pedals communicate with the great bells. On these the player or Carilloneur strikes with violence,having the edge of his hand guarded with thick leather, and thus is enabled to executethe most difficult pieces of music. In large towns, it is his sole employment to amuse the inhabitants an hour or two every day; and the exertion is so great, that he is obliged to take frequent respites, and generally to go to bed as soon as his time is expired. At a dis- tance, and the sound passing over water, this music seems like the notes a very sweet organ.One improvement is wanted, a muffler adapt- ed to each bell, to stop the vibration, and to prevent the notes from running into each other.TheDutchmenaregenerally short and stout.The womencomparatively are taller than the men, and not destitute ofpersonal grace and beauty. They possess atransparent delicacy ofcountenance, but their features are often void of expression. The white and fishy face,assomeill-natured travellers haveunjustly call- ed it, is perhaps the necessary consequence of their preposterous treatment of infants. For the first two or three months the windowsare never opened to receive one breeze of56 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.refreshing air. To wash the child with cold water would be deemed certain murder; and the miserable little creatures are swathed roundwith rollers until they are as motionless as amummy, and afterwards invested with flan- nel upon flannel, until the mass of clothing is of enormous bulk. Every infant is thus ne- cessarily pale and squaly. A healthy child is seldom seen, and the foundation is laid for diseases which no skill can afterwards remove.Whatever displeasure or disgust the travel- Jer may feel at the too frequent mercenary spirit and rude behaviour of the men, he will allowthe womenthe just praise of neatness,cleanliness , modesty, civility, and humanity.He will not find the vivacity of the French, or even of the Belgians. He will possibly com- plain of a reserve which the attentions of astranger cannot easily subdue; but if he has the opportunity ofbeholding the female in her domestic circle, he will bear a willing testi- mony to her pleasing qualities, and sterling virtues.The careless hasty traveller has no oppor- tunity of justly appreciating the characters of the women. When they know and esteemtheir visitor, they exhibit none ofthat phlegm which often makes the society of Dutchmen dull and fatiguing: their art and timidity disappear, and their lively and amiable dis- position shews itself without disguise, and to their honour and advantage.In Holland, more perhaps than in any other country, the female finds her truest pleasureMANNERS AND CUSTOMS . 57as well as her truest dignity, in the arrange- ment of her household concerns, and in the society of her husband and her children. -Within the precincts of her house, she is ab- solute. The husband interferes not eitherwith the regulations of the family, or even the early education ofthe children; and, with a few exceptions in the management of the infant, at the most glaring of which I have hinted, the internal economyofa Dutchhouse is admirable.Having treated so diffusely on the character of the Dutch, I shall be very brief in my de- scription of the Belgians; and for this reason,that they have little that is marked and pro- minent; little to arrest the attention of thetraveller, or demand his particular study.The phlegm of the Dutch is mingled with the vivacity of the French, and yet the mixture is not pleasing. The different provinces exhibit some different shades of character. On theborders of Holland the natives are heavy,blunt, honest like their neighbours, and adopt their customs , amusements, and even their dress. But in the south they are scarcely to be distinguished from the French, either in appearance, habits, costume, orlanguage. The different governments, under which they have passed, have prevented their assuming any fixed and national character, and indeed have rendered them strangely indifferent to their form of government, and to every political event. The Belgian rarely talks of politics,or ifhe does, he betrays an ignorance and ca58 MANNERS AND CUSTOMSrelessness equally surprising and disgusting to the English traveller.Themost obvious peculiarity by which the Belgians are distinguished is their extravagant fondness for religious ceremonies and exhibi- tions.-Many times every day, the long and splendid procession parades the streets of the principal cities . Every native salutes the con- secratedhost with the profoundest and the sin- cerest reverence, and woe be to the traveller who dares to ridicule their devotion.Every pious Belgian esteems it his sacred duty to appear in the temple of his God once atleast in every day. Asalater season would materially interfere with the calls of business or pleasure, the churches are frequented at what wouldbe esteemed an unusually early hour in England. At five and six o'clock in the morning the principal churches are open- ed, and thronged with worshippers.This act ofhomage being paid, the Belgian eagerly engages in the avocations ofpleasure or commerce, and even the afternoon of the Sunday is devoted to the theatre, or the ball,or some other species of recreation.Avery favourite pastime of the middle and superior classes ofBelgians is shootingwith the cross-bow. A tall pole is erected without the walls of almost every Flemish town, re- sembling the may-pole in manyvillages in the west ofEngland. On the top of this is placed a wooden bird nearly as large as a pigeon.The respectable inhabitants assemble on days ofmore than usual festivity, ( in some towns,MANNERS AND CUSTOMS . 59on every Sunday ), and amuse themselveswith shooting at this mark. The person who first brings it to the ground receives a certain prize, and, if the contest be held only afew times in the year, the evening closes with an entertainment and ball, atwhich the trophies are publicly bestowed on the victors.Musicanddancing are favourite amusementsofthe Belgians, and especially of the middle and lower ranks. On every fine summer- evening, balls are given at most of the caba- rets and gardens in the neighbourhood of the principal towns. The price of admission va- ries from two-pence to one shilling.. In the depth ofwinter the wealthier inhabitants take great pleasure in parading the streets in sled- ges most fancifully and expensively ornament- ed and drawn by one horse. Along train of them exhibiting every kind of fantastic decoration is a singular and amusing spec- tacle.Inmostof the towns ofthe Netherlands, the traveller must take care that he is not incommoded or half-drowned by the filth, which, in all, except the principal streets , and sometimes in them, the Belgic housewives throw without ceremony from their windows. This nuisance is extremely inconvenient and disgusting, and too often proceeds from houses of the most respectable appearance. The stranger will likewise be occasionally surprised anddisgust- ed bycertain acts of indelicacy which females ofthe lower classes will commitwithout scruplein the most crowded streets .60 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS .In general information, especially among the lower ranks, it must be acknowledged thatthe Belgians are far inferior to the Hollanders.In every part of Holland there is a regular establishment of parochial schools, but in Bel- gium they are seldomfound. Themajority of the population ofthe Belgic provinces is ca- tholic; and the author, with the utmost reluctance, affirms, that the clergy of Belgium are not too well disposed to the diffusion of know- ledge among their flocks. The circulation of theBible, the poor man's first and most im- portant book, is systematically impeded.The character of the Belgic peasantry is,however,graduallyimproving. Private schools are established in almost every village, and the time will probably soon arrive, when every Belgian will be able to read his duty to God andman, and be instructed inthe humblerbut equally useful branches of knowledge.The superior classes in the large towns have generally adopted the French fashions and cus- toms, What change their new government,and their close connexion with the Hollandersmay effect, time will discover.CHAP. VI .NaturalProductions and Agriculture.THE northern provinces of the United Ne- therlands are said to be the lowest land in theNATURAL PRODUCTIONS , &c . 61known world. The average level of the coun- try is several feet below the surface oftheocean at highwater. <<This land,» says a popular writer, «is not, properly speaking, a land. It is so thoroughly penetrated with water, that not only do those parts that are manifestly marshy yield to the slightest pressure of the foot, but even the very roads which ought to be most firm tremble at every step.>> Thisaccount is certainly much exaggerated, but conveys a sufficiently accurate idea of the na- ture of the soil .Itmay therefore be suppossed that sufficient corn cannot be grown for the consumption of the inhabitans, but the pasturage, consisting ofbogs recovered from the sea, with adeep black rich soil, is most excellent. It fattens,with arapidityalmost incredible, thelean cattle which are brought from Germany and Den- mark. The native horses and cattle shew, by their immense size, the luxuriance of the soil fromwhichthey are fed. The quantity ofbutter andcheese producedis prodigious, and the qua- lity is superior to any other in Europe. The travellerwill probably smile at the curious ap- pearance of the cows, clothed with the great est care, and often in the most ridiculousmanner.In the country on the border of the Meuse,from Maestricht to Charleroy, are many valu- able strata of coal , which only require a little industry to be rendered exceedingly produc- tive. For many ages the Belgians seemed to be ignorant of the treasures which are con- F62 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS,cealed inthese provinces, but lately much at tention has been paid to the coal-mines.The principal fossil production of the pro- vince of Holland is turf. It constitutes the ordinary fuel of the Dutch.NearNamur, in Hainault, and in the greater part of Luxemburg, are invaluable mines of iron. Namurlikewise affords lead andcopper:and near Limburg, are inexhaustible mines of calamine and zinc.Several districts ofGuelderland and Drentheproduce this valuable metal in smaller quan- tities.The hills on the borders of the Meuse likewise afford stone for building, and an abund- ance of the finest marble, which is in great request, and is sent as far as Italy for purposes ofsculpture.Aspecies ofbituminous earth for fuel is dug near Namur, and the rocks yield a consider- able quantity of fossil nitre.To the east of Bois- le-duc and Eyndhoven is a morass of 30 miles which almost defiescultivation. Overyssel is nearly barren, and the marshy heath of Bourtang occupies a con- siderable proportion of Groningen; yet the industry of the Dutch has caused even the swampy morass and the barren sand to contri- bute to the subsistence of man.It is to Belgium that the traveller must look for the perfection of agriculture. Flanders has long been considered as the most produc- tive and the best cultivated country in Europe.AND AGRICULTURE. 63Pliny describes the excellence of the fruitsof Belgium, and Guicciardini expatiates on the abundance and superiority of its veget- able productions. England is indebted to Bel- gium for some of her most pleasing flowers.The tulip, the july-flower, and the carnation are ofBelgic origin; andfrom thesame coun- try were imported the cabbage, the lettuce,and the goose-berry.With regard toagricultural machinery, and live-stock, the superiority is certainly on the side of Great Britain, but the immense quan- tity of corn raised in the Netherlands, and furnished to England before the present corn- bill at so low a rate, proves some superiority either in industry or skill. The climate and the soil are not very different. The following circumstances will naturally account for the difference in price: greater ex pense of cultivation in England; higher rents and taxes; greater consumption of wheat among the English, and a smaller propor- tionate consumption of other grains: paper circulation, and difference of system . Merely observing with regard to the first,that wages are extremely low,-that a com- mon labourer can earn only five shillings per week and his victuals, that the wages of amason seldom exceed twelve shillings, that the most industrious and skilful mechanic willfind it difficult to gain 18 or 20 shillings per week, andthat there are no poor-rates in Flan- ders to oppress and beggar the farmer, and encouragethe idle anddissolute, I shall confine64 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS,myself to the last, because it will fall under the traveller's daily observation.The tourist will be surprised to see the uni- formly fine crops which the land produces.In England he will meet with many fields that rival or excel the most productive farms of the Netherlands , but here a field with an inferiorcrop is rarely or never seen. The mildew,that fatal disease in Britain, which renders the straw blackish, and the grain lean andmeagre,is almost unknown in the Netherlands. Thispartly arises from the extreme care which the Flemish farmer takes in selecting the best corn for seed. Some farmers carefully pick out the best ears; while others strike an entire sheaf against a piece ofwood, and take only the grains which first drop out. The seed is changed frequently, sometimes as often as every second year. The seed is likewise pre- pared in a peculiar manner, which is said to affordan effectual security against the mildew.This method is as follows: -Dissolve four ounces of copperas or blue vi- triol (sulphate of copper) in four gallons of water for every three bushels ofgrain that is to be prepared. Put the wheat into another vessel, and pour the liquid on it till it rises five or six inches above the corn. Stir it thoroughly, and carefully remove all the light grains that swim on the surface. After it has remained half an hour in the solution, throwthe wheat into a basket, which will allow the liquid to escape. Immediatelywash the grain in pure water, dry it, and it is ready to sow .AND AGRICULTURE. 65Itmay be preserved several months before it is sown, but it is better to prepare it when it is wanted. This method has been practised for ages in the Pays de Waes ( the country be- tween Antwerp and Ghent) , and there the crops are never infected with the mildew, and seldom with the smut.Another cause ofthe superiority ofthe Fle- mishcrops is manuring the clover withDutch ashes, i. e. ashes from the peat dug in the marshes of Holland. The agriculturist well knows how deficient the crops of clover have lately become in England, and how uncertainis the crop of wheat which follows. In Flanders about sixteen bushels of Dutch ashes aresown upon each acre of clover, and the conse- quence is, that two great crops are always procured, and pasturage afterwards, while the crop ofwheat that succeeds never fails . These ashes maybe imported into Englandatthe rate ofone shilling per bushel, ifnone ofourEnglish peat should produce ashes equally valuable.Another difference in the system ofhusban- dry in a considerable part of the Netherlands ,and particularly in theplains ofFleurus, is the abolition of fallows. A constantsuccession ofcrops is raised. The principal use of a fallow is to clear the ground of root-weeds, which the Flemings effect by elevating theland into small ridges, andusing aparticular instrument called the binot. It is a maxim with the Flemishfarmers that if theland be fully manuredevery ninth year fallows are perfectly unnecessary.The productiveness of the crops is a sufficientF.66 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS,proof that land does not suffer, while the crop of every sixth yearis gained. The usual pro- duce ofwheat is twelve or thirteen for one,and never less than six or seven.Another peculiarity in the husbandry of the Netherlands, is the peculiar neatness that pre- vails. The whole country affords but few in- tances ofthe slovenly management which is so frequently seen in England, It is almost im- possible to believe what attention is paid to weeding, and how great expense the farmer incurs to keep his land clean.The Flemish farmers are likewise distinguished for their attention to manure. It is another maxim with them, that the fertility ofthe soildepends onthe richeswhicharegiven it, and their allowance ofmanure is exceeding- ly liberal, but the dung is used too fresh and green, and the compostheap is scarcely known inBelgium.The culture of rape-seed, and the winter- barley, the flax husbandry and the double crops, are likewise peculiar features in their agriculture.The usual course of crops in the Pays de Waes is as follows:-1. After the land is trenched and well manured, potatoes are planted the first year.2. Wheat, with manure, sown in October or November, and carrots in February for se- cond crop the same year.3. Flax, manured, and likewise sown with clover-seed for the next crop.4. Clover.AND AGRICULTURE . 675. Rye or wheat, with carrots for the secondcrop.6. Oats.7. Buck-wheat; after which the ground is retrenched.The usual times for sowing and reaping arethese:-Wheat is sown in October or November, and reaped at the end of July, or beginning of August.Rye is sown in October, November or De- cember, and reaped in July.Winter-barley is sown in October, and reaped in July.Oatsaresownin Marchor April, and reaped at the end of August.The crops ofclover are remarkably fine, and sometimes grow to a height that would be scarcely credited, but the turnips do not usual- ly attain anygreat size.The sheep are small, and the wool coarse.The draught-horses are good, although per- haps the connoisseur would complainoftheir hollow backs. Thecattle are small, and seldom preposterously fat, but they are free from disease, and please the traveller by their deli- cate head and neck.The wheel-plow is notknown in Belgium,and so little are the implements of husbandry improved, that even theharrows have wooden teeth. It may however be said, that the light soil of the Netherlands scarcely requires the strong harrow of the British farmer.68 COMMERCE.CHAP. VII .Commerce.On this subject, it is impossible to say much.It would be useless to speak of what has been,but of which scarcely a vestige now remains;and it would be folly to pretend to foretell,what, in the new order of things, a few years may produce. The Netherlands were once the emporium of the commerce of the world. The absurd measures ofPhilip drove the greaterpart ofthe traffic of the south, to the northern and independent provinces, and for many ayear their industry and their economyrender- ed them wealthy and powerful; but their impolitic wars with England diminished their trade, and crippled their marine, and the pre- posterous and tyrannical decrees ofBuonaparte almost completed their ruin.Ofsome branches of commerce, it was, how- ever, impossible to deprive them. The her- ring-fishery is almost peculiar to Holland; at least other nations have never been able todiscover or to rival their method of curing them. This simple branch of commerce, for- merly afforded subsistence to 450,000 persons.At present it scarcely occupies a tenth part of the number.The herrings appear on the coasts of Scot- land and England about midsummer, and areCOMMERCE. 69taken in great abundance until the end of November. They then migrate to the Irish seas , and return to the southern ocean. TheDutch fishermen are prohibited from casting their nets before the 24th of June. Their busses ( the name of the ship employed in this fishery ) are of50 or 60 tons burden, and carry about 14 men. The herrings are salted the first time on board the ship, and again when they arrive in Holland. The principal ports occupied in this fishery are Dort, Rotterdam,Schiedam, Maaslandsluys, Vlaardingen, the Brill, Amsterdam, Hoorn, Enkhuysen, Middle- bourg, and Zieriksee. The town ofEnkhuy- sen is celebrated for drying the fish in a su- perior manner.The productiveness of this fishery has in- spired the Dutch withan almost superstitious idea of the excellence of the herring. It is regarded as a sovereign and universal pana- cea. Afresh herring, on the appearance of that fish, will cure every disease to which the human frame is subject. They are, conse- quently, for some days most eagerly sought after, and fetch an enormous price.The Greenland fishery was another source ofwealth to the Dutch. The ports of Rotter- dam and Amsterdam alone used to send atleast 250 vessels of two or 300 tons, each of them manned by 40 or 50 sailors. This trade is nearly annihilated .The advantageous situation of the Nether- lands at the mouths of so many noble rivers,has preserved a considerable internal com-70 COMMERCE .merce, and a profitable intercourse withGer- many. Immense rafts oftimber float down the Rhine, and in return, the greater part of Ger- many is supplied with sugar, spice, tea, coffee,arms, earthenware,slates,woollen cloths, and linen. The balance of this trade is always in favour of the Dutch, and is secure from the destructive inroads of maritime war.The manufactures of the different towns willbe described in the account of each town inour Itinerary, and the best markets for every kind of merchandise will be pointed out. The most esteemed articles are the woollen clothsof Leyden and Utrecht, the silk of Utrecht,Haarlem and Amsterdam, the black silk of Antwerp, the velvets of Amsterdam,the camlets and baize of Leyden, the fustian of Amersfoort, the linen ofGroningen, Fries- land, and Overyssel , the bleacheries of Ghent,Haarlem, Utrecht, and Enkhuysen, the prin- ted cottons of Amsterdam, the ribands and galloon ofHaarlem, theblack dye of Antwerp,the fine lace of Antwerp and Brussels, the stronger lace of Mechlin and Bruges, the fire- arms of Liege, the cutlery of Namur, the toys ofSpa, the iron ofNamur, the beer ofLouvain,the horses of Groningen and East Friesland,the refined sugar of Amsterdam, Rotterdam,and Utrecht, the tiles and bricks of Utrecht,and Leyden, and the tobacco of Amsterdam,Amersfoort, and Wageningen.The merchants of the Netherlands begin again to export to Russia, bullion, silks, cotton,spice, pewter, cutlery, diamonds, wine, andCOMMERCE.71fruit; and receive tallow, hemp, pitch,whale-oil , masts, timber, hides, furs, and canvass.To the ports of the Baltic they send the foregoing articles, and tobacco, paper, beer,and cheese; and import, beside the samearticles as from Russia, wheat, rye, and flax- seed.To Sweden and Norway they export spice,almonds, dried figs, prunes, tobacco, salt,woollen-stuffs , silks, bullion, wine andbrandy;and import timber, iron, copper, cannon, bul- lets, fire-arms, pitch, and tar.They furnish Germany, through Hamburgh andBremen, with spice, coffee, and sugar, and receive linen, wrought iron, wool, and quills .By the Rhine, they send every kind ofmer- chandise, and receive timber, books, the Rhine and Moselle wines, iron, and cement.They furnish England with flax, geneva,hides, diamonds, eels, beer, butter, and cheese;and import books, engravings, cutlery, and coal.TheFlemings are beginning to rival theEng- lish in their cotton-manufactories, and the cloths of Liege are equal, if not superior, to any that Britain can produce.WithFrance the trade of Belgiumhas much decreased. No manufacture ofthe Low Countries is nowpermitted to be publicly imported into France. Whether the measure be dictated by true policy, or mean revenge, a triple line of custom-house officers, ( douaniers )renders it almost impossible to smuggle the72 COMMERCE.most trifling article. In his tour from Brussels to Paris, the portmanteau of the traveller will be repeatedly and strictly examined. The merchants of Belgium severely feel this, and the manufactories of several of the towns arecrippled, and nearly destroyed. The present government of the Nether- lands , seems disposed to act on the principle of excluding every thing that can rival their ownmanufactures. Accordinglymanyforeign articles , raw and unmanufactured, are admit- tedon payementofthe most trifling duty,while adutyamounting to avery considerable part of the actual value is imposed on every produc- tion natural to Belgium, and every article that can be manufactured there. Belgium pro- duces much barley , and brews most excellent beer; therefore a duty amountingto two shil- lings per gallon is laid on all foreign malt liquor imported; but the country produces little wine, therefore duty on that article does not amount to a twentieth part of the duty on beer, Coals are abundantly found in the province of Liege, and near the frontiers of France; therefore the coals of Great Britain , although far superior in quality to those ofBelgium, are perfectly excluded by an enor- mous impost. Many cotton and woollen ma- nufactories are established in various parts of the Netherlands, and employ a considerable portion of the population. Raw wool and cotton are therefore imported almost duty- free, but the importation of cotton-thread,printed cottons, and all woollen clothCOMMERCE . 73is almost prohibited by an enormous duty.The staple commerce of the northern pro- vinces is fish , consequently the importation of fish, salted or fresh , is strictly prohibited. In a late report of the Dutch Minister ofCustoms (January 29, 1818) the principle of exclusion is formally recognised and more strictly enforced. It is made to extend even to the transit trade; and the duties on refi- ned-sugars, cottons, threads, calicoes , wool- lens, lace , tin plates; and some other ar- ticles , have been considerably increased.Into the policy of this system it is not ouse intention to inquire. It unfortunately is thesystem whichEngland has long adopted,which she taught to the nations of the con- tinent, and which they are now practising to her extreme loss and impoverishment.England refuses to receive those articles from.foreign states, which wouldapparently inter- fere with her own Manufactures. That extraordinary personwho lately governed the des- tinies of Europe, extended this principle, and established it throughout the continent, he even shut the ports against all British goods .With the downfall of his empire the vigour of this principle subsided, but the system of exclusion which England first practised, and which she forced on other nations , is stillfollowed, and no wheremore rigorously thau in the Netherlands .74 DYKES , CANALS,CHAP. VIII.Dykes; Canals , and Rivers .It has been observed, that in few parts of the world does the ocean long retain preci- sely its original limits. It either encroaches with more orless rapidity on the land , or it yields its own bed to the operations of hu- man industry. On the whole coast of the Netherlands it has for many ages beenmaking the most alarming encroachments.On consulting the ancient maps, it will be found that the river Yssel ran into an inlandlakecalled Flevo, andfrom thatlake a riverpur- sued its course for a distance of 50 miles before it reached the sea. But at present, this very lake forms part of the sea. All the interveningcountry hasbeen swallowed up; abroad expanse of water, more than 70 miles in length and 40 in breadth , covers it; and the islands of the Texel, Vlieland, Shelling ,and Ameland are the only remains of the old continent. History is silent as to the period of this dreadful desolation, but it is subse- quent to the time of the Romans.The Scheldt originally formed a meer delta at its mouth, divided by four or five mo- derate streams; but these are now widenedinto very considerable arms and creeks ofthe sea , and the continent is separated into the distant islands of Beveland, Walcheren, and Schouwen. This occurred in the 10th cen4AND RIVERS. 75tury; and as lately as the 15th century a vast lake wassuddenly formed to the s . E of Dort,overwhelming 72 large villages, with 100,000 inhabitants, who perished in the deluge.This constant encroachment of the sea, and these sudden and horrible devastationsthreatened, perhaps at no very distant period,the inundation and destruction of the wholecountry. To avert this calamity the inha- bitants commenced, and brought to perfec- tion an undertaking which has filled Europe and the world with astonishment. They began to raise banks or mounds against the sea, and although the work of many a year was often swept away in an hour, they per- severed with all the characteristic steadinessand obstinacy which have been justly attri- buted to them. Their banks slowly grew into enormous mounds. They became con- solidated by time. Theseacovered them with sand and thus furnished them with a defenceagainst its own fury; and the Dutch ean now truly say to the raging ocean in its wildest commotion, «Hitherto shalt thoucome, and no further.»These dykes are of various height and thickness according to their situation, and the urgency of the case. They are formed sloping on each side, the breadth of the base being very considerable, and many of them sufficiently wide on the top for two carriages to go abreast. Although the sea has still . continued to rise upon their coast, and some oftheir land is 40 feet below the high water76 DYKES , CANALS,mark, they consider themselves in perfect security. The traveller experiences a sensa- tion of mingled pleasure, astonishment, and apprehension, when he walks at the foot of some ofthe dykes, and hears the surges dash far above his head.In the same manner they have built nu- merous dykes on the banks of their rivers,and seem to have brought into complete sub- jection the vast body of water which runs through or surrounds their country. These dykes are properly considered to be national works, andare maintained at incredible labour and expense.The following lines of the interesting poet Goldsmith give so lively a picture of these extraordinary monuments of human indus- try , that I cannot resist the temptation to quote them:Methinks her patient sons before me stand,Where the broad ocean leans against the land,And, sedulous to stop the coming tide,Lift the tall rampire's artificial pride.Onward, methinks, and diligently slow The firm connected bulwark seems to go;Spreads its long arms against the watery roar,Scoops out an empire and usurps the shore:While the pent ocean, rising o'er the pile,Sees an amphibious world beneath him smile;The slow canal, the yellow-blossom'd vale,The willow-tufted bank, thegliding sail;The crowded mart, the cultivated plain,Anew creation rescued from his reign.Thus, while around the wave-subjected soil Impels the native to repeated toil,Industrions habits in each bosom reign,And industry begets a love of gain.AND RIVERS . 77There is usually a second dyke within, and near to the first; so that should the water burst or overflow the outer embankment, thesecond may prevent it from inundating the neighbouring country while the hollowbetween the dykes serves as a canal or aque- duct to carry off any occasional flood.,The side of the mound towards the sea isornamented and strengthened by a species of reed (Arundo arenosa), which the Holland- ers carefully plant inthe spring and autumn.This catching the sand which the tide drives against the dyke , it rapidly accumulates,and soon affords a thick covering for the original mound, and defies the ravages of the most violent storm .Many of the towns of Holland derive their name from these dykes. Rotterdam is so called from the dyke or dam on the banks of the river Rotter, which flows through that city; and Amsterdam is so denominated from the dyke or dam on the Amstel.At convenient distances are vast sluices ,by means of which the whole country may be inundated to a considerable depth at the shortest notice. In desperate cases this would prove asufficient security against the attack of an enemy; but only in desperate cases could it be resorted to, for while the enemywould be checked or destroyed , the country likewise would be laid waste.Having raised these immense bulwarks against the ravages of the ocean, the inha- bitants next diligently employed themselvesG.78 DIKES, CANALS,in draining the morasses with which the Ne- therlands abounded. They even attacked, and succeeded in recovering many immense tracts of land which the sea had entirely covered.The canals that formed a high road from one town to another, and with which they intersected every part of the country, contri- buted to effect this object, and to secure itspermanence.To enumerate the canals of the Netherlands, would occupy half our volume. In the whole of the ancient United Provinces,and in the geater part of Belgium, they form a communication, even between the most inconsiderable towns. The tourist crosses themat almost every mile. Thenativesoftener travel by them, than by the high road; and if the stranger can accommodate himself to theslow progress which he makes, he will find this mode of travelling both cheap and plea- sant. I shall enlarge on this topic, in a sub- sequent part of my work.The proximity of the northern provinces to the sea, and the numerous rivers, lakes ,and canals that intersect the country, render the atmosphere dampand foggy, This seems notto affect the health of the natives. Theircountenances, except in a few districts , exhi- bit no traces of sickness or disease; and in- stances of longevity, especially in the pro- vinces of Utrecht and Guelderland, are not uncommon. The traveller, however, if hebe not unusually prudent and cautious, will frequently suffer, and unnecessary delay inAND RIVERS . 79some of the marshy districts is too often fatal.The three principal rivers ofthe Nether- lands are the Rhine, the Meuse, and theScheldt.The Rhine has its source in Switzerland,in thecountry oftheGrisons, from a glacier upon the summit of mount Badur, at the head of a valley called the Rhinewald. This valley is little visited even by the natives,and presents frightful deserts of ice and snow throughwhich thestream descends, sometimes visible, and sometimes working its hidden track beneath the frozen mass . Hence itpervades or borders Switzerland for the space of 200 miles to the lake of Constance, where it bends west to Bazel, and commences its long northern course. But it does not begin to assume the romantic grandeur of which tourists have given such seducing accounts,until it arrives at Mentz, within 60 milesfrom the frontiers of the Netherlands . Fromthat town, as far as Coblentz, Bonn, and Co-- logne, its shores abound with beautiful and striking objects, andevery winding ofthe river presents some new prospect, rich, variegated,and grand.It enters the Netherlands a little beyond Cleves, where it divides, and that branch which contains the greater proportion of water and commerce, assumes the name of the Waal. Il now loses nearly all its peculiar and interesting scenery. Before it arrives at Arnheim it again divides; and a part, called -So DYKES, CANALS,the Yssel, takes a northern direction, by Zutphen, Deventer, and Zwoll, and falls into the Zuyder-Zee. The Rhine thence proceeds east to Wyk, where it once more forms two streams. The larger taking the name of the Lech, continues its progress to the E., joins the Waal and the Meuse, and laves the walls ofRot- terdam; while the Rhine, dwindled into acomparatively insignificant stream , proceeds by Utrecht and Leyden to the sea.The Rhine is not interesting to the Bel- gian traveller for any very beautiful and commanding scenery, but it is important as the source of that internal commerce whichhas survived the desolations of war, and con- tributed to the ease and comfort that are soobservable amongthe greater part ofthe Dutch people. This has already been mentioned in the chapter on the commerce of the Ne- therlands. A description of the immense rafts of timber which are floated down this river will be found in our account of Dortin the Itinerary, as they are principally con- signed to this port.The Meuse rises in France between Voidand Toul, and passing by Verdun, Sedan,and Mezieres, enters the Netherlands near Fumay. It then waters Charlemont, Namur,Huy, Liege, Maestricht, and Ruremonde; joins the Waal near Worcum, and proceeds to the sea, by Gorcum, Dordrecht, Rotterdam,Maasluis, and the Brill.In some parts ofits course this river exhibits ,ena smaller scale, all the wildness, the vaAND RIVERS . 81riety, and the delicacy of the scenery of the Rhine. The passage from Namur to Maes- tricht, will well repay the traveller. It is ,indeed, the favourite resort of the Belgian painters, and of all those who wish to study nature in her most majestic and interesting forms . The whole course of the river fromSedan to Groningen is extremely beautiful,but this is the choicest part. The river is usually close shut in by immense rocks on each side, sometimes beautifully covered with wood to their very summits, at others, naked and abrupt, and of every varied colour. Some ofthe clefts are whimsically fringed with box and ivy; other larger openings present a deep and romantic valley, either suddenly closed by some gigantic rock, or terminating in apleasing view of the surrounding country.Near Liege are numerous country-houses delightfully situated, with their gardens ex- tending to the brink of the river, and which,artfully heightening, and giving variety to the romantic character of the scenery, add much to the pleasure of the voyage. One of these chateaux is built on the summit of animmense isolated rock, and seems suspended in the air by a kind of enchantment. The hopgardens which immediately surround Liege, appear like an immense camp, occu- pying all the inequalities of the bank; but the effect is not pleasing.The Meuse gradually loses much of its beauty before it arrives at Groningen, and afterwards degenerates into a mere Dutch82 DYKES, CANALS, AND RIVERS.river, with its endless line of uncouth and formal dykes .Bymeans of the Meuse and the canals con- nected with it, the internal commerce of theNetherlands is much benefited, and aprofit- able communication was formerly established with the north of France.The Scheldt rises behind the gardens of the ancient abbey of Mont-Saint-Martin, near Catalet, about 10 miles north of St. Quentin.This majestic river, whose navigation has often embroiled the greater part of Europe,flows from an arch 12 feet deep, dug in the side of a hill.The Scheldtflows by Cambray, Bouchain ,Valenciennes, and Condé, after which it enters the Netherlands, and proceeding by Tournay,Oudenarde, Ghent, Dendermond, and An- twerp, divides into two principal branches,called the eastern and western Scheldt, which form the islands of Zealand.The long disputed question ofthe naviga- tion of the Scheldt is laid at rest by the late <<Act of the Congress ofVienna.» The 109th Article declares, «that the navigation of every river from its source to its mouth shall be perfectly free, subject only to certain duties which have hitherto been paid. and these de- pendent on the tonnage, and not on the nature ofthe cargo.COINS, 83CHAP. IX.Coins.The following is a table of the Coins, real and imaginary. Both theFlemings andDutch have several imaginary pieces of money, like the English Pound Sterling. The fractions are suppressed, as rendering the table unne- cessarily perplexed for common use.value in English Coin is expressed as nearly as possible.BELGIUM.TheENGLISH.L. s. d.ooAPening, imaginary, is equal to ..... 4 Penings .... an Unche. or Doight .. Doights..... aGroot, imaginary.. o22 Groots...... a PetardSilver... 02 Petards ..... ahalf piece of 5 Sous . o3 Petards ... aPlaquette ..... 4 Petards . ... aPiece of 5 Sous ofBrabant.. }00000-0 1020 30 ㅇ 40 66 Petards .... an Escelin, or Schilling . o2Escelins ..... a double Escelin . 0 1 0APiece of5 Plaquettes . ..... 0-1 340 Groots .......aFlorin, imaginary .. o 1 6Aquarter of a Crown ...... 0 1 2AHalf-Crown. 0 2 4A Crown,. 0 48AnEighth of a Ducatoon.AQuarter of a Ducatoon ........... ...0 070 1Half a Ducatoon............. 0 2ADucatoon ...... 0 531475784 COINS .Gold.A Ducat. ...A Sovereign.......ENGLISH.L. s. d.0 93.. ο 14 1A Double Sovereign................HOLLAND .APening, imaginary ... 4 Penings ....... aDoight ....1 8 200... 0 02 Doights ...... aGroot, imaginary. o2 Groots ..aStiver.. 6 Stivers ........ a Schilling . .. ..000 0 100620 Stivers ...... a Guilder, or Florin . o2 Guilders..... a Rix Dollar .60 Stivers ...... a Dry Guilder ...... 3 Guilders, 3Stivers. aSilverDucatoon oo1297940 44545810 6.. 0 940 12 56 Guilders .... a Pound, imaginary .. 0A Ducat...A Half-Ryder, or 7 Florins ........ A Rider, or 14 Florins ....... A Ducatoon .A Double Ryder .1 4101 16 0.. 210 3The Doight is the only Copper money.The Coins of France are equally current with those of Holland and Belgium; the tra- veller will therefore be thankful for a list ofFrench coins with their English value.Copper.AA Centime. ... 00 음A Liard is equal to ..... 0 0The Piece of two Liards .. 0 0TheSou . 0 0닝The piece of 6 Liards ( Bell-metal ) ..... oThedouble Sou, or Ten Centime Piece. o •01COINS . 85Silver (*).ENGLISH.L. s. d.The Five Sou Piece......... 0 0The Six Sou Piece Ο 0 3272The Demi- Franc. 0 0 5The Twelve Sou Piece..... .. 0 0 6The Fifteen Sou Piece.. 0 075 The Franc, or Livre.. 0 0 10The 24 Sou..... 0 1 0The30 Sou .... 0 1 3The piece of 2 Francs 0 1 8..3 Francs ....... .. 0 2 6.... 5 Francs ........04 2............ 6 Francs ......... 0 5 0Gold.The Napoleon....... The New LouisThe Old Louis .The Double Napoleon ... 0 16 80 16 8.. 1 0 0113 41 13 42 0 0..............The New Double Louis ........The Old Double Louis ................(*) By a law enacted in the course of the late revolu- tion, several coins of the old regime, are diminished in value according to the following rates, viz old Double Louis 16 sou, Ditto Single Louis 7 sou, old Six Livre Piece 4 sou, Ditto 3 Livre Piece 9 sou, old Twenty- Four sou Piece 4 sou, Ditto Twelve sou Piece 2sou and old 6 sou Pieces I sou.86PART II .DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER-VARIOUSROUTES-DESCRIPTION OF THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS, etc.SECT. I. Directions to the Traveller.THEtraveller onthe continent will find it ofmuch advantage previously to digest a plan of his route. He should consult some authentic account of Belgium, and determine on the places which he means to visit, and the objects to which he will give his principal attention. This will not only relieve him from much unpleasant uncertainty and inde- cision inthe course of his journey, but will likewise save him considerable time and expense; for few things are often so eroneous as the directions and advice which he willreceive from landlords, waiters, and even tolerably informed natives.Having determined on his route, he next provides a sufficient fund for his expenses. It will not be adviseable that he should takewith him much more cash than will carryhim to the continent, or the first principal town that he means to visit; but he should furnish himself with letters of credit on somebanker or merchant at Amsterdam, Antwerp,DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER. 87Rotterdam, or Brussels. These will probably afford him apleasant introduction to respectable and useful individuals, and may easily be procured at Hammersley's, Coutts's, or most other bankers .As this affair is attended with some trouble,and no advantage to the London banker, astranger can scarcely expect, and will not receive this accommodation, unless he is well recoinmended by some friend who has a cash account at the house. With this recommendation, the matter will be readily accomplish- ed. The traveller will deposit with theLondon banker the sum which he designs to expend, andwill receive orders on some bankers in Brussels, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, or the other principal towns, amounting to the same suim and payable at sight.As a measure of precaution, he will be required to give his signature in his usual mode ofwriting. This is transmitted to the foreign bankers. When he presents the order to them, he will again be requested to write his name. The two signatures will be compared, and the money immediately paid to him, without any deduction for brokerage. The traveller, especially if he has business ofimportance to transact, should next arrange the places at which letters may be directed to him, and as nearly as possible the time when he shall arrive at these places. The common address of «Poste-restante,» i . e. «.to be left at the Post-Office until calledfor,» is.very insecure. If it be not convenient to88 DIRECTIONS TO THE TRAVELLER.arrange the precise time for the despatch or arrival of letters, they should be directed to the care of some merchant or banker.The baggage of the traveller should be as light and portable as possible, and should contain no contraband goods, for the smallest portion of them may bring on him an infini- tude of trouble. It will be useless to carrymuch more than a bare change of apparel,since at almost every town through which he passes , he will be able to supply himself with whatever is necessary, at very little additional expense. The traveller's portmanteau should be short and deep, as it will then be more likely to fit the different carriages, than one which is long and shallow. Whenhis luggage is examined at the cus- tom-houses, it will be prudent for him to treat the officers with civility, and offer them atrifling perquisite. To assume airs ofimport- ance and anger, is absurd and impolitic. The officers are discharging a necessary duty, and have it in their power to be very troublesome if offended . The traveller should never sufferinore than one trunk to be examined at once.It will be impossible for his eyes to be every where, and valuable articles have sometimes been purloined, and even contraband goods clandestinely introduced.Passports may be obtained by addressing aletter to his Excellency Baron Fagel, at his office, No. 14, Buckingham- street, Strand,sigued by a respectable house-keeper to whomVOYAGE TO THE NETHERLANDS . 89he is known. The passport will be granted on the following day free of expense.Apassport is as necessary in a tour through the Netherlands, as through France; and when indorsed in France will be admitted in Belgium. It will be demanded at some of the fortified towns, and the ready production of it may save the traveller much trouble andsome expense.SECT. II . Voyage to the Netherlands .If the traveller proposes to visit the Nor- thern provinces, hemay embark at Harwich.. Acoach goes from the Spread Eagle, in Grace- Church-street, every evening at 7, and on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings at 9. Packets sail from Harwich to Helvoet- sluys at least twice in the week, and the charge including provisions is 21. 148. 6d. Thepassage rarely exceeds twenty or twenty-four hours. The freight of a carriage is 6 guineas and 2shillings per ton, for tonnage.Thewaggonfor Harwich goes from theBull and the King's arms inGrace-Church-street,and the Ipswich Arms in Cullum-street.Avessel sails for Harwich every week from Wheeler's and Harrison's wharfs.Packets sail from the Custom House quay to Rotterdam, on the 10th, 20th, and 30th ofeverymonth. The passage is 3 guineas for each person, including board, and 2 cwt. of luggage. The cabins are very comfortably TheH.مو VOYAGE TO THE NETHERLANDS.fitted up, and each packet has astate cabin,which may be hired by a family. By this conveyance the expense of land- travelling from London to Harwich, and from Helvoet- sluys to Rotterdam will be saved. Every ne- cessary information may be obtained, and apassage secured by application to the captains ofthe packets, off the Custom-house, or at the General Packet-office, No. 357, Strand.On approaching the coast ofHolland, the first object that is seen is the tower of Goree,a little island between Voorn and Schowen;next appears the low and barren coast of that island, and soon afterwards the town of Helvoetsluys.If the traveller intends to visit Brussels, and the southern provinces first, he will go to Ostend. Packet - boats sail every Sunday morning from Gravesend to Ostend. APac- ket likewise sails every Sunday and Thursday from Botolph wharf near London Bridge; the fare is 11. 11s. 6d. for every grown person,and 188. for children. The tourist mayensure a conveyance to Ghent for 11. 18s. , and to Brussels for 2 guineas. Passengers are booked for these packets either at the General Packet- office, 357, Strand, or at Botolph wharf. All baggage should be sent the day previous to sailing, that it maybe cleared at the Custom- house, If the traveller sails by either of these packets, it will be necessary for him to lay in a small stock of provisions, as the voyage may last from 16 or 20 hours to two or three days, according to the state of the wind,VOYAGE TO THE NETHERLANDS. grRegular packets sail to Ostend from Har- wich, Dover, Hastings, and Brighton, but Iwould certainly advise the traveller who starts from London, to go either by the Gravesend or Botolph wharfPackets.Some coach proprietors advertise to convey passengers the whole way from London to Brussels or Amsterdam, for a certain sum.By adopting this mode of conveyance, the traveller is relieved from all uncertainty and anxiety respecting his passage from the Eng- lish port to the Flemish coast; but he is subject to onegreat inconvenience in being compelled to wait at the port until the packet connected with the London coach proprietor arrives ,and is ready to sail again. Some persons have been detained nearly 36hours on thisaccount.Should the traveller have more baggage,than he wishes to take under his own charge,Mr. Bray of the packet-office, 357, Strand,will convey it to any part of the continent on reasonable terms.The best English inn at Ostend, is the Rose,kept by Mr. Nicholson. From Ostend, the tourist may proceed to Bruges and Ghent by the canal, which is the most economical andpleasant modeofconveyance; but from Ghent to Brussels he must take the diligence, or travel post. Every particular respecting this,and connected with the comfort of the traveller will be mentioned in Section VI.92 ARRIVAL ATSECT. III . Arrival at Helvoetsluys.WE will suppose the tourist safely landed at Helvoetsluys.HELVOETSLUYS is a strong sea-port in the island of Voorn, and is the principal port for the English packets from Harwich. It is aneat town built on the banks of the great sluice whence it derives its name, and the harbour is large enough to contain the whole navy ofHolland. It runs through the middle of the town, and is carried, by means of piers ,fifty yards into the sea. The dock-yard and arsenal are in the centre of the fortifications .Helvoetsluys contains a flourishing naval school, supported by government. The houses ofHelvoetsluys have a whimsical appearance,and afford a fair specimen of the usual style ofbuilding in the Dutch towns. The gable end is generally presented to thestreet. This runs up to a sharp point, like some of the old English farmhouses, and apainted bench is anecessary appendage to every door. The uncouthness of this scene is, however, much relieved by a profusion ofyellow, green, and white paint, with which every edifice is co- vered.Hobson's is the inn most frequented by En- glishmen; and the Packet-boat, kept by Ma- dame Normand, and principally resorted to by the French, is not inferior to it .The packet is soon surrounded by a crowd of spectators; and in the immense trowsersHELVOETSLUYS . 93of the sailors , and the close jackets, the short manyfolded petticoats, the mob-caps, and the umbrella sized hats of the women, the tra- veller will recognize the accuracy of the ac- count which I have given of the costume of the Dutch. Numerous porters now present themselves, eagerly contending which shall carry the luggage. It will be necessary to agreewith them beforehand what he is to pay,or hewill be subjected to the grossest impo- sitions . The most exorbitant demands willbe urged in language not remarkable for its civility; and, after the traveller has remon- strated and stormed until he is tired, he will be compelled to pay every doight.Thisremark should not be forgotten whatever part ofHolland the tourist mayvisit, and especially in the great cities. At Amsterdam particu- larly he cannot be too much on his guard.He must likewise be careful not to lose sight ofhis pormanteau, or possibly he may never see it again.In almost every town ofHolland orBelgium,hemaytrust himselfto the boys who surround the doors ofthe hotels , or accost him in the streets, and who, for a trifling gratuity, will safely conduct him to any part of the town,and to every object of curiosity. It should,however, be added, that they will fully as readily conduct him to the abodes of prosti- tution and vice which every populous town contains, and that they will frequently not onlyvolunteer, but eagerly press their services for this purpose.94 ARRIVAL AT HELVOETSLUYS.The traveller will find it more pleasant to look out for one of these boys, than to hire a guide at the inn, or to trust to any person who may be recommended by the master of the hotel. On the accounts given by the guides hired at the inns, no dependence can beplaced. They uniformlydelight to astound andgull the stranger by the marvellous stories which they relate; and they are skilful only in showing him as few places as possible in each excursion, and leading him through the most circuitous ways. If the travellerpurposes to remain sufficient- ly long in any place to examine all the objects of curiosity that it presents, he will find it of much advantage, ere he commences his round,to ascend the tower of the principal church,or the townhall. Throughout the whole of Holland, and the greater part of Belgium,the full extent ofthe town will appear before him; and he will obtain a tolerably adequate idea of the relative situations and bearings ofthe objects which hepurposes to visit. He will thus be enabled to correct many careless or wilful errors ofhis guide, and frequently the assistance of a guide will be renderedunnecessary .Previous to the arrival of the traveller atany of the great sea-ports, it will be prudent for him to determine at what inn he meansto lodge, andnot to leave himself at the dis- posal of either the postillion or the porter.This publication will furnish him with the names of the best inns, or he may prettyDUTCH INNS . 95safely trust to the recommendation of the captain of the packet .SECT. IV . Dutch Inns .I WILL suppose the tourist now arrived at his inn. The room into which he is ushered,whether on the ground-floor, or up stairs,will certainly have abed in it. It is either contained in a small press, or very neatly concealed in asliding partition in the wain- scot. It is usually sufficiently large for one person, but would ill accommodate two.The Dutch inn-keepers are said to be inte- rested and imposing. Inthe inferior inns, and on the roads little frequented, the traveller will sometimes find this too true, but in thebest hotels he will have no reason to complain ofhis accommodation or his charges. It be- hoves him, however, to be civil, for the Dutch landlords and waiters often display wonderful ingenuity in teasing the petulant or assuming traveller.Oncleanliness the tourist maygenerally de- pend. Abeautifully white table-cloth with asilver fork and spoon will be put before him ,and his sheets will rival the snow.The expense of living at the Dutch andFle- mish inns is very moderate. At almost every respectable inn is an ordinary, at which all strangers usually assemble, and where many of the inhabitants ofthe town make their ap- pearance. The charge will seldom exceed96 DUTCH INNS .twenty-pence or two shillings except at some of the fashionable hotels, and in this, fish ,soup, roast and boiled meat and desert are in- cluded. Abottle of ordinary Burgundy wine (which the traveller will find no contemptible beverage) will cost twenty- five pence more,and the host will be perfectly satisfied should his guest order but half a bottle. The ex- pense ofa comfortable andindeed a sumptuous supper, consisting likewise offish , poultry, and meat, will not exceedeighteen-pence. In some parts of Holland, the traveller may possibly be charged somewhat exorbitantly for this lat- ter meal, because the Hollanders rarely eat suppers, and the strangers will be expected to pay for what he requires out of the usualway;but in Belgium this meal will be comfortably provided at a moderate expense.Coffee is the favourite evening beverage of the Dutch, but it is generally water very slightly tinged, and drunk without sugar.With half an ounce they make no less than fifteen cups. The inn-keepers are perfectly sensible that foreigners drink their coffee much stronger, and ask whether the traveller pre- fers it made in the German way. He must then be careful to specify the exact number of cupswhich he wishes to be made withthe fa- vourite quantity of half an ounce, or he will have it brought to him much weaker than he hasbeen accustomed to drink it in his nativecountry.✓ THE BRILL. ( 97SECT. V. Route from Helvoetsluys to Rot- terdam.FROM Helvoetsluys the usual route to Rotter- dam is by the BRILL, a fortified sea-port, and capital of the island ofVoorn at the mouth of the Meuse. The harbour can contain 300vessels , and the number of inhabitants, mostof whom are fishermen or pilots, is 3,100. It was taken from the Spaniards by the Dutch in 1572, and the foundation of the Batavian re- publicwas then laid here. It gave birth to the celebrated Admiral Tromp, andthe Vice-Ad- miral de Witt. Near it is the village of Rok- ange, famous for its petrefactions. Acoach and a boat start every day for Rotterdam, and once a week for Amsterdam, the Hague, and Schiedam. The principal inn is the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw).The road from Helvoetsluys to the Brill lies through a country ressembling the fens of Lincolnshire, plantedwith loftytrees, and in- terspersedwith substantial farm-houses. The crops ofcorn and oats are here mostabundant,but they are subject to be flooded; and the intercourse between the different farm-housesis often rendered very circuitous, or entirely cut off, by the rise of the water. The roads are, as may be expected, miserably bad. The distance from Helvoetsluys to the Brill is six miles. The usual mode of conveyance is by what the Dutch would dignify by the name of coach, but which more resembles a slight98 MAASLANDSLUYS .English cart with a gaudy cover painted with different colours ,From the Brill to Rotterdam is twelve miles,and the journey may be performed either by land or water To travel by land it is neces- sary previously to cross the ferryto Maasland- sluys. Aboatconstantly plies which will carry the passenger and his carriage, and which con- veys the regular coach that runs from the Brillto Rotterdam.MAASLANDSLUYS is a beautiful village, as po- pulous as an English town, and enriched by the cod and herring fisheries.From Maaslandsluys to Rotterdam the road leads through meadows and corn-fields, and the country presents a perfect and unbroken level. The traveller mayhere begin to form some idea ofthe general character of the nor- thern provinces. They appear like an im- mense marsh or bog drained at certain inter- vals by canals and ditches, The canals, and even the rivers are discoloured with mud, and the former are dreadfully offensive in the summer. Yet even among these marshes, and notwithstanding the tedious and endless flat,the eye is relievd by innumerable trees, mea- dows, andgardens. The farm-houses, and the gardens and orchards immediately belonging to them, are usually surrounded by a green fence; but in the meadows a hedge is almost unknown. The fields aredividedbydeep ditches filled with water, over which small bridges are laid which open in the middle by a kind oftrap-door that is raised and lockedto apost.FLAARDING .-SCHIEDAM.99By far the most pleasant way from the Brill to Rotterdam, is to sail up the river. Schuyts or passage-boats sail every tide at low water,and reach Rotterdam inabout three hours.The fare is exceedingly moderate. The river crowded with ships presents at every winding the most interesting views.Onthe left the travellerpasses thelittle town ofFLAARDING. It is the metropolis of the her- ring- fishers , and inhabited solely by them.Notwithstanding the intolerable smell ofher- rings, it is not inferior inneatness and clean- liness to any town in Holland. The inhabit- ants are remarkable for adhering strictly to the ancientnationaldress of two centuries ago.Their appearance is exactly such as is delinea- ted inpictures of that date.Some storks are usually seen parading the streets ofFlaarding, and waitingfor the refuse ofthe fish . The Dutch are extremely partial to this bird, and would esteem it aheinous crime to destroy or injureone ofthem. They frequently place some wooden frames on the top of their houses, to entice the storks to build their nests there; andthe habitation that is crownedwith one or two of these nests is sup- possed to be protected from witchcraft, and various other perils .Further on, and more to the left, is SCHIE- DAM on a canal called the Schie. It is celebrated for its distilleries of Geneva. Beforethe Revolution 300 houses were employed in this trade. 200houses are now constantlyat work. Although the Geneva of Schiedam is100 ROTTERDAM.so much and so deservedly praised, the process by which it is procured is extremely simple.Itis nothingmore than three successive distil- lations. The principal cause of its supe- riority probably is, that it is distilled entirely fromwheat. The English distilleries chiefly use oats and barley. Schiedam contains 9,000 inhabitants.The inns are , the Doelen, the Dutch Garden (Hollandse Tuyn ), and the Stork ( Oyevaan).Boats set out every day for Delft and Rot- terdam, and every week for Amsterdam, Bois- le-duc, Breda, Dort, the Hague, Haarlem,Leyden, Middlebourg, and Utrecht.Nearer Rotterdam, and on the left, is Delfts- haven, greatly enriched by the herring fishery.It contains acommodious port, and 2,700 in- habitants .Two miles higher up the river is ROTTERDAM,at the influx ofthe Rotte with the Meuse. Inits size, the beauty ofits buildings, and its com- merce and riches, it is second only to Amster- dam. The streets are intersected with canalsbordered with trees, and sufficiently deep for the largest ships to unload at the very doors of the warehouses. The canals are deeper and cleaner than in any other town in Hol- land.In Rotterdam the peculiar style of Dutch building is more than usually prevalent The houses are composed of very small bricks.They are exceedingly lofty, and perfectlydes- titute ofGothic ornament, but sometimes pre- senta confused and motley and clumsy mixtureROTTERDAM. 101ofseveral of the Grecian orders. They project forward as they ascend, so that many of them are two or three yards out of the perpendicu- lar. The windows are enormously large, and most ofthe streets are so similiar, that a stranger has much difficulty in finding his way.Many of the houses have looking-glasses pro- jecting from both sides of the windows, that the inhabitants may see every thing which passes up and down the street. The noblest street is the Boom-quay, extending amileand ahalf along the river. This street is the resi- dence of the most opulent families, and the prospect from it over the river is highly de- lightful. The critic Bayle resided here.The Exchange is a plain handsome building in the form of an oblong square, with a co- vered walk on each side. The Stadt-houseis an oldbrick edifice with a peaked roof, and much fantastic ornament.The cathedral of St. Lawrence is the only church worthy of notice; but the walls are saddened by numerous ill-executed sable es- cutcheons, and the floor is covered with un- painted rushbottom or deal benches. Amag- nificent brass balustrade of exquisite work- manship separates the choir from the nave.The organ was intended to rival that at Haar- lem, and is universally acknowledged to be anoble instrument. The monuments of Admirals De Witt, Brakel, De Liefde, and Kor- tenaar, are not ill-executed. The view from the tower includes almost the whole of SouthHolland.I.102 ROTTERDAM.Rotterdam contains no good publiccollec- tion ofpaintings, butafew private individuals possess some valuable cabinets, principally,however, confined to the works of the Dutch and Flemish masters. The most valuable arethose of Messrs. Vanderput, Vanderpał,Lockhorst, and Severs. In the museum of the latter gentleman are found the original designs of those paintings of Rubens that en- rich the galleries ofthe Luxemburg. Astranger who has been introduced to any respectable inhabitant of Rotterdam, will easily procure admission to these collections .The great number of immense draw-bridges over the canals, contribute much to the pleas- ing appearance ofthe city, butwhen they are raised, the obstruction ofthe passage occasions crowds on each side. In the most frequented parts, the bridges are entire and permanent,except for the breadth of three feet in the centre, where there is a plank opening on hinges. Through this opening the masts of small vessels are easily conducted.The number ofinhabitants is about 53,000;and the peculiar commerce of Rotterdam is madder, geneva, and refined sugar. Amsterdammonopolizes the greaterpart of the commerce of those districts of Germany which are situated on the Rhine; and Rotter- dam of the countries bordering ontheMeuse:but the trade inmadder and geneva belongs almost exclusively to Rotterdam.The suburbs are very pleasant, and most ofthewealthy merchantshave country-housesROTTERDAM. 103near the city. The gardens are uniformly neat and luxuriant; but they appearas if they hadbeen laid out by amathematician. On most of the gates are mottos indicative of the character of the place, or the mind of the owner, as «Hope and Repose,» «Very Con- tent,» «Peaceful is myGarden.»The learned Erasmus was a native of Rotterdam. His statue in bronze stands on anarch crossing one of the canals, and thehouse in which he was born is still shewn.In the port ofRotterdam, the ice breaks up sooner than at Amsterdam, andthe tide will carry a ship into the open sea in two or three hours. The principal inns are the Boor's Head (Zwynshoofd), the Marshal de Turenne, the Great and Little Schippershuis, the Doelen,and the Peacock. ( Pauw) . The Marshal de Turenne is keptby an Englishman ofthe name ofCrabb, from whom his countrymen will ex- perience much civility and attention .Adiligence sets out every day forDort and Antwerp, and every two hours for Gouda. The fare to Antwerp is 9 florins 12 sous. Itisnecessary to take aplace at the coach-office before nine o'clock on the preceding evening.Apassage-boat goes every hour to Delft. Avessel sails once a week to almost every port in Holland. ,SECT. VI. Mode ofTravelling in Holland.BEFORE the traveller quits Rotterdam on his tour of business or ofpleasure, it will be ne104 MODE OF TRAVELLING.cessary to give him some information with re- gard to the mode ofconveyance. He may proceed by land in post-chaises; or he will find coaches established between all the prin- cipal towns. In some of the northern pro- vinces, however, the roads are execrable, and inmany places almost impassable in the spring and autumn, when the rain and the fogs have increased the moisture of a soil naturallyboggy and marshy.Voitures and Cabriolets.Neither the voiture ( post-chaise ), nor the cabriolet, ( a chaise on two wheels) , is remark- able for its beauty. The voiture has no shafts,but a piece of wood in the form of a bow or arch is placed between the wheels in front; on this the postilion presses his feet, and by that pressure gives the carriage the requisite direc- tion . The horses are attached to the chaiseby ropes, and are frequently driven three a- breast. Ondescending any hill, few of which indeed occur, the postilion places his foot on croup of one of the horses, presses his back against the vehicle, and thus produces the ef- fect of the breeching in the common English harness .When the Netherlands formed apart of the French empire, the rate of posting was fixed by the government; and the traveller, by con- sulting a book, entitled «Etat général des Postes,» might calculate with great exactness the expense of his journey in any part of the country. These regulations are no longer inMODE OF TRAVELLING . 105force, but the postmaster demands what he pleases, and this demand is now understood to include all tolls and barriers . The usualcharge is about a shilling per mile for a ca- briolet, which will comfortably accommodate two persons , and in which three may travel with no great inconvenience. The price of avoiture varies from eighteen pence to one shilling andninepencepermile. Thepostilion willexpectsome compliment. Thirty sous, or two francs, for each post will be quite suffi- cient.The traveller cannot be too careful that hişluggage is properly fastened to the carriage,for the carelessness of the ostlers and posti- lions often exceeds all bounds .In Belgium the post-chaises are rather better constructed, and they are better adapted to Belgium than to Holland, where the canals serve the purpose of high- roads.The cabriolet, which is the more usual andconvenient mode of travelling, is an uncouth but pleasant vehicle, running on two wheels.It is surrounded on the inside with numerouspockets, and on each side is acomfortable pillow. It is drawn by one or two horses. It opens in front, and has a window on each side.Whether the traveller proceeds in a voiture or cabriolet, he is subject to a regulation,which, if he has no feeling for the poor animals that draw him, he will deem a material incon- venience. At the distance of every six or se- ven miles a large building, like a barn , is erect106 MODE OF TRAVELLING .ed on the road-side, with folding-doors at each end. The driver will halt here in defiance ofthreats or entreaties , and feed his horses with huge slices of bread from anenormous loaf,which the cabriolet always contains. If the weather be bad, the postilion drives into this barn, which affords no uncomfortable shelter for himselfand his cattle.The Diligence.Adiligence, or coach, or, as it is usually called, a post-waggon, is established between the principal towns of the Netherlands. To the latter name it is best entitled for it is builtwith all the strength of a waggon, and exhi- bits much of its clumsiness. It cannot failofexciting many risible ideas in the mind ofthe traveller when he first sees it. It is notalways suspended on springs, and is madevery low and narrow; yet the passenger will gene- rally find sufficient room, and a tolerably comfortable seat.The diligence usually carries six or eight persons. Each place has its number, and the name ofevery passenger is registered. When he pays his fare, he obtains a ticket, onwhich is anumber indicating where he is to sit.Ifmore than the stated number ofpassengers apply for places for the whole of the journey,another vehicle is immediately procured, the fare, and the regulations of which are the same: so that the traveller need fear no disappointment in the prosecution of his tour,Persons, however, who wish to engage placesMODE OF TRAVELLING . 107for only part of the journey, are not thus ac- commodated, but mustwait for the next conveyance.The diligence starts precisely at the stroke ofthenearest clock. No entreaties will inducethe coach to stayone momentfor either pas- senger or freight. Thetraveller who has of- tencomplained of, and sometimes benefited by the irregularity of many English vehicles,will recollect the punctuality of the Dutch,andbe careful that hedoes not forfeit his fare,which is always paid beforehand, and never returned,One caution is perhaps necessary with res- pect to the clocks in almost the whole ofBel- gium, and in part of Holland; the hour is always struck twice, onceat the proper time,and half an hour before it. This sometimesoccasions inconvenience, and uncertainty even with the natives, and the stranger may be easilymisled by it. Most of the clocks like- wise strike the half-hour, the quarter, and the half-quarter.If the diligence be so extremely punctual to its time ofdeparture, it is no less exact in the period of its arrival. Should the time ap- pointed for the journey be exceeded only five minutes, a fine is levied on the proprietor of the coach, and given to some public charity,unless he can prove that an accident, or un- foreseen occurrence rendered it impossible for him to have arrived sooner.The passenger in the diligence was formerly indanger ofbeing suffocated by the smoke of108 MODE OF TRAVELLING .his companions, who, if they were Dutchmen,lighted their pipes as soon as they entered the vehicle. This nuisance is now much abated.No one is permitted to smoke, or even to take his dog in the diligence, without the full consent of his fellow- travellers. It is always in the power of a single person to forbid anypractice unpleasant to himself or his companions; and should any one offend after this remonstrance,he is fined six guilders, which are devoted to the benefit of the charities of the town to whichthe coach belongs.The traveller should look carefully after his trunks, or they will be fastened in such an awkward and negligent manner, that they will be frequently cut to pieces by the shaking, or dropped or stolen on the road. He is allowed twenty pounds of luggage, and must pay four stivers for every additional five pounds.The expence bears about the same propor- tion to that of posting which it does in Eng- land. The slowness of the diligence is very tiresome to those who have been accustomedto travel in England. Its greatest rate, in- cluding stoppages, is seldom more than 3 or 4miles an hour; and almost every hour or league the driver halts to refresh his horses and himself.In some of the great towns, and in the prin- cipal part of the southern provinces , the ve- hicles better deserve the name of coaches; but they are no where celebrated for elegance,convenience, or expedition.Themostpleasantpartofthediligence, whenMODE OF TRAVELLING.109 the weather is not too cold, is the seat in thefront of the outside, called the cabriolet. Aprojecting roof over it, and a leathern apron whichmaybe raised as high as the waist, per- fectlysecure the traveller from wet. The fareis but little more than half that of the inside.The cabriolet carries two passengers and the conducteur, or person who has charge of the passengers and luggage.The Trekschuit.1The cheapest, the most convenient, and,generally, the most pleasant mode of tra- velling, especially in the northern provinces,is by the trekschuit or passage-boat, on the canals. The whole length of the barge,which is usually thirty feet, is divided into two apart- ments or cabins, each about six feet wide andseven high. The larger room towards the prow of the boat, is for common passengers,and for the luggage, and will contain 30 or40 persons. The smaller cabin towards the stern,called the roef, is engaged at a rather higher rate, and holds but eight. The traveller will do well to secure the roef, for in the other cabin he will not always meet with a very select company, and he will be surrounded with an impenetrable cloud of smoke. The roef indeed does not afford a perfect security from thestench oftobacco, for the passengers in the next cabin smoke on one side, while thedoor of the roef opens close to the rudder,at which the master and his men are stationed,andwhose pipes are never out of their mouths.K110 MODE OF TRAVELLING.The whole of the roef may be secured at half- price, orby paying the fare offour passengers.Places in the roef should be taken some hoursbefore-hand, and if a passenger pays for one,or even two or three places, he will lose them if another comes and takes the whole cabin.At every change of horses the driver (het jagertie) expects a few doights, and a stiver will abundantly satisfy him.The usual fare for a single passenger is about 6stivers per mile; and the vessel is towed with such regularity, at the rate of four miles an hour, that the Dutch oftener compute the distance from place to place by hours, than by miles. Travelling by the trekschuit is there- fore attended with this convenience , that the person maycompute to a minute the time at which he shall arrive at every town.anThe roef has four windows, which slide up and down, (the other cabin has only leathern curtains or shutters), a table in the middle,a mirror, pipes, a spitting - box, and iron-pot containing burning turf to accom- modate the smoakers with a light. Except in the hottest part of the summer, when most ofthe canals become extremely offensive, the trekschuit is no ineligible conveyance. Many of the country-houses of the Dutch are built nearthe banks of a canal, the gardens reach to the edge of the water, and display all their charac- teristic neatness and formality, and the prin- cipal canals are always crowded with boats of various descriptions. If the country does notMODE OF TRAVELLING. IIInaturally afford any romantic or beautiful prospects, yet the ceaseless succession of ob- jects is pleasing, and causes the time to pass quickly along. The motion of the vessel is likewise so gentle, that a person may write,or even draw in it.Steam-boats are now establishing on many of the canals of Holland, the fare of which iseven cheaper than the trekschuit. The pre- judices of the people, however, violently op- pose them, and many years will probably elapse ere they will become the usual mode ofconveyance.Many of the trekschuits furnish the pas- senger with an ordinary at a very moderate price, and sufficiently varied, sumptuous and clean, to satisfy the most fastidious palate;but unless this is clearly understood to be the case, the traveller should carefully provide himselfwith some provisions ready-prepared,for the trekschuit does not halt for any meal,nor is there convenience for cooking provisions on board. At every place, however,where the boats are changed , or any interrup- tion occurs , women offer refreshments for sale,consisting principally of small loaves andslices ofcold baked eels .The traveller should likewise take as littleluggage as possible with him on board the trekschuit. Itshould be contained in one port- manteau or parcel, so as to be easily conveyed from one boat to another when the schuyts are changed, for no little pre-concerted bustle and confusion are often made at that time, in the112 MODE OF TRAVELLING.hope that some of the parcels may be over- looked and forgotten. All heavy baggage should be sent by one of the packet-boats, di- rected to the inn at which he intends to lodge.My reader will permit me once more to re- mind him, that he should, if possible, pre- viously determine on the inn at which he will take up his quarters. He will likewise re- member that in Holland, more than in any other country, the best inns are the cheapest;and that he must always make his bargain beforehand with the porters who carry his luggage, or he will be liable to great impo- sition.The Beurt-schippen .Another mode of travelling is by the beurt- schippen. These are large vessels with two masts which navigate the lakes, or go coast- ways from port to port. In the summer, and whenthe weather is tolerably calm, they are very pleasant and cheap. They present four kinds ofconveyance. Ist. The cajuit, or cabin,in which a person of moderate stature may stand upright. It has a table in the middle,beds in the recesses of the wainscot, and will accommodate eight persons. 2d. The roefis a hut, or cabin, built on the deck, and ac- commodates twelve persons with beds. 3d.Between the decks is another set ofpassengers,who likewise have beds provided for them;and in the hold, persons of an inferior de- scription are stowed with the cargo.The fare of a cabin-passenger from AmZEALAND . 113sterdam to Lemmer, is aducat; and the pas- sage usually occupies eight or ten hours.Wine, coffee, tea, and refreshments of almost every kind, may be procured on board these vessels at a reasonable charge.SECT. VII. Islands of Zealand.HAVING conducted the tourist to Rotterdam,and furnished him with full directions as to the mode of travelling, I will give a brief description of the Islands of Zealand, which cannot be conveniently included in any of the routes.ZEALAND derives its name from its situation,-a land in the sea. While it is surroundedby water, every part of it is many feet below the level ofthe sea, so that vessels approaching the coast can only see the tops ofthe spires,peeping above the immense dykes by which every island is surrounded.Zealand consist of nine islands, which ori- ginally formed part ofthe continent, or were separated by very inconsiderable branches of the Scheldt. In these islands the travellerwill see the dykes of Holland in their utmost perfection. The soil of the province is ex- ceedingly rich, but no considerable propor- tion of it is converted into pasturage. The favourite production of Zealand is madder,great quantities of which are exported to England, and every part of Europe. The cultivation ofthis plant appears to be extreK114 WALCHEREN. MIDDELBOURG.mely profitable, for every district of Zealand contains abundant proof of the wealth of the inhabitants; and the houses of the farmersare the chosen abodes of plenty. Although the air has apparently no inju- rious effect on the natives, it is very prejudicial to strangers. The British troops had too fatal experience of this in the unfortunate expedi- tion to Walcheren. If the traveller spendsmuch time in Zealand, he should constantly wear an envelope of flannel next to his skin;he should adopt the custom of the Dutch,and have a pipe as often as possible in his mouth, and on the first symptom of indisposi- tion he should take the Peruvian bark in aslarge quantities as his stomach will bear.WALCHEREN, at the mouth of the Hondt or West Scheldt, is the most considerable of these islands, thirteen miles long, and eight broad.It contains several towns worthy the travel- ler's attention.MIDDELBOURG is the capital of the island,and of the province. It is situated in nearly the centre of Walcheren. Few towns can boast of greater antiquity. It was calledMe- dioburgum by the Romans, whence it derives its present name. It is nearly circular, contain- ing 18,000 inhabitants, and communicating with the sea by a canal capable of bearing the largest vessels . The squares and public edi- fices are magnificent, particularly the town- hall, which is a fine Gothic building and was formerly an abbey. The place called the Abbaye is very grand. The superb churchFLUSHING.-VLISSINGEN. 115named Oostkerk, the observatory, and the promenade called Molenwater, are worthy of notice. The invention of telescopes is attri- buted by some writers to Jansen, a spectacle- maker of this city.The chief inns are the Court of Holland(Hofvan Holland) , the Golden Lion ( Goude Leeuw), the hotel of Middelbourg ( Logement Middelbourg ) , the Angel (Engel), and the Pear ( Peer).Adiligence goes every hour to Veere and Vlissingen; and a vessel three times a week to Zieriksee, twice a week to Sluys, and once aweek to Amsterdam, Bergen-op-zoom, Breda,Goes, Gouda, the Hague, Haarlem, Heusden,and Rotterdam .Five miless.s.w. of Middelbourg is FLUSHING.It is a town of great antiquity, containing 6,000 inhabitants, and is the principal defence of the entrance of the Scheldt, and all the islands of Zealand. Flushing has a fine har- bour, and the canal which runs through the middle of the town admits the largest vessels to the very quays. The stadthouse is a noble building, on the model of that at Amsterdam.The palace built by William I. , deserves at- tention. Flushing was taken by the English in 1809; and yet exhibits evident traces of the injury which it received during the bom- bardment of the place. Not far from Flushing is VLISSINGEN, con- taining 6,000 inhabitants. The harbour is commodious. In time of peace it carries oaconsiderable commerce with England. It116 VEERE. -JOOSTLAND .was the birth-place of the celebrated admiral de Ruyter.The best inns are the Angel (Engel), the Gol- denApple(GoudeAppel), and the Pear(Peer).Adiligence goes every half-hour to Middel- bourg, and vessels every week to Amsterdam,Delft , Dort , Ostend, Rotterdam, and Zierik- see. Towards the E. and at the mouth oftheharbour of Middelbourg and of the canal which separates Walcheren from Joostland,is the fort of Rammekens, but it exhibits nothing to attract the traveller from his route.At the northern opening of the same canal is ARNEMUIDEN. It was once a large and flou- rishing sea-port, but now contains only 850 inhabitants. The harbour is choaked up, and the salt-works are the onlysupport ofthe place.Pursuing our course round the island, we next arrive at VEERE OF TERVERE, five miles N. of Arnemuiden. It has 1,90o inhabitants,and contains the finest arsenal in Zealand.The town-house, and the church of Notre Dame deserve notice. The harbour is excellent. It is the emporium of the principal commerce between Scotland and Holland.The principal inns are the Golden Crown (GoudeKroon), and the Tower (Toren).Numerous villages occupy the N. and w.coasts of the island, but they are small and exhibit nothing remarkable, exceptDomberg,containing 700o inhabitants, and possessing some curious relics of antiquity.The island of JOOSTLAND lies E. of Walcheren, and is separated from it by a narrowSOUTH BEVELAND .-ZIERIKZEZ. 117canal. The village of Niewland is the prin- cipal place in it .To the east of Joostland is SOUTH BEVELAND .24 miles in length, and 7 in breadth. The only place of consequence which it contains is Goes, or Ter-Goes. It has a considerable trade in salt, corn, and metheglin; and reckons 3,700 inhabitants . The great church is ahandsome structure. A vessel sails twice aweek for Amsterdam, Middelbourg, Rotter- dam, Tholen, Veere, and Zierikzee. The best inns are the Swan (Zwaan), the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw), and the Waterman's Hotel (Schipper- schuis). It is memorable for the extraordinary manner in which the Spaniards were compelled to raise the siege of itbythe Independents. They marched abody of troops seven miles through the water, from Bergen-op-Zoom across a ford that was never deemed practicable before, and that has never been attempted since.The islands of Wolfersdyk, North-Beveland ,Duyveland, and St. Philip, contain nothing worthy of notice.The island of SCHOWEN is separated from North-Beveland by the East-Scheldt. Its chief town is ZIERIKZEE. The town-hall andgreat church should not be overlooked. Zie- rikzee was the ancient residence of the countsof Zealand, and aplace of considerable con- sequence; but the port is now almost filled with sand. One part of it was swallowed up by the sea. It is still, however, a trading and populous place, containing 6,000 inhabit-118 BROWERSHAVEN.ants. The people of Zierikzee were the first who went to fish for herrings in 1165. It subsists by the cultivation of madder, the brewing of mead, the manufactory of salt,and the herring and oyster fisheries .The chief inns are Fame (Faam), the Gol- den Lion (GoudeLeeuw), and the Great Salt- pit (Groote Zoate-keel). A vessel goes three times a week for Veere and Middelbourg,twice a week for Dort and Rotterdam, andonce for Amsterdam.BROWERSHAVEN is a seaport on the N. side of the island of Schowen, twelve miles s. w. of Helvoetsluys . Its name signifies , in Flemish,the port of the brewers. It gave birth to the grand pensionary Jacques Cats. It contains only 700 inhabitants, and subsists by the cul- tivation of madder, the making of mead,and some excellent breweries. The prospect towards the island of Goedcrede is very beau- tiful. The principal inn is the Admiral Evertz.The island of Tholen contains the town ofTolen or Tertolen .The island of Goree is N. of Schowen. Theprincipal town is Goedereede or Goeree, con- taining 700 inhabitants. It has a fine road for shipping.I will now conduct the tourist through the different towns of the northern provinces by the most frequented and pleasant routes.ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. - DELFT. 119SECT. VIII. Rotterdam to Amsterdam.Posts.... Rotterdam to the Hague ...... 2The Hague ..... Post Brug...Post Brug ...... Haarlem .... 22........Haarlem ....... Amsterdam.. 1 ....9Miles.13413443112944943The traveller will probably take some trek- schuit and embark on the canal of Schie,which skirts the post-road during the greater part of the way to the Hague. The fare to the Hague in the roef ofthe trekschuit is 12 stivers. He passes on his left the small village of Overschie; two miles farther is Ketel on the left , then Keneburg, both at a little dis- tance from the canal; and after a pleasant voyage of two hours, the canal on each side presenting a continual succession of neat but fantastic country-seats, and the water being literally crowded with boats of every appearance and description, he arrives at DELFT,nine miles from Rotterdam.This is an ancient gloomy town, containing 13,000 inhabitants. Most of the streets have aneat but sombre appearance, and are di- vided by narrow, stagnant canals; which are,however, frequently cleaned out by means of numerous sluices . In the centre of the townare two spacious streets with broad canals bordered with trees.120 DELFT.Delft was once celebrated for its potteries,the china from which was in great request throughout Europe; but from the great im- provement in the manufacture of China in England and Germany, the trade of this city has been almost annihilated.Delft gave birth to the learned Grotius,whose remains are deposited in the New Church. Hismonument is simple and elegant.It consist of a medallion representing the head of Grotius, and achild leaning on an urn with an inverted torch. The view from thesteeple of this church is esteemed the finest in Holland, but the beauty of the scenery is principally at a distance. The country im- mediately surrounding the town is boggy, and dotted with piles of white turf.This building likewise contains a superb monument to the memory of William I. ,prince ofOrange, not to be exceeded by any piece of sepulchral magnificence ofthat age inEurope. On a beautiful sarcophagus is the recumbent figure of the prince, with his fa- vourite dog reposing at his feet. At the four

  • In the campaign of 1572, someSpanish troopers sur- prised the camp ofthe prince, and, overcoming the cen- tinels ere they had power to give the alarm, silently and rapidly penetrated to the very tent in which William lay sleeping. In one minute he would have been num- bered with the dead, whenhis dog, alarmed at the ap- proaching footsteps which he seemed to comprehend were those of the enemy, sprung upon the couch of his master, and barking violently, and even scratching his face, awoke him to a sense ofdanger, from which he with extreme difficulty escaped, Having saved the life

DELFT. 121corners are bronze statues of Liberty, Forti- tude, Justice, and Religion. Under an arch at the head of the tomb, the prince is again represented sitting, and in full armour; while at the other extremity, Fame, with expanded wings, is preparing to proclaim the triumphs of the deliverer of Holland. Above is a noblecanopy of exquisite workmanship, supported by four buttresses of white marble, and nu- merous pillars of black and gold. Waving over these are the various trophies and es- cutcheons of the house of Orange-Nassau .Near the Old Church is the identical housein which William I. was assassinated. Thestaircase on which he fell , and the holes madein the wall by the bullets are yet shown. The remains of the philosopher Leuwenhoek, and the renowned Van Tromp are interred in the Old Church .The front of the Stadthouse is extensiveand curious, and the apartments contain some valuable paintings. The principal arsenal of Holland is here.The Doelen is one of the best inns in Holland, and is interesting to the traveller, as the scene of many of the councils and pre- parations ofthe Dutch patriots in their struggle against Spanish oppression. The Town-hotel (Stadsherberg), and theGolden Mill (Vergulde Molen), are good inns.of his master, the attachment of the animal to him daily increased, and when the prince expired, the faithful dog refused to eat, pined away, and died of abrokenheart.L122 RYSWICK. THE HAGUE.Boats set out for the Hague every half- hour; for Rotterdam every hour; for Leyden and Maasluys every two hours; for Amster- dam, Delftshaven, and Vlaardingen, every day; and for Arnheim, Antwerp, Bergen- op- Zoom, Breda, the Brill , Dort, Gertruydenberg,Gorcum, Gouda, Haarlem, Heusden, Middel- bourg, Nimeguen, Schoonhoven, Vlissingen,and Zierikzee once a week.Embarking once more on the canal, the traveller passes by RyswYck three miles from Delft. The princes ofOrange had a palace here in which was signed the treaty of 1697,between England, Germany, Holland, France,and Spain. The house remains, but it has for many years been let to private individuals.The scenery at Ryswick, and indeed during the whole route from Delft to the Hague, is as beautiful as a perfectly level country can possibly present. Leaving Voorburg on the right, the tra- veller arrives at the Hague, nearly five miles from Delft.Although the HAGUE is denominated a vil- lage, it yields to few ofthe noblest cities in Europe in the beauty ofits streets, the magni- ficence of its palaces, and the pleasantness of its situation. The principal street is called the Voorhout, but it is rather a series of pa- laces than a street.. Several rows of trees arein the centre, with gravel walks beneath them,and a carriage-wayon each side. These trees are preserved with as much religious care as those of the Royal Wood. The most beauTHE HAGUE. 123tiful part of the Hague is the Vyverburg, avast oblong square, with a noble walk and an avenue of trees on one side, and on the other the palace and a large basin ofwater.The only drawback onthe pleasantness of the Hague is the green and stagnant canals, which too often emit an almost pestilential stench .The Old Palace consists of an enormouspile of houses of every different architecture strangely jumbled together, yet the effect of the whole is not unpleasing. Its valuable museum of natural history, which was re- moved to Paris during the revolution, has been restored, or rather, by an amicable arrange- ment, a far richer collection than the original has been formed from the duplicates of the grand museum at Paris. The minerals are not so numerous, and probablynot so valuable as they once were, but this is abundantly compensated by the lengthened, and very complete catalogue of zoological subjects .The new Palace was begun by William III .before the Revolution. The long residence of a court at the Hague has rendered the ap- pearance of the inhabitants less characteristic and national than in most other towns ofHolland. Few persons are met in the streets whomightnot be taken for natives ofEngland .The Hague is the principal residence of the King of the Netherlands, and the sittings of the states-general are held here alternatelywith Brussels .At the distance of half a league from the Hague, is the «Palace in the Wood>>, formerly124 THE HAGUE .the summerresidence of the Princes ofOrange,and erected by Amelia of Solms, widow of Prince Frederick-Henry of Orange-Nassau.The wood is two miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and exhibits a fine display of magnificent oaks in all their native luxuri- ance. The Dutch regard them with almostsuperstitious veneration, and, during time immemorial, not a stick has been touched.This wood is the favourite walk of the inhabitants of the Hague, and the country here undulates a little, which is an unusual circumstance in this part ofHolland. The house has nothing princely about it, but resembles the residence of a country-gentleman. The painted saloon, and the Chinese rooms are however truly magnificent. The gardens are altogether different from the Dutch taste.Instead of the straight walks which displease and tire so much in mostof the Dutch gardens ,a contrary extreme is here adopted. Every walk forms a zig-zag or a curve; it then sud- denly takes an opposite direction, and leads to aspot far distant from what it at first seem- ed to promise. The traveller finds it a perfect labyrinth, while no object of taste or elegance compensates for his disappointment.TheHague wasthebirth-place ofWilliam III .king ofEngland, Huygens the mathematician,andRuysch the anatomist. It contains 35,000 inhabitants.The hotel de Belle-vue is pleasantly situated opposite the park. The other inns are the Parliament of England ( Parlement van En-SCHEVELING. 125geland), the Marshal Turenne (which has the character of being a very excellent inn), the Golden Lion ( Goude Leeuw ) , the Two cities (Twe Steden ), the Utrecht Arms ( Wapen vanUtrecht) , the New and Old Doolen, and the Amsterdam Arms ( Wapen van Amsterdam),the Court of Holland, the Golden Angel, and the Seven Churches of Rome. Vessels sailevery day at one o'clock for Delft; every two hours for Leyden; once a day for Amsterdam and Rotterdam; and twice a week for Arn- heim, Alkmaar, Breda, the Brill , Deventer,Dort, Gorcum, Gouda , Haarlem, Heusden,Kampen, Leeuwarden, Middelbourg, Utrecht,Vlissingen, Veere, Zieriksee, and Zwoll.The traveller will not leave the Haguewith- out visiting the little fishing-town of SCHE- VELING, two miles distant. Anavenueperfectly straight, thickly planted with oaks and limes,and nearly two miles in length leads to it.The steeple of Scheveling is visible on the first entrance of the avenue. It consists of about300houses chiefly inhabited by fishermen, but presenting an appearance ofneatness no where to be seen except in Holland. The beach is firm, and constantly crowded bypedestrians.The traveller will pay dearly for the fish which he may eat at Scheveling, unless he has theprecaution to make his bargain before- hand. The sand-hills hinder the sight ofthe ocean, until the traveller is almost uponit, but be is then amply repaid by the suddenness and boldness of the scene which opens upon his view.L.126 SORGVLIET.The procession of the fish-merchants of Scheveling to the Hague reminds the specta- tor ofthe peregrinations ofthe Kamtschatkans.Avast number of little carts are seen every morning proceeding to the capital, each drawn by two or three huge mastiff dogs, as tract- able and as proud of their office, as the best- broken steed. In the evening they return,but the merchant now fills the place which his cargo had occupied in the morning, and his faithful quadrupeds cheerfully and safely draw him along, until he arrives at his humble and peaceful abode.Thedress of theSchevelingers forms astrange contrast with that of the inhabitants of theHague. It would scarcely be believed that mountains did not rise , and whole oceans rollbetween the abodes ofeach, or that the popu- lation of regions the most remote from each other had not, by some convulsion of nature,been thrown together .At a smalldistance from Scheveling is SORG- VLIET. The gardens and orangery are verybeautiful, and exhibit none of that disgusting formality which usually characterizes the pleasure-grounds of Holland. The stranger should be aware ofsome notquite harmless tricks, whichwill probably be attempted to be played upon him in these gardens, As he passes over a bridge, and pauses on its centre to admire the interesting scenery around him the guide will secretly turn a key, and nume- rous little fountains will spring up from every interstice of the pavement, from which theLEYDEN. 127traveller will not be able to effect his escape,until he is wetted to the very skin. At the end of one of the walks he will be invited to sitawhile on achair most invitingly placed, butno sooner is he seated than a jet of water springs from under the bench, anddiscomposeshis dress,ifit does not give him acompletedrenching.The road now goes along the coast to Post- Brug: but probably the traveller will deviate to the right, and pursue the canal to Leyden,for which boats start from the Hague every two hours. He again passes within a short distance of Voorburg, andleavingVoorscheten on his left, six miles farther on, he arrives atthis city eleven miles from the Hague.LEYDEN occupies the centre of a tract of countryknown bytheappellation oftheRhyn- land, and which is frequently and justly de- scribed as the garden of Holland. The inha- bitants make the best butter, drink the best beer, and eat the best bread in the United Pro- vinces. The Rhynland presents to the travel- ler one uninterrupted scene of the richest cultivation, although somewhat too monotonous from its level surface, and from the very per- fection of its agriculture.The city is built on the ancient bed of the Rhine, twenty-four miles s . w. of Amsterdam,and contains 50,000 inhabitants. That branchof the Rhine which still retains its ancient name passes through the middle of it; and fromthis stream such an infinity of canals are derived, that it is difficult to say whether the water or the land occupies the greater space.

128 LEYDEN.It is surrounded by a rampart adorned with beautiful shady walks, and defended by abroad and deep canal. The streets are in- tersectedbycanals, the most beautiful ofwhich is the Rapenburg. The channels or gutters of this street are covered with boards that open like a trap-door, into which any dirt is re- movedthe moment it appears, by persons ap- pointed for the purpose. The Rapenburg is one of the finest streets in Europe.Leyden contains no less than 145 stone bridges, equally subservient to the beauty of the place, and the convenience of the in- habitants.The subterranean sewers are very curious.One of them, nearly a mile long, receives aboat through itswhole extent, for the purpose ofcleaning it.The Town-hall is a vast Gothic building in an uncouth style of architecture, and sur- mounted by a small steeple. Some ancient armour, and other curiosities are to be seen here; and in one apartment is the celebrated painting of the Judgment, by Huygens, who died at Leyden in 1533. In another apart- ment is the shop-board of Bucold, commonly called JohnofLeyden, the ambitious and fero- cious leader ofthe Anabaptists. His portrait and that of his wife are likewise shewn, and apainting representing his triumphal entry into Munster.The church of St. Peter contains some interesting monuments, particularly that of the celebrated Boerhaave. It consits of an urnLEYDEN.129placed onapedestal ofblack marble. Around it are six figures representing the four ages of man, and the two sciences in which Boerhaavemost excelled, viz. Medicine and Chemistry.On the base of the urn are ingeniously sculp- tured various emblems of the diseases to whichthe human frame is subject, and their reme- dies. On one of the faces of the pedestal is amedallion of Boerhaave with his appropriate and characteristic motto.Simplex sigillum veri.Below is the following inscription:Salutifero Boerhavii genio sacrum.The printer Elzevir and the well-known painter Gerard Douw were natives of Leyden,and in the neighbourhood was born the in- imitable Rembrandt. The old castle of Altembourg, with its labyrinth, its deep well,and delightful views; the custom-house; and the house for orphans deserve notice.Thestaple trade of Leyden, the woollenma- nufactory, has suffered much from the war,and from the superiority of the Yorkshire looms. It must, however, be confessed, that the Dutch black cloths are of a deeper and better colour than the English. The camlets and baise of Leyden are well known. Much soap and indigo are manufactured here, and the neighbouring country produces the best butterand cheese. Some largemanufactories oftiles and bricks are in the neighbourhood. In 1807, a great part of the town was de130 LEYDEN.stroyed by the explosion of a vessel laden withgunpowder.Leyden is famous for a siege which it sus- tained in 1573 against theSpaniards, when the women, aniinated by the example of Ken- nava, performed all the duties of soldiers . For seven weeks there was not a morsel of breadwithin the city. The only food was the roots of herbs and weeds, and the flesh of dogs and horses . These were soon consumed; and the people were reduced to live on soup made of the hides of the animals which they had killed. To famine, pestilence succeeded, and, in the course ofa few weeks, carried offmany thou- sands of the inhabitants. They who survived were scarcely able to perform the mournful office of burying the dead. At length two carrier-pigeons flew into the town with letters tied under their wings, announcing that reliefwas at hand. These joyful messengers were embalmed at their death, and are still pre- served in the Town-house .The States-general, filled with admiration oftheheroic conduct ofthe burghers ofLeyden,yet unable to bring into the field a sufficient force to attack the Spaniards with the smallest prospect of success, had formed the desperate resolution of laying almost the whole province under water. Although the damage necessa- rily consequent on so extensive an inundation would be immense, and, probably, irrepar- able, they preferred to desolate their native land altogether, rather than suffer the Spa- niards to triumph. They, therefore, earLEYDEN.. 131nestly began the demolition of those mounds onwhich their existence as a nation depended.The waters of the ocean rushed violently in,and in a few days the whole region from Rot- terdam to Leyden was overflowed.In the mean time numerous flat-bottomedboats were prepared, in which the Hollanders mightproceed to the succour of their brethren ,over the new sea which they had created.To their unspeakable disappointment, the water rose only a few feet . It somewhat incommoded, but did not endanger the situation of the besiegers. The banks of the rivers and canals remained too strongly fortified to render any approach to the city practicable, and the blockade was continued more closely than ever.From the walls of Leyden the miserable in- habitants could plainly discern the vessels that were destined for their relief, but they had the mortification to perceive that their nearer ap- proach was absolutely impossible. Three sad weeks passed on and the courage of those whomthe sword, the famine, and the pesti- lence had spared, began to fail. Driven to despair by the actual view of succour so near,but which could not reach them, they ran in crowds to the house of the governor, and tu- multuously exclaimed, that he ought either to give them food, or surrender the town to theenemy.«I have sworn,» replied the hero, <«that Iwill never surrender myself, or my fellow-ci- tizens to the cruel and perfidious Spaniards;and I will die rather than violate my oath.132 LEYDEN.Food, I have none, or I would give it to you;but if my death can be ofuse to you, take me,tear me in pieces, and devour me; I shall die withsatisfactionif I know that my death willbenefit you, and protract your noble defence.»His auditors gazed on each other silently,and with astonishment, and retired to their respective posts, determined rather to die of hunger, or to perish with their wives and chil- dren in the flames of the city, kindled with their own hands, than submit to the tyranny of the Spaniards .The equinox now arrived; and one of those storms arose, which they used to contemplate with dread and horror. The wind blew tempestuously on their coast, and the sea, no longer restrained by those stupendous mounds that had before held it in subjection, rushed on the land, scattering desolation and death.The forts of the besiegers were surrounded or covered with water. The flood continued torise, and the Spaniards fled terror-struck from its fury, or found a watery grave.In the mean time the little fleet of boats ,undauntedly and triumphantly advanced amidst the storm, and reached the gates ofthe city. The pale and emaciated populace ran as fast as their small remains of strength would permit, and many of them so greedily de- voured the provisions which were thus mi- raculously conveyed to them, that what was intended for their relief proved their instant destruction. Indeed, their stores ofeverykindLEYDEN. 133were so completely exhausted, that, had the blockadecontinued two dayslonger, they must all have perished.To commemorate the courage and fidelity displayed by the inhabitans of Leyden in this dreadful siege, the Prince ofOrange gave them their option, to be exempted for a certain pe- riod from taxes, or to have a university found- ed in their town. They nobly chose the latter.Never did any seat oflearning spring from anobler cause, and by the number of cele- brated men which it has produced it has not disgraced the lustre of its origin .This university was the favourite resort of ingenuous youth from every part of Europe.It imposes no religious tests , no repulsive oaths; and the examinations for academical honours are exceedingly severe and strictly impartial. The number of students was much diminished by the war, but the institution is now regaining its original splendour. The cleanliness of the town; the salubrity of the air, the beauty of the country, the cheapness of provisions, the decent frugal manners of the inhabitants, the liberality of the institu- tion, and the eminence of the professors are strong attractions, which are again rapidly fill- ing these venerable halls with pupils. The number is now ( Jan. 1818 ) about 300.The traveller will be surprised at finding so few public buildings attached to the Dutch universities. They have very trifling endow- ed foundations; the professors live in private houses, and the students in lodgings; and the134 LEYDEN.latter are distinguished by no academic dress,as in the English and most foreign universities.The students enter here at a much earlier age than is usual in Great Britain. They are ge- nerally admitted when about fifteen or sixteen years old, and must pursue their studies fiveyears before they can become candidates for the lowest degree.The illustrious Boerhaave was medical pro- fessor at this university, and the present lec- turers are men of considerable reputation and talent. The anatomical school of this institution is, however, said to be inferior to thatof Amsterdam; and possibly throughout Bel- gium the profession does not possess that emi- nence, or real skill which distinguish the prac- titioners of Great Britain, and some other countries. The reason of this is sufficiently evident, although it will appear almost incre- dible to the liberal-minded traveller, and is certainly highly disgraceful to the inhabitants of the Netherlands.The regular fee of the most eminent Belgic physician seldom exceeds two shillings. Asurgeon has but half of this inadequate remu- neration. A medical man, therefore, must labour hard, andsoon wear out his health and his constitution in visiting a sufficient number of patients to enable him to maintain the ap- pearance of a gentleman, and decently sup- port his family. Ifhe is compelled to be thus constantly employed in a round of visits, he canhave no time to study the respective cases ofhis patients, and accommodate his practiceLEYDEN. 135to the various, and often contradictory symp- toms of each; and if he is not thus constantly employed, he must starve. It follows from this, that there is not sufficient inducement formen of talents to devote themselves to the medical profession, or to undergo that laborious and expensive course ofstudy, which is indis- pensably necessary to lay the foundation for real and lasting eminence.This seat of learning had only a few public halls, distinguished neither by their magnificence nor extent, but the present government is employed in rebuilding the university in astyle more worthy ofits origin, reputation, and utility.The botanic garden attached to the univer- sity occupies about four acres . The museumcontains a noble collection of anatomical pre- parations, and the library is invaluable. Be- side a vast collection of printed books, amount- ing to 40,000, it has numerous Latin, Greek,and Oriental MSS. , and all the manuscripts of the critics Scaliger, Vossius, and Erpenius.The cabinet of pictures belonging to the late catholic priest Mr. de Leyde is supposed to be the best in Holland. Mr. Gael has a noblecollection of engravings; and Mr. Brugman ,a valuable museum of natural history and comparative anatomy.The principal inns in Leyden are the Golden Ball( GoudeBal) in Broad-street; the Amster- dam Arms ( Wapen van Amsterdam); the Gelderland Arms ( Wapen van Gelderland);the Golden Mill ( Vergulde Molen); the Star136 CATWYK.(Star); the Sun ( Zon); and the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw).Diligences or passage-boats go every two hours for Delft, the Hague, and Haarlem;three times aday, for Alphen , Meuden, and Utrecht; four times for Gouda; once forAmsterdam and Rotterdam; and once a week for Alkmaar, Deventer, Enkhuisen, Hoorn ,Kampen, Leeuwarden, Schiedam, Sneek,Vlaardingen, and Zwol .Five miles below Leyden are the extraordi- nary works of CATWYK. It is well known that theRhine, after rolling its majestic stream so manyhundred miles, finished not its destined course to the sea, but was disgracefully lost in the sands a few miles below Leyden. The country around, to a very considerable extent,imbibed the water, and an unproductive and pestilential morass was produced. The great convulsion that arrested the progress of this mighty river is said to have happened inthe year 860, when a dreadful storm heaped vast mountains of sand on this ill - fated coast.Theinhabitants ofthe neighbouringdistricts earlyconceived the gigantic project ofdraining this morass, and conducting the waters of the Rhine to the ocean by a new passage: but in- superable difficulties seemed to present them- selves, and for many centuries the scheme was deemed too romantic for execution. Themouth of the new canal would necessarily be many feet below the level of the sea at high water; and it was thought impossible to conHAARLEM. 137struct any works that could withstand the im- mense pressure of the ocean, especially when agitated by the storms of winter. But having succeeded in so many bold encroachments on the empire of the waters, they at length ven- tured on this stupendous undertaking. By the ingenuity and perseverance of the Hol- landers every obstacle was gradually overcome,andthis mighty andbeneficial project perfectly accomplished.Acanal was dug from the last branch of the Old Rhine to the sea, where it presented a triple row of sluices , so firmly built, and so ingeniously contrived, as to bid defiance to every storm. While the ocean presses onthem fromwithout theyremain shut, but as soon as the tide has ebbed to acertain point, and the external pressure is removed, or weakened, the pressure ofthe accumulated water of the canal forces them open, and the Rhine disgorges itself into the sea.One post brings the traveller back from Leyden to the direct road atPost-Brug, andhe will only have deviated from his way about three miles; or he may embark on the canal of Vaart, and proceed for Haarlem. The canal proceeds along the coast of Haarlem-meer at the distance of two or three miles. It leavesOvert-Geest on the left, and soon after Yoor- hout onthe right; Sussenheim is likewise passed on the right; a few miles farther is Kellegom andKeemstedeamile beyond, soon afterwhich we arrive at Haarlem.HAARLEM is situated on the Haarlem-meer or138 HAARLEM.lake, the water of which produces a brilliant whiteness on the linen bleached in it, whichne chemical process can equal.The Haarlem-meer lies betwen Leydea,Haarlem, and Amsterdam. It is about four- teen miles in length and breadth, and naviga- ble through its whole extent; but it is so ex- posed, and subject to storms, that vessels from Leyden to Amsterdam generally go by the canal, which is a much longer but safer passage.TheinhabitantsofHaarlem areabout 22,000,and the principaltrade is bleaching thread and cambric. Great quantities of linen are sent here from the neighbouring provinces to be whitened. There are likewise very consider- able silk and linen-manufactories. Haarlemabounds with spacious streets and handsomehouses. It was once fortified , but the ramparts now form an agreable promenade. The church is the largest in Holland. It possesses some interesting antiquities of the time of the Crusades; and the finest organinEurope, consisting of 8,000 pipes , and 68 stops. The vox humana stop has never been excelled. The museums belongingto the Academy ofScience,and the Teylerian Society at Haarlem arevaluable. The electrical machine ofimmensepower is well known.Admittancemaybe obtained to the museum of the academy every day except Sunday,from twelve o'clock until one; and to the mu- seum of the Teylerian Society, from twelve to one, and from three to four, by addressing aFAARLEM. 139letter to Mr. Van Marum, the director, in theGroote-houts- straat.Not far from the church is the house inwhich lived Lawrence Coster, the inventor of printing, in the year 1450. Astatue of him is placed on the front of the house. The first book which he printed is preserved in the Town-house, and is justly esteemed invalu- able. Wouvermans and Berghem, the paint- ers, were born here.Haarlem is much celebrated for the beautiful flowers which it produces. The tulips of this city are known in every part of Europe,and although the rage for flowers, which once proved so destructive among the respectable families of Haarlem , and which furnished theinimitable La Bruyère with one of his cha- racters has almost subsided, 50 or even 100 florins are no uncommon price for a single bulb of some rare variety. In former times one root was sold for more than 10,000 florins;and the aggregate sum produced by the sale of 120 tulips was go, ooo florins, or 6,750l.The wood of Haarlem affords a pleasing walk, and contains the superb pavilion builtby Mr. Hope, and now the residence of the Princesses Dowager of Orange-Nassau and Brunswick.Áfavourite excursion of the inhabitants ofHaarlem is to the country-seat of Hartekamp,where the celebrated Linnæus formed his sys- tem, and where are yet two tulip-trees planted by him. The villages of Bloemendaal and Velsen, arelikewiseoften visited,betweenwhich140 HAARLEM.are numerous sand hills that afford a magni- ficent view of theNorth Sea on one side, andthe richly cultivated pastures of Haarlem on the other, bordered by the river Y, and the lake of Haarlem.In 1572, this city was besieged by the Spa- niards, and after baffling every attempt ofthe enemy for more than seven months, the in- habitants and garrison were reduced to the ut- most extremity. When the magazines were completely exhausted, the people subsisted for awhile on the coarsest roots, and on the very grass. This at length failing, their horses,dogs , and even animals the most disgusting were slaughtered and eaten. This horrible food was soon consumed; and a convoy, which was hastening to their relief, was intercepted,and destroyed.Worn out by the fatigue and famine, the garrison proposed to surrender, on condition that their lives should be spared, and the town not subjected to pillage.The son of the duke of Alva, who inherited no small portion of his father's barbarity, com- manded the besieging army. He perempto- rily refused to accede to these conditions, and required that the Haarlemese should surrender atdiscretion. Alas, theyhad already too many proofs of what was implied by this. In every town thathad thus thrown itself on the mercy of the foe, pillage and murder had been let loose, and the streets had flowed with blood.Driven to absolute despair, the governor and garrison formed the resolution to leaveHAARLEM. 141behind them those who were unable to beararms, and to cut their waythrough theenemy's lines . The women and the aged were no sooner informed of this dreadful determination, that they crowded to the gate whence the soldiers had appointed to make their sally.Theythrew themselves on the necks, or clung round the knees of their husbands, fathers,sons, or brothers, and implored them not to abandon those whom they had loved to the cruelty and lust of the enraged foe, but to per- mit them to share in this forlorn attempt, and to escape, or perish together.The soldiers possessed the feelings of men.They melted into tears, and were unable to refuse their consent. The whole garrison was mustered . The stoutest of the warriors occupied the front and rear, and in the centre were placed the old men, the women, and children.They knew that it was impossible but most of themmustperish.-<< If we open our gates to the Spaniard,» said their commander, as they were about to march, «we shall certainly be murdered in cold blood: and if we must die,is it not better that we, who have so nobly contended for our religion and our liberties,should fall bravely fighting in the field, than,stripped of our arms, and chained like cri- minals, to suffer an ignominious death upon ascaffold , or in a dungeon?» The drum beat to arms, and the gates were about to be opened,when a herald arrived from the Spanish com- mander, ( who had been acquainted with their determination, and who justly dreaded what142 HAARLEM.might be effected by those who were animated by despair) , promising a full pardon to all,excepting fifty-seven .Among these fifty-seven were numbered some ofthe best patriots ofHaarlem, and those who had most distinguished themselves by their courage in its defence. The terms were hard and revolting; and even in the hopeless situation of the Haarlemese, would have been instantly rejected with indignation, had not the German part of the garrison begun to mutiny, and had not these heroic men, who were proscribed and devoted to destruction,urged the necessity of a surrender, and prayed that by their sacrifice their fellow-citizens might be preserved.The conditions were accepted; the town was surrendered to the Spaniards, and the glorious band of patriots delivered up.For three days no act of violence was offered.The inhuman Alva then arrived, under the pretence of inspecting the fortifications; but,in truth, to wreak his diabolical revenge. On the very evening ofhis arrival the 57 heroes were put to death, and not content with this sacrifice, goo ofthe garrison were executed with every circumstance of ignominy: and when the citizens , terrified at these horrible scenes , attempted to escape from the destruc- tion which might next fall on them, an in- discriminate massacre commenced. It continued until the executioners were literallytired of their murderous office: they then tied the remaining unhappy victims, two by two ,AMSTERDAM. 143and plunged them into the river; and even the sick and wounded were dragged from the hos- pitals and butchered.This inhuman cruelty will ever disgrace the name of Alva. It was as impolitic as barba- rous. It inspired the Hollanders with rageand despair; it led to the protracted defence of every town that was afterwards besieged,and particularly to the glorious defence of Leyden, which I have already described.Through the whole of the revolted provinces,one simultaneous oath was taken, to die rather than submit to such an enemy. The principal inns of Haarlem are the Golden Lion ( Goude Leeuw) , and the Amsterdam Arms ( Wapen van Amsterdam). Avessel sails every hour for Amsterdam; every two hours for Leyden; and once a week for Delft, Deventer, Dort, Enkhuisen, the Hague,Gouda, Bois-le-duc, Hoorn, Leeuwarden, Mid- delbourg, Rotterdam, Scheidam, Utrecht, and Zwoll. A diligence sets out every day for Alkmaar.The sluice that separates the river Y from the lake of Haarlem merits the attention ofthe stranger.The canal now suddenly takes an easterly direction, passes between the northern point of the Haarlem-meer, and a branch of the Zuider-Zee, and after having for many miles been enlivened by the gardens on its banks,and a crowd of vessels on its bosom, arrivesat Amsterdam.AMSTERDAM is seated on the conflux of the144 AMSTERDAM.Amstel and the Y. It is of a semicircularform, 9 miles in circumference, surrounded by a rampart with a fosse 80 feet wide, and containing 26,296 houses, and 205,000 inha- bitants.It had no existence when many of the cities ofBelgiumwere the residence ofprinces. No mention is made of it in history earlier than the year 1272, when it was a deep and pestilential morass at the mouth ofthe Amstel,covered with a few fishermen's huts.ingenuity andperseverance ofthe Dutch alone could have raised it to its present splendour.TheThe whole town stands on enorinous piles driven into the mud. Under the Stadt-housealone are 13,660. It was in allusion to the forest foundation of Amsterdam, that Erasmusobserved, when he first visited it, that he had reached a city the inhabitants of which lived like crows upon the tops of trees.As soon as the Amstel enters the city it is divided into two streams, from each of which innumerable canals branch off, communicating with each other, and with the Y, and intersecting almost every street. Thesecanals form go little islands, which are connected together by 290 bridges ofwood or stone; but none of them are worthy of notice except the Great bridge of the Amstel.However convenient these canals may be in a commercial view, they are the nuisances ofAmsterdam, for most ofthem being entirely stagnant and covered with filth, diffuse anoisome andinsupportable stench. The effectAMSTERDAM. 145of this would be most pernicious were they not occasionally cleaned out. Mills are like- wise constructed for the express purpose of communicating some motion to the water in a few of the principal canals.Agreat quantity of soil is brought downby the Y, which threatens to choke up the mouth of the river, and injure the commerce ofAmsterdam. To prevent this, several mills are erected, called Mud-mills, which are in- cessantly employed in drawing up the mud.Many ofthe streets are narrow and crowded,but in Emperor's - street (Keyser's Graft),Lord's-street ( Heere Graft), and Haarlem- street the houses present a most princely appearance.The finest views of Amsterdam are from the great bridge of the Amstel, the New City Hotel ( Nieuwe Stadsherberg), the island of Bicker (Bicker's-yland) , and from theZeeburg.The most beautiful walks are on the dyke calledHogendyk, the Plantation ( Plantage),the-Diemer-meer and the Slatuintjes; the suburb called Overtoom, the banks of theAmstel, and the quay called Buitenkant, or Ygraft, and the fortifications ofthe city.The Palace, formerly the Town-hall or Stadt-house, built by James Van Campen about the middle of the 17th century, is one of the noblest structures in Europe. It presents nearly a square of282 feet long and 255 feet deep. Its height is 116 feet.The pediment in front exhibits some well executed allegorical figures. The principalN146 AMSTERDAM.one is the city of Amsterdam, under the cha- racter of a female seated on a car drawn by two lions. The figures ofNeptune, and several other emblematical personages represent the commerce and opulence of the place.It has seven small porticos answering to the Seven United Provinces. The want of a prin- cipal entrance is a great architectural defect.The tribunal on the basement floor, sur- rounded with every awful attribute ofjustice;the great hall, and the Burgomaster's apart- ment with its paintings and exquisitely sculp- tured chimney-pieces deserve notice. Among the paintings which this noble building con- tains are the «Night Watch>> of Rembrandt,inhis best and very peculiar style; and «The meeting of the Confederates>>, by the same master. «The Repast,» by Vandyke is like- wise justly esteemed. One of the heads is inimitable, and immense sums of money have in vain been offered to permit it to be cut from the picture.Most of the ornaments throughout the Stadt-house are peculiarly appropriate. Over the door of the Secretary's apartment is the representation ofadognearly famishedwatch- ing the body of his murdered master; and by his seat is the figure of Silence with her finger on her lips . Over the hall devoted to commissions of bankruptcy is a group repre- senting Dædalus and Icarus, alluding to the speculations which are the ruin of thousands .Theprospectfromthe dome includes the whole city and its environs. The apartments andAMSTERDAM. 147paintings ofthepalace cannot be viewedwith- out a ticket.On the ground-floor are the strong apart- ments which formerly enclosed the vast treasures of the bank. Before the war it wassupposed to contain a greater quantity of bullion than any other bank in the world.The pile of precious metals was once valued at 40 millions sterling.Whenmoney is to be drawn from the bank,it is necessary to send before 8 o'clock in the morning, that the genuineness of the order may be examined. On failure of this, the person will have to pay 3 or 4 sous. Thefollowing is the form of the order.FOLIO Amsterdam, February 17th, 1818.Messrs. , the Commissioners of the Bank, will pay to A. B. fifty Florins.FLORINS 50 Signed C.D.The folio refers to the page in the bank- ledger in which the person's account is kept.The bank is shut for a fortnight in January and July, and a week at Easter, Whitsuntide,and Christmas.The present Hotel-de-ville, or Town-Hall was formerly called the Prinsenhof. The municipality of Amsterdam occupied it when Louis, the brother of Napoleon, fixed his re- sidence at the palace.ThePost-office is in the Voorburgwal behind the palace. Letters are daily sent to, and148 AMSTERDAM..received from most of the provinces. They are despatched to almost every part of the continent on Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur- day, at 4 in the afternoon, and received on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday mornings.To England and Ireland they are sent onTuesday and Friday, at half past 7 in the evening, and received on the same days; and to Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Hamburg, etc. on Tuesday and Saturday at half past 7, and received about 6 o'clock on the same evening.Few of the churches of Amsterdam containany thing worthy of notice. They form astrange and disgraceful contrast with the noble edifices that arrest the attention of the traveller in almost every town in the Low Coun- tries . The Old Church will perhaps be visited on account of the splendid altar-pieces which it contains, and the interesting monuments of De Witt, Kortenaar, and De Liefde. Thepulpit is of acacia-wood, delicately carved. One of the chapels surrounding this immense edifice will be regarded by the liberal tra- veller as truly sacred ground. Whenthe reli- gious assemblies of the protestants were every where else forbidden under pain of death;when in every surrounding country the re- formists were persecuted, despoiled and mur- dered; and when, in the provinces ofBelgium,thousands fell every year beneath the hand of the public executioner, the magistrates of Am- sterdam, although catholics, and zealous for the faith which they professed, granted this spot, with most commendable liberality, forAMSTERDAM. 149the worship and burial of the Hamburgh pro- testant merchants. This was the first fruitsand the pledge of that complete toleration and religious freedom by which the states of Holland have been so singularly and so ho- nourably distinguished.The traveller cannot fail of being somewhat disgusted at the mean, worn-out, and dirty benches, without even the slightest covering of paint, with which the body of the Old Church is filled .The New Church contains the splendid mausoleum ofadmiral de Ruyter.Amsterdam contains three large theatres.The Dutch theatre is open onMonday, Wed- nesday, and Saturday; and the French theatre on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday.The German and Italian theatres are underthe same roof.The Dutch theatre is principally confined to the performance of tragedy. Holland can boast of some respectable tragic authors.Comedy seems to be less suited to the genius of this people, and the comic pieces that are occasionally performed are seldom from the pen of native authors, but translated from the German or the French. The Frenchtheatreis more frequented, and exhibits greater variety. The actors on the German stage are chiefly Jews; and the Italian theatre is appropriated to the opera and the ballet.In the Dutch theatre, in the interval be- tween the acts, which at one time exceeds an hour, most ofthe audience quit the house toN.150 AMSTERDAM.take some refreshment, and they who remain amuse themselves with smoking. None of the Amsterdam theatres admit persons at half-price, but a crowd of boys surround the avenues, who purchase the re-admission tic- kets, and sell them again.None of the theatres are often crowded,and the people of Amsterdam are less fond of these exhibitions than the inhabitants of mostlarge cities . This does not, however, arise altogether from want of taste, but simply because there are fewer idle persons in Am- sterdam than in most other towns .The Rondeel , which has been said to re- semble and rival the British Vauxhall, consists of one large room well lighted, and a dimi- nutive square court planted with trees, from the branches of which lamps are suspended.The principal amusement of the place is dancing; and although many of the dancers are of no equivocal character, the respectable merchants of Amsterdam join them without scruple, and without any impeachment of their moral character.The price of admission is one shilling, and,strange to relate , the Rondeel is most crowdedon Sunday evening.In Amsterdam, and in most of the Dutch cities, it is usual in the evening, and especially after the play, to go to the Spiel-house or licensed brothel. The unfortunate girls are seated on both sides, or parading and dancing in the middle of a long hall, at the bottom.of which are some musicians in a galleryAMSTERDAM. 151When a visitor feels an inclination to dance,he nods to one of the girls, who immediately joins him, and the poor creature is obliged to drink and to dance at the pleasure ofevery new comer, as long as her strength will sup- port her, or to retire at the beck of any de- bauchee, however disgusting.Nothing is demanded for admission, but each visitor is expected to call for some wine or spirituous liquors, for which double the usual amount is charged; and with this he generally treats some of the wretched females ofthe place.These brothels pay a heavy contribution to the government; and are visited twice a week by a surgeon, and once a month by a police- officer.Athousand artifices are employed to decoy the unfortunate girls into these detestable houses. Having once crossed the threshold,a debt real or fictitious is rapidly incurred for dress and food. The immediate payment ofthis debt is soonperemptorily demanded;and either by persuasion or threats, the hapless female is induced to sign an agreement not to quit the Spiel-house until the sumn is liquidated. The keeper of the brothel thus ac- quires a legal right over his victim, and should she escape from his hateful tyranny he con- fidently appeals to the officers of the law,bywhomshe is violentlyseized, andinhumanly dragged back to the haunt of infamy.Invain she hopes gradually to repay the debt. The exorbitant charge made for every152 AMSTERDAM.article with which she is supplied, and the habits of imprudence and extravagance that she acquires, daily add to the original sum .In this loathsome prison she is confined, while her youth, her health, or her beauty remain;and when these are fled, and her admirersdesert her, and she can no longer contribute to the infamous gains of her tyrant, she is stripped of all her finery, and turned upon the world, destitute, diseased, and unpitied.Inconsistent as itmayappear with the sobercharacter of the Dutch, it is not unusual to see the merchant with his wife and childrenat these abodes of iniquity. As the Lacedæ- monians made their slaves drunk to inspire their offspring with an aversion to drunken- ness; so the Dutch parents carry their sons and daughters to the public and privileged brothels, to expose the infamy of prostitution and profligacy. It is, however, much to be feared, that these scenes will producein lively and ardent imaginations impressions the re- verse of what is intended. Many unhappy females have confessed that before they fol- Jowed their parents to the Spiel-house, they were perfectly innocent, but that from what they observed at that place, their minds be- came corrupted long before their persons were debauched. The Dutch are so much preju- dicedinfavour of this preservative of chastity,that it avails but little to attempt to dispute with them on the subject.The stranger can scarcely pass through any ofthe principal towns ofHolland orBelgiumAMSTERDAM. 153without being made acquainted with the existence and situation of these or similarhouses of vice. Boys and men will often accost him in the street, and offer to conduct himto the temples of debauchery, fluently and unblushingly expatiating on the charms of the dangerous inmates. Numerous cards of address will likewise be forced upon him by the priestesses of pleasure themselves or theiragents.The number oflicensed brothels is absolutely incredible. Rotterdam is said to contain 500, and Amsterdam many more.The Rasp-house, or House of Correction should certainly be visited. The government of these penitential abodes is admirably con- ducted. While every attention is paid to the real comfort of the prisoners, they are not permitted to be idle or dissolute. If by their crimes they had offended the justice of their country, they are afterwards compelled to contribute to its revenue by their industry;and the habits of orderly behaviour which they acquire in the Rasp-house are often re- tained through life. The traveller will probably be surprised at the number of prisoners that crowd the Rasp- house, and every place of confinement in Holland. More than athousand persons are often enclosed within the walls of this houseof correction. If, however, he attributes this to any deterioration in the morals of the Dutch, or supposes that criminal offences are more frequent in Holland and Belgium than154 AMSTERDAM .in the neighbouring countries, he will judge hastily and uncandidly.The truth is, that the government of the Netherlands is wisely and humanely sparing of the lives of its subjects. Only crimes of the greatest atrocity are punished with death.The robber, the housebreaker, the forger,and the coiner, are condemned to 5, 10, 15,or 20 years ofimprisonment, or, in extreme cases , are deprived of their liberty as long as they live. The policy of this I am not here called upon to defend, although that defence would be easy and delightful: I merely men- tion the fact, to account for the very great number of convicts that fill every maison-de- force, throughout Belgium.In one corner of the court-yard of the Rasp-house is a cell once used for the punish- ment of those who were otherwise incorrigibly idle. A pump is on one side, and astream of water descends from the opposite side. If the prisoner does not incessantly work at the pump, he must inevitably bedrowned.The Workhouse, which is partly correc- tional and partly charitable, has no parallel in the world. While it affords a comfortablerefuge for the poor, it is an admirable school for the reformation of offenders .The correctional part is confined to those whohavebeen guilty ofslight offences. Some things are included in the list of these, which are scarcely cognizable by the English law,and the punishment of which in a summaryAMSTERDAM. 155way, however beneficial in a political view,would not be tolerated in Britain. Husbands,on complaint of extravagance or drunkenness ,duly proved, may send their wives to be con- fined and receive the discipline of the house.On the other hand, husbands, ifguilty of the same offences , are equally liable to punish- ment; nor does the confinement terminatebut with the apparent reforination of the pri- soner. In one part of the building youngladies of the first families are imprisoned for undutiful behaviour, or any other great do- mestic crime.Few cities contain so many public buildings devoted to the cause of humanity as Amster- dam. Nine hospitals and schools are estab- lished for the reception of orphans. Thehospital for lunatics, near the Leyden gate,deserves particular praise for the mild, yet salutary and effectual regulations by which it is governed, so different from the barbarouscoercion that in almost every civilized country disgraces the abodes of these unfortunates . One regulation established in most of the hospitals should be particularly mentioned,and the charitable institutions of other landsmight adopt it with advantage. In the most extensive establishments, not more than two or three regular nurses are retained, but the offices of kindness and attention that are dueto the sick, are, according to their circum- stances and their strength, discharged by those who are convalescent. A considerable expense is saved, and they who have reaped156 AMSTERDAM.the beneft of the institution, repay the debt ofgratitude in the most pleasing and effectual way. The comfort of the sick is likewise pe- culiarly studied, since they who have just experienced the need and the value ofthe be- nevolent assistance of others, are likely to prove the tenderest and most assiduous nurses.TheFoundlingHospital, on the Princegraeft,into which infants are admitted without exposing the unfortunate parents, is said to contain nearly 3,000 children .Among the public institutions of Amster- dam the Naval School will not be forgotten.Its title sufficiently explains its intention. It enjoys considerable funds, by means of which ,the children of common sailors , properly re- commended, are gratuitously educated; while the sons of naval officers of every rank are admitted on the payment of 12 florins per month. All are fed; and clothed, and in- structed alike, and from this school has issuedalmost every officer that has done honour to the Dutch flag .The society termed Felix Meritis was insti- tuted in 1777, and contains nearly all the li- terati of Amsterdam and the Netherlands. Itis divided into five classes. The first is occupied by agriculture, commerce, and manufac- tures; the second by the mathematics andna- tural philosophy; the third by painting, sculp- ture, and architecture; the fourth by music;and the fifth by general literature. Each class has its separate museum, library, and hall of assembly.AMSTERDAM. 157The Lees-Museum, on the Rokin, is an ex- cellent literary institution. It contains mostof the native and foreign journals, and the newest and best publications in every living language. It is compossed of 300 members;and a stranger, introduced by a member, may frequent the rooms, as long as he pleases without expense.The Botanic Garden is large and well stock- ed, but it contains few rare or curious plants .Four stivers are paid for admittance.Near the Workhouse is the Plantation, alarge piece of ground divided into numerous little gardens with pretty cottages, and sum- mer-houses; and the whole surrounded bycanals. Some of the principal roads, and the most frequented walks, lie through and near it. Manyofthe Dutch merchants smoke their afternoon-pipe, and the females sip their tea,or work in these open summer-houses, appa- rently deriving as much pleasure from seeing andbeing seen as any other people in theworld.The Exchange is a handsome and commo- dious building, and even in the most disas- trous period of the late war, presented a little less crowded appearance than the Exchange of London.Arecent lively traveller has the folllowing passage on the multitudes of Jews who infest this city. «This day being Friday, we de- termined to visit the Jewish synagogue. On entering their place of worship there was some singing, of which we were very soon tired;there was not one respectable looking man0158 AMSTERDAM.among them; indeed they seemed a collection of old cloaths men from all the towns in Europe. Our guide very ill naturedly bid us mind our pockets; but manyny of them who talked English came up and civilly pointed out the different ornaments , and the uses of the buil- ding: they were howling the lamentations of Jeremiah when we returned to our inn.»The port is so wide; that though both sides are thronged with shipping, the channel in the middle is at least as broad as the Thamesat London-bridge; but the harbour does not extend to more than half the length of the Pool at London.The principal inns arethe Doelenin Doelen- street , the Rondeel at the corner of the same street , the Doelen on the Garnaalen Markt, the Amsterdam Arms (Wapen vanAmsterdam),the Swan ( Zwaan), the Mint ( Munt), the Imperial Crown (Keiser'sKroon), the City Lion (Stadt Leeuw), the First Bible, the Second Bible, the New Heerenlogement, and the New Stadsherberg. Inthe neighbourhood ofHeere and Keyser's Graft, comfortable ready-fur- nished lodgings may be procured at reason- able rates .Coaches and boats daily start for almost every part of Holland and Belgium. The prin- cipal offices are the New Heerenlogement, and onthe Haarlemmerdyk. Places may be taken at either of these offices , or at that of thecommissioners, No. 123Reguliersdwarstraat .The traveller will recollect that the coachstarts precisely at the stroke of the nearest clock. It likewise leaves the commissionersSAARDAM. 159office half an hour before its departure from the inns.Nine hours are allowed for the journey to Alkmaar, 18 to Arnheim, 20 to Breda, 12 to Delft, 10 to Gouda. 44 to Groningen, 11 to the Hague, 32 to Middelbourg, 14 to Rotterdam,and 8 to Utrecht.The gates of Amsterdam are shut at half- past four in the winter, and at a later hour as the days lengthen and the summer advances.From thebeginning ofMayto the beginning of August, they are openuntil half-past ten, but persons may be admitted untilhalfpast-eleven on paying one stiver. After that hour, 10 stivers are exacted from each passenger, and six stivers for every horse. The gates are opened at seven o'clock in the morning in winter, and at four in summer.In consequence of the nature of the soil on which the city has been erected, a positive order exists , prohibiting the use ofany wheel vehicles, lest the vibration should injure the stability of the houses, all of which, as we have before remarked, are erected upon piles driven into the morass; as a substitute, a car- riage of a very curious and ridiculous descrip- tion is much used, it consists of the body of acoach placed on a sledge and drawn by one horse: the reader may conceive the extra- ordinary appearance which these preposterous vehicles present to the eye of the stranger on his first arrival. Abarrel of water is always placed immediately over the front of the sledge; from which a constant dripping taking place, the sledge glides along with great faci-160 SAARDAM.-1lity; the fare per course is 8d. for anydistance within the city, and 8d. per hour to the driver for his attendance.Before the traveller quits Amsterdam he should visit SAARDAM. The houses of this village are principally built of wood. They are paintedwith various colors, and a litle fantastic babysort of garden is attached toeach. Here were formely vast magazines of timber, but comparatively few ships are now builtat Saar- dam. Thehut in which Peter the Great workedas a common shipwright is still shewn. In 1696 that singular personage presented himself at Saardam in thedress ofa sailor, and hired himself as a shipwright to one of the builders. He ate, drank, slept, and worked with the other carpenters; and by his jocula- rity, and a certain superiority which he could notquiteconceal, acquired thename of«Master Peter.>>> Several weeks elapsed ere it was suspected that Master Peter was any thing more than a journeyman shipwright: but when it was at length discoveredthat the Czar of all the Russias was concealed under this mean appear- ance, his companionsbegan to treat him withthe respect due to his rank. Master Peter,however, insisted that all their former fami- liarity should be resumed, and continued to associate with them, and to work like them,until he had become a good pilot, an excellent shipwright, and had thoroughly acquainted himselfwith the construction of every part of a ship of war. The reeder well knows whatuse heafterwards made of the knowledgewhich he had thus acquired at Saardam, and atBROEK, OR BROCK.161Woolwich, wherehe adopted asimilardisguise.The wealth of Saardam now arises from itsnumerous tobacco, paper, and sawing-mills.They are worked by the wind, and exceed 2,300 in number, each of which is neatly,though often grotesquely painted. Some of them will cut 40 planks at once.Frequent excursions are made to Saardam from Amsterdam. It is generally best to hire a boat, for which eight or nine florins are paid. The passengers in the common boat are not always the most select, nor the water- men very civil. The view of Amsterdam,when about half a mile from land, is extremely beautiful. It will be necessary for the traveller to agree positively with the boatman at what hour he will return from Saardam ,and that he shall be taken back again to his very inn, otherwise the owner of the boat will notwant pretexts for returning muchtoo early for the traveller's pleasure, and for leaving him at a considerable distance from his hotel. They dress excellent fish at the Loutre, but a pre- vious agreement should bemade for the price .The singular and beautiful village ofBROEK Or BROCK, should not be forgotten. The streets are divided by little rivulets, paved in mosaic workwith variegatedbricks, pebbles and shells,and kept in such exquisite order, that a dog or cat are seldom seen to trespass upon them.Carriages arenotpermittedto enter the village,and it is said that a law formely existed, which obliged passengers to take off their shoes in summerassoonas they enteredit. The houses0.162 ZIEST.are about 300 in number; they are painted green and white, and are most whimsical in their shape and appearance. Each stands in the centre of a small garden, curiously laid out. Thewalks are bordered with shells , and bits ofglass of different colours grotesquely,yet prettily arranged. The shutters of the front windows are generally closed, and the principal entranceis seldom opened but on the marriage or death of one of the family. The inhabitants scarcely ever admit a stranger within their doors, and hold but little inter- course with each other, One inn is at the entrance ofthe village, and it is the only house the interior of which a stranger has the least chance ofseeing.Near Amsterdam is Soetsdyke, where was formerly a favourite sporting chateau of the Orange family, but scarcely better than an English country mansion. The forest affords manypleasant scenes, and is the resort of nu- merous parties from Amsterdam.NearSoetsdyke is ZIEST. The French troops ,under General Marmont erected a vast pyramid here in honour of Napoleon. Its height is 110 feet, and each side of the base is 148 feet long. It commands a noble view over the surroundingcountry. Ziest is a handsome town, with agreeable plantations and pleasant walks , much frequented by summer parties from Amsterdam. The principal object of curiosity is a spacious building containing anumerous society of Herenhuthers, or Mora- vians, whose singular manners and opinions are well known.ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM. 163SECT. IX. RoutefromRotterdam to Amsterdam through Gouda.Posts.ROTTERDAM to Gouda.......... 2Extra charge for a 3d horse.Gouda to Alphen............. 2Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Alphen to Liemuiden.........Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Liemuiden to Amsterdam ..... 28................Miles.12128413447Ifthe travellerbe so disposed, or for the sake of variety, he may pursue this route from Rot- terdam to Amsterdam; but if he goes post, he will find the roads exceedingly heavy and bad,and will be obliged to pay for extra horses.There is no direct conveyance by the dili- gence, and the passage by water is circuitous .This road likewise will afford little worthy his attention, except the village of ALPHEN, the most beautiful in this part of the country, and supposed to have been the Albiniana Castra ofAntoninus, orthe camp ofAlphenus Varus,the Batavian General, mentioned by Tacitus;and the town ofGouda, with the delightful country round it. It is situated on the Yssel,at the influx of the Gouw, 12 miles N. E. ofRotterdam.The principal trade is in yarn, tow, tobacco,164 GOUDA . OUDENWATER .and pipes. Of the latter there were once no less than 300 manufactories. It contains12,000 inhabitants. The church of St. Johnthe Baptist is much admired. Its painted glass, by the brothers Crabeth, is supposed to be the first in Europe. One painting is in- imitable, representing our Saviour in the temple at twelve years of age. Ketel the painter, who employed his toes as well as his fingers , was born here.The whole country for manymiles round Gouda may be inundated in a few hours by means of enormous sluices, which the traveller will probably visit.Gouda is surroundel by several delightful villages , particularly Moordrecht, Gouderak,and Booskoop famous for itsnursery grounds .Adiligence starts every two hours for Rotter- dam, and vessels three times adayfor Utrecht;every day for Amsterdam and Dordrecht; four times a week for Leyden; three times for Schoonhoven and Oudenwater; and once forDelft, Goes, the Hague, Haarlem, Bois-le-duc,Middelbourg, Montfoort, Nimeguen, Schie- dam, Veere, Vlissigen, and Woerden. The principal inns are the Salmon ( Zalm) and the Doelen.A passage-boat goes three times a week fromGouda to OUDENWATER eight miles to the the E., containing 1,600 inhabitants. It has many ropeyards, and a prodigious quantity of hemp is grown in the neighbourhood. The celebrated Arminius, the founder ofthe sect of Arminians, was born at Oudenwater.The Doelen is the best inn. A passage-AMSTERDAM TO THE HELDER . 165boat goes three times a week to Gouda, and once a week to Amsterdam, Leyden, and Utrecht.Five miles N. of Oudenwater, on the banks of the Rhine, and on the road from Leyden to Utrecht, is WOERDEN, a strongly fortified town ,containing 2,600 inhabitants. It has some beautiful boulevards and promenades. The best inn is the Town-Hotel ( Veer-huis ) .SECT. X. Route from Amsterdam to theHelder.AMSTERDAM to Haarlem .......Haarlem to Beverwyk ...... ..Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Posts.....Miles.92 .... 12Beverwyk to Alkmaar........ 2Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Alkmaar to Zand. ........Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse....3134• 34 .... 18Zand to the Helder ........... 2Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse. 12.... 13.674The traveller may go from Amsterdam to Haarlem by the route already described, and thence proceed by adaily coach to Beverwyk and Alkmaar; ora boat which sails every day will take him direct to Beverwyk by an arm of the Zuyder-Zee. In the former case, he166 BEVERWYK.will leave Bloemendaal a little to his left, two miles and a half beyond Haarlem; six miles farther on he will pass through the village of Velzen, four miles from Bewerwyk, or Beverwyk .BEVERWYK is a small town on the Y, near the Zuyder-Zee, containing 1,600 inhabitants.The environs are very beautiful , enriched with numerous country-seats ofthe principal mer- chants of Amsterdam. It has some vinegar manufactories, and a large house for the re- ception of lunatics. The principal inn is the Heerenlogement. A stage passes through it every day for Haarlem and Alkmaar, and aboat starts every day for Amsterdam.Five miles beyond Beverwyk the road lies through Aitgeest. It then leaves Kastrikum,and afterwards Bakkum on the left. Opposite Bakkum is Limmon on the right, and six miles and a half beyond Aitgeest the road passes through Koilo. To the left are the three vil- lages of Egmont-binnen, Egmont-aan-Zee,and Egmont-op-den-Hoef. The latter was once a considerable town, but was destroyed by the Spaniards in 1573. It now exhibits extensive and picturesque ruins. The noble family ofEgmont, celebrated in the struggle for Dutch independence, derived its origin from this village.The road has hitherto skirted the sea at thedistance of three or four miles, and will con- tinue to do so as far as the Helder. Somepleasing, but not grand views of the ocean, nowandthen occur, but in general theALKMAAR . 167sand-hills which line the shore conceal itfrom the view.Two miles beyond Koilo is ALKMAAR, a neat andpleasant town, containing 8,300 inhabit- ants. A little wood in the neighbourhood,called Alkmaarden-hout affords a charming promenade, and the boulevards likewise form adelightful walk. Alkmaar is celebrated for the noble resistance which it made against the Spaniards in 1573. In 1799 the disastrous expedition to Holland terminated here by the surrender of the British army to the French.It is much visited in summer, on account ofits flowers, particularly its tulips. The prin- cipal trade is in corn, butter, cheese, and nets,the making of which employs most of the inhabitants. Alkmaar possesses a very decent theatre; a concert-room, and other places of amusement.Thepleasinground visage, fresh complexion,sparkling eyes, and simple but tastefuland be- coming dress ofthe peasant girls in the neigh- bourhood of Alkmaar, will not be overlooked by the traveller. The chief inns are the Doelen, the Castle ( Burg) , and the Heeren- logement. Aboat leaves Alkmaarfor Amster- dam every day, and coaches for Haarlem,Opmeer, and Spanbroek: for Zyp, Niedorper,and Verlaat, twice everyday; for Oudskarspel four times a week; Medenblik twice a week,and Schagen, three times a week.The road now leaves Outderp on the right,Bergen on the left, and three miles and a half from Alkmaar lies through Koedyk. Schoorl,168 THE HELDER. THE TEXEL .Groet, and Camperdown, are now successively passed on the right. The last village is cele- brated for the victory obtained off this coast by Admiral Duncan over the Dutch in 1797- Krabbendam now occurs on the left, and Engerburg on the right, after which the tra- veller arrives at Zand, which containsnothing remarkable. Some miles beyond Zand he leaves Kalansoog on the left. The road is soon afterwards enclosed between the oceanand the Zuyder-Zee, and the traveller pro- ceeds for many miles along anisthmus not two miles broad, affording continual and some- times interesting views of both seas.The HELDER at which he now arrives, is astrong fort defending the entrance of the Texel. It was taken by the English in 1799,but soon afterwards abandoned.Opposite to the Helder is the TEXEL, at the mouth of the Zuyder-Zee. The passage between them is called Mars-Diep. The en- trance to it is very dangerous, particularly in rough weather, on account of two sand-banks calledthe Noorderand Zuyder Haaks, betweenwhich it is necessary to pass. An E. or N. Ε.wind is most favourable for the attempt.When the passage has been effected, the eastern side of the Texel affords a safe andcommodious harbour, called the road of Moscow.The island of the Texel possesses a fertile soil. The sheep are numerous and celebrated;and with the milk of these animals they make a cheese, which forms their principal luxury,THE ZUYDER-ZEE . 169although to the stranger it has a very disagree- able taste. The principal villages on the Texel are Burg, Oostereinde, Wester-einde, Hoorn ,and Schilt, but they exhibit nothing remark- able.To the N. E. of the Texel are the islands ofVlieland, Schelling, and Ameland, shutting up the mouth of the Zuyder-Zee, and only leav- ing very narrow and dangerous passages .These were evidently once united to the con- tinent. The period at which they were dis- membered is unknown.SECT. XI. Voyage from the Helder toAmsterdam.If the traveller does not proceed from the Helder to Leeuwarden andGroningen, hemay return to Amsterdam by one of the vessels which daily traverse the Zuyder-Zee, between the Texel and that city. He will then have an opportunity of visiting, or seeing at adistance some pleasant towns on the western coast of the Zuyder-Zee. The ZUYDER-ZEE, or as its name signifies ,the South-Sea, fills a large space between the provinces of Friesland, Overyssel, Guelder- land, and North-Holland. In the time of the Romans it did not occupy one-fourth of its present extent, but it has been increased by successive inundations, the periods ofwhich are unknown. The industry of the DutchP170 ENKHUYSEN.has, however, opposed an effectual barrier to its further encroachments .After passing the island of Wieringen, and several little ports, the first place that occurs deservingnotice is MEDENBLIK, containing 2,000 inhabitants. It has three ports capable of holding 300 vessels. The chief trade is in timber brought from Norway and Sweden.The remains of an ancient castle are seenhere, said to be built by Redbond, King of the Frisii, and the town was once the capital of North Holland. The inns are the Red Lion( Rood Leeuw) and the Town of Hoorn ( Stadt-Hoorn ) . Adiligence goes every day to Hoorn; and a vessel twice a week to Alk- maar and Amsterdam. The land is here con- siderably lower than the sea.Sailing by Opperdoes, the next place which occurs is ENKHUYSEN. Acentury ago it was aflourishing sea-port, but the harbour is now choked with sand. It is beautifully situated ,and by means of a canal yet commands con- siderable trade, particularly in salt- fish. It has likewise a large cannon-foundry. The town-hall scarcely yields to any in Holland.It contains 6,800 inhabitants.Boats go to Hoorn twice aday; and a vessel sails once a week for Alkmaar, Amsterdam,Deventer, Franeker, Harlingen , Hasselt,Kampen, Leeuwarden, Leyden, Rotterdam ,Sneek, Staveren, Steenwyk, the Texel, Vlie- land, and Zwoll, The principal inn is the Court of Holland.Next appear the little villages of Beek-HOORN. -EDAM. 171karpsel, Verhuizen, Leek, and Schelanckkout,after which is the town of HOORN.The villages between Enkhuysen and Hoorn succeed each other so rapidly, as to form an almost uninterrupted succession.HOORN is a considerable sea-port, with agood harbour. The principal trade is in cattle,which they import from Denmark, butter,cheese, andbeer; and its herring fishery is valuable. Many ships are built here. The first net for catching herrings was used atHoorn.The celebrated navigator, Shoutens, who in 1616 discovered Cape Horn, and gave it the name of his native town, was born here.It contains 9,600 inhabitants. The neigh- bouring country is very pleasant. The chief inn is the Ship on the Stocks ( Onvolmaakti- Schip ) . Diligences and vessels set out every day for Amsterdam, Alkmaar, and Enkhuysen.Not far from Hoorn are the villages of Tcharwoude and Schardam, seven miles to the s. of which is EDAM, on the Ee, 12 miles N. N. E. of Amsterdam , containing 2,700 inha- bitants, and famous for its red-rind cheeses.Much salt is likewise made here, and a con- siderable trade is carried on in fish oil. Thesurrounding country was formerly a lake. It is absurdly said that amermaid was kept se- veral years at Edam, which was taught to spin, and perform several domestic offices.Boats go every day to Amsterdam; four times aday to Hoorn, and six times a day to Mon172 PURMERENDE. MONNIKENDAM.nikendam. The Heerenlogement is the prin- cipal inn.Ten miles w, ofEdam is PURMERENDE, con- taining 2,400 inhabitants, and situated at the extremity of the marsh formerly called Purmer.The tract of land now denominated theBeemster, and which produces the finest mut- ton in Holland, was once a great lake, and was drained by the industry of the inhabitants of Purmerende. The vast undertaking was commenced in 1608, and completed in four years. Some idea maybe formed of the dif- ficulties that were surmounted, when it is recollected that this part of the country is perfectly flat, and many feet below the level of the sea at high water.Theprincipal commerce is in timber, hides,cheese, horses, and cattle. The Heerenloge- ment is a good inn. Passage-boats go every day to Amsterdam, Edam, and Hoorn . Sailing from Edam, the traveller passes by Vollendam, and soon perceives MONNIKENDAM,abeautiful village, containing about 2,000 in- habitants, whose principal trade is herrings,soap, and silk. It derives its name from aneighbouring lake, called Monnikenmeer.Monnikendam has twice been burned to theground.The chief inn is the Doelen: and a passage- boat goes every day to Amsterdam and Edam.Opposite to Monnikendam is the island of Marken. Passing the little port of Witdam,we arrive at the entrance of the harbour ofMUYDEN. 173Amsterdam. Abank ofsand, called the Pam- pus, chokes its entrance, but the industry of the Dutch can overcome every difficulty, and almost accomplish impossibilities. Amachine somewhat resembling an enormous chest, 16о feet in length, is filled with water, and at- tached to each side of the vessel. The water isthen driven out, the machine rises and bears the vessel with it, which is thus elevated four,five, or six feet, and passes safely over the sand.To follow the western coast of the Zuyder- Zee by land, forms as pleasant an excursion as any that Holland affords. The villages are so close to each other, that they seem to form one continued garden.SECT. XII . Visit to Naarden.DURING his stay at Amsterdam , the travel- ler will probably visit Naarden, which, on account of its importance, if not its beauty,shouldnot be overlooked. He should embarkon the canal , andnot onthe Zuyder- Zee. After passing near the mouth of the harbour, he ar- rives at MUYDEN, containing about 1,000 inha- bitants. It is surrounded by lofty dykes, and pleasant walks and possesses some antiquities.The principal inns are the Porpoise (Bruinvis)and the Prince ofOrange.Two miles farther is the village ofMuider- berg, celebrated for a curious echo which seems to proceed from the ground.Fourmiles s. of Muyden, is Wesep, containP.174 AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT .ing about 3,000 inhabitants. The country is very fertile and pleasant. The Currycomb is an exellent inn.Four miles beyond Muiderberg is the small ,but strong town of NAARDEN, containing 1,800 inhabitants. In the 12th century it was des- troyed by a sudden inundation. The foundations of the ancient town are yet to be seen at low water. In 1572 it was taken by theSpaniards , and all the inhabitants, without the distinction of age or sex, were put to the sword.It is at the head of the principal canals of South Holland, and is reckoned the key ofthe country. The principal manufactures are vel- vets and cloths. The chief inns are the Court of Holland ( Hof van Holland ) , the Spread Eagle, ( Dubbleden Arend ), and the Imperial Crown( Keizers Kroon). Apassage-boat goes six times a day to Amsterdam, and three times a week to Amersfoort .SECT. XIII. Route from Amsterdam toUtrecht.Posts. Miles.Amsterdam to Loenem ....... 2Loenem to Utrecht ........... 25........1313274The traveller will find it more pleasant an less expensive to proceed to Utrecht by water.UTRECHT. 175Aboat sets out from Amsterdam three timesevery day. He passes through the villages of Ouwerkerk, Abcou, Baambrugge, Loenersloet,Loenem, Nieumersluis , (a small fortified town)Breuketen, Maarson , and Zullen, the banks of the canal being covered with gardens and country seats; but nothing occurs of sufficient consequence to delay him on his journey.Near to Utrecht the houses encroach somuchon the canal, that it is impossible for a horse to pass along the narrow-payed footway. He is, therefore, unyoked from the trekschuit,and his place is generally supplied by, what the traveller would deem avery unsuitable substitute, an old woman. She, however, tows the boat along with much cheerfulness, with- out any great apparent effort, and at a tolera- bly brisk rate.UTRECHT, built on a rising ground on the banks of theRhine, is one of the most beauti- ful cities in Holland, next to the Hague. It boasts of very great antiquity, and was known to the Romans by the name of Trajectum Ulpii, so called from Ulpius Trajan. It was one the principal fords of the Rhine.The banks of the canals are steep and high,and the water is twenty feet below the street.The access to them for the servants of the adjoining houses is by a subterranean passage.These canals are much neglected, and covered with every kind of offal, which is left to pu- trefy on their surface. The mall is apleasing walk, more than a mile in length, and border- ed with several rows of noble trees, with a176 UTRECHT.carriage road on each side. The ruins of the cathedral afford a fine specimen of Gothic ar- chitecture. One aisle remains, scarcely in- juredbytime. Inthis,divine service is regularly performed. The tower is 464 feet high, and from its top fifty-one walled cities and towns maybe seen. The view is said to be the mostextensive in Europe.Utrecht was once a rich and powerful see,the bishops of which were sovereign princes.Too often they laid the crosier aside, and as- suming the sword, waged bloody warfare with their rivals, the prince-bishops of Liege.The university ofUtrechtwasformerlyhigh- ly celebrated, but the number of students is nowmuchdiminished. There is as little appear- ance of a university here, as at Leyden. The students have no academical dress, and their halls , which are used only for lectures and examinations, are formed of the cloisters of the ancient cathedral. The famous peace of Utrecht in 1713 was signed in one of the halls of the university.The town-house is a noble structure. Thenumber of inhabitants is 32,000. The prin- cipalmanufactures are woollen-cloths, bleach- ing, bricks, silk, and fire-arms. The environs are fullof gardens and pleasant walks, which,added to the purity ofthe air, make Utrecht a very agreeable place of residence.Pope Adrian VI. , the tutor of Charles V. ,was born here. Gronovius the critic, and Grævius, his pupil, resided at Utrecht.The best inns are the Old and New CastleUTRECHT TO GRONINGEN . 177of Antwerp ( Kasteel van Antwerpen) , and the Gilded Chariot ( Vergulde Wagen) .Diligences go every day to Arnheim, Amers- foort, Bois-le-Duc, Breda, Deventer, Gorcum,Leerdam, Nimeguen, Rhenen, Thiel, and Zut- phen. Vessels sail three times a day for Ams- terdam, Leyden, and Gouda, and twice a week for Bois-le-duc, Dort, the Hague, Haarlem,Middelbourg, Rotterdam, Schiedam, and Schoonhoven. Travellers should be careful toenter Utrecht before nine o'clock in the evening. The gates are then shut, and even a silver key will not always succeed in opening them again.SECT. XIV. Routefrom Utrecht toGroningen.Posts.UTRECHT to Amersfoort........ 2Amersfoort to Leuvenum ...... 4Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Leuvenum to Zwoll ....... 4Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Zwoll to Meppel.:4Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Meppel to Steenwik ........ 2Steenwik to Heerenveen ....... 3............Miles.122222.... 22.......1318178 AMERSFOORT.Heerenveen to Leeuwarden .... 3Leeuwarden to Dorkcum...... 3Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Dorkcum to Stroobos ......... 2Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Stroobos to Groningen ........ 3Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse .324........19194.... 12.... 161774Utrecht being in the centre of Holland is aconvenient place from which to conduct the traveller to those parts of the northern dis- tricts, which he has not yet seen . This routewill contain everything interestingin the pro- vinces of Utrecht, West Friesland, and Groningen.Three miles from Utrecht is the village of De Bilt, after which the road lies through acountry not well peopled as far as AMERSFOORT.The most remarkable places in Amersfoort are the port, the town-hall, and the principal market. Goods of German manufacture areusually shipped here for Amsterdam. It contains some woollen manufactories, bleach- ing grounds, and plantations of tobacco. Its manufactories of dimity and bombazeen are well known. The walks in the neighbourhood are exceedingly pleasant. The number of in- habitants is 8,600.LEUVENUM. -LOO . 179Amersfoort is built at the foot of a littleeminence watered by the Ems. It was the birth-place ofthe celebrated pensionary Barne- veldt; who, after having been chiefly instru- mental in rescuing his country from the Spa- nish yoke, and having faithfully and zealously served her 40 years, was beheaded at the age of 70, for this worthy cause, that he was an Arminian. Aninteresting anecdote is re- lated of his widow. His sons, René and Wil- liam, conspired to revevenge his death. The conspiracy being discovered, William fled,but René was taken and condemned to die.His mother solicited his pardon ofPrince Mau- rice. «It appears strange,» said he, «thatyou «do that for your son, which you refused to do «for yourhusband.» To this she noblyreplied,«I did not ask pardon for my husband, because «he was innocent. I ask it for my son because <<<he is guilty.»The chief inns are the White Swan (Witte Zwaan), the Golden Swan ( Goude Zwaan) ,and the Red Lion (Roode Leeuw). A boat leaves Amersfoort every day for Amsterdam.Acoach goes to Utrecht four times a week,and once a week to Zwoll.Hence to Leuvenum the road is sandy, and Heel and Kemmena are the only villages that lie near it.LEUVENUM, or, asit isbetterknownbythename ofLoo, is celebrated for its magnificent palace.Thegardens and fountains are muchadmired,particularly one called the Bath ofVenus.Half-way between Loo and Zwoll is the180 HATTEM.-ZWOLL .Thevillage of Heerden; and a few miles from Zwoll, on the left bank of the Yssel, is the town ofHATTEM. It contains 2,000 inhabitants.The church has been much admired.neighbouring country produces abundance of finecattle, and affords somebeautifulprospects.Much tobacco is cultivated near Hattem. Thechief inn is the Angel (Engel). A diligence starts every day for Elbourg and Arnheim;and a vessel once a week for Amsterdam.On the other side of the Yssel is ZWOLL, on an eminence on the river Aa, with a popula- tion of 12,000 souls. It is a strong and well- built town. In aconvent in the neighbourhood Thomas à Kempis lived 71 years, and died here . The church of St. Michaeldeserves theattention ofthe traveller. The carving ofthe pulpit is much admired. The principal inn is the Court of Holland (Hof van Holland).Adiligence goes daily to Deventer and Gro- ningen; and twice a day to Amelo and Amers- foort. Aboat goes every day to Amsterdam;and once a week to Enkhuysen, Haarlem, and Sneek.Fourteen miles E. OfZwoll is OMMEN, containing 700 inhabitants, and supported by its mills and linen manufactories .Half-way between Amersfoort and Loo, aroad branches offto the left, which, skirting the eastern coast of the Zuyder-Zee, passes through Harderwyk, and againjoins the direct road at Hattem. The country is here more pleasant, and the neighbourhood of the sea,with frequent interesting views of it, often in-HARDERWYK.-ELBURG . 181duces the traveller to prefer this route. It is a mile or two farther, and the road, though affording many fine prospects, is not verygood.Leaving the little port of Bernkamp to the left, and the village ofTelg on the right, and passing through Horst, the traveller arrives at HARDERWYK. It contains 3,600 inhabitants ,and a university. It carries on considerable trade in corn, wood, and fish. The church of Notre Dame is amagnificent structure. Its lofty tower serves as a sea-Mark. The ocean is rapidly encroaching on the neighbouring country, and appears to threaten Harderwyk with novery distant destruction. Some beauti- ful walks and fine prospects are in theneighbourhood, andthe town is said to abound with an unusual number ofladies of pleasure.Adiligence goes everyday to Loo, Deventer,and Zutphen; and twice a week to Arnheim- Avessel sails every evening for Amsterdam,The principal inns are the Arms of Zutphen (Wapen van Zutphen) and the Amsterdam Arms (Wapen van Amsterdam).Twelve miles north of Harderwyk is ELBURG,containing 1,800 inhabitants. It carries on aconsiderable fishery, and has some large de- coys for wild fowl. Avessel sails three times aweek for Amsterdam; and a diligence goes twice a week to Haarlem. The Hare ( Haas )is the principal inn.The country now becomes very interesting,and the villages of Hierde, Russel, Boomspyk,and Elbing rapidly follow each other, afterQ182 CAMPEN. GENEMUIDEN. MEPPEL.which the road branches to the E. and pro- ceeds to Hattem.Six miles beyond Zwoll, the road crosses the river Vecht, on the banks of which is HASSELT, containing 1,100 inhabitants. The church is a beautiful structure. The best innis the Shepherdess ( Herderin) . A passage- boat goes every day to Zwoll; to Enkhuysen and Kampen every Monday; and a vessel three times a week to Amsterdam.Eightmiles west ofHasselt is CAMPEN, former- ly a place of considerable consequence, and belonging to the Hanseatic league; but the port is now almost filled with sand. The principal inn is the Court of Holland. Apassage- boat goes twice a day to Zwoll, and avessel three times a week to Amsterdam.From Hasselt the traveller proceeds either in a boat on the Vecht, or by the road which runs close along the bank, to Zwartsluis, three miles to the s. w. of which, and on the other side of the river, is GENEMUIDEN, a small town on the Zuyder-Zee, with 1,00o inhabitants,and supported by the manufacture of nets.The principal inn is the Peacock ( Pauw).From Swartsluys there are two routes to Leeuwarden, one through Meppel and Steen- wyk, on which alone post-horses are to be procured, and amorecircuitous, but more in- terestingwaythrough Vollenhoven, and round the coast. I will describe them both .The post road, and likewise a canal branches off to the right to MEPPEL. This town con- tains 3,650 inhabitants. It is chiefly support-STEENWYK. -LEEUWARDEN. 183ed by a manufactory of canvass, and by agreat number of windmills. The principal inn is the Savage (Wildeman) .Between Meppel and Steenwyk nothing oc- curs deserving of notice. STEENWYK contains 1,800 inhabitants. The church ofSt. Clement is a handsome building. The place subsists by agriculture and breweries. Apassage-boat goes every week to Amsterdam, Blockzyl and Enkhuysen.Soon after leaving Steenwyk the province of East Friesland begins. The soil of Fries- land is in general very fertile, and much wheat is grown on the high grounds. The cowsandsheep are said to be unusually fruit- ful; the latter are shorn twice in the year,and the wool is much esteemed. The Frisiansare strongly attached to all their ancient usages and customs. The traveller will im- mediately perceive a difference in their dress and appearance, from those of the inhabitantsof the provinces which he has already visited.From Steenwyk to Leeuwarden the route lies through a fruitful and not unpleasantcountry, but noplace of consequence occurs.The two nearest villages to Leeuwarden are Warség and Goutum.LEEUWARDEN on the Ee, eighteen miles E. of Harlingen , has 16,000 inhabitants. It carries on an extensive trade owing to the canals which communicate with the sea. The Townhall is a noble modern edifice . The streetsare spacious , well-built and intersected by canals. The principal church is a venerable184 VOLLENHOVEN. -BLOCKZYL .structure; the ramparts afford a delightful promenade; and the situation of the town is extremely pleasant. The principal inns are,the Heerenlogement, the Vineyard(Wynberg)and the Falcon. Passage-boats set out four times a week for Bolswaert, Dokkum, Frane- ker, Harlingen, and Sneek; and once a week for Amsterdam, Enkhuysen, Groningen,Haar- lem, and Lemmer.I will now return to Zwartsluis. The traveller may embark here, and pursue the eastern coast of the Zuyder-Zee as far as Harlingen, where a canal will conduct him to Leeuwarden: or he may take the road which beautifully follows the windings ofthe coast.Seven miles from Zwartsluis is VOLLENHO- VEN, containing 1,000 inhabitants. Thecastle,which was frequently used as a prison, for- merly stood alone, but some houses were afterwards built near it; these by degrees increased to a little town, with a tolerable trade in grain, cattle, and fish. Many ruins are seen in the neighbourhood. The best inn is the School (School) . Vessels go every week to Amsterdam, Campen and Zwoll.Four miles to the N. is BLOCKZYL at themouth of the Aa. The port is capable of containing 200 vessels. The principal inn is the Tower of Groningen.Passing Kuynder and Lemmer, at a dis- tance of 20 miles is SLOOTEN , near a lake called Slootenmeer. The number of inhabitants is only 560. The environs are fertile, and the lake abounds with fish .STAVEREN.-MOLQUERN.-HINLOPEN, &c. 185Ten miles to the E. is STAVEREN. It wasonce a rich and populous city, and the resi- dence of the ancient kings of Friesland, but frequent inundations have destroyed the greater part of it, and choked up the harbour.It is yet however a considerable town. Pas- sage-boats go once or twice a week to Am- sterdam, Enkhuysen, Harlingen, Leeuwarden,Sneek, and Worcum. The City-Hotel (Stad- sherberg) is a good hotel.Three miles from Staveren is MOLQUERN.This little town, containing only 400 inhabit- ants, is very curiously built. The housesare all detached, and so irregularly placed,that a stranger finds himself in aperfect la- byrinth. The inhabitants trace their descent from the Saxons , and have a language pecu- liar to themselves .Six miles from Staveren is HINLOPEN orHindelopen, with 1,500 inhabitants, and abeautiful tower. It is principally supported by fishing. The best inns are the Swan (Zwaan), and the Gilt-Anchor ( Vergulde Anker). Adiligence sets out every day for Worcum and Staveren, and a vessel for Am- sterdam.Still following the coast of the Zuyder- Zee, the traveller arrives at WORCUM OF WOLDERCUM, containing 3,200 inhabitants. The neighbouring country is very fertile, and watered by numerous canals. The principal occupations are lime-burning and eel-fishing.A great quantity of eels are sent as far as England. The best inns are the ParadiseQ.186 SNEEK. BOLSWAERT. HARLINGEN.(Paradys), and the Prosperity of the Country (Lands Welvaren) . Aboat goes to Bolswaert four times a day, and to Amsterdam and Enkhuysen every day.Fifteen miles N. E. Of Workum is SNEEK orSNITZ , near a lake of the same name. It isvery ancient, and has considerable trade principally in beer. The surrounding country is very marshy. The best inns are the Three Frisians (Drie Friesen) and the Town Weights (Stads Waag). Vessels sail every day for Yslt, Bolswaert, and Franeker; and every week for Amsterdam, Groningen, Haarlem,and Hoorn .Three miles from Sneek is Ylst or Ilst , consisting of one street forming a semicircle.Twelve miles N. w. of Sneek is BOLSWAERT,with 2,700 inhabitants. It has some woollen manufactories and breweries. On the road toHarlingen are manylarge tile-kilns. Aboat sails every day for Leeuwarden, Sneek, and Worcum. The inns are the Doelen, the Three Crowns ( Drie Kroonen ), the Hart ( Hart ) ,and Fortune ( Fortuin) .Proceeding N. w. by the villages ofScheltens,Arum, and Kimswera, we again arrive at the Zuyder-Zee, on which, and fifteen miles from Bolswaert, is HARLINGEN, containing 7,500 in- habitants; and several flourishing manufacto- ries of canvass, paper, salt, and bricks. The harbour is sufficiently deep to contain vessels ofthe greatest burden, but the approach to it is difficult. The streets are neat, and inter- sected with canals. Its principal ornamentFRANEKER-. DOKKUM. 187is the college ofthe admiralty. Near the town is a monument, erected to the StadtholderRobles. The principal inns are, the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw) and the Heerenlogement.Apassage-boat goes to Franeker and Leeu- warden four times a day, and once a day to Amsterdam, Dokkum, and Sneek. Avessel sails once a week for Enkhuysen, Heerenveen,and West Friesland. Alarge canal proceeds from Harlingen through Franeker to Leeuw- arden.FRANEKER has a castle, and formerly pos- sessed a university. The public buildings are magnificent. Two large canals add to the importance of the place. It contains 3,900 inhabitants and is surrounded bypleasant vil- lages, in one of which, called Larkum, is the cabinet of natural history of the celebrated Peter Camper. Excellent mathematical and philosophical instruments are made here: but the principal employmentofthe inhabitants is the manufactoryof bricks. The inns are, the Sun ( Zon ) , the Dutch Garden ( Hollandsché Tuyn), the Falcon ( Valk ) , and the Stork.Boatsgo four times a day to Leeuwarden, once aday to Sneek, four times a week to Harlingen,and once a week to Amsterdam.Wewill now pursue our former route. Aroad goes across the country from Leeuwarden to Stroobos; but amore frequented road and thecanal go N. E. to Dokkum, leavingOudkerk on the right, and Steens and Gennaard on the left.Dokkum contains 2,700 inhabitants. The188 GRONINGEN.principal commerce is in beer, cheese, andbut- ter, which are much esteemed for their supe- rior flavour. Great quantities of salt are ma- nufactured here. The Stadt-house and thebridge over the canal will not escape the tra- veller's notice. Dokkum is a league and ahalf from the sea, with which it communicates by a canal.A passage-boat goes four times a day to Leeuwarden and Groningen; three times to Stroobos; twice to Collum; and once toHarlingen. The best inn is the Post Boy's Horn (Post-hoorn) . From Dokkum a canal goes along the edge of Groningen Deep, to a strong fort called Zoltcamp; but the canal or road which our traveller will probably pursue winds to the S. E. , and leaving the villages of Kobner- Zwaag and Lutkeport on the right, goes to Stroobos, and thence to Groningen, leaving the village of Leegkerk on the left a few miles w. ofGroningen. GRONINGEN, formerly one of the Hanseatic towns, is seated on the rivers Hunse and Aa,and contains 24,000 inhabitants. One of theuniversities of Holland is established here, butthe number of students seldom exceeds 100 .It has an interesting seminary for the instruc- tion of deaf and dumb persons. Groningen has many noble buildings of which the strong citadel, the town-hall, and the great church are most worthy of attention.The largest vessels ascend the river close to the town. The orientalist Schultens was aAPPINGEDAM. -DELFZYL. 189native of Groningen. Adiligence goes every day to Leeuwarden, and a passage-boat four times a day to Delfzyl, Dokkum, Stroobos,and Winchoten. Avessel goes four times aweek, and a diligence three times to Lemmer;and every Monday to Zwoll. A vessel sails twice a week for Amsterdam, Embden,Nieuwkerk, and Sneek. The inns are the Seven Provinces ( 7 Provincien), the Golden Crown (Goude-Kroon), the Amsterdam Arms ( Wapen van Amsterdam ), the Blue-Angel ( Blauwe Engel), and the Parliament ofEngland (Par- lement vanEngeland); but the best inn is theDoelen.FromGroningenthe road to Embden at the mouth of the Ems, and which now belongs to Hanover, passes by Appingedam and Delfzyl.Awide and deep canal, by which ships of considerable burden may ascend as high as Groningen, and which is called DamsterDiep,skirts the road .APPINGEDAM contains 1,600 inhabitants, has agood cattle market, and beautiful environs abounding with handsomecountry-seats.DELFZYL is a town with a strong fortress and good harbour, at the mouth of the Damster Diep. It contains only 800 inhabitants. The best inn is the Count of Holland ( Graafvan Holland) . Aboat goes twice a day to Gro- ningen; a packet every day to Embden; and a vessel once a week to Amsterdam.Another large canal proceeds byWinchoten toNieweschans. Half- way betweenGroningen and Winchothen is the village of Zuidbrock.190 GRONINGEN TO ARNHEIM .WINCHOTEN, a small but well-fortified town,contains 2,000 inhabitants. The first battle between the revolted Dutch and the Spa- niards took place here in 1568, in which the latter were defeated. It has very nu- merous mills . A boat goes to Groningen every day.Nieweschans is asmall port at the southern extremity of Dollart-bay.Hence for 30 miles, in a southern direction,extends the marshy heath of Bourtang, whose barren nature seems to have foiled even the persevering industry of the Dutch. I shall therefore return to Groningen, and thence pursueamorepleasingroute through Overyssel and Gelderland. Overyssel is the poorest of the Seven United Provinces. Out of every hundred ducats contributed by the States, its proportionwas only five, nor is it well-peopled in proportion to its extent. Gelderland con- tains much waste land, especially on the borders of Germany; but in other parts, and particularly in the neighbourhood of Nime- guen, the soil is very fertile.SECT. XIV. Route from Groningen to Arnheim.Posts. Miles.GRONINGEN to Assem.......... 4Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse..... 22ASSEN,Posts. Miles.Assen to Dievenbrug ......... 3 .... 16Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Dievenbrug to Meppel........ 3Extra charge for 3d and 4th horse.Meppel to Zwoll .......... ...Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.4Zwoll to Deventer ........... 4Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Deventer to Zutphen ...... 2Zutphen to Arnheim......... 4Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.24-.... 16.........2322.... II.... 22-132-On leaving Groningen, the canal and the road run at a small distance from the riverHunse. About seven miles from Groningen is Eelde, and eight miles beyond is Uries. Assen is seven miles from Uries.ASSEN contains only 600 inhabitants. Some stones of extraordinary magnitude, called Hunnėbedden, and several tumuli of the an- cient Germans, are to be seen near this town.FromAssen through Dievenbrug and Ruinen to Weppel, nothing remarkable occurs. One route fromMeppelto Zwoll has been already192 COEVORDEN. DEVENTER.described ( page 180, 181 ). Another road,though not so pleasant, lies through Staphorst ,Roveen , and Kranenberg.Twenty miles E. of Meppel is COEVORDEN, afortified town in a morass . It is supposed tobe the strongest placein Holland, and is called the key of the country, as it commands the pass out of Munster.From Zwoll a road branches off to the lefttowards Lingen. The country is pleasant as far as Hardemberg. The traveller may sail up the Vecht, or pursue the post-road which often touches the banks of the river in its numerous windings.Passing through Delsen, containing 700 in- habitants, and supportedby its mills and linen manufactories, the traveller arrives at HaR- DEMBERG, 24 miles from Zwoll. This place has only 650 inhabitants, and is full of windmills .From Zwollto Arnhein, followingthe course of the Yssel , the traveller will find it exceed- ingly pleasant whether he goes by land or water. Passing through Winsheim and Olst,the first place ofconsequence is DEVENTER. It was formerly a free imperial city, belonging to the Hanseatic league, and contains 8,300 inhabitants. The cathedral church is a venerable and noble structure. Deventer pos- sesses a college, but not to be compared with either Utrecht or Leyden. The learned Grono- viuswas a native of this place. The town is celebrated for its gingerbread and beer.The environs offered some pleasant walks, butOLDENZAAL . ENSCHEDE. 193they materially suffered in the campaigns of 1813 and 1814. The best inns are the FullMoon ( Volle Maan) and the Overyssel Arms (Wapen van Overyssel). A coach goes to Hamburgh every Tuesday and Saturday; and twice a week to Amersfoort, Arnheim, En- schede, Harderwyk, Naarden, Nimeguen,Utrecht, Zutphen, and Zwoll. A boat goes once aweek to Delft, Haarlem, the Hague,Leyden, and Rotterdam; three times a week to Amsterdam, and every day to Campen . From Deventer, a road goes through Lingen to Oldembourg. The first relay is at Hotten.The road then branches to the north, andpasses through Rysen to Almelo, which is the next relay. It contains 4,500 inhabitants, and subsists principally by the manufacture of linen. Abundance of flax is cultivated in theneighbourhood. The next stage is Ootmarsum, having 1,100 inhabitants; and supported likewise by linenmanufactories.A little beyond Nordhorn the road passes the frontiers .From Hotten another road branches offmore to the south to Osnabruck. The firststage is Delden, containing 1,100 inhabitants.Twickeloo is on the left. The road, four miles farther on, passes through Hengelo, three miles beyondwhich, onthe left, is OLDENZAAL,the Salia Vetus of the Romans, whence the modern name is derived. It contains 2,100 inhabitants, and is supported by its linen manufactories. Ten miles S. E. ofDelden isENSCHEDE, containing 1,800 inhabitants, and R194 ZUTPHEN.celebrated for its quarries. Adiligence goes twice a week to Deventer.Eight miles s. w. of Delden is Goor, con- taining 1,000 inhabitants, and subsisting chiefly by the carriage of goods.Twenty-four miles from Delden isBentheim,and ten miles farther on is Maxhaven near thefrontiers.Returning to Deventer we again pursue the course of the Yssel, passing by Gorssel and Wansfeldo , close to which is ZUTPHEN orZUPHEN, at the conflux of the Berkel with the Yssel, andformerly afreeimperial townbelong.ing to the Hanseatic league. It is situated in the midst of drained fens, yet the air is sup- posed to be wholesome, and the town contains 7,000 inhabitants. Here the gallant Sir Philip Sidney was mortally wounded in 1586. The principal church is very ancient and magnifi- cent. The other buildings worthy of notice are the Town-hall, the College of Deputies ,thepalace called Graven-hof, and the Bridge.In 1572, Zutphen was attacked by Toledo,the son of the Duke of Alva. After a shortresistance, the garrison, and all the inhabitants who had favoured the patriotic party retired from the town, leaving those only who were attached to the cause ofSpain. Although To- ledowas fully informed of this , hedeliveredthe place to all the horrors of a storm. His troops spread themselves through the town, and put to the sword all who fell in their way, without distinction of age or sex: and whenthey were tired of this kind of slaughter, they threwLOCHEM. -BERKELOT. DOESBURG . 195hundreds into the Yssel, indulging themselves in the savage joy of seeing their unhappy victims perish in the stream.The principal inns are the Imperial Crown (Keyser's Kroon), the Overyssel Arms (Wapen van Overyssel), the Boar's Head, and the Savage (Wildeman) . A diligence goes every day to Deventer and Harderwyk; four times a week to Arnheim; twice to DeutichemandDoesburg: andonce to Emmerik andGrol.From Zutphen a road branches off to the E. towards Munster. Passing through Velde we arrive at Lochem on the Berkel, twelve miles from Zutphen. It has 1,350 inhabitants,and subsists by agriculture. Near Lochem is amountain called Lochemshe-berg, which is said to contain a vein of silver.Ten miles beyond Lochem , and likewise on the Berkel, is BORKELO or Berkelot, con- taininggooinhabitants. It has no commerce,but is remarkable for some beautiful ruins.Leaving Bloishuis, Old Eibergen, and Eiber- gen, on the left, we pass Hupzel two miles on the right, andGrol three or four miles more on the right and not far froin the frontiers.Grol or Groenlo is a strong town, containing 1,500 inhabitants.Returning to Zutphen, the road passes through Brummen, Spankerken, Dieren, and Velp, to Arnheim; but ifwe pursue the course ofthe Yssel , we find Bronkhorst, Kelbergen ,and Luer; after which is DOESBURG , a small , but strong, rich, and well-peopled town , atthe confluence of the Old and New Yssel.196 ARNHEIM .The environs of Doesburg produce much to- bacco. The best inns are the Heerenlogement and the Pelican ( Pelikaan ) . Still following the river, wepassBingaarden ,Gysbeck , and Baar and then arrive at the point wherethe Yssel separates fromthe Rhine.Opposite to this is Huessan.Two miles lower down the Rhine is ARN- HEIM. It is beautifully situated at the footof the hills of Veluwe, and contains 10,000 inhabitants, The entrances, called St. Jan's Poort and Sabel's Poort, are very picturesque,andthe ramparts form adelightfulpromenade.The church of St. Eusebius contains nu- merous tombs of the Counts of Guelderland,some of which are interesting from their anti- quity and their pleasing execution. The constant passage of travellers to Germany renders this town agreeable and lively; and the neighbourhood abounds with gentlemen's country -seats. The most elegant of these are Beckhuizen, Billion, Middagten, Klarenbeck,and Roozendaal .This towngavebirth to the celebratedpainter David Beck. The following singular event is recorded ofhim. He was taken violently ill , and in a few minutes apparently expired.As his valets watched his corpse during the night, lamenting the loss ofso good a master,they sought consolation in the bottle; and having succeeded in drowning their grief and their senses, one of them exclaimed Ourpoor master used to be fond of his glass when alive, suppose we give him a bumper now"ARNHEIMм. 197he is dead. >> No sooner said than done. Thehead of the corpse was raised, and some of the wine poured down the dead man's throat.Beck slowly opened his eyes; but the intoxica- tion of the servants was so complete that this did not surprise them. They persisted in compelling him to swallow the whole bumper according to the rules of good drinking: but ere they had accomplished it, he burst from their hold, and was restored to perfect health.The unfortunate painter, however, escaped death in this horrible shape, to meet it in another more dreadful. He was soon afterwards poisoned at the instigation of Queen Christina, whose court he had determinedto quit.The principal inns are the Sun (Zon) , the Peacock (Pauw), theWhite Eagle, theHerring ,the Boar's Head, and the Golden Plough .Stages set out for Amsterdam every day, price five francs: Deutichem twice a week, fare cighteen sous; Deventer, Doesburg, andHard- erwyk, twice a week; Cleves, Cologne, and Frankfort, three times a week, price thirty- two francs ten sous; Nimeguen twice a day ,price eighteen sous; Utrecht every day, price two francs sixteen sous; Zevener, Elten,Emmerik , and Wezel, twice a week , pricethree francs; and Zutphen, four times a week ,price one franc ten sous.Lichtenvoordwith its castle,Brevoortastrong town with a castle in a morass, Deutekom ,and Heerenberg, are towns in the s. E. ofR.198 WAGENINGEN.-RHENEN.Guelderland,whichcontainnothingsufficiently remarkable to be recorded..SECT. XV. Voyage down the Rhine and Leckfrom Arnheim to Rotterdam.BEFORE it enters the Netherlands, the Rhine loses much of its characteristic grandeur and beauty, and in some places degenerates into aimere Dutch river; yet it retains sufficient in- terest to render this excursion pleasing, and even where the beauties of nature cease toattract, the traveller will admire the stupend- ous efforts of human skill and industry.The first town whichhe will pass is WAGENIN- GEN, about fourteen miles from Arnheim, on the right bank of the river. Its chief trade is in beer, cattle, and tobacco, and it has 2,600 inhabitants. The garden of Roozendaal is one of the finest in the province. The Prosperity of Gelderland ( Geldersch Welvaren) and theWhite Swan are good inns. Diligences go every day to Arnheim and Utrecht,Five miles lower on the same bank is RHENEN, a small but ancient town mentioned by Tacitus under the name of Grinnes, and containing 1,600 inhabitants. It is surrounded by beautiful walks, and from the hill of Hememberg is a noble prospect. The best inn is the King of Bohemia ( Koning van Boheme) . Adiligence goes everyTuesday and Friday to Utrecht; and a vessel every week to Amsterdam,CULENBOURG . -NIANEN. 199We soon pass Linden, and afterwards Wiel on the left bank, opposite to which last village and five miles from Rhenen is Amerongen,containing a post-house. Five miles lower than this, after passing Eck on the left bank,and at the point where the Leck branches off from the Rhine , is Wyk de Duerstede, on the right bank, containing 1,500 inhabitants. It is supposed to be the ancient Batavodurum.Sailing by Ravensway and Beusekom, both on the left bank of the river, we arrive at CULENBOURG or KUILENBOURG on the same bank ,and tenmiles from Wyk . This is a pretty and well-built town, with 3,000 inhabitants.It used to be a sanctuary for debtors. No debtor after having sought refuge in Culen- bourg could be proceeded against without the consent of the magistrate of the place, and his protection was easily purchased, unless he happened to be more highly bribed by the other party. It has a large manufactory of arms. The best inns are the Golden Head(Vergulde Hooft) and the Lion ( Leeuw) .Vessels sail once a week for Amsterdam, Delft ,the Hague, Rotterdam, Thiel , Utrecht, and Wyk.No place of consequence now occurs until we arrive at NIANEN, on the same bank, ten miles from Culenbourg, and containing 1,800 inhabitants. The ancient and ruined castledeserves notice for the beauty of the scenery.Vianen principally subsists by the cultivation of flax and apples. The Rose (Roos) is an excellent hotel . Diligences and boats go every200 LEERDAM. -YSSELSTEIN. MONTFOORT.day to Gorcum and Utrecht; and once aweek to Ainsterdam, Dort, the Hague, Leerdamand Rotterdam.Ten miles s. of Vianen is LEERDAM, or LIER- DAM. Cornelius Jansenius, the founder of thesect ofthe Jansenists, was bornin theneighbour- hood. Near the town are some ancient andpicturesque ruins. It contains 2,000 inhabit- ants. Diligences and vessels go everyday to Utrecht; and every week to Delft, Dort, the Hague, and Rotterdam.Alittle beyond Vianen another large stream called the Yssel diverges to the north, and forming a circuit by Ysselstein, Montfoort ,Oudenwater, and Gouda, unites itself again to the Leck, a few miles to the east of Rotterdam.YSSELSTEIN contains 2,500 inhabitants . It has a castle and abeautiful mall. It is memorable for the siege which it sustained in 1297, and for the honourable terms which the wife of Gysbrecht, the governor of the city, obtained, who defended it with only sixteen men. The best inns are the ChevalierSt. George (Ridder St. Joris) and the Salinon (Salm).MONTFOORT contains 1,300 inhabitants, andhas an old castle. Its chief manufactory is rope. The Golden Head (Vergulde Hooft) is the best inn. A boat goes every week to Amsterdam, Gouda , and Utrecht.Oudenwater and Gouda have already been described (pag. 164) .Passingby Lexmont on the left bank, where is the first post-house between Utrecht andNIEWPORT. SCHOONHOVEN. DORT. 201Brussels , and soon afterwards Jaarsveld onthe right, we reach NIEWPORT, sixteen milesfrom Vianen on the left bank ofthe river. Ithas 4,000 inhabitants, and subsists by fishing and agriculture.Onemile lower, and on the opposite bank,is SCHOONHOVEN, containing 2,500 inhabitants .Its name, which signifies the beautiful port, is derived from the delightful gardens and mea- dows that surround it. Its principal traffic is in salmon, hemp, and plated goods. Avessel sails three times a week forGouda; once a weekfor Amsterdam, Delft, Dort, Gorcum, the Hague, Leyden, andUtrecht; andalmost every hour forRotterdam. The best inns are the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw), and the Salmon (Salm) .Passing Koer-Aatsberg on the right , Stroef- kirk, and Nieuw-Lokkerland on the left , and thenKrimssen on the right , the city of Rot- terdam , crowded with shipping , once more appears twenty miles from Schoonhoven.SECT. XVI. Voyage up the Waalfrom Rotterdam to Nimeguen.HAVINGwitnessed the pleasing scenery of the northern branches of the Rhine, the traveller will not perhaps object to re-imbark, and sail up theWaall, whichis the southern branch of the same river united to the Meuse. He willfindmuch to interest and delight him , andthis voyagewill complete our Itinerary of the Nor202 DORT OR DORDRECHT.thern Provinces. The tourist will retrace hisformer route to the junction of one branch of the Meuse with the Leck, and sailing up the Meusewill pass AlblasserdamandPapendrecht,opposite to which is DORT or DORDRECHT, on an island formedby the Meuse, twelve miles S. E. of Rotterdam.This island was torn from the opposite shore in 1421 by an irruption of the rivers , which broke down the dykes , and destroyed seventy- two villages, and 100,000 persons. Dortis one ofthe most ancient cities in Holland , and was formerly the capital of the province. It is said tohave been foundedby Merovius. The famous Protestant synod was held here in 1618 and 1619, which condemnedthetenets ofArminius.Thetown-hall and greatchurch are magnificent structures. The latter is 300 feet in length ,and 125 feet wide. The mint of South Holland is established here, and a Military School,supportedby Government, for the education ofofficersofthe army.The natural situation of Dort is so strong ,that although frequently besieged, it has never beentaken. The harbour is excellent. Theprin- cipal trade is in corn, wine, particularly Rhe- nish wine, and wood.Vastfloats of timber arrive here from Andernach and other places on the Rhine. The length ofthe rafts are from 700 to 1,000 feet, and the breadth from 50 to go: 500 labourers direct the floating island , which is covered with avillage oftimber huts for their habitation. TheGORCUM.-WORCUM. 203sale of one raft frequently produces more than 30,000l.Dort contains about 18,000 inhabitants. The learned Vossius, and the celebrated De Witt,were natives of this town, The Bellevue, on the bank of the river, is an excellent inn, and well deserves its name, for the view is both extensive and beautiful . The American Arms(WapenvanAmerica), and the Falcon ( Valk),are comfortable inns. Avessel sails every day for Rotterdam.On another island to the w. formed likewiseby the branches of the Meuse , are the small hamlets and post-houses of Prinsenpoldar and Stryensaas .Proceeding up the Maes or Waal, by Sley- drecht and Hardinveld , we arrive at GORNICHEM or GORCUM, at the junction ofthe Linghe with the Waal , eighteenmiles E. ofDort. It has con- siderable trade in butter, cheese, corn, and fish ,andcontains5,000inhabitants. The horses bredin this neighbourhood are much esteemed.From the top of the principal church no less than twenty-two walled towns may be seen,besides numerous villages. Erpenias the cele- brated orientalist, was born at Gorcum. The Doelen, formerlya house ofsome consequence,is now converted into a comfortable inn; theother inns are the Sun ( Zon ) and the Load of Hay ( Hoog - wagen ). Adiligence goes every daytoBredaand Vianen; andaboat four times a week to Vianen; and four times a day to Rot- terdam. Ashipsails three times a week for Dort and Rotterdam; and once aweek for Delft,204 LOEVESTΕΙΝ . -BOMMEL.Gouda, the Hague, Bois-le-duc, Leyden,Middelbourg, Nimeguen, Schoonhoven, and Thiel.Opposite to Gorcum is WOUDRICHEM or WORCUM, containing only 670 inhabitants .The neighbouring country was laid waste by aninundation in 1740. Aboat goes four times a day to Gorcum and Rotterdam.A little above Gorcum the Vaal separates into two branches, which enclose the island of Bommel or Bommelwaert, fifteen miles long,and varying from one to four miles in breadth.Atthe west end of the island is LOEVESTEIN.The patriotic chiefs were imprisoned in this castle by Prince Maurice, whence that party has since been called the Loevestein faction.Grotius, after three years'imprisonment here,was conveyed away by astratagem of his wife,in a box used for carrying books .BOMMEL is the principal town of the island.It isnearly impregnable, andcontains 2,900 inhabitants, The chief support of the place is agriculture, but the neighbouring country is much exposed to inundations . Its commercehas rapidly declined since a large bank ofsandhas gradually accumulated here, and almost reaches the walls of the town. The best inn isthe Court ofGelderland (Hof- van-Gelderland).Acoach goes every dayto Utrecht and Bois- le-duc; and a boat to Gornicum, Loevestein,Dort, and Rotterdam.The traveller ascends the northern stream,passing Loevestein , and Brakel on his right,thenKelluw, Hoasten, andThuel (where is theTHIEL-. BUREN. -NIMEGUEN. 205post-house; ) Waardenburg and Op-ynen on his left; Bommel and Herwynen then follow on the right, then Varik on his left , Dreumel on the right, and Zenewynen on the left; when he arrives at Thiel , likewise on the left bank .THIEL is a pleasant town, with 3,000 inha- bitants, and is surrounded by a most beautiful and luxuriant country. It was unsuccessfully besieged by the Emperor Charles V. in the beginning ofthe 16th century. The navigation of the Meuse is the principal employment of its inhabitants. Thebest inn is theGolden Lion( Goude Leeuw. ). Adiligence goes four times a week to Utrecht , and vessels every day to Bommel , Dort , Gorcum , Nimeguen , andUtrecht.Tenmiles N. w. ofThiel is BUREN, a pleasant town with a fortified castle. It contains 3,500inhabitants. The beautiful marble fountainshould not be overlooked. The best inn is theThree Kings (Drie Koningen) .Proceedingfrom Thiel , Wamel , Leeuwen ,and Druten, occur on the right; then Hein,Loenen, and Oosterhout, on the left, and Hees on the right; when the traveller arrives at Nimeguen, which he enters over a bridge ofacurious construction , consisting of two flying or swing-bridges, anda fixed one in the centre.On this bridge are some small cannon, that are fired when any illustrious visitor crosses it,or, indeed, any person who has vanity or whim sufficient to inducehimto pay the guard the stipulated compliment.NIMEGUEN, NIEUMEGE, or NIMWEGEN, is anS206 NIMEGUEN.ancient, rich, strong, and well-peopled town,with 13,000 inhabitants. It was called by the Romans, Noviomagum, and is the capital of Gelderland. It has an abruptbut short elevation from the river. The streets are narrow and thewindows of one range of houses overlook the chimneys of another. The churches are well worth the traveller's attention, and the Town- hall , possessing some beautiful specimens of antiquity, is equal to any in theLow Countries.The castle called Valkenhof is said to havebeen built by the Emperor Charlemagne. The view from the Belvidere or Prospect-house is wonderfully fine, extendingfromArnheim and Duisburg in the north, to Cleves and Geldres in the south , and towards the east over half the forests ofGelderland to those of Westphalia.The celebrated treaty of peace in 1678 was concluded here, and the portraits of the res- pective ambassadors are shewn in the Town- hall. The swords with which counts Egmont and Hoorn were beheaded are likewise pre- served here.The ale of Nimeguen is in request through all Holland.Thegreaterpartofthediligences forBrabant,France, Cologne , Franckfort , and Maestricht pass through Nimeguen. Adiligencestarts for Amsterdam every day; for Utrecht four times in the week; for Cleves three times a week;Cologne twice a week; and Breda , Bois-le-duc,and Venlo, once a week. Vessels sail every week for Amsterdam, Dort, Gorcum, Gouda,theHague, Leyden, and Rotterdam.SCHENK. 207

    • Thebest inns are the Royal Hotel , the White Swan , and the Red Hart.

Thirteenmiles higher up the river where the Rhine divides into two branches is SCHENK. Itperfectly commands the passage of both branches; and is of great importance as the centre ofcommunication between Holland andGermany.SECT. XVII. Routefrom Nimeguen toBrussels .IWILLnow turn southward, and after visiting the few places which remain on the south of the Waal, will conduct the traveller by the most pleasing routes through the beautiful and highly-cultivated provinces of Belgium.The country, except in Luxemburg, and on the banks of the Meuse, is too level to afford those grand and romantic prospects which the tourist delights to contemplate and de- scribe, but the inimitable cultivation of theland, and the garden- like appearance of the country, cannot fail to delight,Nimeguen to Grave .. ........Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Grave to Heesel ...Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Posts.2Miles..... II2 .... If108 GRAVE.Posts.Heesel to Bois-le- Duc ........ 2Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Bois-le-Duc to Tilburg ...... 4Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Tilburg to Breda ............. 4Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorse.Breda to Grotzundert ......... 2Extra charge for 3d and 4thhorseGrotzundert to Gooring ...... 1Gooring to Antwerp.... 2Antwerp to Mechlin ..........Mechlin to Vilvorde .Vilvorde to Brussels ....................4424I251-Miles..... 11........2222.... II....................94121548471404-The road from Nimeguen passes through Halert and Neer-Asselt to the Meuse, whichit crosses a little to the north of GRAVE. Thissmall town contains about 1,600 inhabitants . One of the gates ( Ham-poorte) is unusually grand. The best inn is the Golden Lion (Goude Leeuw) .Eight miles w.s.w. of Nimeguen is Rave- stein, with an ancient castle.BOIS-LE-DUC .

209The road now proceeds through Heesel and Op-Zeland to Bois-le-duc; but little occurs worthy of notice.Agreat part of Dutch Brabant consists of barren heaths, and deep and sterile sands. Avery small portion of it is capable of bearing wheat, but it produces abundance of good rye and buck-wheat. The sheep are small, yet much esteemed, and the game is plentiful.The sterility of the soilseems to have affect- ed the character of the inhabitants. In nopart of Holland, except in the great cities ,do we find much polish, though much more civility than many tourists are willing to acknowledge: but the lower orders in Brabant are peculiarly uncultivated, and this district is said to furnish more thieves and recruitsfor the army than any other.BOIS-LE-DUC on the Dommel, at its con- fluence with the Aa, contains 12,000 inhabit- ants. It derives its name from being situated in a wood in which the Dukes of Brabantused to hunt. It is so surrounded by water,that in winter the whole of the neighbouring country is inundated, and the place can only be approached in a boat. The town is in- tersected by canals, over which are no less than eighty bridges. The church ofSt. John,the Governor's house, and the Town-hall ,are handsome buildings. It is considered to be nearly impregnable. The chiefmanufactories are of knives, pins, linen, and hardware.The best inn is the Savage ( Wildeman). Coaches go every day to Antwerp, Breda, S.210 EYNDHOVEN. HELMONT. CREVECOEUR , &c.Grave, Nimeguen, Tilbourg, and Turnhout;and boats to Amsterdam, Delft, Gouda, Haar- lem, the Hague, Leyden, Middelbourg, Ni- meguen, Schyedam, and Thiel, once a week;and to Dort, Gorcum, and Rotterdam, three times a week.Before we proceed in our route we must turn to the s . and mentionEYNDHOVEN, twenty- two miles from Bois-le-duc, containing 2,000 inhabitants , and which was once the capital of the province. Its principal manufactory is linen. HELMONT at the same distance s.E.with 2,500 inhabitants, and a castle well worthy of notice: LIEMPD, twelve miles s. of Bois-le-duc; OIRSCHET, sixteen miles sw.; HILVARENBECK, twenty-four miles s.w.; and EERSELS, thirty miles s.Ten miles N. of Bois- le-duc is CREVECOEUR ,astrong fortress at the conflux of the Dommelwith the Meuse. It is said to have derivedits name from an exclamation of Louis XIV,when a chosen company of French grena- diers refused to advance to the attack of theplace.Returning to Bois-le-duc, the road proceeds by Isabella, Vugt, Zwynsbergen, Udenhout,and Berkel, to THUILBERG , or Tilburg, con- taining 8,600 inhabitants. It subsists by agriculture and excellent linen manufactories.The best inns are the Castle of Antwerp (Kas- teelvan Antwerpen) and the Court ofHolland (Hofvan Holland). Diligences go every week to Antwerp, Breda, Bois-le-duc, Maestricht,and Waalwyk.BREDA. 211From Tilburg the road passes through Ryen to Breda.BREDA is a well-built fortified city on the Merk. having about 8,000 inhabitants. The great church is a noble structure with a lofty spire 360 feet high, and contains the splendid tomb of Engelbert, Count of Nassau. The new palace, surrounded by the waters of the Merk, deserves notice. Bredahas four squares,and a beautiful quay bordered with trees .The town and surrounding country are very pleasant and much frequented by strangers.The walks towards Haagje and Ginniken are particularly admired. The salmon takenhere is excellent, and the poultry much esteem- ed. The breweries supply the neighbouringcountry.Prince Maurice of Nassau took it in 1590by the following stratagem. Avessel was loaded apparently with turf, but the turf was sup- ported by planks at the distance ofseveral feet fromthebottom, and under the plauks seventy chosen soldiers were concealed. Although they had not many miles to sail, several days passedbefore they could reach Breda; and the vessel striking upon a rock sprung a leak,through which the waves poured in so fast,that the soldiers were above their knees inwater. Their provisions were likewise almost spent, and they wouldhave mutinied and aban- doned the enterprise in despair, had thev not been animated by the heroic conduct of their commander, who swore that if they all for- sook him, he would alone proceed to Breda,212 BREDA.and complete the affair with which he was intrusted, or perish. Heaven seemed to in- terpose to second and to reward his courage,for the soldiers had scarcely expressed their determination to conquer, or to die with him,than the leak, by some unknown cause, sud- denly stopped.As the vessel passed the gates of Breda, one of the soldiers was seized with a violent fit ofcoughing. The danger was imminent. The least noise would betray them, and consign them to inevitable destruction. The noblefellow, as he struggled against the irresistible impulse to cough, bared his bosom, and by signs , implored his comrades to despatch him .They turned with horror from the proposal ,resolving, if they must be discovered, to sell their lives dearly, rather than imbrue their hands in the blood oftheir companion. The soldier soon succeeded in repressing his cough,and the vessel proceeded towards the citadel unsuspected.The master of the vessel then expressed awish to sell his turf. The garrison being des- titute of fuel immediately purchased it, and so many hands were set to work in unloadingtheboat, that itwould have been accomplished long before night, and the stratagem discovered.Themaster, with great presence ofmind, now pretended that he was so fatigued with labour and watching, that he could no longer super- intend their work. He then began to amuse them with various discourse, invited them toTURNHOUT. 213drink, and the evening found them all intoxi- cated or asleep.Atmidnight the soldiers ofthe States issued from their concealment, overwhelmed the un- suspecting guard, and opened the gates of the town to Prince Maurice, who had advanced with the greater part of his army.Charles II . resided at Breda, when he was,invited to return to England, after the deatlı of Cromwell.The best inns are the Golden Lion ( GoudeLeeuw), the Prince Cardinal, the Flanders Hotel , the Stag, and the Crown.Coaches go every day to Antwerp, Utrecht,Amsterdam, andRotterdam. The distance to Amsterdam is more than sixty miles, which the diligence performs in a day. Rotterdam is but thirty miles, yet the roads are so exe- crable that the journey occupies the whole of the day. The diligence arrives at Antwerp early in the afternoon, whence travellers may proceed to Ghent or Brussels onthe same evening.Coaches go four times a day to Bois-le-Duc andTilbourg; and twice a week to Bergen-op- Zoom and Roosendaal. A boat goes once aweek to Amsterdam, Delft, Dort, Gouda, and Rotterdam .Eighteen miles s. E. of Breda is TURNHOUT,where Prince Maurice, in 1596, with only 800 cavalry, defeated the Spaniards, consistingof6,000 horse.We must, for the last time, diverge to the N. and the E. and mention two or three towns214 OOSTERHOUT.-HEUSDEN , &c.whichwill complete our tour throughHolland.Fourteen miles N. E. of Breda is OOSTERHOUT ,with 5,400 inhabitants, and subsisting princi- pally by agriculture.Ten miles N. w. of Bois-le-Duc is HEUSDEN.It is considered to be almost impregnable;but is much subject to inundations. In 1680 the magazine, containing 70,000 lbs. of gun- powder, blew up, and destroyed the greater partofthetown. It contains 1,600 inhabitants .The principal inns are the Court of Holland(Hofvan Holland) and the Amsterdam Arms(Wapen van Amsterdam).Eleven miles N. of Breda is GERTRUYDENBERG on the lake Biebosch. It is a strong place, built inthe form of a half- moon. Several sluices are here by which the neighbouring countrycanbe inundated. The principal em- ployment is fishing, and the lake affordsgood salmon and sturgeon.Coasting along the lake Lage-Zwaluw, we arrive at MOERDYK, and that part of the Meuse called the Butterfliet. Here is the town andfortress of WILLIAMSTADT, eighteen miles w. N. w. of Breda, and containing 1,300 inhabitants.It is a fortified sea-port, defended by a single wall and fossé, with a good harbour, and con- sidered to be one of the keys of Holland. Its form is almost circular, and the streets are close and narrow. The surrounding countryis marshy and unhealthy. It derives its name from William I , Prince ofOrange who built it. The inns are the Prince, and the TownofDort.WILLIAMSTADT.-STEENBERGEN, &c. 215It was unsuccessfully besieged by the French under General Dumourier, and on many of the houses are seen the marks of the cannonballs . The inhabitants consider every in- dentation as a memorial of their courage and loyalty, and carefully preserve them from being obliterated. Coasting along the Kramer, we next find STEENBERGEN, seven miles N. of Bergen-op- Zoom, containing 3,700 inhabitants. It was formerly a strong place with a good harbour,and much valued as securing the command of the neighbouring country; but the sea has retired from it nearly three miles which, with the calamities it has suffered from war, has reduced it to an inconsiderable town. Thefortifications , however, are maintained with some care and asmall garrison is constantly placedhere.Opposite to the sands of Beveland is BERGEN- OP-ZOOM, 24 miles N. of Antwerp. It is situated on the river Zoom, communicating with the Scheldtby a canal, and almost surrounded by marshes. It has often been besieged, and was taken by the French in 1747 and 1794. Its fortifications are the chef-d'œuvre of the ce lebrated engineer Coehorn. It contains five large squares, and 4,700 inhabitants; but the streets are narrow and dark, and the housesare meanly and uncouthly built.The church of St. Gertrude deserves notice,and likewise the tower which rocks with theleast breath of wind . The innsare the Helmet(Helm), the three Horse-shoes (Drie Hoof-216 ANTWERP.Yzer), and the Swan ( Zwaan) . A coach goes to Breda every second day, and a boat to Dort every day; to Middelbourg every se cond day; and to Rotterdam twice a week.We now return to Breda, and passing through Hage, Grotzundert, Westwezel, and Gooring, the road offering nothing particular,we arrive at ANVERS, or ANTWERP.This ancient city is esteemed the capital of Dutch Brabant. It stands on the Scheldt, and was once the chief mart of Flemish and Enropeancommerce. In 1568, it contained 200,000 inhabitants, but when the northern provinces threw off the Spanish yoke, they obtained possession of the mouth ofthe Scheldt, blocked uptheentrance to the harbour, fatallycrippled the commerce of Antwerp, and transferred the greater part of it to Amsterdam. The city now contains 56,000 inhabitants .The arms ofAntwerp consist ofa castle with two hands, and in several parts of the city are rude sculptures of a man grasping the hand of a giant. Some antiquaries explain this by avery curious legend. They tell us, that on thespot onwhich Antwerp is built, once stood the castle of agiant, who held the neighbour- ing country in thraldom, and cutting off the righthand ofall who fellinto his power, threw it into the sea. At length, a Roman, named Salvius Brabon, (from whom it is said thatBrabant derived its name,) conquered this monster, inflicted on him the lex talionis, and threw his immense hand into the ocean. Thecastle of the giant was destroyed, and a townANTWERP . 217built on its site called Handwerpen, or Hand- thrown. This in process of time was abbre- viated to Antwerp.As the traveller approaches Antwerp, he will be surprised at the numberless hotels ,gardens, and pleasure-houses which present themselves in endless succession . These establishments , far too numerous for the present wants of the city, owe their origin to that brilliant period whenAntwerp was the depôt of the commerce of the world. The merchantsof Antwerp were every where known, when the Batavians were scarcely heard of, even as fishermen; and while the Hollanders lived in wooden huts, they erected the most splendid palaces.The numerous stately buildings in the old Gothic style which the city yet contains, tes- tify its former grandeur. The fortunes that were accumulated by many of the merchant's ofAntwerp exceed all credibility. Charles V. condescended to dine with one of the princi- palmagistrates. After the repast, the citizen threw into the fire a bill of 2,000,000 ducats,which he had lent the monarch, exclaiming,that he was more than repaid by the honour that Charles had then done him.Regnard, in his voyage to Flanders in 1681 ,says of Antwerp, «It surpasses every city which I have seen, with theexception ofNaples,Rome, and Venice, in the magnificence of its houses, the grandeur of its churches, and the spaciousness of its noble streets . >>> The streetcalled Plave de Mer is truly unrivalled in itsT218 ANTWERP.extraordinary breadth; its great length, the sumptuousness of its houses, and the splendour ofevery thing in its neighbourhood.The general appearance of thecity is, how- ever, much injured by the strange intermix- ture ofmagnificent palaces with the dwellings ofthe lowest classes ofsociety. The nobleman and the mechanic not only inhabit the same street, but even the very adjoining houses.However this might accord with the levelling system of revolutionary times, it is offensive to the eye, and destroys the beauty of the place. 'The traveller will likewise complain that even the noblest edifices are destitute of that sunkenarea, which, hindering the too near approach ofthe passenger, adds so much to the grandeur of the building; and that the want of a foot- pavement not only exposes the pedestriau to continual inconvenience and danger, but en- cases the lower story of the most sumptuous palace, with an unsightly covering ofmud.The city is in the form of a semicircle,and about seven miles in circumference. TheScheldt is here 20 feet deep at low water, and vessels anchor close to the quays. The tide rises to the unusual height of ten or twelve feet, and at new and full moon tonearly eighteen feet. At high water the river is navigable for ships of war many miles above the town.The docks were the largest and most com- plete in Europe. One of the basins would contain forty sail of the line. They were orly destroyed by a late expedition of theANTWERP. 219English, but are rapidly re-constructing in all their original magnificence. The arsenal and all the public works are on the grandest scale.The harbour is sufficiently spacious to ac- commodate 2,000 ships , and is divided into four canals, lined with extensive quays, ware- houses, and magazines. The cominerce of Antwerpis said to have considerably increased within a few years; indeed, the harbour will at all times be found to contain numerousforeign vessels, and the canals that run from it , are filled with smaller craft from thetowns in the interior.Near the principal basin is an immense ware- house called the Oosterling. It forms a square,each side of which is 230 feet. The middlestory was designed for the residence of mer- chants, but it is now little used for that purpose.The citadel , constructed according to theold style of fortification, is extremely formi- dable. The veteran Carnot was appointed Governor of Antwerp by Napoleon, and all the resources of art were exhausted by him in contributing to the strength of the place.Numerous subterranean canals formerlypassed under the streets. They were mostly excavated at the expense of individuals, and destined to convey to the magazines of the merchants in small boats, the goods which had been brought into the city through the open canals in larger vessels. They are now used for the purposes of sewers .The cathedral is one of the noblest Gothic220 ANTWERP.structures on the continent. It is 500 feetlong, 230 wide, and 360 high. It was begun in 1422, under the superintendence of Ame- lius, one ofthe most celebrated architects of his time, and was completed in 1518, occupy- ing a period of 96 years.The large and magnificent nave is un- equalled in the Low-Countries. It is destitute of many of those glittering and false orna- ments that crowd most other buildings, and exhibits a specimen of simple and awful grandeur.The beautiful spire is one of the first ob- jects which greets the eye of the stranger on his approach to the city, and well it merits its pre-eminent claim to admiration being, for magnificence, workmanship and lightness of structure perhaps the most admirable speci- men of architecture that can be seen in Europe: its top at an elevation of 466 feet seems almost to hang in the air; the ascent is by astair of 620 steps, but the fatigue is amply compensated by the view from the summit which comprehends Flushing, Bergen - op- Zoom, Mechlin, Middelbourg and Ghent: the work of this beautiful fabric is connected byiron clasps; it seems so fine that a blast of wind would be sufficient to overthrow it, not- withstandingwhich, and the period which has elapsed since its erection, it is as perfect as it was the hour after its being completed. It was intended that a similar one should havebeen built by its side; but this was soon dis- continued, and leaves the first a much finerANTWERP . 221object than it would have appeared, had the project been completed.The gallery of the tower presents a pleasing and uninterrupted view of the town, its forti- fications , the course of the Scheldt as far as the islands at its mouth, the surrounding country, and the sea.Most of the paintings that formerly enriched the cathedral have again appeared, and the traveller once more gazes with delight on the noblest works of the best Flemish masters.He will particularly notice «The Elevation ofthe Cross,» and «The Descent>> from it,by Rubens, in his very happiest style; and he will study with exquisite pleasure the Altar- Piece by the same master. Its interesting sub- ject is «The Ascension of our Saviour.» The figures are admirably grouped, and the ex- pression of each cannot betoo much admired.The dome in the centre of the cathedral waspaintedbySchultz, and represents the heavenly choir chanting the praises of the Holy Virgin .Several of the smaller chapels surrounding the cathedral contain some admirable paint- ings. The altar-piece of the Chapel of the Cir- cumcision is accounted the best performanceofMatsys .Over one of the altars of the nave is a strangely conceived, but well-executed painting by Flors, the father-in-law of Matsys. Acurious anecdoteis connectedwith it. Matsys exercised the laborious occupation of a smith. Chance presented to him the daughter of Flors. He became deeply enamoured ofher; he dared toT.222 ANTWERP.tell her his love, and succeeded in gaining her affections . In vain he entreated the father'sconsent to their union. The artist peremptorily refused; and added, that his daughter should marry no one but a painter at least equal to himself.Inspired by love, Matsys secretly and dili- gently applied himself to the study ofpainting .Day and night he laboured at his new profes- sion, and the only hours ofrecreation in which he indulged were those that were spent in the society of his beloved. Aftermanymonths' intense application, he saw in the study of Flors, this painting of «The Fallen Angels,>> in the execution ofwhich that great master had exerted his utmost skill, and which he esteemed his chef-d'œuvre. Aftermuch hesitation, he resolved to make one da- ring effort to surprise and winthe old man. He seized the pallet of Flors, and painted a large bee on the thigh ofone ofthe angels. This was executed with so much spirit and delicacy,that Flors, on his return, frankly declared that so promising an artist was truly worthy of his daughter, and gave his immediate and cordial assent to their marriage.The tomb of Matsys is near the west door,and not far from it are some curious ornamentsbelonging to a pump, which are said to have been executed by the hammer ofthat excellent artist before love had raised him from his original humble occupation .The church of St. James contains the sepulchre ofRubens, the prince ofFlemish paint-ANTWERP . 223ers. It is ofblackmarble. Thedesignis extreme- ly simple; and it is appropriately accompanied byoneofis ownpaintings, representinghimself.his three wives, his children, and his parents .Thewindows of this church are much admired,particularly a copy of the Eucharist of Leo- nardo-da-Vinci.In the church of the Dominicans are somevaluable works of Rubens and Vandyke, par- ticularly <<The Scourging of Christ ,» his<<Bearing the Cross,» and «The Crucifixion .»That , however, which the inhabitants of Antwerp prize as highly as they do these paint- ings, will be found in the yard ofthis church,near the entrance. It is a representation of Mount Calvary, exibiting, in a rude, but spi- rited style, the wild and rocky grandeur of the place, and thronged with innumerable figures of patriarchs, prophets, and apostles . Ondes- cending some steps under the rock the travellerenters the tomb ofChrist. The Saviour, shroud- edin beautifuland costly silk , tranquilly sleeps in death; while around him are represented all thehorrors ofpurgatory. Thered flames strong- ly glare on the walls, and amidst them are delineated the pale and agonized features of those who are suffering the ordeal ofthat dread- ful fire. The catholic devoutly crosses himself as he gazes on the frightful scene, and the pro- testant is not always unaffected; for, rude as is the representation, and almost bordering on theburlesque, the tout-en-semble of the place is calculated to inspire serious and salutary reflection.224 ANTWERP.In the church of St. Augustin are otherworks ofRubens and Vandyke , which have been latelyrestored from the Louvre. Two paintings by Van Bree, a living artist, possess consider- able merit. The carved work of the pulpit is much admired. The church of St. Walburgh willbe visited on account ofthejustly celebrated altar-piece by Rubens, entitled, «The Eleva- tion of the Cross . >>>Fromthe Exchange ofAntwerp, Sir Thomas Gresham took the model of that of London.The Town-house in the great Market-place is a noble edifice, constructed entirely ofmarble. It is a singular coincidence, that the very period which witnessed the erection of this splendidbuilding, marked the rapid decay of the commerce and prosperity ofAntwerp.The public library contains 15,000 volumes,butit cannotboast any rare editions or valuable MSS.Antwerp has no extensive squares, but the Market-place , thronged every Friday with the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages ,presents a busy and pleasing scene.In the principal street is a crucifix, 33 feet high, made from a demolished statue of the Duke of Alva.This city had the honour of producing two unrivalled painters, Rubens and Vandyke.Teniers, Snyders, and Jordans, were likewise natives of Antwerp.Antwerp boasts of its Academy of the Fine Arts, supported at the public expense, and on which numerous pupils attend. The sittingsANTWFRP. 225are held in some of the halls of the Exchange.It contains a splendid gallery ofpaintings by thebestFlemishmasters. Therestored plunder of the French constitutes the most valuablepart of the collection.Apublic annual exhibition of the produc- tions of the students takes place alternately at Antwerp, Brussels, and Ghent; and the paintings or sculptures which gain the prizes,then distributed with much solemnity, are purchased by the city to which the successful candidate belongs, and added to the public collection , with his name emblazoned on theframe.It must however be acknowledged, that ,notwithstanding the laudable pains which are taken to regain the ancient pre-eminence of the Flemish school, there are few artists of modern times whose works will bear to be compared with those productions of the great masters, on which every revolving age stamps increasing value.Antwerp is gradually becoming the depôt ofthe antient and modern Flemish paintings.The sale of these interesting works may be said to be one of the staple articles of the commerce ofthe place. The true connoisseur may often pick up some valuable morceaux, but in no place is the tyro more in danger of paying dearly for the indulgence of his taste.The Place de Mer contains several collections of paintings for sale. Those of Messrs .Beckman and Snyers are the best, and are226 ANTWERP.well worth visiting. They usually contain many excellent pieces.A fine private collection in the same street is likewise open to travellers who can procure arecommendation from any respectable inha- bitant. It belongs to Mr. Van Lanchet, and few noblemen possess a gallery more splendid ,or intrinsically valuable. Some ofthe noblest works of Teniers, Vandyke, Rubens, Berghem,Cuyp, and Wouvermans enrich this museum.The chief manufactures of Antwerp are lace, which is sold under the name of Mechlin lace; a strong black silk of which thefailles,or covering for the head, worn by the inferior Flemish women, are made; a fine black dye;and the bleaching of cotton and thread.In 1576, Antwerp was sacked by the Spa- niards. For three days and nights theferocious soldiery were employed in plundering and butchering the defenceless inhabitants; 7,000 burghers of Antwerp perished. The soil of the conquerors amounted to more than40,000,000 of guilders; and the most beau- tiful part of the city was burned to the ground.Antwerp was taken by the Prince of Parma in 1585, after a memorable siege of more than a year, with an army of 120,000 men.Theprincipal inns are Le Grand Laboureur,the St. Anthony's Hotel, the Crown, the Bear, the Golden Lion, the English Hotel, and the Little Paris. The Swiss, the Emperor's ,and the Grand Coffee-houses are the mostfrequented. Fairs of thirty days each, forANTWERP . 227every kind of merchandise, commence May 17th and August 16th . Opposite to Antwerp, on the east of the Scheldt, are some of the excavations for the foundation of a new city, which Napoleon in- tended to erect there, and which was to bear his name.The road from Antwerp to Amsterdam is paved, and renders travelling safe and expe- ditious, even in winter.If the traveller is not pressed for time, Iwould advise him to proceed from Antwerp to Brussels by the canal. The fare for the whole distance is but three francs , and thebeauty of the country on each side of the canal abundantly compensates for the delay of the journey. The only inconvenience attending the voyage is, that at each of the principal locks, the passenger and his baggage are transferred to a new boat. This occursfour or five times between Antwerp and Brussels, but , as the bargemen remove every package carefully, honestly, and without ex- pense, the tourist has little to complain of beside the loss of time.The traveller may avoid the circuitous route of the first part of the canal by taking the diligence as far as Bouin. He must there be ferried over the river Rupell, and may pro- ceed toBrussels by the trekschuit. If, however,alittle delay is no great inconvenience to him ,he should perform the whole of the journey by the canal.For three or four miles after he leaves the228 LIER.MECHLIN.walls of Antwerp, the country-houses and gardens ofthe merchants present themselves in almost uninterrupted succession. Perhaps there is no city in Europe which has so many in proportion to its population. Some of them, converted into farin-houses, or falling to ruin, are sad mementos of the former great- ness of the place. The road, like most of the old roads, is remarkable for its numerousbendings and sinuosities, butthe different views which it presents of the country, and the villages and chateaux by which it passes, com- pensate for its unnecessary length.The route lies through Berghem, Rhode,Thoreton, Luytanegem, and before the cha- teau of Mussenburg. Alittle before Morsel ,a road branches off on the left to LIER, theenvirons of which are extremely beautiful.Lier has a large market for cattle every week,and supplies the neighbouring country with beer.Pursuing the route to Mechlin, we pass through Conticht, Waerloos, and Heylig- Bloed. Then comes the river Nethe, which is crossed by a handsome bridge. On the left is Roosendael. Then passing through Wael- hem, and crossing the little river Boemar, we arrive at Quennepoel, and soon afterward at Mechlin.MECHLIN, or MALINES is situaded on a plain intersected by the river Dyle. The streets are wide, and many ofthe houses are unusually spacious; they are often curiously and gro-MECHLIN. 229tesquely constructed, and are as neat as plaster and paint can make them.The cathedral of St. Rombauld is a fineGothic structure. It was commenced in the12th century, and not completely finished until the fifteenth. The grand front is ornamentedby statues of the apostles, and the figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity, not inelegantly executed. The altar-piece, representing the Crucifixion, is by Vandyke. The tower,which, although unfinished, is ofthe unusual height of 348 feet , commands an extensive view of the city and surrounding country.The moon shining with great brightness on this tower once gave it the appearance of being on fire, and the inhabitants ran in crowds to extinguish the flames. Hence it is a commonjest with the Flemish to say, that the wisemen of Mechlin wished to put out the moon. This little pleasantry has been productive of some very serious disputes; it has even been the cause of considerable bloodshed, and the traveller will do well not toglance at it while he remains inthe city.The church of the Jesuits, and that of our Lady of Hanswyk should not be overlooked.The portal of the former is a fine specimen ofGothic architecture, and the churchcontainsmany paintings describing the life of St. Xavier, the Indian missionary. The pulpit of the latter, representing the fall of our first parents, and carved out ofone tree, is a curious production. The figures display great bold230 MECHLIN.nesss , yet are executed with considerabledelicacy.This church once contained an image of the Virgin, held in the profoundest veneration by all the neighbouring country. It was brought here in a boat, which, impelledby celestial energy, pursued its course against the stream, watched by a thousand admiring spec- tators, until it suddenly approached the bank and stopped, maintaining its position by some invisible power although exposed to the rapid current. The inference was plain. The Holy Mother had selected this spot, as the future residence and sanctuary of her image. Accordingly the Church of Notre-Dame was immediately erected, and innumerable and wonderful miracles were performed here.Alas! this invaluable and heaven-born image perished by impious and sacrilegious hands.The church of St. John is enriched by one ofthechef-d'œuvres ofRubens. It is thegrand altar-piece, representing the Adoration of the Magi. The three paintings above it, depicting the Birth of Christ, his Descent from the Cross,and his Resurrection, are by the same greatmaster.The collegiate church of Notre-Dame con- tains another of the master-pieces of Rubens,viz . <<The Miraculous Draught of Fishes. >>>The excellence ofthis performanceissufficiently known.Near the Antwerp-gate is a convent of Be- guins. It once contained more then 1,400 sis- ters, andalthough now exceedingly diminished,MECHLIN. 231is the largest institution of the order in the Netherlands. The little chapel annexed to it merits some notice. Its architecture is pleas- ing; and it possesses some valuable paintings .Mechlinwas formerly a more considerable place. Its population and its manufactures have much decreased; it yet however contains 20,000 inhabitants. It has long been famous for the strongest , though not the finest Brabant lace; but the greater part of what is called the Mechlin lace is manufacturedelsewhere. Mechlinhas some large breweries ,bleaching-grounds , and tan-yards; and is celebrated for its manufactory of excellenthats. The brown beer of Mechlin is inferiorto nonethat the Netherlands produce, especially after it has been some months bottled.The Mechlin bacon and hams are in greatrequest; and adish composed of the feet and ears of the pig is well known through the whole of Belgium, by the name of Dejeuner de Malines . Provisions and house-rent areunusually cheap in this city.The ramparts of Mechlin are much fre- quented, and afford many pleasingviews ofthe city and neighbouring country.The principal inns are the Crane, the Cup,the Court of France, the Imperial Court, the Golden Lion, and the St. James. The coffeehouse of Friendship is the most frequented.In 1572, Mechlin, like too many of the Dutch and Flemish towns, experienced the tender-mercies of the Spaniards. On the approach of the army of the Duke of Alva,232 VILVORDE.the garrison wasdisposed to defend the place;but, not being seconded by the inhabitants,who were principally catholics , and who favoured the cause of Spain, they withdrew,rather than offer a fruitless and destructiveresistance. Deputies were immediately sent to the Spanish camp, to state this fact, and to declare the loyalty of the Mechliners; but ere they could be heard, the Spaniards rushed forward to the city, and, some ofthem scaling the walls, while others entered at the gates ,spreadthemselves overtheplace, andplundered and butchered the inhabitants without mercy.The virgins and matrons were violated in the presence of their parents and husbands; and even the churches and convents were pillaged equallywith the houses ofthe private citizens .It will scarcely be credited that not only no attempt was made by Alva to restrain these enormities, but that he afterwards justified them by a public manifesto.Quitting Mechlin we cross the canal of Lou- vain, and pass by a great many little hotels and pleasure-grounds, much frequented by the inhabitantsof Mechlin; thengoing through Hombeck, Vorschenborch, and Halve-Galge,we cross the Senne just before we arrive at Semps. A little to the left is Weerde. We then pass through Campenhoff, leaving Steen- block and Plenthy on the left, and having visited Eppeghenweonce more cross the Senne,whence the road lies through some luxuriant meadows as far as VILVORDE.Tindal, who first translated the New TesVILVORDE . 233tament into English, suffered martyrdom here in 1536.If the traveller has a little time to spare, he will derive much pleasure from visiting the church at Vilvorde, which has more the ap- pearance of a little cathedral than a mere village temple. The carving of the stalls of the choir is not inferior to that ofanycathedral inBelgium.The society of Beguins was first established at Vilvorde , and a small convent of this orderyet remains.The tourist will find it most convenient andpleasant to go from Vilvorde to Brussels by the canal. After passing the bridge he sees the house of correction, built on so enormous ascale as to give no favourable idea of the moralsor police of the country. It was originally acastle erected by Duke Wenceslaus, as early as 1375.The traveller then passes through Meuden,opposite the sluice of St. Gertrude, leaving soon afterwards Evere on the left. The banksofthecanal are now almost completely covered by the gardens and pleasure-grounds of innu- merable chateaux. Agreeably interspersed with these are hotels, manufactories, and mills.Themost beautiful of the country-houses is one built by Mr. Walckiers , near the Three Fountains. This pretty little hamlet derives its name from a column whence three jets of water proceed. It is situated near the last lock on the canal, not far from Brussels . The Senne and the canal here flow throughV.234 SCHOENBERG .a valley, the sides of which are neither abrupt nor high, but the chateaux that occupy them have a very pleasing appearance. The magni- ficent palace of SCHOENBERG, of which the canal affords a complete view, will principally attract the traveller's attention, nor should hefail to visit it during his stay at Brussels .The subterranean grotto, and the temples of Friendship andtheSun, will not be overlooked.About aquarter ofaleague from Schoenberg an arm of the Senne passes under the canal, to rejoin the other branch from which it hadbeen separated.Approaching the cityweenter the celebrated walk «L'Allée Verte.» It is composed of atriple row of trees on the banks of the canal ,the prospect of which, with the numerous villas around, and the busy varied scene thatcontinually presents itself, renders the prome- nade truly delightful.The Allée Verte is properly on the right bank of the canal, but the other bank is equallyplanted with trees , andas much resorted The promenade extends a mile and a half from the walls ofthe city. The view from the bridge is peculiarly beautiful.to.To give a complete history of Brussels, its edifices , and amusements, would occupy avolume. I shall nevertheless endeavour topresent my reader with a brief and complete description of all that is peculiarly worthy hisattention.1235BRUSSELSHISTORY, &C.Origin ofBrussels, or Bruxelles. Various opinions have existed respecting the etymo- logy of its name. Some have written itBrosella, Brusola, Brocella, Brussella, Brussel,and Brussels; and they suppose that it derives these names from the broussailles (brambles)which grew on the place where it was built.Others suppose that it should be written Brughsella, or Brugsel, deriving its name from a bridge built over the Senne, near which some of its first houses were erected, at aplace called Borghval: Brughe in Flemish signifies Bridge, as if one said in French Pon- tigny, and in English Bridgetown. What- ever its name may be, it appears certain that the isle of St. Gery was the cradle of Brussels,that the branches of the river which formedthis island were crossed by bridges, and that the place was defended by a fortress. It is probable that Brussels was for a long time confined to this island, as it was not surround- ed by walls and ranked as a city till the eleventh century.Charles, brother of Lothario king ofFrance,was the first who chose this place as his resid- eace in 980, and built a palace in one of the islands formed by the river Senne, which has been long since destroyed.236 BRUSSELS.In the year 1044 Brussels was enclosed by walls, in which were a great number of towers and seven gates, by order of Lamber Balderic,Count of Louvain and of Brussels. This wascalled the Old Wall.The town was considerably enlarged, and anew wall round it was commenced in 1357 ,which was not completed till the year 1369.In this wall were seven gates called Halle,Namur, Louvain, Schaerbeke, Laecke, Fian- ders, and Anderlecht.In 1555 Charles V. resigned his dominions to his son Philip at Brussels; the chair is still preserved in which he sat.The treaty of union and confederation of the states general was approved and signed by the prelates , nobles ofBrabant assembled at Brussels, 9th January, 1577 .In the year 1578 the plague made great ravages; more than 27,000 persons died of it at Brussels .Charles V., duke of Lorraine, having been driven from his estates by France, took refuge in Brussels in 1649. The same year was commenced the grand chapel of Notre Dame,on the right of the choir of Sainte Gudule:the first stone was laid by Leopold, governor- general of the Netherlands , as representativeofPhilip IV.Charles II. , king ofEngland, having been driven from his kingdom by Oliver Cromwell,came to Brussels in 1656, where he remainelfor some time with his brother, the duke of York, afterwards James II.BRUSSELS. 237In 1695 it was bombarded by the French troops under Marshal Villeroy, when more than 4000 houses were destroyed, and the greater part of the town injured. Sixteen churches, chapels, or convents, weredestroyed.The loss was estimated at several millions offlorins .In 1698 a paved road was made from Ma- lines towards Brussels as far as a place called Three Fountains, near Vilvorde. In the same year apavementwas made for the convenience ofpassing through the centre of the forest of Soigny; it commenced at the gate of Namur,and three quarters of a league from there it separated into two branches, that on the left led through Boitsfort and Groenendal to Hulpe,and that on the right to Waterloo.On the 28th of May, 1706, Brussels opened its gates to the victorious armies of the allies under the duke of Marlborough, who received thekeys from the magistrates, and appointed his brother, General Churchill, the governor.In 1717 Peter the Great visited Brussels .In 1731 a fire broke out in the royal palace, and spread with such violence that the whole wassoon reduced to ashes (excepting the royal chapel) in the course of twelve hours. This beautiful palace had been a long time the re- sidence of sovereigns, and in 1553 seven crowned heads had resided within its walls. The quantity of riches and curiosities which perished in this fire was immense, the great gallery containing many pictures of the famous painter Rubens was entirely consumed.238 BRUSSELS .In 1740 the winter was extremely severe,the frost lasted sixty-three days. It was suc- ceeded by a famine.On the 20th October in this year diedCharles VI. , sovereign of the Low Countries;he was succeeded in his estate by his daugh- ter, the archduchess Maria Theresa.On the 17th March, 1741 , Jean Baptiste Rousseau, the celebrated poet, died at Brussels in great poverty . The 29th January, 1746, Brussels was besieged by the French troops under Marshal Saxe, and after a siege of about twenty days,it surrendered by capitulation, the articles of which were signed on the 21st of February.On the 25th Marshal Saxe entered Brusselsby the gates Laecke , and took up his residence at the hotel of the prince Tour de Taxis .Louis XV. entered Brussels the 4th ofMaywith a numerous suite of noblemen and officers , and all his household troops. Te Deum was sung on the occasion at Sainte Gudule. He left Brussels on the 12th ofJune for Versailles . After several conferencesheld at Brussels, an arrangement was made for the evacuation of the towns of the LowCountries by the French troops, and it was signed the 12th January, 1749. On the 28th January all the French troops left Brussels ,and about an hour after it was entered by the Austrians.The Imperial and Royal Academy of Sci- ences and Belles Lettres was established atBrussels in 1772, under the sanction of theBRUSSELS. 239Empress and Queen Maria Theresa, On the 20th March, 1773, she issued an ordinance in favour of painting, sculpture, engraving, and architecture.Duke Charles of Lorraine laid the firststone of the front of the new church of Coudenberg the 12th February, 1776. The other part of the church was not built till 1785. In 1794 it was annexed to France by Buo- naparte, and the prince of Orange with his family took refuge in England, and remained in this situation till the ever memorable campaign of 1813, when it was separated from France, together with the whole ofBelgium.In 1814 the prince of Orange was invited by the Dutch people to take upon him the government, and immediately accepted thecrown.In 1815 Buonaparte having returned from Elba, and reassumed the imperial throne,again attempted the subjugation of the Ne- therlands; but being defeated in that attempt by the allied forces under Wellington and Blucher, his fate was sealed at the battle ofWaterloo, and the government ofthe United Netherlands thereby confirmed to the houseof Orange.Commerce, manufactures , etc. France, Eng- land, and Holland, are the three countries with which the inhabitants of Brussels carry ontheir principal trade. From France they receive wines, brandy, coffee, sugar, silks,stuffs , jewellery, books, stamps, confectionary,240 BRUSSELS.ironmongery, and many articles of luxury.They sendto France linen, laces, and iron.England supplies it with woollen stuffs and ironmongery, and Brussels sends in returnlinen, laces, paper hangings, and carpets.From Holland, Brussels receives fresh,salted, and dried fish, pot-ash, spices, refined andmoist sugar, tea, coffee, a few of the pro- ductions of India, papers, stuffs, large quan- tities of printed calicos, drugs, and cheese.From Spain , Brussels imports liqueurs and fruits, and exports to Cadiz woollen stuffs ,linens, and laces. Brussels trades also with Liege, fromwhichitreceives some fire-arms and skins, and itsends to Liege stuffs , linens, hemp,flax, coffee, sugar, and salted and dried fish.There are not many wholesale dealers in Brussels, but there are a great number ofretail dealers who carry on a considerable trade.There are few cities in Europe so well situ- ated for commerce as Brussels, but the inhabitantshavenotalways taken advantageofthis privilege, either for want of encouragement or from ignorance of their advantages.The inhabitants manufacture laces, hats,stockings of all kinds, serges , plushes, dimi- ties, cottons, threads, printed calicos, gold and silver lace, paper hangings, coarse cloths,stuffs , tobacco, soap, starch, oil of vitriol,aquafortis, china, porcelain, blankets, cloths,and iron ware. Brussels contains also dyehouses for silk. wool, and thread.Thelace manufactured here is of two sorts,calledEnglish or Brussels lace, according to itsBRUSSELS. 241ground. The Brussels , from one ell to 7 4ths broad, costs from 8 to 500 guilders an ell;the price of the English, which is 3-16ths in breadth, is from 5 stivers to 13 guilders .The manufacture of coaches and carriages is very extensive, and no foreign materials are made use of except glass, which is procured from Paris. The springs, axle-trees , boxes,and steps, are all executed there, as well as the painting, varnishing, and gilding.COINS, &c . English.S. d.A Pening imaginary, equal to ........ o 유4 Penings, anUnche or Doight....... o2 Doights, a Groot imaginary....... 0a2 Groots, a Petard .0 16 Petards, a Schilling imaginary..... 7 Petards, a Schilling..... 0 50 640 Groots, a Florin imaginary........ 1 617 Schilling, a Ducat.... ....... 3240 Groots or 6 Florins, a Pound imaginary ......….... 9 0

      • French money will pass current in Brussels as well as in France, and for the same value.

Hotels andcoffee-houses . The hotels garnis,which so badly supply the place of inns at Paris, are unknown inBrussels, but furnished rooms, and lodgings are to be met with cheap and in abundance. All that is necessary or useful to manfor his support, clothing, luxury,and pleasure, is to be found there at a mode- rate price.The principal hotels are, Hotel de Wel- lington, in the Park; Hotel Belle Vue, inX242 BRUSSELS .the Place Royale; Hotel de Flandres, in the Place Royale; Hotel d'Angleterre; Hotel deSnède; Hotel de New York.The principal cafés are, Café de la Mon- naie, de l'Amitié, Grand Café, Café Turc. They are handsome places, but not equal in point of splendour to those ofParis .Manners , customs , and general remarks .The Belgians , or Flemings, partake of the gravity ofthe Dutch, mingled with the gaiety of their neighbours, the French, but in con- sequence of the inundation of Englishmen into Brussels, their manners are imperceptibly assuming a new feature. The English lan- guage is now spoken by a very considerable number of the native inhabitants of Brussels;English society is easily procured, and English manners will probably prevail there more than in any other part of the continent. The ap- pearance of every thing about Brussels is muchmore comfortable, according to English ideas, than in Paris: the houses are cleaner,the streets , although very irregular, and paved in a strange up-and-down manner, are stillmuch more clean and comfortable for passen- gers than Paris, and the inhabitants appear to be a very agreeable people. They are par- ticularly attentive to the appearance of their houses, and white-washing is as prevalent in Brussels as in other parts of the Netherlands .The outside of every habitation , however humble, is as clean as water, paint, &c. , can make it. The window-shutters are mostlyBRUSSELS. 243painted green, and not unfrequently the houses; the floors , although without carpets,are very neat and clean. The dress ofthe inha- bitants of Brussels is so various, that it is almostimpossible to describe it; it partakes partly of the Dutch and French, high caps, shawls,and cloaks, are very prevalent, also large hats,the gowns are trimmed similar to the French;indeed, the most fashionable people dress in the French style. The men dress very much in the present English fashion, with a frock coat, &c.; in short Brussels may be considered in many respects like an English city.Dancing and music form a prominent part of the amusement of the Belgians and Dutch;it is pleasing to see people so amused, and at the first glance we might wish to see the same cheerful mirth and hilarity among the same classes in London, but the custom of the country militates against it. The same classes indeed could not dance here, without improper company joining them, for there is no place of amusement from which they can be excluded without infringing on the liberty of the subject, which never can or ought to be done; all our public holidays are differ- entlyconducted; in Brussels they are pastime,with us they frequently end in riot; with us they are expensive, there the expense is but trifling; with us the earnings of the husband cannot be spared from the wants of his fa- mily. In taking alodging an Englishman would be out of his element, he would not find the same comforts as in England, such244 BRUSSELS.as the little snug well-painted parlour, the po- lishedmahogany tables, the fine curtained bed,the neat little stove, the well-swept hearth, the carpet, the rug, the clear coal fire, the bright bars, the well-polished fire irons. There are no cisterns in Brussels, the servants are obliged to go to the pump or the nearest fountain.The high rent of our houses and our ex- pensive furniture, consume three parts of our income, and the dearness of provisions and the taxes the remainder. These are not burdens at Brussels, therefore they can afford more amusements and good living.We live up to, and beyond our income,while these people are gay, and live under it.Our tea gardens are far superior to theirs, but it is not genteel to go to them. They know each other's circumstances, so do not expect a grand entertainment, they have amusement at no expense; we cannot, so have none, and never shall have any, till wedo as they do all over the continent, throw off our mauvaisehonte of not seeing our visitors because we have nothing to give them. A gentleman might go to a card party of 60 or 70 persons,and probablythe host not worth 400l. ayear;but could the house hold them, it would be no more expense were there a hundred, ex- cept in the additional candles. They go for amusement, not for eating and drinking; they know the trouble it wouldgive, therefore never expect it.Custom is every thing, they have not the luxury of England, and we have not theBRUSSELS. 245luxury of Brussels. We may not like their cookery, they do not like ours . The cooking in Brussels is generally in the French style,but there are English boarding houses where the traveller will meet with dishes in the Eng- lish style. The Hotel d'Angleterre is much frequented byEnglishmen, and is very com- modious, and the situation, although not rural ,is in the principal street leading to and but ashort distance from the Place Royale. The Hotel de Flandres in the Place Royale is agood house, and very moderate in point of charges .Agentlemanmay have agood room for two francs per day, and dine at a table d'hote or otherwise as he may desire. The table d'hotes are generally three francs per day, including half a bottle of wine.Breakfast is generally one franc, except meat, eggs, &c. are introduced, which will make a trifling addition to the expenses. The actual expense of board and lodging for asingle gentleman will not exceed six francs per day, for which he may live tolerably well.Aperson who drinks much wine must ofcourse pay accordingly.There is a concert in a garden near the side of the canal , which is given by the Musical Society. Every attention is paid to English- men, there will be seen true gaiety of heart without noise, without confusion, or any of those riotous exhibitions, which are so often witnessed on full gala nights at Vauxhall;indeed, it is extremely rare to see a person inX,246 BRUSSELS .toxicated; this amiable trait in their character will, it is to be hoped, have a happy effect on visitors ofdifferent nations and different habits.Perfect strangers will find all ready to converse with them, whomthey may choose to address,but it willbe well to get out of our English monosyllables and say something more than plain yes and no . It will not signify what we say, as long as we say something, for the prin- cipal fault they find with us, is our long faces, close mouths, and our gravity, which,though we do not see it ourselves, is more visible in us than in the Spaniards, a nation whom, from what they have formerly suf- fered, they do not hold in the highest veneration .The garden itself is very pretty and the illumination very fine, but not like Vauxhall.For their repose they are indebted to their police; it is not the custom of the country to raise disturbances. Our police cannot do the same thing; the custom and freedom of our country will not admit of it, it is as severe as the nature of our ideas of liberty will allow;and as it would be in vain to expect it more so,we must put up with those inconveniences,which countries with a stricter police do not experience. There, people must not make anoise in the streets or create a disturbance;picking pockets is scarcely heard of, gangs of hustlers are not dreamt of, prostitutes dare not insult modest women at noon day, nor disturb the streets or theatres at night, but all this is owing to the severity ofthe police.BRUSSELS . 247In London a known thief may walk the streets, or in company with others as long as he makes no attempt to steal, there they can- not; such men would be instantly imprisoned or sent out of the town.There is a Concert Noble in Brussels; in the beautiful saloon the centre is for dancing,and the two sides , which are like corridors, for walking; at the top is a raised stage up three steps for persons of consequence. Here are to be seen assembled more than five hundredpeople. Aball was lately given by the town to the army, and returned by the officers of the Guards; both were conducted with equal splendour. At at certain hour the dancing ceased, which was imagined to be for rest,and as rows of forms were placed on each side of the corridors, the ladies took one side,and the gentlemen the other, when suddenly a door opened at the bottom on the left hand,and two men entered with a table coveredwith dishes, taking their course between the forms to the end, like a procession across the stage, and in less than ten minutes the tableswere all set down to the company, not the company to them. The bearers retired, every waiter took his post like a sentry upon his duty, which he never quitted; all was the or- der of a regiment in its exercise, the ladies helped the gentlemen with the utmost polite- ness and urbanity. It is pleasing to witness such regularity and attention; after a fair time given, the parties quitted their seats by sigual, removed from the corridors into the248 BRUSSELS.centre, the tables marched out as they had marched in, the folding doors closed, the music struck up, and the dancing com- menced.There is a room for refreshments, such aspunch, ices, or negus.A thick fog rises in the gardens, which is scarcely observed amidst the brilliant illumi- nations and the pleasures of dancing and music, but which must nevertheless be ex- tremely prejudicial to the health both of the dancers and walkers. These fogs always rise in the evening, fromthe moisture ofthe ground and the canal. The musicis certainly charm- ing, but it is peculiar to the country as well as the dancing: there are several societies in Brussels , who have regular concerts at their own houses, and two or three times a year give these little treats to their friends .In England, the young men are sent from home at fourteen or fifteen, to learn a trade or profession; and were musical pastimes thus adopted with us, our other avocations mustbe neglected, therefore, pleasing as it is, the country is better without it, and is richly re- paid by labour which is required for the sup- port of our families, and the state.It is industry which has enabled Great Bri- tain to raise those immense sums which haveastonished all Europe.When a stranger enters Brussels, it is ne- cessary to produce his passport at the gate, it is afterwards sent to the bureau of the police;at the hotel a paper will be presented to him,BRUSSELS . 249ruled in columns for his Christian name, sur- name, place of abode, profession, age, place of nativity, and destination; after filling up the paper and signing the name, it is sent to the office ofpolice and recorded. Indeed, this mode is adopted in France as well as Bel- gium.Situation and climate. Brussels, the capital ofthe kingdom of the Netherlands, is situatedon the Senne, at 4º 15' east longitude, and 50° 51' north latitude.The temperature of Brussels, compared with that of Paris, is colder in winter and notso warm in summer; but, compared with London, it is warmer in summer, and colder in winter. The weather is more variable, anddamper than at Paris, but less so than in England.Near Brussels is a delightful valley, wa- tered by the river Senne which crosses the town; and surrounded by fertile heights which gently slope towards the river, and divide themselves into small and irregular branches,which, uniting with the neighbouring hills ,form a romantic scene of hills and dales.These, with valleys intersected by rivulets,present altogether a most enchanting coup d'œil. In the midst of this delightful scenery,stands the city of Brussels, where the mag- nificence of art, seems to vie with the beauty of nature.The town is in the form of a pear, its length from N.N.E. tos. s.w., or from the gate of250 BRUSSELS .Laken to the gate ofHall, is about a mile anda half, and its greatest breadth from E.S.E. to w.w.w. , or from the gate of Louvain to the gate of Flanders , is nearly one mile. Apart of the town is built on the side ofa hill, the sur- face ofwhich is very irregular and intersected with ravines .Its extent, together with the magnificence of its buildings and the number ofits inhabitants,render it inferior to few cities in Europe, and it yields to none in the salubrity ofits air, the number and variety of its waters, the mildness of its climate, the beauties of its situation , and the abundance and comparative cheapness of provisions. It is to these physical causes as well as to its numerous privileges, the excel- lence of its laws, and the sumptuous embel- lishments with which it has been continually decorated, that the great influx of strangers during time of peace may be attributed. The beautiful canal whichforms its communicationwith the Scheldt is eighteen toises above the level of the sea.This ancient capital of the Belgian pro- vinces , formerly owed the greater part of its splendour and wealth, to the residence of so- vereigns or of their illustrious representatives ,surrounded by a brilliant court, and to the number ofstrangers who visited it, rather than to its commerce or manufactures . Nevertheless, its manufactures hold a considerablerank; those for carpets and lace in particular,have rendered it celebrated throughout Eu- rope. In consequence of recent events, even -the absence of the court has not detracted inBRUSSELS . 251any considerable degree from its gaiety or prosperity.Soil and Produce. Corn, vegetables, and fruits of every description common to this country, grow here in great abundance. The hills are cultivated, and laid out in gardens,orchards, corn -fields, and plantations, the flourishing state ofwhich proves the richness of the soil and the mildness of the climate.Cabbages and asparagus grow in the open fields; the red cabbage grows very large here,and is in general use: there is another sort of cabbage peculiar to the environs of Brux- elles, which produces a sort of sprout in the form of a button or bud, about the size of awalnut; when the large leaves are pulled off,with the exception of those on the top of the stalk , these buds continue to sprout during the whole of the winter, and form a useful anddelicious vegetable at that season ofthe year;this kind of cabbage has never been brought to such perfection elsewhere.The trees in the woods and forests , as well as those which border the roads, are in general well formed and very lofty; amongst those which are most common in these situations ,are the oak, the linden-tree, the ash, the elm ,the beech, the poplar, and the birch.Public voitures. The fiacres or hackney coaches are numerous, and kept in a tole- rable state of repair. There are also a great many coaches kept to let out by the day, the month, or the year, which are very neatly fitted up, andmaybe had on reasonable terins .252 BRUSSELS .The public conveyances, or diligences, which go at a fixed hour both by land or water,leave Brussels once, and sometimes twice inthe day for the different places in the sur- rounding country.Handsome barouches may be hired for Wa- terloo, etc. , at the Hotel de Flanders, Hotel d'Angleterre, etc., the charge for which is usually twenty-five francs for the day.Palaces. The Palais Royal, or La Cour,is situated about a quarter of a mile from the park. This palace was formerly the residence ofthegovernors-general of the LowCountries,and was in part rebuilt by order of Charles duke of Lorraine.The chapel belonging to this palace is an elegant building, very much resembling that of Versailles.About half a league north of Brussels is the large and agreeable village of Laecke, or Lacken. It is very ancient, having existed since the year goo. The church of Notre Daine de Laecke is a large edifice, built in the form of a cross, and was ornamented formerly with fine pictures.The environs of Laecke are embellished by the imperial and royal palace of Schonenberg,built by the archduchess Maria Christina during her residence in the Low Countries ,and since in the possession of the late emperor Napoleon. The gardens belonging to this palace extend along ahill, from which there is a beautiful view of the canal which runsalong the excellent road to Antwerp. TheBRUSSELS. 253subterranean grotto, the temples ofFriendship and of the Sun, in these gardens, are worthy the attention of the traveller.From the church of Laecke a row of treesleads to a fountain, the waters of which fallinto an elegant stone basin.Markets . Brussels contains more thantwenty markets. The horse market, which was formerly situated on the Grand Sablon ,is nowheld near the gate of Laecke, as well as the market for oxen and cattle of every description.The great meat market is situated near the market for herbs; it is a modern building of considerable taste. The entablature is sup- ported by square columns. The entrance is up a flight of steps which lead to two stair- cases: above the steps is a stone balcony.. There is a smaller meat market in the Rue deBavarie.Provisions at Brussels are considerably cheaper than at Paris; but owing to the great number of strangers who resort there, they must necessarily become dearer. The bread,vegetables, and meat, are excellent. Beer,which is the usual beverage, is made here very good, though not so strong as in Eng- land. Fuel is dear, particularly wood.Squares. The square ofthe grand market- place, called La Grande Place, is one ofthe inost remarkable in Europe. It is a regular parallelogram of very great beauty, orna- mented on allsides by buildings often diffeY254 BRUSSELS.rent in form and architecture, but built onthe same plan with a considerable degree of splendour. Some of the decorations of these buildings have been formerly ranked among the finest productions of sculpture, but they were destroyed during the revolution . One of the small sides , although containing many houses, forms but one building, which was once ornamented by a figure of Fame , exe- cuted by Le Quesnoy, and some busts of the dukes of Brabant. The opposite side is com- posed of different buildings, each of which belong to companies of tradesmen. One of the large sides, besides the town-house, pre- sents several elegant houses richly ornanient- ed. The side opposite to this contains several houses, like the preceding, belonging to cor- porations, as well as the very ancient building called La Maison du Roi, which is well builtin the Gothic style This beautiful square is situated in the centre of the city.The Place Royale is the finest square in Brussels . The principal building in it isthe superb and new church of Coudenberg,the portico of which is formed by six Corin- thian columns supporting a simple pediment.This square was formerly adorned by the statue of Prince Charles of Lorraine, an ever- to-be admired monument of art, which was thrown down in 1792 by the French under Dumouriez, and re-established the next year,when the Austrians entered Belgium; but the country being again conquered by the French,it was conveyed to Paris.The other buildings which form this squareBRUSSELS . 255are remarkable for the regularity and beauty of their architecture. The Place Royale is at a very short distance from the Park.Theplacedu Grand Sablon is large and well built; in the midst of it is the beautiful foun- tain built by lord Bruce.The Place St. Michael was commenced in1775, and was built from the design of Fisco.It is situated in the vicinity of the New-street,and is a large oblong square formed by beau- tiful buildings, which are ornamented by lumns of the Doric order. The middle ofthis street forms a delightful promenade, se- parated by wooden partitions, and planted with lime-trees .coThe other squares are of almost no importance.Streets. A considerable number of thestreets in Brussels are broad, but the ground in many parts very unequal, and most of the houses in the principal streets are handsomely built, painted in oil, and often ornamented with Ionic columns .4.Almost all the houses in the vicinity of the market-place bear a date , from which it is in- ferred that they were built the year after Mar- shal Villeroy had bombarded this town in Au- gust, 1695, and reduced many ofthe houses to ashes. The appearance ofthese houses attests the wealth which Brussels then possessed.White, yellow, and occasionally pale green,are the colours used in decorating the fronts of the houses. Although that part ofthe town called Le Rivage is the most unhealthy, yet it256 BRUSSELS.presents the greatest facilities to commerce, in the numerous branches and quays ofthe canal .Fountains . There are not less than twenty fountains, but the principal which merit the attention of the stranger are the following:Afountain consisting of a beautiful group in white marble, erected in the Grand Sablonin 1751 , by orders left in the will of Lord Bruce, count of Aylesbury, as an acknow- ledgment of the enjoyments he had experienced at Brussels during a residence offorty years .This inscription, so flattering to Brussels, has not escaped the ravages of the revolution; it has been torn from the pedestal, where it was placed in large bronze letters .This monument represented Minerva sitting down, and holding a medallion, on which were engraved the portraits of the Emperor Francis I. and of the Empress Maria The- resa; on the right is Fame, and on the left the Scheldt, under the form of a genius.This group rests on a pedestal thirteen feet high, on which are engraved the arms of LordAylesbury, with thisinscription, Fuimus;these arms are supported by-two heads of Mascaron, from which water spouts out.This beautiful monument was executed by Jacques Bergé on the plan made by the Comte de Calemberg.The Manneke. In 1648 this was only afigure of stone, but the magistrate of Brus- sels had it replaced by one of bronze. De Quesnoy, the famous sculptor, made the model for it, and this is what still remains. ItBRUSSELS. 257is an exquisite statue of a child discharging astream of water in a natural, but not altoge- ther decent manner. It has been noticed byseveral sovereigns, particularly by LouisXV. ,who, as a slight hint of the indelicacy of so public an exposure, presented the infant with arich wardrobe, with which it is sometimes clothed on days of ceremony.The fountain called Les Trois Pucelles , thethree Maids, so named because it was formerly composed of three goddesses throwing water from their breasts: these statues having been mutilated, were replaced by the present foun- tain in the form of an obelisk. It is situatedat the corner of the street of St. Nicolas.The fountains at the Hotel de Ville. Inthe court of this edifice are two fountains,each ornamented with a statue ofwhite marblerepresenting a river god lying down among rushes, and leaning on an urn. Alarge shell placed on two dolphins of marble receives four streams of water, which flow from the nostrils of two other metal dolphins, on the backs of which are two tritons . The fountain onthe right is by Plumiers, and is much supe- rior to that on the left, which is executed by Kinders. The waters of these fountains, after having run by subterranean channels, rush into the street of La Vrient from the mouthsof two small lions, which are on the sides of the gate leading to the great court of the Hotel de Ville, and form there two fountains.These lions are of bronze, and are each on apedestal; the water which they throw intoY.258 BRUSSELS .two shells of stone rises several feet high .The fountain of the Steenporte, or Stone- gate, in one of the finest in the town; it issupposed to have been erected during the time of Charles V.; it has four sides , adorn- ed with sculptural ornaments; at the top are four streams of water, which can be raisedto a considerable height; these fall into abasin, from which they pass through several subterranean communications, and form beneath four jets d'eau; the waters of which fall into four large shells, below which are four other water-falls, which discharge them- selves into four cisterns in the road .Near the gate ofHalle is a fountain, which,from the Gothic inscriptions and antique ap- pearance, is supposed to be the most ancient inBrussels .Besides the preceding, there are a number of other fountains of inferior note.The Theatres , and places of amusement.Theatre; or, Hotel de la Comedie, was builtin 1700, on the Place de la Monnoie, under the direction of Bombardi, an Italian architect. Brussels owes this embellishment to themunificence of Maximilian Emmanuel, Electorof Bavaria, then governor-general of the Low Countries, under Charles II. king of Spain.This prince encouraged the arts and sciences.This salle de spectacle is very large and beau- tiful , and the interior is decorated with taste;it has five tiers of boxes, but the pit is ill contrived; not being built in a sloping form,the spectators are obliged continually toBRUSSELS. 259stretch their necks in order to see the stage.It will hold about one thousand eight hun- dred persons, but the avenues and staircases are so contracted, that there would be considerable danger in case of accident. This theatre formerly enjoyed considerable reputa- tion , both for its orchestra, and for its com- pany, which has furnished the theatres of Paris with several excellent performers .There is a smaller theatre in the park,which was formerly very much frequented,particularly during the time that a Flemish company performed there, and Vitzthumb was the director of the orchestra .There is also a large assembly-room in the park for balls and concerts , a restaurateur,and a coffee-house, which is extremely well arranged for social enjoyments, and for amu- sements of every description.There is an exhibition in the lower part of the town, of panoramic views of various places in Europe, and also figures in wax, repre- senting the royal family of France and the Netherlands, the Emperors of Russia and Austria, King of Prussia, Wellington, Blucher, etc. etc.Brussels has fewer public amusements than might be expected from its size, which is probably owing to the absence of the court.Museum, library, etc. The museum con- tained in the ancient Palais de la Cour, pos- sesses some very fine old as well as new pic- tures, amongst which are some scarce ones by Carlo Dolce, Rubens, Van Dyke, Crayer,260 BRUSSELS .Champaigne, De Clerck, d'Artois , Thyssens,Slingeland , and others. The museum may be visited by strangers, and the conductor takes infinite pains to point out the various beauties of the paintings. The new painting ofthe king of the Netherlands is a most asto- nishing likeness, There is also a cabinet of natural curiosities, which fortunately had been removed before the French gained pos- session of Brussels . It is not necessary togive any thing at the door, but a trifling compliment is usually expected.The library, which is in the same building as the museum, is the largest and richest in Belgium. It contains more than 120,000volumes, most of which treat on theology,the belles lettres, law, and history. There are also some old works of the first period of printing, numerous manuscripts, amongwhich are some valuable classic authors, besides se- veral pieces belonging to the history of the Netherlands .The academy of sciences and belles lettres usually held their meetings in the library.The same building has a superb plantation of orange-trees, a well- arranged botanic garden, intended for lessons in botany, a ca- binet of natural history, etc.Churches. The church of St. Gudule; or,St. Michel, was commenced under Lambert ,Count of Louvain , in 1010.St. Gudule is an elegant gothic building built in the form of a cross, the architectureis regular as well as beautiful. In the frontBRUSSELS. 261are two large square towers which present a very imposing appearance, although like most of the towers in the Netherlands, they are unfinished; on the top of these are two telegraphs.The choir is separated from the nave by abeautiful lobby. The nave is separated from the two sides by large high pillars which sup- port the arched roof at a great height. Each pillar is ornamented by astatue of exquisite beauty, ten feet high .That of Jesus Christ, is executed by Jean van Delen, the Holy Virgin , by Arnold Quelin; the apostles St. Peter and St. Philip,by Jean van Milder, of Antwerp; St. John ,St. James the Less, and St. Matthew, by N. Tobias; St. James the Great and St. Simon,by Luc Faidherbe of Malines; St Paul, St. Thomas, St. Barthelemy, and St. Matthias ,by the celebrated Jerome du Quesnoy, which are much superior to the others, and are greatly admired by connoisseurs.About the centre of the nave is the famouspulpit of oak, an extraordinary specimen of carved workmanship, executed by HenryVer- bruggen of Antwerp, in 1609, for the church of the Jesuits of Louvain, but after the sup- pression of that order, it was transferred to the church of St. Gudule in 1776. On it is the following inscription in gold letters .Han Verbruggen Ant. inv. delin . et. fecit.The subject at the bottom of this exquisite performance represents Adam and Eve being262 BRUSSELS .driven out of Paradise by an angel with aflaming sword in his hand, and death pursuing them. They are as large as life, and from the positions in which they are placed, they appear to sustain the terrestrial globe which is above them. In the cavity of this globe is the pul- pit for the priest to exercice his fonctions.This globe rests on a very lofty tree, on the top of which is a canopy supported by an angel, and Truth represented under the cha- racter of a female. Above is a beautifulstatue of the Holy Virgin, and the infant Jesus holding a cross with which he is crushing the head of the seducing serpent. The Virgin is adorned with a glory formed by stars, and is surrounded by a number of angels. At the lower part of this pulpit are two small stair- cases , and on the branches of the tree, in- tended to represent the tree ofknowledge, are different animals, those on Eve's side are the peacock, the parrot and the ape; and, on Adam's side, the eagle and ostrich.The masterly style in which the pulpit is executed, and the high preservation in which it remains to the present day, contribute to render it the admiration of every stranger who visits Brussels. Indeed, it so far surpasses every other production of the kind that, if there were no other curiosities in Brussels,this performance alone would be an ample compensation for the journey.The grand entrance to the nave is orna- mented by different figures, the principal of which are those of Saintes Regnilde andBRUSSELS . 263Charailde, sisters ofSt. Gudule. The beautiful painted window over the portal, repre- senting the Last Judgment, is painted by Floris .The entrance to the choir is formed partly of wood and partly of marble. It contains some bas-reliefs displaying considerable ta- lent.The altar in the choir is modern, having been constructed in 1743, from the designs of Donckers .The architecture is of the Composite order.It is composed of white marble. All the fi- gures, and the whole of the sculpture with which it is ornamented, were executed by the elder Du Roi, after the designs of Verhaegen;the painting on this altar representing the re- surrection of Christ, is by J. Millé.In the choir is a tombe of black marble, on which is a lion of bronzed copper, executed by J. de Montfort, in 1610: this lion weighs six thousand pounds. This mausoleum con- tains the ashes of John II. duke of Brabant ,who died in 1312, of his wife Margaret,daughter of Edward, king of England, who died in 1318, and of Philip I. , who died in 1430.Another monument in the choir is the mausoleum of the Archduke Ernest, who died in 1595. It has on it the figure of a warrior lying down in armour, and on its sides is themotto of the archduke.Soli Deo gloria.264 BRUSSELS .At the foot ofthe great altar is a sepulchral stone of white marble, which forms the en- trance to a tomb in which are deposited se- veral archdukes and archduchesses.The choir is lighted by nine windows, all of which have painted glass, and are much ad- mired by connoisseurs. Besides the preceding there are numerous objects in the choir worthy the attention of the stranger.Amongst the numerous little chapels which adorn this cathedral, and which are all ornamented with paintings, the following deserve particular attention.The chapel of St. Mary Magdelaine, in which are four beautiful pictures painted by J. Van Cleef, a native ofGhent, and pupil of Crayer. These pictures represent the visita- tion of St. Elizabeth, the holy family, St. John preaching in the wilderness, and the baptism of Jesus Christ.The chapel of Saint Sacrament de Mira- cles , is large and lofty; it is lighted by five large painted windows, This chapel was com- menced in 1534, and finished in 1539. On the side of the great altar is a painting which represents the Holy Virgin, and beneath it is amausoleum containing the remains ofArch- duke Albert, who died in 1621 , and his wife who died in 1633, and several other noblemen.The chapel of Notre Dame de la Deliver- ance, was commenced in 1649, and finished in 1653. The altar is in black and whitemarble built in the Corinthian order by VerBRUSSELS . 265spoel, and onit is apainting which represents the Assumption, byChampagne. This chapel also has painted windows, and contains two tombs, that of the Count d'Isembourg, and that of the family of Philip John Dennetieres,the former was executed by Verspoel, and on it is a figure ofthe count as large as life,which appears to be supported by two soldiers who are placed on the side: above whom is agenius raising a curtain. The latter has only the arms of James and Philip Francis Den- netieres, and was executed by Van Delen.The walls of the inside of the church of St.Gudule are covered on procession days with most beautiful tapestry. This church was famous for three consecrated hosts, whichwerepreserved in one of its little chapels, and from which, they say, blood issued on being stabbed by a Jew out of contempt to the catholic re- ligion. They were exposed every festival in achalice richly set with diamonds, and were annually carried about the city in procession with greatsolemnity. All the religious orders had their monasteries and churches here, and among themany nunneries were two English of Dominican ladies, one founded by Car- dinal Howard in the reign of King Charles II.and the other of Benedictines. There werealso several hospitals, which were well en- dowed, and kept exceedingly neat, some of which were for the entertainment of strangers,who were supplied with necessaries for three days, and one ofthem for foundling children;but all these went with the Revolution.Z266 BRUSSELS.The CHURCH ofST. GERY is situated in the Place de la Fontaine, in an island formed by the river Senne .The foundation of this church is uncertain,but it is considered the most ancient in Brussels. It is dedicated to St. Gery or Gaugeric,bishop of Cambray and Arras, who died in 619. In 1015, this church was rebuilt by order of Lambert; Count of Louvain, whose father had deposited the body of St. Gudule in it. In 1201 it was made subject to the church of St. Gudule, together with all the other churches in Brussels, by order of Henry I. Duke of Brabant, and in 1520, was form- ed into a parish by the orders of Pope Leo X., at the request of the Emperor Charles V.This church is built in the Gothic style of architecture; the tower is very large, and the choir is lofty, light, andbeautiful. Thegrand altar is of wood, and is decorated by a paint- ing of the Lord's Supper, executed in thestyle of the Italian school. In the altar of St. Anne is a good painting which represents the Holy Virgin, St. Joseph, andAngels. The church contains several very fine paintings ofscrip- ture subjects.1The CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LA CHAPELLEwas founded in 1134, and was made a parish in 1210. It is situated in the Haute Rue, and is a beautiful Gothic building. The pillars which separate the nave from the sides are ornamentedwith statues ofour Lord, the Holy Virgin, and the Twelve Apostles.BRUSSELS . 267The statues of St. Peter, St. James, and St. Matthew, are by Du Quesnoy, and are in- finitely superior to the others by Fiterbe and Dennis , although those by Fiterbe are very beautiful. The grand altar is of marble after a design of Rubens.This church contains the two following magnificent monuments, as well as many others.The mausoleum of the house of Spinola, by the skilful hand of Plumiers . The chief ornament consists in a group of three statues ,representing a Female, Time, and Fame;the statue of Time is considered an exquisite specimen of art. This group is of marble as well as the tomb, which is black, and the re- mainder of the mausoleum green marble.The tomb of the celebrated painter, John Brueghel, surnamed Velours, above which is a picture supposed to have been painted by Rubens, representing Jesus Christ delivering the keys to Peter.The picture in the fifth chapel is by Crayer,and is much admired both for its composition and colouring. Several other pictures by eminent masters adorn the other parts of thechurch.The CHURCH Ofthe SABLON; or, Notre Dame des Victoires, was erected in 1288, by John ,first Duke of Brabant, in commemoration of a victorywhich he gained over the archbishop of Cologne and his allies at Woeringue. This church is situated between the Great andLittle Sablon, andis a beautiful regular Gothic268 BRUSSELS .edifice, very much ornamented. It is large and light, the windows are painted, and the columns which support theroof are ornament- ed with statues. The choir is separated by a partition of black and white marble.The most remarkable objects of curiosity in this church are two chapels which belong to the house of Tour Taxis , and which are filled with statues and allegorical figures in black and white marble, executed by Gripello, Du Quesnoy, Vandelen, and several other dis- tinguished artists. In one of them is the mag- nificent tomb belonging to the family of Tour and Taxis; on it is inscribed the followingmotto.Virtus non tempus.by which is intended that Time cannot affect Virtue; the artist has represented Virtue in the character of a woman holding in herhand a chain of gold, which Time is seizing and unsuccessfully endeavouring to make Virtue follow.Besides the preceding, there are a great number of statues and pictures by eminent artists , which adorn different parts of the church.The CHURCH ofST. JAMES , or the new church of COUDENBERG, or KAUDENBERG, is situaded on one side of the Place Royale. The first stone of this church was laid February 12, 1776, by Charles , Duke of Lorraine, but the remainder ofthe church was not finished till 1785.Theportal is extremely neat, and is formedBRUSSELS . 269by Corinthian pillars, the simplicity of which is very imposing; it was erected from the de- signs of Guimard; on each side is a statue,one represents Moses, and was executed by Olivier, the other represents David, and was executed by Janssens. There was formerly on this portal a bas-relief, by Olivier, of con- siderable taste.In the interior of the church, the columns,masonry, cupola, nave, and chapters , are plain but noble.The CHURCH of ST. NICHOLAS, situated in the Rue des Frippiers, at a short distance from the Grande Place. In 1622 it was made aparish, having been only a chapel before that time. It is built in the Gothic style, and is ornamented in the interior by a statue of the Virgin Mary, and Several paintings.The CHURCH of NOTRE DAME FINIS TERRÆ,so called from its situation near the extremity of the town, in the Longue rue Neuve is vul- garly called Finisterre. It was built in 1618,and was made a parish in 1646, when it was greatly enlarged. The portal is formed of columns in the Doric order, and the roof of the interior is supported by twelve columns of the Composite order, resting on marble pedestals. The pulpit is very beautiful, and the grand altar represents a tomb on which areplaced twoworshipping angels, abovewhom is the HolyVirgin, surrounded by a glory and angels. In the choir are some curious paintings.The CHURCH of ST. CATHERINE is in the RueZ.270 BRUSSELS .St. Catherine, near the church of St. Gery,but it has nothing to attract particular atten- tion.Chapels. Chapelle de Bon Secours was constructed in the form of a dome in 1664,but having been destroyed in the bombard- ment of 1695, was afterwards rebuilt in its present form. This chapel is one of the most beautiful and most frequented in the town,and is remarkable for the good taste and regu- larity of its architecture . The other chapels have noting to interest the stranger.Nunneries. The Grand Nunnery, situated in the Chaussée de Laken, was founded in 1250, but having been pulled down by the Calvinists in 1583, it was rebuilt on a magni- ficent scale. It is supposed to owe its origin to Sainte Begge, daughter of Pepin of Landen,and sister of Sainte Gertrude de Nivelle. Theground occupied by this Nunnery is very ex- tensive, and is entirely surrounded by walls,and in some parts by a ditch. The church belonging to it is very beautiful: it is supported on the inside by columns of the Doric Order. The grand altar is an exquisite piece of architecture, ornamented with some choice specimens of sculpture.The Small Nunnery is situated between the Park and the Rue d'Isabelle.Besides the above, there are a number ofmonasteries of inferior notePark promenades , etc. The Park of BrusBRUSSELS."271 sels is superior to most public gardens in Eu- rope. It is extremely welllaid out in pleasant rural walks, with seats and chairs, for the ac- commodation of the public; the walks are scheltered by rows of lofty trees , and orna- mented by groups of statues in white marble,many of which are well executed. In thecentre of the park is a magnificent basin, con- taining a great number of gold and silver fish . On each side of the principal walk is a valley formed by hills, on which are groves of trees of very great height, which afford a delight- ful shelter from the rays of the sun. In thevalley on the right is a square basin of a single piece of blue marble, which formerly served to receive the water of a fountain in the oldpark, and which has now been placed in the new one. Amongst the statues, that of Sainte Mary Magdalen, by De Quesnoy, is one of the most admired; the saint is represented re- clining on a rock leaning on her elbow, with one hand supporting her head. There are two statues by Gripélo, the one representing Diana, the other Narcissa-the Diana is thebest; there is also one by Vervoost, represent- ing Charity, which possesses merit, as well as several other statues and groups . In one ofthe groves on the eastern side of the park there is a sort of Vauxhall, the proprietors of which keep a table d'hôte, and supply the company with refreshments in separate boxes.There is also a theatre and several shops. The park is surrounded by houses, which form four streets . The fronts of these houses are272 BRUSSELS.not uniform, but most of them are handsome,and altogether form a fine coup d'œil. On the northern side is a street, the whole front of which is truly unique; in the centre is the magnificent palace formerly called the Hôtel du Conseil de Brabant, now the Court of Ap- peal, the pediment of which presents an al- legorical group in relievo, representing Jus- tice, which does honour to the art of statuary.There is a fine perspective view of this front from the principal walk in the park. This edifice was constructed from the designs of Guimard; on each side of it are buildings ,which extend the whole width of the park,and appear to form one vast model of sym- metrical architecture, which is truly magni- ficent On this site formerly stood the retired house which Charles V. built, and where he resided from the time of his abdication, in 1556, till his departure for Spain. There are several gates to the park, which are open from sunrise till ten o'clock. Sentinels are posted at all the entrances, and the utmost order pre- vails. The most fashionable promenade of an evening is on the left of the entrance from the Place Royale. There is another charming promenade at Brussels , called the Allée Verte, which com- mences at the walls of the town, and extends in adirect line for nearly half a league on the banks of the canal, the walk, which is properly termed the Allée Verte, is on the right bank;but there is another on the left bank, and on the side of the road, bordered by trees, whichBRUSSELS. 273also forms an agreeable promenade; above the canal , on the rampart, is abridge, and by the side of it a platform, from whence there is avery fine view of the whole length of the ca- nal, and of the walks which border it. Be- tween the walk on the left bank of the canaland the road, which is adorned with trees and houses, there are fertile meadows.On leaving the town by the gate Du Rivage,and turning to the left, there is another very charming promenade, formed by avenues of linden-trees , into which carriages are ad- mitted, and which extends nearly all round the town, outside the walls.Canal. The first attempt to render the Senne navigable took place in the year 1436;Philip the Good then granted to the inhabit- ants of Brussels the privilege of enlarging and making this river deeper throughout Brabant,for the advantage of commerce , and Maria ,daughter of Charles the Bold, allowed them a further privilege of making the Senne na- vigable as far as the Rupel and the Scheldt.But this undertaking was retarded for nearly a century by the opposition of the inhabitants of Malines , who were jealous of their rights on this river, and made use of every means in their power to prevent its progress. Owing to this, the inhabitants of Brussels were obliged to seek other means to attain their end, and they resolved, with the consent of the states of Brabant , to dig it solely on that territory;that is to say, along the banks of the Senne274 BRUSSELS .from Brussels to Vilvorde and leaving this river and the territory of Malines on the right,to continue it almost in a straight line to the village of Willebroeck , opposite to Boom, both of them on the Rupel. In this manner the canal was extended to the distance of fiveleagues, whereas if it had terminated at Ma- lines, it would have been only four leagues in length; but the inhabitants ofthe latter place again opposed it, and alleged that the execu- tion of this plan would be an essential injury to them; and it was not till after several legal proceedings had taken place, that they were permitted to proceed with the new canal,which was commenced in the year 1550 , at the village of Willebroeck, by Jean de Loc- quenghien, formerly burgo-master of the town of Brussels, and rendered navigable the 11th of October, 1561 , under the direction of the famous architect Georges Rinaldy. It is said tohave cost nearly two millions offlorins. The waters are retained by five flood-gates, the town of Brussels being more elevated by fifty feet than the village where it commences; the canal discharges itself into the Rupel, which loses its name at a short distance from Willebroeck, and takes that of the Scheldt. On each side of the canal are four fine rows oftrees, which form an agreeable promenade.Public Buildings. The Hotel de Ville is one of the most curious Gothic edifices in theNetherlands, it is situated in the grand square ofthe market-place, it was begun in 1401 , and finished in forty-one years. The tower of it,BRUSSELS . 275which is three hundred and sixty-four feet high, is extremely elegant , and is hollow to the top. At the summit there is a gilt colossal statue ofSt. Michel, which serves as a weather- cock, and is seventeen feet in height. It is almost inconceivable that the architect whocould execute such a curious chef-d'œuvre asthis tower, should have so glaringly deviated from every rule of architecture, as not to place it in the centre of the building. Besides which,neither the doors, windows, nor any other parts accord; in short, the whole of this edifice presents an appearance altogether original .Il has been said that the architect hanged himself, when he observed that the tower was not in the centre, but it can scarcely be ima- gined that he should not have perceived such adefect before the tower was finished, as it was two years building. Regnard has related,that he had read an inscription in support of this opinion, but there is none to be found now. It is rather to be supposed that it wasthe effect of some naturalcause; perhaps the marshiness of the ground, as it is asserted,that the foundation of a part, if not of the whole building, was laid on bullock's hides.The principal gate of the Hotel de Ville is under the tower. Along the whole front of the building runs an open gallery, formed by columns, which support a terrace with a stone balustrade, much ornamented. There are fortywindows in front, between each window,is aniche intended for the statues of sovereigns and celebrated men of Brabant; in the roof276 BRUSSELS.which is sloping and covered with statues,there are about eighty casement windows,adorned with pediments and other gilt orna- ments; the wall is finished at the top by astone balustrade. The summit of the roof is covered with lead, ornamented in different ways.The interior of the Hotel de Ville is very beautiful , the halls are spacious and lofty,each of them has its particular use; they are principally for business connected with the government; several of the rooms have orna- ments which are worthy of attention. It is not kept in the order that a public establish- ment ofthatkind deserves; in short, the whole appearance of the square in which it is situated is slovenly, the fruit- stalls, brokers'-shops, and marchands in general, disfigure it by adisplay of their paltry wares.The Maison du Roi, King's house, or Bread house, in Flemish, Brood Huys, is an ancient Gothic building in the Grande Place, facing the Hotel de Ville. It was in part rebuilt and embellished by order of the infanta Isabella.It bears two inscriptions of the year 1625, and one of the year 1811 , by the Marquis Arco- nati, to whom it then belonged.The Hotel d'Aremberg, formerly Hotel d'Egmont, is an elegant building situated in the Little Sablon. This hotel was formerly furnished in the most elegant manner, and contained a collection of pictures by eminent masters . Its gardens are very extensive.Amongst the other public establishments are, theBRUSSELS . 277Bureau des Postes in the Rue du Chene.The Maison des Fous, established in 1461 ,situated near the gate of Laken.The Maison de Correction, situated near the Marché des Chevaux, which was built by the Archduchess MariaElizabeth .L'Amigo, a prison, situated behind the Ho- .tel de Ville,The Prison for capital offences is near the gate ofHalle.The Military Hospital is situated on the banks of the Senne near the gate of Laken.Barriers . BRUSSELS has eight gates.Offices for the public diligences, coach- stands , etc. The principal messageries are situated in the Rue de la Madelaine , Rue del'hôpital et de Bovie, and in the Marché des Charbons. The principal coach-stands are in the Place de la Monnaie, du Grand Sablon,and on the Place Royale.ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS .LA BELLE ALLIANCE is a farm-house, aboutthree-quarters of a mile from La Haye Sainte,on the road to Genappe. This place is not only a small farm house but an inn ofthe humbler kind, kept by M. Dedave.The out buildings are in ruins. This place is memorable, in consequence of the Duke of Wellington and Prince Blucher having met at the house in the evening of the event- ful day of the battle of Waterloo. The two heroes embraced each other in the most afAa278 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS .fectionate manner, after which the duke retired on his position, and left Prince Blucher to pursue the flying enemy. There are se- veral cottages a little beyond the farm-house,in one of which poor Decoster resided, and from which he was taken by order of Buonaparte, to serve as a guide to the French Emperor. The poor man declares he never was so much alarmed in his life, for he had neveron any former occasion seen five hundred persons collected together.Buonaparte posted his favourite guard in front of thisplace, and never approached nearer to La Haye Sainte than the hollow part of the ground, between that place and La Belle Alliance on the main road .ANDERLECHT is a small town about half aleague from the gate of the same name, and was formerly one of the suburbs of Brussels .It is an agreeable and healthy situation. The church is built over a subterranean chapel in which are deposited the bones of St. Guidon ,who died at Anderlecht in 1012. The butterofthis place is verycelebrated, and forms the principal branch ofits trade. In its environs are several country houses . ASSCHE, a small town two leagues and ahalffrom the gate of Flandres, is situated on the road from Brussels to Ghent. In thechurch on the right of the entrance to Assche is the tomb of the family of Coutercau. The inhabitants carry on a considerable trade in hops. The church which is dedicated to St.ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS . 279Martinis a beautiful antique building. Assche is a post station.AUDERGEM, or AUVERGHEM, is an ancientvillage one league from the gate of Namur on the road to Wavre. It is pleasantly situated forhunting, on the borders of the forest of Soigny.BEERSEL, or BEERSELE, is one league and aquarter from the gate of Halle, on the right of the road to Alsemberg. It has a church de- dicated to St. Lambert, in which is interredHenri de Witthem, who died in 1515.BIOURGE is a small farm near the wood ofFrischemont, within two miles of La Haye.It was occupied by the French under Count D'Erlon on the 18th of June, and from which they were driven by Bulow, on the evening of thatday.BOITSFORT is about one league and a quarter from the gate of Namur by the road of Ixelles .It is rendered particularly delightful by its situation among beautiful lakes near the forest ofSoigny, and by the picturesque scenery with which it is surrounded .BRAINE LA LEUD is a village on the right of the Nivelle road, nearly two miles from the village of Mount S. Jean. There were some British troops in that direction on the 18th of June, in front of the place, previous to the battle, and some of the French troops under Jerome Buonaparte approached very near it in the direction ofMerbe Braine, with the in- tention of turning the Duke of Wellington's position. It is necessary for the reader to be280 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS .furnished with two large plans, of the scite of the battlein order to understandthedescrip- tion given of the environs of Waterloo, etc. CORTENBERG , on the high road, two leagues fromthegate of Louvain. It is a post station,and has several excellent inns. It had formerly an abbey, in which was a large hall where the famous documents called Tables deCortenbergwere signed in 1312 .DIEGHEM, one league and a half from the gate of Schaerbeeke, has an elegant church in which is a very beautiful organ, which, it is said, cost sixty thousand florins.DROOGENBOSCH one league and a quarter from the gate of Halle by the high road, and aleague through the forest. It is remarkable for a manufactory ofprinted calicos and some paper-mills.FRISCHEMONT is a village in the forest of that name, on the left of the British position, and about two miles from La Haye Sainte on the opposite side of the road. The French were in strong position before this forest on the day ofthe battle, Blucher approached to the north of the village, and Bulow more to the south.Avery powerful division under the command of Count de Lobau, and another under Ge- neral d'Aumont, opposed the advanced guard ofthe Prussians, but reinforcements speedily.arrived, and the French were driven from it in great disorder.It was this movement of the Prussians thatcompletely decided the affair of the 18th of June.1ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS. 281GENAPPE is a post town on the direct road from Les Quatre Bras to Waterloo, and is nineteen miles and a quarter from Brussels .On the night of the 18th of June, when the Prussians were in pursuit, they overtook Buonaparte's carriage at this place, and seized it immediately. It is the same carriage that has been exhibited for some time past at the museum in Piccadilly.La Haye SainTE is a large farm-house on the road from Mount St. Jean to La BelleAlliance, and about a mile from the former place on the road to Genappe. This place was in the centre of the British position, and alittle in advance of Wellington's tree. The house received considerable injury, but not so much as some persons have described , the repairsofthe farm-house and the out-buildings have beenattended to, and the peaceable inha- bitants now enjoy their former repose. The back part of the building was much battered ,and the most dreadful carnage took place in this building between the British and the French . Amonument is erected on the sideof the building towards the road, to the me- mory of some of the officers of the second German legion who fell in the Combat.Near this place on the opposite side of the road is a hollow way, where four thou- sand men besides horses were buried in onegrave.The persons who have been employed to cut the monuments at this place and at Wa- terloo, etc. , have made numerous blunders inAa.284 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS .where four roads meet, viz. From Nivelles,Genappe, Namur, and Charleroi: it is ren- dered celebrated for one ofthe most obstinateengagements on record, except that of Wa- terloo. The British guards performed prodi- gies of valour, and resisted a force greatly superior in numbers, although the British were almost entirely without cavalry This battle has completely established the reputa- tion of our guards, in the estimation of all military men.SOIGNY, FOREST OF, exhibits a fine speci- menofthemajesty and grandeur offorest scen- ery, and the principal road through it to Wa- terloo has the most sombre appearance that canbe imagined; the extent, the regularity of the road, and the uniform appearance of the trees on each side, render it an object of con- siderable interest to strangers. This forest is about seven miles and a half in breadth, andabout nine miles in length, it has numerous defiles, and is interspersed with lakes, small valleys, brooks , hamlets, and cultivated plains.This immense mass of wood being so near the town, renders it in some degree damp and cold, particularly when the wind blows from that quarter; but on the other hand, it is usefulin attracting thunder-clouds, which discharge themselves there, bywhich thetown frequently escapes heavy storms. The forest commences about one mile and three-quarters from Brus- sels , and extends beyond Waterloo .TEN- NOODE ( SAINT JOSSE ) , formerly Ter- haegen which joined the gate of Namur, isENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS. 285principally formed ofneat houses which border the road from Louvain as far as its church.There are several good inns as well as public- houses, particularly Le Cerf and La Campagne.TERVUEREN , or VUEREN, is situated two leagues from the gate of Namur. It was for- merly a town surrounded by water and ram- parts with four gates. It has a church dedicated to St. John the Baptist, in which are the tombs of Henry I. , John II. , Antony I. ,killed in 1415 at the battle of Auricourt,John IV. , who founded in 1423the university of Louvain, Philip I., and several other dukes and duchesses of Brabant, and viscounts ofTervueren.At a short distance from the church ofTervueren, is a large building which existed in the time of the Normans, and which Margaret,daughter of King Edward and wife of John II. , made use of as her palace. It has nothing remarkable except a chapel which was built there by the archduke Albert, on the place where Saint Hubert, the founder of Tervueren, expired in 727.Not far from this chapel is a beautifulcanal , at each end of which is a lake . Nearone of these lakes is the ruined castle whichwas built by Charles duke of Lorraine, in 1765. By the side of the canal is the magni- ficent enclosure known under the name of thePark, surrounded by a wall which was begun in 1625, and finished in 1632. This park, as well as that of the white stags on the side of it,386 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS .is ornamented with beautiful pieces of water and pleasant walks, which cross it in every direction and extend to the extremity of this vast domain.The principal inns at Tervueren are, Le Renard, l'Empereur, and Le Miroir .TROIS FONTAINES, or RANSBEECK, a hamlet about one league and three - quarters from the Porte du Rivage, on the left of the canal . It is most agreeablysituated where all the boats and diligences stop There are several very good inns and public-houses which are very well frequented. Itderives its name ofThree Fountains, from a colunın which disperseswater on three sides; the water of this foun- tain is considered extremely good, and is generally prefered by strangers.UCCLE, or OCCLE, is situated three-quarters ofa league from the gate of Halle. Its juris- diction was formerly very extensive, having not less than one hundred villages under sub- jection. It has a church dedicated to St. Peter, which was consecrated in 804, by Pope Leo III. whilst on his way to Brussels. About thirty years ago this church was rebuilt in an elegant style. A quarter of a league from Brussels are the remains of an ancient conventcalled Bootendael, which formerly belonged to Hinckaert, a counsellor of the duke ofBrabant. After making use of it as a her- mitage he converted it into a convent, which was in great part destroyed in 1579, but re- established by the munificence of the arch- duke Albert and archduchess Isabella.ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS . 287VEEWEY, DE, a hamlet near Anderlecht,three-quarters of a league from the gate of Anderlecht. It has a water-mill and severalmanufactories .VILVORDE, anciently VILFORD, a small town,one league and three-quarters from the gate of Rivage on the right of the canal. It was formerly considered impregnable, and remains of its fortifications are still visible. Theparochial church is a Gothic building, on the top ofwhich is a telegraph, erected in 1809.Ithad formerly a nunnery, which was one of the most ancient in the Netherlands, having existed in 1065. It is now converted into aprison, or house of correction, which is very large, and which contains a place for crimi- nals and a separate establishment for mendicants.William Tindal, who first translated the New Testament into English, suffered mar- tyrdom at Vilvorden in 1536.VIVIER-DOYE, a hamlet near Uccle, aleague from the gate of Halle: on the road leading to Boitsfort, and on the right of that leading to Carloo . Near this place are the ruins of fort Jaco.VLESEMBEEK, one league and three-quarters fromthe canton of Anderlecht, was formerly a lordship belonging to the Counts of Tiri- mont. It has a church dedicated to the VirginMary.Vos-CAPELLE, or Chapelle de St. Eloy, is a hamlet with a chapel, two leagues and a288 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS.quarter from the gate of Louvain, on the oldroad of Louvain. WAMBEECK, a large hamlet a little to the Jeft of Steen Ockerseel, has a chapel now in ruins, supposed to have been built by SaintPharailde.WATERLOO ( Village of). This village is nearly at the extremity oftheforest ofSoigny, in the direct road from Brussels , and ten miles and a quarter from the latter place. It is ren- dered memorable, as connected with the most bloody, and most extraordinary battle that has ever been recorded on the page of history. The village is of considerable size, and the church in particular will attract the attention of strangers, not only from the neat appear- ance which it presents, and the interesting form which it assumes on approaching the place from the forest of Soigny; but, as it contains numerous records of departed worth. More than a mile from Waterloo is thehamlet of Mont St. Jean, containing nothing remarkable to attract the attention of the stranger. At this place the road is divided. The branch on the left conducts to Genappe, and that on the right to Nivelles. Halfa mile in advance of the village is the farm-house of Mont-St. -Jean, on the road to the farm of La-Haye-Sainte, and inthe immediate rear ofthe British position. The traveller pursues the road to Genappe, and passes by the farm of Mont-St.-Jean. The forest has quite dissappeared . The road suddenly rises , and an easy ascent leads to aENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS . 289kind of ridge. This ridge and the ground behind it were occupied by the British army.The corn again waves over the fields that were so lately dyed with blood, and almost all the dreadful traces of slaughter have ceased to appear. Sufficient objects, however, re- main to enable the tourist to form a correctidea ofthe positions of the contending armies ,and the very places on which most of those heroic deeds were performed, that will ever be emblazoned in the records of fame. We havepointed out these land-marks, which will enablehim easily to follow the historian in his description ofthis glorious and decisive battle.The generality of the historians of that day have given very erroneous estimates of the respective forces of Napoleon and the Duke of Wellington, and very uncandid and untrue accounts of the progress and termination of the battle. They forgot that the unrivalled skill of the British commander, and the unconquerable bravery of his troops, needed no false and exaggerated statements to gain the applause and gratitude of the present age,and the admiration of posterity.When the traveller ascends the ridge, he will observe a solitary tree raising its straggling branches and yet bearing evident marks of thebullets that had shattered its trunk. Thiswas the centre of the British position, and as the Duke of Wellington was posted on this spot during the greater part of the day, it is immortalized by the name of the Wellington tree.Bb290 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS.The British lines extended along this ridge to the right and left, defended on the left by a hedge which stretches from Mont-St.-Jeantowards Ohain. On the extreme right, fol- lowing the natural direction of the ridge,they turned back towards Brussels, and were protected by a ravine, In front is a little valley, not regularly formed, but with nu- merous gentle windings and hollows. It va- ries in breadth from a quarter to half a mile.This was the scene of the murderous conflict.The opposite ridges, running parallel to Mont- St. -Jean, were occupied by the French.Relics of the battle, consisting of helmets,cuirasses , sabres, etc. will be offered to the stranger. Amost exorbitant price will some- times be demanded; and occasionally no little abuse will be lavished on him if he refusesto become a purchaser.In a house near the church, the Earl ofUxbridge had his leg amputated, and the leg was buried in the garden; an inscription de- notes the situation. Strangers are permittedto visit it.The inn opposite Waterloo church has the following sign:-P. J. J. Theys A l'An- cien Jeana Nivilles on loge a pied et on cheval, etc. The next inn was occupied by the Duke of Wellington as his head-quarters, and from whence he sent his important despatches to England by Major Percy; on the sign is in- scribed, Au Grand Quartier General of the Duke of Wellington.ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS . 291WATERMAEL, a league from the gate of Namur, on the right ofthe road to Wavre, is a lordship which has belonged to several kings and noblemen. Its church is dedicated toPope Clement, and the chateau is still to beseen.WAVRE is a considerable town on the leftof Waterloo, and seventeen miles from Brussels on the road to Gembloux. It was thehead-quarters of Prince Blucher, on the 17th of June, where he retired after the affair at Ligny, on the plains of Fleurus. The corps of General Grouchy attacked the Prussians under General Thielmann on the 18th, withthe intention of cutting off the British on the road to Brussels; but in consequence of the obstinacy of the defence , he was compelled to abandon his purpose.WEMMEL, one league and a half from the gate of Flanders, formerly belonged to the family de Taye. Ithas a church dedicated to St. Servais .WESEMBEECK, one league and a half from the gate of Louvain, on the right ofthat road,wasin 1501 a lordship of the family ofSweerts,and afterwards of the family of Burbure. Its church is dedicated to St. Peter, and thechateau is surrounded by beautiful walks ,remarkable for a source which springs from the right of the walk leading to the chateau,and which is adorned with curious grottos.WOLUWE ( The ) is a small and pleasant river, which takes its source in the forest of Soigny on the right of Boitsfort, and after292 ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS.watering a great part of the adjacent country,falls into the Senne near Vilvorde.WOLUWE, ST. ETIENNE, or in Flemish,Weuben, is situated on the road a league from the gate ofLouvain. It was formerly alordship belonging to the family ofBerchem,and has a church dedicated to St. Etienne.It has several lime-kilns , and near it at a place called Niew Huysen, formerly stood two pa- vilions, whichwere the hunting seats of the Archduchess Maria Elizabeth.WOLUWE- SAINT LAMBERT, or in Flemish,op Weulen, is a league from the gate of Lou- vain, was formerly a lordship of the family of Boischot. The multitude and variety of lakes in its vicinity, form many delightfulprospects.WOLUWE- ST. PIERRE, is situated on theright of Woluwe-Saint Lambert, to which it is subject. It was a lordship of the family of Berchem, and has a church dedicated to St.Peter.YETTE, three-quarters of a league from the gate of Flanders, has several chateaux and country residences in its vicinity.YSSCHE, or OVER-YSSCHE, is three leagues from the gate of Namuron the road to Wavre.This place was formerly ranked as a town,and has a large and beautifulchurch dedicated to the Holy Trinity and to St. Martin. It had formerly anunnery. A fairis held there.The environs, the truly picturesque situation ,and the neatness and elegance of the houses,render Yssche worthy of particular attention.ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS . 293ZELLICK, formerly Sellika, one league and aquarter from the gate ofFlanders on the left of the road, and a considerable part of it on the road, formerly belonged to the dukes of Brabant, and was afterwards a lordship of the count of Konigsegg-Erps. It has a church dedicated to St. Quirin.ZUENE ( The ) , a small river which takes itssource near Bogaerden on the right of the road of Enghien, discharges itself into theSenne below Foret. It gives name to a large hamlet remarkable for the number of itsorchards .SECT. XVIII. Route from Brussels toMaestricht.Posts. Miles .Brussels to Cortenberg .......Cortenberg to Louvain ....... ILouvain to Tirlemont .......Tirlemont to Saint Trond. ...1142424 Saint Trond to Tongres ...... 24 Extra charge for 3d Horse.Tongres to Maestricht ........ 2Extra Charge for 3d Horse.124............94812.... 12.... 12.... 1268- --Quitting Brussels by the gate of Louvain the traveller passes through the suburb of St. Joosterten-Noode. When he has ascendedв b.294 LOUVAIN.the hill, he should turn and once more com- template the delightful vale in which the city is placed. The river Senne and the canal areseen at intervals through the whole valley,and as they wind to issue from each extre- mity, they seem to be shut in by an insuper- able barrier. Numerous small streams branchoff from the main river. and divide the littlehills that surround the plain. Brussels occu- pies the centre of the valley, and appears to be placed there to add the noblest ornaments of art to the unrivalled beauties of nature .Bidding farewell to this delightful spot, he leaves Schaerebeck and Evere on the left.Then passing through Saint- Stevens-Woluwe,he leaves Cranheim on the right, and Saven- them and Nosseghem on the left, and arrives at the village and post-house of CORTENBERG.Here the assembly of the states of Brabant used to be held .Leaving Cortenberg, he passes Erps and Quarebbe on the left. The road then lies through the hamlet of Schomar, after which Beyssem and Wethem are on the left. He then passes along a wood, and leaving Winxel on the left, arrives at Laesten-Stuyver. Here is a hill known by the name of the «Iron Mountain, because its whole substance is impregnated with iron ochre. A great part of the road from Brussels to Louvain is bordered with trees, and the most pleasant pro- spects are continually offered to the view.LOUVAIN is a large but ill-built town of acircular form on the Dyle. The walls, surLOUVAIN. 295mounted by ten bulky turrets fast hastening to decay, are nearly seven miles in circum- ference; but the principal space is occupied by gardens and vineyards. Its foundationhas been attributed to Julius Cæsar. Its chieftraffic is in beer, of which there are three kinds, the strongest, called Peterman, the exportation of which was formerly forbidden;the Caniak, which is the common table- beer of the superior classes in Louvain; and the beer of Louvain, which is exported to every part of the Netherlands .Louvain contains about 40,000 inhabitants.In the 14th century it is said to have contained 150,000, and to have been celebrated for its cloth manufactories; but the emigration ofthe clothiers in the time of Wenceslaus, Duke ofBrabant, was a blow which it never reco- vered.The Catholic University at Louvain, for- merly the most eminent in Europe, was sup- pressed, and converted by the French into an hospital for invalids. By an edict, however, dated February 19, 1817 , it is ordered that this institution shall be re-established.The Town-hall is much admired. The numerous carved figures that enrich the front exhibit, even amidst the decays of time, evi- dent tracesofthe most exquisite workmanship.It is the most perfect and beautiful specimen of this kind of Gothic architecture in Belgium, or perhaps in the world.The Collegiate Church yields to few in the Netherlands. It was formerly ornamentedby296 MONTAIGNE, ARSCHOT,a spire of the extraordinary height of nearly 500 feet, which, without any apparent cause,suddenly fell to the ground in the beginning of the 17th century.A parochial church, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, is remarkable for its noble simplicity.Afair of ten days begins on the first Sunday in September for every kind ofmerchandise.The best inn is the Hotel de Cologne .Sixteen miles N.E. of Louvain is MONTAIGNE.famous for a supposed miraculous image of the Virgin Mary.Four miles west of Montaigne is ARSCHOT,This town was in the 12th century the capital of a barony, and gave title to a noble family of the name of Arschot.When the traveller comes from Louvainthe Park is on his right; he then passes through Corbeek-Overloo, and the end of Lovenjoul,and after skirting a wood, arrives at a steep hill. Bautersem next presents itself. The road then passes through some meadows to the river Velp; crossing which , Wertrycht is on the right, and Nerbutzelon on the left;then leaving Roosbeeck at a little distance,we arrive at the valley and barrier of Tirlemont.TIRLEMONT was formerly a considerable city, but suffered much by a fire in 1704, and was almost entirely ruined by the wars of the revolution. Near the gate going to Saint Trond are three enormous artificial mounds,TIRLEMONT. 297supposed to have been erected by some of the barbarous tribes in commemoration ofvictory.This The church of Notre Dame in the great square was served by married priests. This deviation from the Romish ritual, renders the building an object of some curiosity to the traveller, and the clergymen were distin- guished by the epithet of «Prêtres à Poule,»or Pullet-Priests.Near Tirlemont the Austrians were defeated by the French in 1792, but beat them on the sameground in the following year. It has a considerable trade in grain and geneva;but its manufactories of woollen stuffs havemuch declined. The inhabitants are 8,000 .The square in the centre of the town is un- usually large, and the town-hall situated in it is a building of great antiquity.The road from Tirlemont, although it can- not claim the title of romantic, is exceedingly pleasing, from the evident proofs which it gives ofthe wealth and fertility ofthe country.Comfortable farmhouses, populous villages,and neat cottages present themselves in almost uninterrupted succession.The soil is extremely fertile, consisting of ahappy mixture of sand with light clay.As we quit Tirlemont, Rost is on the right and Grunde on the left. Crossing the river we soon come to Haed, and passing near Haeckdenover, arrive at the valley and mea- dows ofBoschelle, opposite to Overhespen and

298 LANDEN. SAINT-TROND .Neerhespen. Aroad is here continued straight to LANDEN, famous for the bloody victory gained in the neighbouring plain ofNeerwin- denby the French over the Allies in 1693, and by the Austrians over the French in 1793. It is a town of much antiquity, and was the residence of the Dukes of Brabant. It now,however, is merely a confused mass of cot- tages surrounded by dilapidated walls. Pepin,first Duke of Brabant, and founder of the Carlovingian dynasty, died, and was buried here in 647. The ruins of his palace are yet to be traced. The names of many villages in the neighbourhood testify that this was formerly a royal residence, as Pepins-Hoff or the court of Pepin; Raths-Hoven, or the Court of the Council; Alten-Hoven, or the Old Court; Arent-Garden, or the Falconry.The road of Saint-Trond bends to the left,and leaves Landen three miles on the south.Pursuing this road, and passing through Gut senhoven, we arrive at the river Gette; then traversing the meadows for one mile and ahalf, crossing a rivulet, and passing near Orsmael, we soon arrive at Halle. Leau is now on the left , and the hill and plain where was fought the battle of 1568. Then come the valley and marsh of Asbrock, beyond which, leaving Halmael on the right, and passing the bridge, mill, and rivulet ofStayen,and alittle hill, we reach Saint-Trond.SAINT-TROND is a very ancient town plea- santly situated, with a venerable BenedictineSAINT- TROND.-TONGRES . 299Abbey. Itwas formerly aplace ofgreat note,when thousands of pilgrims repaired to the shrine of Saint-Trond every year at Easter. Quitting St. Trond, St. Pierre is on the right, and Brustem on the left; we then pass a hill, a river and a bridge, leaving Nerin on the right. A little afterwards we quit the road to Liege, and turn to the left; Rickel is soon on our left, and Groot- Gelmet on ourright. Then passing a hill, we arrive at Melshoven. Crossing the river Herck, and aconsiderable hill, we have Mettechoven on our right, and Voordt on our left. We now ascend a steep hill, pass the road which con- ducts to Looz, rapidly descend, cross the valley, and soon afterward leave Groot-Loon on our left. We then go close by Bovers- hoven, and leaving Hiren on our left, cross ahill, on the other side of which is a river andbridge with Pirange on the left. We then ascend another hill, with a steep descent on the other side, cross the valley, and leaving Belau and Mulcken on the left, and Coning- sheim on the right, arrive at Tongres.TONGRES or TONGEREN on the Jecker, is said to have been built by Tongrus its first king,one hundred years before the foundation of Rome. It was the capital of Gallia Belgica,and numerous Roman coins are often discovered in the neighbourhood. It was sacked by Attila, king ofthe Huns, in 455, and has often suffered by war. The cathedral is sup- posed to be the most ancient on the north of300 MAESTRICHT.1the Alps. Tongres possesses several mineral springs, which are mentioned by Pliny, and said to rival in virtue the celebrated watersof the Spa. It contains about 3,000 inha- bitants.After quitting Tongres we travel over some most miserable road, and leaving Berg and Henis on the left , and Malle and Sluse on the right, andthen crossing a valley, Groes-Helde- ren is on the left. Wenow pass near Melin, and soon afterwards leave Falle on our right, and Herderen on our left. Then going through Rymps, leaving Vletighem on the left, and Montenaken and Wilre on the right, and crossing a valley, we arrive at Maestricht.MAESTRICHT is a beautiful town on theMeuse, very strongly fortified, and lately the capital of the department of the lower Meuse.Itcommunicates with Wyk by a stone bridge,of eight stone arches, with a wooden arch in the centre, which may be expeditiously taken to pieces on the approach of an enemy. Thebridge is much admired and is 500 feet in length.Maestricht was called by the Romans Tra- jectum Superius, the name of Trajectum Inferius being given to Utrecht.The There are two principal squares.Town-hall is in the centre of one of them, inwhich the market is held. It is constructedin imitation of that of Amsterdam. Theinterior of the building is commodious and elegant; and on the third floor is the cityMAESTRICHT. 301library, consisting of a good selection of mo- dern books.The other square contains more handsomebuildings, and is agreeably planted with trees .The church of St. Servatius is built in themost simple style of architecture, yet pleases the spectator by the propriety and grandeur of its general appearance.The churches of St. Matthew and St. Johnare withgreat liberality, resigned to the Dutchprotestants. The Lutherans likewise have aneat and well-frequented chapel.The chiefmanufactories are of leather, pins,soap, brandy, and fire-arms. The boots and shoes of Maestricht are unrivalled for strength and durability. If so trivial a circumstance may be recorded in a work like the present,the traveller will not forget that the ginger- bread ofthis town is most excellent, and is in great- request in every part of Flanders. The breweries are likewise much celebrated. Thenumber of inhabitants are 18,000. They are principally Catholic, but the magistrates are chosen equally from the professors of the catholic and reformed religion, or ratherthere is a magistrate for each profession .Aroyal college is about to be established in Maestricht.Maestricht is remarkable for the great pro- portion of inhabitants who possess a moderate competence: the society is consequently pecu- liarly desirable. The ramparts afford some pleasant walks, as does the neighbourhoodCC302 MAESTRICHT.ofthe arsenal, and the banks of the Meuse,overhung by steep and romantic rocks, parti- cularly near the church of the Virgin. The chief inns are the Hare, the Helmet, the Half- Moon (Halve Maan), the Post-Horse (Post- Paard), the Three Kings, the Greyhound,and the Windmill.Aboat goes every day from Maestricht to Liege in six hours. Two fairs of fifteen days each commence on May 13th, and the second Sunday in September.In 1579 Maestricht was besieged by the Prince ofParma. The patriots offered a brave resistance, and baffled many furious assaults made by the best troops of Spain; but the garrison being fatigued after a hard day's contest, neglected some necessary precaution.The eagle eye of the Spanish commander dis- covered the neglect. He led his troops to asudden attack, and made himself master of the ramparts ere the patriots were aware of his approach. The whole of the garrison was put to the sword. An indiscriminate mas- sacre of the inhabitants then commenced;and out of8,000, who had borne arms against the besiegers, only 300 escaped.Near Maestricht in the hill of St. Peter is astone quarry, the subterranean passages of which extend four leagues in length, and branch off to the distance of a league on each side. There are said to be 160,000 differentavenues, each twelve feet wide, and varying from six to twenty-four feet in height. OfHASSELT. DIEST.-SICHEM, &c. 303all the persons employed in the quarries, not more than a dozen are acquainted with the intricacies of the passages.The workmenusually hang a lantern on the necks of the horses, and then commit themselves to the instinct of these animals, who never fail to extricate them safely from the mazes of the labyrinth. Many avenues have fallen in,owing to the negligence or avarice of the proprietors , for every holder of land has aright to explore under his own fields .Several of the inhabitants ofMaestricht pos- sess extensive collections of the fossil remainsthat have been discovered in this immense

  • quarry.

1From the summit of the hill is an extensiveand beautiful view ofthe town, the river, andthe surrounding country.I must here mention the little town ofHASSELT on the left of the road which we havebeen describing. Itis allowed to be the pret- tiesttownin Liege, though its fortifications are all demolished. At the distance of a league is the noble abbey of Hesenkenrode.DIEST is on the Demer, twenty miles N. Ε.of Louvain. It carries on a considerable manufacture of cloth andstockings, and is said to produce very fine beer.SICHEM, four miles w. of Diest, has a largeinonastery.JUDOIGNE is fifteen miles s . S. E, of Louvain .The ruins of an ancient castle are seen here,in which the Dukes of Brabant used to educatetheir children.304 ROUTE FROM MAESTRICHT .SECT. XIX.-Route from Maestricht toRuremonde.Wewill here delineate thecourse of the Meuseuntil it touches the territories of Prussia, thatour work may not be left incomplete; but the traveller will find the more beautifulscenery of this river between Maestricht and Namur which we shall presently describe. We shall enumerate the places which occur on the post-road. This skirts the river during the whole distance, and commands its most interesting views.Posts. Miles.IIMaestricht to Reckem........Extra charge for 3d horse.Reckem to Susteren..........Extra charge for 3d horseSusteren to Ruremonde...... 2Extra charge for 3d horse.............8481254 29Soon after quitting Maestricht we ascend asteep hill, leaving Opharen on the right, on the other side of the river; Lonaken is nowon the left. Then succeeds a hill , on the other side of which is a river; beyond this is Iteern on the left, and passing near Neerharen, and crossing another river, we reach Reckem .Beyond Reckem is another rivulet. Gremi is then on the left, and Borsem on the right.Crossing another river the road goes throughRUREMONDE. VENLOO . 305Mechelen and Wacht, beyond which is Esden ontheleft. The traveller now comes to Locdt,and leaving the wood of Stockem on his left,crosses a river; and having Maeswick on his right , and Lanlaert on his left, arrives at Stockem. Quitting Stockem, Obliche is on his right on the other side of the Meuse. He then crosses another river, passes through Dilsen,leaves Papenhoven on his right, visits Rothem,follows the course of a river for a little distance, traverses Eclen, crosses another river,and leaving Heppener on the right, arrives at Maseyck, where he crosses the Meuse, and soon reaches Susteren. Quitting Susteren he leaves Hacken on is right, and passing through Lin ne arrives at RuremondeRUREMONDE is situated at the conflux of theIts Roer with the Meuse. Mercator the geographer was born here. Its manufactories are ribands and velvets, and the number of inha- bitants is 4,000. A fair of eight days begins on June the 13th .Twelve miles N. of Ruremonde is VENLOObelonging to Prussia, but on the very borders of the Netherlands. It contains 4,000 inhabitants, and is a depôt for merchandise from all the countries bordering on the Meuse and the Rhine. The invention of bombs is attributed to an inhabitant of Venloo. Fairs offifteen days each begin May Ist, and June 24th,

C C.306 ROUTE FROM MAESTRICHT .SECT. XX. Route from Maestricht through Aix-la- Chapelle to Liege.Posts. Miles.Maestricht to Aix-la-Chapelle.. 4Extra charge for 3d horse.Aix-la-Chapelle to Battice .... 3Extra charge for 3d horse.Battice to Liege............…2............2291613452+As in the next route the traveller will be conducted through the beautiful scenery of the Meuse, we shall here take him alittle circuit tovisit Aix-la-Chapelle, which, though now at- tached to Prussia, is too near the boundaries of the Netherlands, and too interesting to be overlooked.Crossing the Meuse, and leaving Opharen on his left, the traveller goes through Wyk,which is the suburb of Maestricht, then pas- sing Lumel on his left, he crosses the river, and leaving Heughem, Heer, and Keer, on his right, arrives at Ambi. Then climbing arapid ascent and leaving Bemelem on his right, and Saint-Ghierlach, Holtem, and Berg on his left, he comes to Terbleyt, He now descends a hill, and leaves Fauquemont on his left.Fauquemont or Valkenburg enjoys all the privileges of the largest city. It is the ancient Coriovallum. Two venerable monasteries inVAELS. 307the neighbourhood will repay the stranger's curiosity.Huntem and Mariengrat are now on the right, and after a rapid ascent leaving Strucht on the left, and as rapid a descent, and skirting a small wood with Cartrels on the left, the road lies through Gulpen. Then crossing the riverGulp, and a small hill with Pesken on the right, and soon afterwards Simpelvelt on the left, the traveller arrives at Wittem. Henext crosses another river, goes through Partney, climbs and immediately descends ahill, passes near Mechelen, leaves Nieswiler on the left and Epen on the right, and reaches Holset or Helsart. Traversing a little wood,and leaving Lemiers on the left, he passes through Vaels at the distance of a league from Aix-la-Chapelle . This village contains many cloth-manufac- tories on an extensive and magnificent scale.They are principally confined to the use of Spanish wool, and some numerous flocks of Merino sheep are kept in the neighbourhood.Vaels will afford considerable pleasure to the enlightened traveller on account of the li- beral spirit that prevails in it. It is almost equally inhabited by Catholics, Lutherans ,Anabaptists, and Jews; yet in a country usually too intolerant, these different sects live to- gether in perfect harmony and sociality.The traveller now crosses a little river, and ascending, and again speedily descending ahill, he at length arrives at Aix-la-Chapelle,embosomed in a beautiful vale.308 AIX- LA- CHAPELLE.AIX-LA- CHAPELLE was formerly an imperial city, and sent deputies to the diet of the em- pire. It was built by the Romans, was pil- laged by the Huns in 451, and rebuilt by Charlemagne, who fixed his residence here.Its name is derived from its warm baths, and the chapel built by Charlemagne. The em- perors of Germany used to be crowned here with great pomp. Ferdinand, the brother of Charles V. was the last monarch who receivedthe crown in this place. It then contained more than 100,000 inhabitants, but the impo- litic illiberality of the trading guilds or cor- porations drove most of the industrious me- chanics to other places .The Town-hall is a Gothic edifice possessing little remarkable except its ancient towers, one of which is called the Tower of Granus, andwas built by the Romans, and the spacious hall in which the Emperors dined in public on the day of their coronation. Opposite is a foun- tain interesting on account of its antiquity,and the exquisite statue of gilt copper of Charlemagne with which it has been adorned.Thestatue is placed on apedestal in the centre of a basin 30 feet in circumference. TheGreat Church was built by the Emperor Otho,who was crowned here in 983. Part of his tomb of black marble yet remains, but it has been sadly mutilated and contracted, because it was supposed to obstruct the view of the principal altar.TheEmperors were usually crowned in the Cathedral, until the middle of the 14th cenAIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 309tury, when the place of coronation was re- moved to Frankfort on the Maine.The choir of this church is an exquisite spe- cimen of Gothic architecture. The noble coJumns that once adorned the edifice, were taken away by the French during the Revo- lution. They are now to be seen in the Royal Museum at Paris .Among other relics of antiquity, the Great Church contains the tomb of Charlemagne, of singular beauty, but the demand for shewing it is very exorbitant. Under the dome is amassy chair of white marble in which his body was placed in the tomb, and on which the Emperors used afterwards to sit at their coro- nation.Aplain stone is likewise shewn with this simple inscription «Carolo Magno.» Under- neath were deposited the remains of this illus- trious monarch. His body was afterwards removed from its peaceful abode, and some golden vessels richly ornamented are exibited which are said to contain many of his bones.Charlemagne was born at Aix, it was his fa- vourite place of residence, and here he closed his eventful life.This chuch contains a variety of curious re- lics. Some of them are of inestimable value.They are enclosed in a shrine of solid gold ,and were formerly exhibited to the sacred eyes of majesty alone. They are now, however,publicly displayed on the altar every seventh year; and devotees crowd from the most dis- tantparts to gaze uponthem, and to experience310 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE .the miraculous powers which they yet retain.They consist of the swaddling-cloths, and the winding-sheet of the blessed Saviour, the robe of the Virgin Mary and the shroud of John the Baptist.Other relics are daily exhibited to those who are willing to pay for the privilege of behold- ing such sacred things. The catalogue of these is long and interesting. The traveller will particularly notice some of the manna by which the Israelites were miraculously fed in.the wilderness; the leathern girdle of the Sa- viour, and the linen one of his holy mother;some of the hair of the Virgin; a fragment of the cross, and the head and arm of the Em- peror Charlemagne.Previous to the Revolution, this sacred cata- logue was swelled by numerous other myste- rious articles . Onthe approach of the French ,these treasures were hastily conveyed into the interior of Germany, and placed under the safe custody of the Emperor; but when the danger was passed, and the holy relics were reclaimed, that monarch retained some of them as the price of the protection which he afforded the rest. Among the articles thus withheldwere the sword ofCharlemagne, some of the earth that was died with the blood ofthe martyr Stephen, and acopy of the Gospel written in letters of gold.The streets of this city are spacious, andpos- sess some handsome buildings, particularly in the quarter called Compthausbad.The hill of Louisberg affords a noble viewAFX- LA-CHAPELLE. 311of the city and neighbouring country. An obelisk was erected upon it in honour ofNa- poleon. After his disgraceful retreat from Saxony, the Cossacks hurled it from its situa- tion, and completely destroyed even the foundations, to obtain the coins that were de- posited there. The King of Prussia, much to his honour, has caused the obelisk to be again erected, but it bears evident marks of the in- jury it sustained. The inscriptions in praise of Napoleon, have been erased, and others substituted descriptitive of his rapid and total overthrow.On the side of the hill is a chapel crowded with images, concerning each of which some pious, but incredible legend is told. Along procession of devout worshippers issues from Aix every Lent to prostrate themselves before these sacred shrines ,The scenery on the north of Aix is exceedinglydiversified and picturesque, especially on and around the hills of Salvatorberg and Weingartsberg.Aix-la-Chapelle is principally celebrated for its warm baths which are much frequented.They contain a considerable portion of super- sulphurated-hydrogen gas, and are at the ex- traordinary temperature of 143° Fahrenheit.The taste is at first exceedingly nauseous to the stranger, but he gradually becomes ha- bituated to it, and derives considerable bene- fit if afflicted with any cutaneous or scrofulous disease. The external use of the baths is like312 AIX-LA- CHAPELLE.wise remarkably efficacious in the cureofmany cutaneous eruptions .The waters of Aix contain likewise muchsaline matter, principally carbonate and mu- riate ofsoda , and carbonate of lime; they are,consequently, useful in cases of visceral ob- struction, and in all diseases of the digestiveorgans.One spring, called the Campas, is cold.This is less strongly impregnated with sul- furous and saline matter and less efficaciousin the removal of disease, but it is much used on account of its temperature, and because it is less nauseous to the taste.The principal seasons for frequenting the baths are before and after that of Spa, from the beginning of May to the middle of June,and from the middle ofAugust to the end of September.The expense of bathing and drinking the waters, depends on the pocket and pride of the visitor. The prices of the baths are va- rious, regulated more by the rank which eachoccupies in the scale of fashion, than by any material difference in their medicinal proper- ties. At the Queen of Hungary, the price is onlya franc each time, if used for more than a week; or a franc and a half for a single bathing. The vapour-bath is two francs and a half. If the invalid chooses tolodge at this bath, he is charged the small sum of four francs and a half for his bed-room, breakfast,and daily bathing. At the other baths, the expense is considerably more; and, indeed,AIX- LA- CHAPELLE . 313the usual charge at the hotels at Aix may be truly said to be shamefully exhorbitant.Aix contains 27,000 inhabitants, and has atheatre, and a garden resembling the Vaux- hall of the British metropolis .The principal manufactures are wollen- cloths , Prussian blue, ammonia , and white soap. The needle manufactory is not infe- rior to any in Europe, and will be viewed with considerable interest by the traveller, Messrs.Jecker's manufactory of pins should likewise be visited: 150 or 180 pounds of pins are often made in a week, each pound containing about 1,000 pins .Among the benevolent institutions of Aix should be noticed that which was foundedby the Empress Josephine in the former convent of St. Theresa. It is a school for the education of the children of the poor, and a place of refuge for the indigent of every descrip- tion. The good effects of this institution are universally acknowledged. The streets of Aix once swarmed with beggars, who were the very nuisance of the place; and now amendicant is rarely seen .The chief inns are the Grand Monarque, the Holland Hotel, the Golden Dragon, the Great St. Martin, the Imperial Court, the Stranger's Hotel, the Palatine Court, and the Grand Hotelopposite to the bath. The best coffee-housesare the Italian in Cologne-street, and the Old and New Redoubte on the Compthausbad.The most frequented walks are the garden ofGetschembourg, the park ofDrimsbors, the Dd314 LIMBURG . -BORCETTE .promenade of Mount-Louis, and near the gate ofSt Adalbert.Aix-la-Chapelle lays claim to some peculiar immunities and privileges. The extent of its jurisdiction is thereforevery carefully marked;anda little circle not extending a mile from the walls, and bounded by a simple quickset hedge, is ludicrously called the kingdom of Aix-la-Chapelle.Diligences set out for Cologne every day at five o'clock in the morning, and for Liege at seven o'clock. Coaches go to Maestricht three times every week .On the traveller's return to the Meuse hepasses through the most fruitful part of the DuchyofLimburg, wellknown for thefertility of its soil , the excellence of its manufactures,and its immense population. Therich pastu- rage maintains a multitude of cattle, whichafford a butter peculiarly delicate; and acheese, that to vulgar senses would be said to have a rank taste, and aninsufferably stink- ing smell, but whichis in great request among the epicures of the neighbouring countries ,and called the Hervé cheese.Limburg contains some rich and almost inexhaustible mines of calamine and zinc. Itis likewise celebrated for very large manufac- tories of the finest cloth, although the nool of the country is by no means excellent. The principalpart ofwhat is consumed in the cloth manufactories is imported from Spain.When the traveller leaves Aix-la-Chapelle,CORCETTE is on the left. This town is romanBORCETTE . 315tically situated amidst numerous little emi- nences, beautifully clothed with wood and pasture. The vapours, which burst fromthe ground in many places, announce the proxi- mity ofsulphureous springs; and a rivulet of hot water runs close to the town. All thebaths of Aix, except the Campus-bath, are supplied from Borcette.The Abbey of Borcette is a stately and ve- nerable structure; and the inn in the old castlewill afford no despicable accominodation to the traveller,The spirit ofgaming once prevailed at Aix toalamentable extent. It was become almostuniversal. The morals of the people were rapidly deteriorating, and crimes and wretch- edness daily multiplied. The magistrates were seriously alarmed, and forbad all games of hazard within the city, under very severe penalties.Many of the visitors of Aix, incurably at- tached to this destructive vice, were offended at the interference of the civil power, and retired to Borcette. The comparative cheap- ness of provisions at this little town induced others to follow their example, and Borcette now contains at all times a considerablenumber of strangers .The magistrates ofAix soon deemed it expe- dient to permit the different games of hazard to be again played in their city under certain restrictions; and during the watering season ,several gambling-houses are open, which pay aheavy sum to the Government for their li316 EUPEN .cense. The most frequented of these are theNew Redoubt on the Compthausbad, and ahouse called Kelschenbourg near the gate of St. Adalbert. Here, as at other places of the same dangerous description in other countries ,the banker is compelled to cover the stake of every player; but that stake must not be less thana crown until ten o'clock at night, when so little as a half-crown may be staked until midnight. At that hour the tables are order- ed to be broken up.In its cloth and needle manufactories Borcetterivals Aix, and these articles maybepurchased here at a cheaper rate than at Aix. The cloths exported to the Levant are uncommonly fine and beautiful.The traveller now passes a wood when Mo- resnet is on his right, and Hergenraet on the left. Then crossing a river and a hill, and leaving Montzon on his right, and Lontzen on his left, he arrives at Henri-Chapelle. Soon afterwards he passes Clermont on the right,and Limburg and Bilstain on the left; then Thimister on the right, and Cleneux on the left, and crossing a hill arrives at Hervé.Onthe left of the road from Aix to Limburgis EUPEN, containing 10,000 inhabitants, sup- ported by the manufacture and dyeing of woollen-cloths. Great quantities of blue cloth and kerseymere are exported to the Levant,and to every part of Europe.LIMBURG is on a mountain near the riverWese, twenty miles from Liege. Although once the capital of the duchy it is now littleHERVÉ. -VERVIERS . 317morethan a heap ofruins. Ithas a manufactory of woollen cloths, and is famous for its excellent cheese. Near it are extensive quarries ofmarble, ofwhichthe castle ofLimburg is built;and good mines of calamine and coal. Thechurch dedicated to St. George is much ad- mired.The church of St. John the Baptist at HERVÉ is very beautiful. Its manufactories of cloth and cheese have already been mentioned.NEAU is six miles from Limburg, and cele- brated for its manufactories of scarlet and bluecloth. The mountains in the neighbourhood peculiarly abound with game; but they are frequently covered with snow even in the summer, and are absolutely impassable in winter.Four miles s . w. of Limburg is VERVIERS.Although it claims no higher appellation than a village, it contains, with some neighbouring hamlets, no less than 16,000 inhabitants . The finest cloth which the Netherlands produce is manufactured here. Some of the factories ,particularly that of Mr. Hodson, are worthy the inspection of the traveller.The water of the Vesder is said to be mostexcellent for dyeing the finer woollen cloths and kerseymeres . Verviers is rapidly in- creasingpopulation and wealth, and promises to rival even the capital of Limburg.On leaving Hervé, Vaux is soon passed on the left, then ariver, beyond which is Josse on the right. The road nowlies through Semagne,and leaving St. Adelin on the left, and crossing Dd.318 LIEGE.ahill, and afterwards a river, we arrive at Aigneaux. Then leaving Magnée on the left,and Fleron on the right, and passing near Romze, we reach Beyne. Hence ascending ahill, leaving Chencé and Grivegne on the left,and Jupille on the right, we pass through Ro- bermont, and crossing the Meuse arrive at Liege.Liegewasformerlythe capitaloftheBishopric of Liege, and lately of the departement of Ourthe, and is situated at the junction of the Meuse with the Ourthe. It contains about45,000 inhabitants.Liege, was built by Embiorix , a leader of one of the tribes of the Gauls, and derives its namefrom the Roman legion, commanded by Sa- binus and Cotta, which was here surprised and totally destroyed.The riverpasses through the town in nume- rous branches, formingmany islands bordered bybeautiful quays, particularly onthe southern bank, andcommunicating bybridges ofvarious construction, the most considerable ofwhich is the «Bridge of Arches, >> so called from the loftiness of its centre arches. The mountainsare so close to the river, that the town is ex- tremely narrow. The houses are very lofty,and give a gloomy appearance to the con- tracted and ill-paved streets . The suburbsat each extremity are of considerable extent,and seeming to be a continuation of the city,give it the appearance of greater magnitude thanit reallypossesses. The unusual number of churches adds likewise to the illusion .LIEGE . 319The Palace of the Prince-Bishop is of the Ionic order, and built in the form ofa square;but the columns ofthe inner court displeasethe eye on account of their great diameter,comparedwith their height.The Town-house is a respectable edifice,and the citadel, erected on a eminence, com- mands a noble view of the town and the rivermeandering in various directions, now burst- ing full onthe sight, and again concealed by thetowering and romantic cliffs through which it urges it way.The church of St. Paul is deservedly cele- brated for the grandeur of its exterior, and for the taste with which the rich ornaments ofthe interior are arranged. Themajestic cath- edral of St. Lambert, once the ornament andpride of the city, was completely destroyed during the reign of revolutionary frenzy.Scarcely a vestige of it remains. Thefountains,particularly two in the great square, one orna- mented with statues of the Graces, and theother with that of the Virgin, deserve attention.In St. William's convent, without the city,is the tomb of the famous traveller Sir JohnMandeville.By an edict, dated Feb. 19, 1817 a univer- sity is to be established at Liege, under royal auspices.The manufactures are nails, screws , serge ,and woollen-cloths . The cloths of Liege are said by the natives to be superior to any even of British manufacture. It should be added320 DAELHEM. HERISTAL .that they are likewise dearer than the English cloths. The quantity of fire-arms made here is very great, and the cotton, paper, and gluemanufactories are much celebrated. The neighbouring country abounds with coal- mines, and much marble, granite, slate, and lime are dug from the quarries. Liege is sur- rounded by vineyards, yet the wine is far from excellent, and the juice of the grape is principally employed in the preparation of verjuice. A considerable quantity of alum,sulphate of magnesia, and muriate of lime are likewise made here. A fair which lastseight days, commences November the 2d.The Black Eagle, the Canal of Louvain, the French and English Hotels, the Golden Lion,and the Imperial Crown are the best inns.The lower classes of the inhabitants of Liegespeak a provincial dialect, which neither the Fleming, Hollander, nor Frenchman canunderstand. It is the Walloon, or, as the na- tives call it , Koeter- Walsch .Acoach goes to Brussels and Cologne everyday.The town of DAELHEM is beautifully situated, midway between Maestricht and Liege .Three miles N. of Liege is HERISTAL, on the Meuse, with a strong castle. Abundance of straw hats, and toys of various descriptions are manufactured here.ROUTE FROM LIEGE TO MONS . 321SECT. XXI Routefrom Liege to Mons.Posts.LIEGE to Choquier ........... 2Extra charge for 3d horse.Choquier to Huy. ........... 24Extra charge for 3d horse.Huy to Selayen ..........Selayen to Namur.... I............Miles.I I1222 .... IINamur to Sombref.......... 2Sombref to Courcelles ...............941341544Extra charge for 3d horse.Courcelles to Haine St. Pierre . 2Extra charge for 3d horse.Haine St. Pierre to Mons, ..... 217I2........II1398Amajestic avenue of large trees conducts from Liege on the road to Huy. The most beautiful scenery occurs on the river, and if the traveller can spare time to row against arapid stream, I certainly would recommend him to take a boat from Liege to Namur. Ishall however describe the scenery which oc- curs by land, as carriages can always proceed on the post road, andhere, more than in the route fromMaestricht to Ruremonde, the roadclosely skirts the river, and commands the greater part of its interesting scenery.The vineyards, which in the neighbourbood of Liege clothe the summit of every hill, and322 HUY.thehop-gardens that occupy the lowergrounds,have a pleasing effect. The river is closely shut in by rocks, not so elevated as those onthe Rhine, or on the river Avon at Clifton, but sufficiently lofty often to give the scenery awildand romantic appearance. Inmanyparts where the hills gently slope down to the brink of the river, and are covered with wood or pleasure-grounds, the tourist is reminded of thepleasing views on the Wye. Near Liege everypracticable spotis occupied by acountry- seat with extensive gardens, in which the owner has generally had the good sense to leave the natural beauties of the situation untouched.One lofty isolated rock , 150 feet high, is whimsically selected for the site of a pretty chateau, and the only accessible path to it is dug with much labour out ofthe face of the cliff.As the traveller proceeds from Liege, Grace is on his left, he then passes near Tileur, and after leaving Hologue on his right, and Sern- ing on his left, and crossing a small river, he reaches Flamalle; after which, leaving Val- Saint-Lambert on the left, he arrives at thePost-house at Choquier.Proceeding from Choquier, and leaving Namel on his left, he reaches Engis, and af- terwards passingSt. Severin and Hermal on his left, visits Flaune and Aunay. On the other side of the river are Neuville and Tuhange,passing them and leaving Val on the right, he crosses the Meuse toHuy.Huy is romantically situated and enclosedNAMUR. 323by lofty mountains. It is avery ancient town and mentioned in the Itinerary ofAntoninus .It contains two springs of mineral water much resorted to. It has manypaper- mills and iron foundries.Toys of all kinds, straw-hats, tin and iron utensils, excellent and cheap, are manufactu- red here. Considerable quantities of flag- stones ,whetstones, and limestones, are dug near Huy.The population scarcely amounts to 5,000 souls, yet Huy contains no less than sixteen churches and eighteen convents. In no other town of the Netherlands are the clergy sonumerous.The ancient castle, so celebrated in former times, now presents a mere heap ofruins.The principal inn is the hotel of Heaume.From this place to Namur the scenery as- sumes a grander and more romantic character;but the road does not lie so close to the river,and the traveller should sail up the stream to enjoy the prospect in full perfection. In the description of the Meuse ( page 80 ) , we have already described this interesting route. In one or two places the post-road skirts the feet of some immense rocks on the very brink of the river, and an abrupt acclivity rises 200 feet from the water; in other places the road is even cut through the base ofthe rock, which forms a vast and tremendous arch over thehead of the traveller.Immediately after leaving Huy by the post road is a steep hill, on the other side ofwhich324. NAMUR..is the village of Ahin. Here the traveller crosses a river, and leaving Basse-Oha on his right, arrives at Rein. Then he skirts a wood on his left, leaves Reppe on his right, crosses a river, ascends a hill, and passing Seilles on his right, Ardenne on his left, and afterwards Wesin on his right, arrives at the post-house ofSelayen. Proceeding thence, he passes by Flion, and soon afterwards a little hill, crosses a river, leaves Naumeche on the other side of the Meuse, and arrives at Maizeret. Thenpassing Loyers on his left, skirting a wood,going through Leves, passing Erpent on his left, and crossing a hill, he enters Namur,after traversing a superb avenue of trees, and going over a beautiful bridge of nine arches,and built of blue stone in the same style of architecture with the old bridges of Paris.NAMUR is situated in a valley between twolofty mountains, at the conflux of the Sambre and the Meuse. These mountains afford someromantic and delightful views of both rivers and the surrounding country.The castle was on the summit of one ofthese craggy rocks, and nearly impregnable .Many of the fortifications were hewn out of the solid rock. The emperor Joseph, suspi- cious of the loyalty of the Flemings, destroyed many of the bastions, and the others were demolished by the French . The cathedral is a beautiful specimen of modern architecture, of the Corinthian orderTheportico is supported by twenty-five co- lumns, with richly ornamented chapiters.NAMUR. 325The Jesuits church is a yet finer specimen of ancient architecture. The nave is sustainedby twelve red marble columns of the Ionic order, and every part of the edifice presents aprofusion of well-executed and apropriate ornament .The inhabitants are estimated at 20,000,whose principal commerce iş in fire-arms,cutlery, iron, and lead. Many iron mines in the neighbourhood employ a great part of the population. The rivers abound with carp,trout, salmon, and a species of craw-fish , so delicious that they are sent to the most distant provinces. The streets of Namur are wide and clean. The houses are built of a bluestone with red and black veins, and present awhimsical but not unpleasing appearance.The quarries in the neighbourhood are inex- haustible, and rival the finest marble. The black marble dug here is used by the Italian sculptors for their noblest productions.Asingular custom used to exist at Namur,and is not yet quite discontinued. Theyoung men of the old and new towns assembled,mounted on stilts , and forming themselves into battalions, each under the command of its captain, drew up in battle array, in the square of the town-house. At the sound of martial music, the partisans of the respective towns rushed on each other, and using their elbows and feet with incredible agility and violence, endeavoured to drive their opponents from the field of battle. The wives and mistresses of the contending parties were arrangedse326 NAMUR.on each side of the square, and entering fully into the spirit of the combat, animated the warriors to exert their utmost strength and skill . The battle sometimes raged during several hours , before either party would yield the palin of victory. Peter the Great was a delighted spectator Marshal of this strange conflict of giants.Saxe was frequently present at an exhibition which almost realized the furious and obstinate contest of disciplined armies; and it afforded so much pleasure to Duke Albert,that, on this account, he exempted the breweries of Namur from the payment ofexcise.Namur is a town ofthe highest antiquity.Some historians, deeply read in the legends ofancient times, and giving full credence to all their wild and romantic tales, have traced it to Aganippus, the cotemporary ofSolomon.Others, on better authority, have ascribed its origin to Sambron, prince of a tribe of the Germani, and from whom the river Sambre derived its name.$Namur celebrated for the long and bloody siege which it endured against King William in 1695, has often changed masters. On the death of Charles II. of Spain, it was seized by the French, and in 1713 was ceded to Austria. In 1715 it was garrisoned by Dutch troops. In 1746 it was taken by the French,but restored to the Dutch in 1748. In 1781 the Emperor Joseph expelled the Dutch gar- rison. In 1792 it was taken by the French;

GEMBLOUX. 327in 1793 retaken by the Austrians; and in 1794 again captured by the French.The Flemish, the Holland, and the Arscamp are the chief hotels .Adiligence goes from Namur to Luxemburg every Tuesday, and although the distance is scarcely 100 miles, the roads are so execrable,that the journey sometimes occupies three days. The beauty of the country, however,makes ample amends for the badness of the roads.Twelve miles N.w. of Namur is GEMBLOUX.It contains a venerable abbey dedicated to St. Benedict. Four miles from Gemblouxtowards Nivelle is the beautiful abbey of St. Villers, most romantically situated.If the traveller continues to ascend theMeuse he will arrive at Dinant, eighteen miles s. of Namur. The route either by land or water presents a variety of pleasing scenes.Descending the hill, and entering the forest ,the traveller visits Wepion and Folz, after which the road, passing between the Meuse and the forest of Basse-Marlange, conducts him to Profondeville. Then leaving on his right the wood of Hul, separated from that ofMarliere by the river Burnot, he arrives at Ruillon. Leaving Annevoye on his right passing a hill, and skirting another wood, he reaches Hun. Afterwards leaving Henenmont on his right he comes to Anhée; then passing on his right the wood of the Abbey of Mou- lin , and the hamlet of Senenne, the traveller finds himself between the Meuse and a consi-328 DINANT. -HERBEMONT.derable hill: afterwards leaving Rostenne and Crevecœur on his right, he passes through Bouorgnen, and soon arrives at DINANT, con- taining 3,000 inhabitants, and close to the new frontiers. The chief trade is leather andtin ware; and in the neighbourhood are quarries of marble, and rich mines of tin.The town-hall was formerly the palace ofthe Prince of Liege. Between Dinant and Ciney is HERBEMONT, a town with a strong castle ona mountain.We now leave the banks of the Meuse, and take an easterly direction towards Mons. As the traveller departs from Namur, he should halt on the hill which overhangs the city.Although neither the Sambre nor the Meuse are visible from this spot, yet the bird's-eye view of the town cannot fail to please. The immense rock on which the castle is built,with the little gardens planted on its declivity,and the houses that are placed on its very summit, are objects truly picturesque. The prospect from the castle is, if possible, finer than this, for it embraces the Sambre andthe Meuse, until the mountains at the exticmities of the valley conceal them from the view.On quitting Namur, with Saint Servais on the right, we cross a river, and pursuing the course of the Sambre, leave Flawinne on theleft. We then cross a valley, pass near Temploux, and leaving Spy on the left, and Sauvages and Gelzinne on the right, arrive at Mazy. We now pass another river, andFLEURUS. 329leave St. Martin-Balatre, on the left, and Botey on the right; a hill succeeds, and passing by Tongrines on the left, another hill and a river bring us to the post-house at Sombref.Leaving Sombref, the road follows for some distance the course of a river, after which wereach the village of Ligny. The road now consists of a continued succession of hills,valleys, and rivulets to Courcelles. About midway between Sombref and Courcelles lie the plains of FLEURUS on the left, celebrated for the numerous battles which have beenfought on them. AtLigny the Prussians suf- fered severely in the engagement ofJune 16th,which preceded the signal victory of Wa- terloo.NoThe battle of Ligny was marked by the peculiar fury and deadly hatred with which the Prussians and French contended.quarter was given or asked on either side.The loss ofthe Prussians exceeded 16,000 men,and they found it necessary to retreat to Wavre in the night. Blücher had personallyled on several charges of cavalry, in one of which he was exposed to the greatestdanger. One charge had failed ,and while the enemy was vigorously pursuing,a musket-shot struck the Prince's horse. Theanimal, far from being stopped in his career,began to gallop more furiously till it dropped down dead. Blücher, stunned by the violent fall, lay entangled under the horse.enemy's cuirassiers advanced. The last Prus- sian horseman had already passed by, and anE e.The330 CHARLEROY.adjutant alone remained with him, who had just alighted to share his fate. Fortunately the French cavalry rushed on without per- ceiving him; and the next moment a second charge of the Prussians having repelled them,they again passed him with the same preci- pitation, and without observing him. The Field-Marshal was then, with great difficulty,disengaged from under the dead animal, and mounted on a dragoon horse.Numerous beautiful crystals ofwhite quartz are found near Fleurus, and the agriculture ofthese plains is deservingly celebrated.The country has here completely changed its character. We see no more the abrupt rock, and the short but steep hills of Maes- tricht and Liege. The hills are diminished to gentle undulations. The ascent is easy and prolonged, and from the summit an immense expanse of highly-cultivated land presents itself to the view. The prospect is no longer terminated by some lofty hill, but by tufts of trees, and little woods interspersed with cottages and farm-houses. The country-seats which are observed on every side have usually a Gothic architecture, but their appearance is pleasing, and betokens the competence of the proprietors .Eight miles s.w. ofFleurus is CHARLEROY, SO calledby the Marquis Castel-Rodrigo, in com- pliment to Charles II. of Spain. It is cele- brated for its fortifications, and the many sieges which it has endured. It supplies the whole of Belgium with nails, and has someFONTAINE L'EVEQUE. 331valuable coal-mines. The number of inhabitants is 4,000. Afair of ten days begins on the 5th of August for cattle and every kind of merchandise.VEQUE.Ten miles w. of Charleroy is FONTAINE L'E- It is surrounded by woods, and the most execrable roads render the approach to it difficult and painful; but the beauty of the prospect abundantly compensates for the toil of the journey. The wild and mountainous scenery ofthis neighbourhood forms a striking contrast with the usual features of a Belgian landscape. Near this place are the ruins of the celebrated abbey of Alne, well worthy the traveller's attention. By the extent of ground which these ruins occupy, the tourist will be enabled to form some idea of the ancientmagnificence of the edifice. Its yearly revenue was more than 1,300,000 crowns, and the very cloisters contained 300 columns of the finest marble. The only remaining ha- bitable part of the structure is converted into a farm-house.There is a common proverb in this country:«Faute d'un point , Martin perdit son âne»-«Owing to a point, Martin lost his ass:»speaking of the necessity of an attention to little things, or the important consequences which often flow from trifling causes.It is thus explained. Apriest called Martin was Abbot ofAlne. He wrote over the outergate,Porta patens esto nulli, claudatur honesto;i. e. Let this gate be opened to no one, and332 BINCH .especially let it be shut against every honestman.This gave offence to the Seigneur to whom the abbey belonged, and he immediately de- prived him of his benefice. Had he shifted the commaone word forwarder, the meaning would have been honourable to the abbey.Porta patens esto, nulli claudatur honesto.Let this hospitable gate be always open, let it be shut against no deserving object.The village of Alne is considerable and contains more than 1,500 inhabitants.We return to Courcelles. The travellercrosses a valley, and passes near Trazegnies,after which crossing a river and a hill , leaving Chapelle-Herlaymont on his right, traversing the extremity of a wood, and crossing another river, he arrives at the post-house of HaineSt. Pierre.Proceeding from this place we pass near Haine-Saint-Paul, and leaving Mont-Sainte- Aldegonde and Leval on the left, and Saint- Waast and Trieviere on the right, and af- terwards Ressay on the left, we reach Peronne;crossing a river and a hill, with Binch and Wandre on the left.BINCH is a pleasant little town in which Mary Queen ofHungary and sister to CharlesV. erected a magnificent castle while she was regent of the Netherlands. It was destroyed by Henry II. about the middle of the 15th century, but rebuilt by Albert and Isabella.Crossing another river and leaving Bray on the right, and Estines-au-Val on the left, weMONS. 333arrive at Villers-Saint-Ghislain. Then ascending a hill, and leaving Spiennes on the left, and Bonsoit-sur-Haine on the right,touching on Saint-Symphorien, crossing avalley, and passing Meswin and Hyon on the left, we come to the foot ofthe hill on which Mons is situated.MONS is built on a hill, the foot of which iswatered by the river Trouille. Its ancient name was Hannonia, given to it by Cæsar its illustrious founder, and probably derived from the junction of the rivers Trouille and Haine at this spot. It was formerly the capital of Austrian Hainault, and lately of the depart- ment of Gemappe, and is at present the seat ofthe provincial government. The principal buildings are the castle, the Town-hall, and the great church, which is said to occupy the site of a castle built by Julius Cæsar. The altar is a pleasing piece of sculpture, and is usually surrounded with laurels arranged with much taste. Some beautiful Madonas willattract the attention of the traveller. Mons contains a foundling hospital, on the plan on which policy and humanity dictate that such institution should ever be established .The infant is readily received without the parent being exposed. The chiefmanufactu- res are woollen stuffs, linen, lace, and earthenware; and it contains 25,000 inhabitants .It communicates with Paris by the canal of St. Quentin. The surrounding country abounds with coal-mines; and the smoke from thean336 THEUX.Thereare no established posts between Liege and Luxemburg, but the traveller will easily find different conveyances, ifhe has time and inclination to visit this romantic region .Liege to Theux..........Theux to Spa ..Spa to Stavelot .........Stavelot to Deiffelt .....Miles.181014Deiffelt to Diekirch ..Diekirch to Luxemburg......................202420-106Inthis excursion I shall only mention a few of the places through which the road passes;the return by the southern and better culti- vated districts will require a more particular description.The villages are so thinly scattered in Luxem- burg, that the traveller, if he be not careful,willoften stay some hours longer for his dinner than he likes, and will have some difficulty in finding a place at which he may sleep. The towns of Luxemburg are much inferior to most of the Belgic villages: indeed the capital is almost the only place which deserves the name of a town.The road from Liege to Theuxpasses through Louveigne, THEUXwas the theatre ofa bloody engagement between the French and Aus- trians in 1794, in which the latter were beaten.Theux produces some of the most beautifulSPA. 337black marble in Europe. It is much used for chimney - pieces, monuments, tables and avariety of ornaments.Agreat part ofthe road from Theux to Spa lies through a pleasing valley and by the side of a little river. The prospects, some- times beautifully luxuriant, at other times picturesque and romantic, and occasionally assuming awild and even sublime character,cannot fail to please by their endless variety.SPA is situated in a valley surrounded by mountains. It contains about 300 houses builtin the form of a crescent, and is celebrated forits mineral waters, to which great numbers resort from every part of Europe. Amidst the bloodiest wars this place has been respected,and the subjects of every belligerent state live here in perfect union. Spa has lost much of its original splendour. Adreadful fire in 1808 consumednearly200 houses. Halfoftheprin- cipal street, and the whole of the street near the river were destroyed. The company, al- though not so numerous as formerly, is yet fashionable, and usually frequent the Spa, in themonths ofJune, July, andAugust. They generally assemble in the morning near the Pouhon spring in the middle of the town.This is supposed to be more strongly impreg- nated with carbonic acid gas, than any of the other waters. Somebathe here. Others, after drinking at this spring, proceed on horseback.or in carriages to the Sauvenière, the Ge- ronstère, or the Tonnelet springs .The Sauvenière is rather more than a milerf338 SPA.on the east of Spa, on the side of a lofty hill.This water is supposed to be slightly diuretic,as is that of a fountain called Grossbeck at alittle distance from the Sauvenière .The Geronstère is two miles on the south ofSpa, on a hill in the midst of a wild and un- cultivated forest.The Tonnelet is on an eminence called Fresneuse. The water bursts from the spring with great force , resembling a cauldron violently boiling. It is peculiarly brisk and sparkling ,and warm and cold baths are built here forthe accommodation of the visitors.After returning from the springs they break- fast at their lodgings, or at the Vauxhall, apleasant garden, and much frequented. At eleven the fashionable and ruinous games of Pharo and Loo begin, and continue with unabated activity until dinner. Too many visitors have had mournful experience, that the unfair arts ofgambling are as much prac- tised amidst the mountains of Spa, as in the metropolis of any of the European kingdoms.Afew, who have a prudent regard for their morals and their health, employ the morning in visiting the noble cascade of Stabloo, the mineral spring and romantic prospect of Chau- fontaine, the marble quarries of Theux, or the sublime scenery of Montjou, or Steffen .After dinner, the visitors of the Spa amuse themselves with exploring the wildly beau- tiful scenery of the neighbouring mountains,or again throng aroundthe fatal gaming-table,or assist at the concert, or amuse themselvesSPA. 339at the theatre, or the ball. In July, balls are given twice every week at the assembly-room or Redoubte, and once every week at the Vauxhall; but in the succeeding month they are given twice in the week at each place.The waters of Spa are highly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and contain much car- bonate ofiron. In the quantity of the latter,they are equalled by the Pyrmont waters, and in the former they are excelled both by the Pyrmont and the Seltzer; they are, however,deservedly esteemed. The grateful and mo- derate stimulus of the carbonic acid gas is useful in innumerable chronic diseases, connected with an impaired state of the digestive organs. They are particularly beneficial in simple indigestion, in bypochondriasis, and in gout.One ofthemost beautiful walks in Spa is the garden of the Capuchins. The number of inhabitants is about 2,000, whose principal employment is the manufactory of wooden toys, particularly ladies' work--boxes from the beech-wood, which grows so abundantly in the neighbouring mountains. These are eagerly purchased by the visitors, and knownin every part ofEurope.Acabinet of natural history bas been for- medby Mr. Wolff, by whom the scientific tra- veller may be supplied with specimens of all the numerous and beautiful minerals and fossils which the neighbourhood produces.The principal inns are the Flanders and York Hotels.340 STAVELOT . SALM.-LUXEMBURG .STAVELOT, containing contai 3,000 inhabitants ispleasantly situated on the Warge. The pa- rochial church and the abbey are magnificent structures. The principal trade is in stuffsand leather. The water of the Warge is com- monly supposed to derive some chemical pro- perty from the neigbouring fens and marshes,which renders the leather impervious to wet.The town contains a mineral spring, which is said to be not inferior to those at Spa.BetweenStavelot andDeiffelt the road passes through Comanster, and beyond Deiffelt we find Walferdange, Fischback, Marnach, Ho- singen, Hoscher, Michelau, and Tateler-Birden.BetweenDiekirchandLuxemburgareSchyren,Rollinghen , Lintgen, Helmdingen, Dumel- dange, and Eich.Midway between Stavelot and Deiffelt, and three miles to the west of the road, is SALM,with an ancient castle on a mountain.LUXEMBURG , twenty-two miles w. s. w. of Treves, was formerly the capital of theDuchy of Luxemburg, and lately of the department of Forets. It was called by the Romans Au- gusta Romanorum; but one of the chiefs of the native tribes, having wrested it from the power of the invaders, called it Lucis-burgum,or the City of the Sun, to whom he dedica- ted it.Luxemburg is singularly and romantically situated on two abrupt rocks that overhang the little river Else, one of them is abso- lutely perpendicular towards the river, and the traveller can scarcely look downit withoutGREVEN-MACHEREN, &c. 341dizziness. These rocks form the glacis ofthe place, and render it one of the strongest forti- fications in Europe. It contains 10,000 inha- bitants. Near Luxemburg are the ruins of the magnificent palace of Ernest, Count of Mansfeld.The principal commerce is in cloth, linen,tobacco, china, paper, and hides. Fairs are held on the first Wednesday in January, Ash- Wednesday, the Wednesday in the fourth week of April , the Wednesday after St John the Baptist, August 24th, and the Wednesday in the fourth week in October, for horses,cattle, and every kind of merchandise .Fifteen miles N. E. of Luxemburg is GREVEN- MACHEREN, celebrated for making the best Mo- selle wine.Ten miles E. of Diekirch is ECHTERNACH, atownmostromantically surroundedwith moun- tains.Twelve miles N. of Diekirch is VIANEN, situated among rocks and mountains. It has astrong castle upon an almost inaccessible rock.The traffic is in cloth and leather. The wineof Vianen is equal to that of the Moselle.SECT. XXIII. Route from Luxemburg toNamur.Posts. Miles.LUXEMBURG to Steinfort ...... 2Steinfort to Attert .......... 2Ff.........IIII342 ROUTE FROM LUXEMBURGPosts.Attert to Malmaison ........ 2Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Malmaison to Flamisoul ...... 2Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Flamisoul to Marche......... 34Extra charge for the 3d and4th horse.Marche to Emptine .......... 2Miles.... 12........1220.... 134Extra charge for the 3dhorse.Emptine to Namur.........Extra charge for the 3d horse3 .... 16during the winter.174 98On quitting Luxemburg, the traveller crosses a hill and valley, then leaving Merl on his left, and the wood of Strassen on his right,passing close by Strassen, then leaving Ber- trange on the left, crossing a river, and having Mamer on the left, Olm on the right. and Holtzem on the left , and, on the other side ahill, Goetzengen and Koerich on the right,and Hagen on the left, he arrives at Steinfort.Proceeding from Steinfort, he passes by the edge ofa wood, leaves Clairfontaine on is right,and Barnich, Nid, Etter, and Weyler, on his left, then crossing a valley, and having Walt- zingen on his right, he reaches Arlon, a neatTO NEUFCHATEAU . -BASTONGE. 343little town. Then having Altenhofen on isleft, and Frassem and Bonnert on his right,and soon after Lischer and Melzert on his left ,and Tontlingen on his right; then crossing awoodwith Schodeck on his left, and Natam onhis right, he arrives at Attert, on the other side a river.Now leaving Parret on his right, crossing awood, leaving Holt and Perl on his right, skirt- ing another wood, and leaving Wolfingen on the right, he comes to Martelange. Then leaving Redel, Wisembach, and Bodange on the left , Wanach on the right, traversing awood, crossing a river, and passing Burnon on the left, he comes to Hollange and Mal- maison.Fourteen miles s. w. is NEUFCHATEAU, de- serving notice only on account of the large markets wich are held there.Quitting Malmaison, Chaumont is on the left, and the road passes close by Grandru.Remichampagne is on the left, Homprez, Sal- vacourt, and Assensis, on the right, and Sibert on the left. Then crossing a river, the tra- veller skirts Villeroux; he leaves Chenegue on the left, and Senonchamps on the right,and crossing ahill and valley with Mande- Saint-Etienne on the right, he reaches Fla- misoul .Ten miles s . E. of Flamisoul is BASTONGE,which beingwell built, and the most populous town in the neighbourhood, is frequently called Paris in the Ardennes .344 HOUFFALIZE.HOUFFALIZE, fifteen miles N. E. , has a very ancient and magnificent chateau.The town of St. Hubert, twelve miles w. , is pleasantly situated onan extensive lawnin the midst of a thick forest. The Abbey is an object of much veneration in the neighbour- ing country. The legend of it is yet related with much solemnity.Prince Hubert, like too many of the great ones of the earth, was more eager to enjoy those pleasures which his elevated situation placedin his power, than to study and practise the ceremonies of the church. He carried hisprofaneness to so incredible a height as to take the diversion of hunting on that solemn day Good-Friday. Such impiety was not suffered to pass without some visible token of the divine displeasure, and a stag with a crucifix between his horns suddenly appeared to him in the midst of the forest.The guilty conscience of the prince was immediately alarmed; he retired in haste to his palace, and unable to banish the awful vision froin his mind, and justly regarding it as a warning from heaven, he abjured the pomps and vanities of the world, assumed the habit of a priest, founded the magnificent Abbey of St. Hubert, and passed the re- mainder of his days in striving to expiate the sins of his youth by a rigorous course of abstinence and penance.The power which so strangely interfered to checkhis impiety, likewise manifested its ap- probation of his devotion, by enabling him toMARCHE- EN-FAMENE. -ROCHEFORT. 345perform the most surprising miracles; and it is yet firmly believed, that if an incision be made in the forehead, and the wound be co- vered with a shred of the mantle of this saint,the most confirmed lunatic will be immediately restored to his right mind.Crossing a river and leaving Flamierge on the left, passing through Fronte, leaving Salle on the right, traversing the wood of Herbeu- mont, passing through Roumont, then cross- ingtheOurthe, leaving Fenneville on the left ,and Ortenville farther off, Erneuville on the right, and afterwards Champlon on the left,the traveller arrives at Journal. Then traversing a forest for three miles, crossing avalley ascending asteep hill, leaving Bande on the left; crossing awood, leaving Roy on the right, and Charneux on the left; crossing awood through which runs a river, leaving Petit Champlon on the right, and Holson and Waha on the left, he reaches Marche.The church of St. Remaele in MARCHE- ENFAMENE is well built. This town has severaliron-forges and wire-manufactories, and con- tains 1,300 inhabitants.Twelve miles s. w. of Marche is ROCHEFORT,called by the Romans Rupefortium. It de- rives its name from its situation among rocks .The castle is said to have been built by JuliusCæsar. It was suddenly attacked by the Aus- trians in 1792, and General La Fayette was taken prisoner. Proceeding onward, the tra- veller passes a hill and river, he then leaves Aye on the left, traverses a wood for two346 CINEY.miles, and leaving Waillet on his right, ar- rives at Hogne. Then leaving Petit-Sensin on his left, he comes to Grand-Sensin; and crossing a river, skirting a wood, and passing a valley, he reaches Pessoulx. Then leaving Ciney on his left, and crossing a hill and val- ley, with Mohuville on his right, he arrives at Emptine.Five miles s . of Emptine is CINEY, which has been three times besieged and completely destroyed.Quiting Emptine, Emptinalle is on the left,and crossing a valley and a river we visit Nattoie; then leaving Florée on the right, and crossing a hill and another river, the road passes through Assese. The traveller next has Corrière and Maillen on his left, he crosses a river and a wood, skirts Sart-Bernard,crosses another river and a hill, and has Wierde on his right, Dave on his left, and Andoy on his right. Then crossing ahill and valley, he has Erpent on his right, and Ge- ronsart and Velaines on his left, and after arapid declivity and skirting the hamlet of Sambes, and passing the Meuse, he arrives at Namur, (page 324) .ROUTE FROM MONS TO BRUSSELS . 347SECT. XXIV. Route from Mons toBrussels.Posts . Miles..... II848Mons to Soignies ........... 2Soignies to La Genette ......La Genette to HalHal to Brussels ....... .. I... 2........7.. II438-I will now suppose the traveller continuing his route and returning to Brussels in order to proceed to Ostend. Another pleasing journey from Mons to Ostend shall be given after- wards.We leave Mons by the gate of Nimy, and passing along the fosse and through many delightful meadows, we have a curious view of the numerous and extensive bleaching- grounds. Then crossing the Hesne we arrive at Nimy. Passing on the left the roads to Ath and Enghein we turn to the right, and traverse Mesières. Next occur the woods ofChapitre, Chêne-Saint-Hubert, and Mons; the road then passes by a sandy heath, a pond, avalley, a rivulet, and the watering -place of Roquette, and reaches Cateau. Leaving Thi- ensies, Saint-Fœillien, and Rœulx to the right ,skirting the wood of Haye-du-Comte, and havingMasmy-Saint-Pierre, and Masmy-Saint- Jean on the left, crossing a valley, leaving Naast to the right, and going by the pond of348 SOIGNIES.- SOIGNIES. BRAINE- LE-COMTE, &C.Gedonsark, we arrive at Coulbray and Rotten- toul, and after passing by several inns reach Soignies . SOIGNIES is a very ancient place, and was built by the Senones.Leaving Soignies we traverse the wood of Braine, skirt Leudon, cross a valley, and ar- rive atBourbecq, and soon afterwards atBraine- le-Comte.BRAINE-LE-COMTE derives its name from thecelebrated Brennus, in the time of Julius Cæ- sar, who built astrong town here which re- inained until the year 1677.Ten miles E. of Braine-le-Comte is NIVELLEon the Thione. It was formerly a place of considerable consequence. It hasgoodmanu- factories of cambrick, lace, and stuffs. The«John of Nivelle» so much admired by the commonpeople, is the colossal iron figure of aman, standing on the top of a tower near the clock, and who strikes the hours with ahammer. A fair often days begins Septem- ber 29, for cattle and goods. Jourdan de- feated the Allies here in 1794.Proceeding from Braine-le-Comte we pass the hamlet of Crocremont, and near Hen- nuieres, and having on the left the wood of Rebecque, we arrive at the post-house of La Genette.Ten miles w. N. w. of La Genette is EN- GHEIN. The palace has been much admired.The principal manufactory is of linen. Three fairs of ten days each commence June 20th,August 20th, and October 3d, for cattle andHAL. 349merchandise. It contains 3,000 inhabitants.Skirting a little wood, we arrive at Bruyère,and Tubize at a short distance from LaGenette; then passing through some meadows we cross the Senne, and skirting Herbach,follow for a little way the course of the river,and having passed through Beregal and Lem- breeck we reach Hal.HAL was formerly much resorted to on ac- count of a supposed miraculous image of the Virgin Mary. The chapel of Notre-Damewas filled with the offerings of the devotees.Quitting Hal, passing the barrier and leaving Buyssinghem and Essingham-sur-Senne on the right, we arrive at Brucum; and leaving St. Peter's -Leeuw on the left, and Loth onthe right, reach Vigeron. Then passing op- posite to Begards, crossing some meadows and the river Zuene, wevisit Vlest, and afterwardsleaving Forêt to the right, we traverse Eles- mont, Vecywreid, and Anderlech, the last of which is a village prettily situated by severalrivulets and meadows. It produces much ex- cellent butter which is in great request in the neighbourhood of Brussels. Then going through the beautiful meadows of Brussels,passing along the bank of the Senne, and leaving Saint Gillis on the right, we enter Brussels by the gate of Anderlech. (See page 235) .Gg350 ROUTE FROM BRUSSELS TO OSTEND .SECT. XXV. Route from Brussels toOstend.Brussels to Assche ........Assche to Alost .Alost to Ghent........Ghent to Ecloo .Ecloo to Bruges .Bruges to Ostend .......................Posts.I342Miles..... 8484.... 18............3344152-....13416319484From Brussels to Ghent the traveller willmost conveniently proceed by the diligence ,which goes three times every day. The way by the canal is extremely circuitous, and destitute f any very pleasing or important objects. The fare of the diligence does not exceed nine francs .On departing from Brussels the traveller passes a river and a hill, and leaving Meule- beeck on the right, and Berckem on the left,then Jette and Dilighem on the right, crossing a river leaving Grand Beygardem on the left,and skirting the side of a hill, he arrives at Zellick. Then leaving Releghem on the right,Beckerzele on the left, and Cobbeghem and Bollebeke on the right, and winding between two hills, he reaches Assche.Proceeding from Assche he leaves Mollen on the right, with the ruins of its former magniALOST . DENDERMONDE. 351ficent abbey, and after passing a steep hill,Afflinghem is also on the right, he then skirts a wood, crosses a river leaves Erembetleghem and Nieuwekercken on the left, and passing the river Dender, arrives at Alost, midway between Brussels and Ghent.ALOST derives its name from beiug in the eastern part of the ancient county of Flanders .Its principal commerce is in flax, linen, and hops. The church contains a valuable paint- ing by Rubens, which was restored with the other plunder of the Netherlands after the cap- ture of Paris .Ten miles N. of Alost is DENDERMONDE, afortified town at the conflux of the Denderwith the Scheldt. It has sustained severalsieges, one of which the inimitable Sterne has most wittily commemorated.Dendermonde contains 8,000 inhabitants;it has a good flax and corn-market, and anexcellent establishment for printing calico.Proceeding from Alost the traveller crosses aplain, then a hill, and afterwards a river;and leaving Erpe and Meire on his left, Lede on his right, and then Erondeghem and Otte- rem on his left, crossing another river, leaving Vlecken on the left, and Impe and Smetlende on the right, and traversing a steep hill, ar- rives at Oordeghem. ThenleavingBacveghen on his left, passing a river and ahill, leaving Westrem on the left, Massemein on the right,and Gysenzeele on the left, skirting a wood,passingnear the Scheldt, leaving Gentrode on the left, crossing a river, then leaving Melle352 GHENT.on the left, and Laerne and Heusden on the right, passing near Peters-Ledeberg, crossing a river, and leaving Gentbrugge on the right,he arrives at Ghent.GHENT is situated on the Scheldt at the influx of the Lys, Lieve, and Maese. Its founda- tion is attributed by many to Julius Cæsar,who gave the inhabitans the naine of Gor- duini. The Vandals who succeeeded theNervii called it Vanda, whence arose the name of Gand. So early as the time of the English Alfred it was probably a place of importance,for ancient historians relate that the Danes,repulsed from the shores of Britain, landed in Flanders , attacked Ghent, and obtained con- siderable plunder. It formerly surpassed Paris in extent and population; whence the bon-motof Charles V. ,That he could put all Paris in his Gand,»i. e, his glove. At present a great propor- tion of the ground enclosed within the walls is not built upon. It contains however 58,000 inhabitants, and is abishop's see. Although the streets ofGhent are in general wide and well built, a few of the most frequented are so narrow that two carriages cannot pass each other. It stands on 27 islands, most ofwhich are bordered by magnificent quays. Threehundredbridgesconnect these islands. Along the bank of the canal called Croupiere is avery beautiful walk.Ghentwas formerly the capital of Austrian Flanders, and lately ofthe department of the Scheldt. It has many silk, linen, lace, andGHENT, 353wollenmanufactories, and carries on a con- siderable traffic in corn. The staple commerce of Ghent for many years previous to the Revolution consisted in lace, and particu- larly the kind called sorted lace. Great quan- tities were sent to Holland, England, France,Spain, and the Colonies. Since the interrup- tionofcommerce some very large cotton ma- nufactories have been established, which stillgive employement to the children and young girls, but to the very great injury of theirhealth and morals .The surrounding country produces much tobacco, madder, corn, and flax. One of the most flourishing manufactories of Ghent is that of masks. They are exported in great quantities to every part of Europe. The city and neighbourhood contain numerous bleach- ing grounds, and linens are sent from every part of the Netherlands to be whitened here.The cathedral of St. Bouyon well merits theattention of the traveller, not on account of its exterior magnificence, but the wonderful richness and splendour of its interior The principal altar and the sanctuary are unrival- led. Thepillars ofpure white Italian marble form a striking contrast with the beautiful plates ofblack marble withwhich the whole of the cathedral is lined.The pulpit is exquisitely carved. It is sup- ported by the figure of an old man, before whom an angel opens the Scriptures at this passage, «Awake thou that sleepest, and arise fromthe dead, and Christ shall give thee life.»Gg.354 GHENT ..The statue ofBishop Triest by Quesnoy is much and deservedly esteemed. It is one of the most admirable specimens of modernsculpture.The paintings recovered from the grasp ofthe French are valuable. The traveller willadmire «the Death of Christ>> by Vanhonthurn, «the Resurrection of Lazarus >> by Van Veen, and particularly «the Paschal Lamb>>> by Van Eyck .Under this church are the ruins of another,exhibiting some curious specimens of ancient sculpture.The steeple of the Cathedral presents the same unfinished appearance that is observed in many ofthe religious edifices ofthis country.It abruptly terminates with a platform that cannot be pleasing to the eye of taste.If the tourist will endure the fatigue of toiling to the summit of this tower, the whole of Ghent will be seen at his feet, with its numerous canals, the windings of the Scheldt,and an immeasurable extentoflevel , but highly cultivated country.The architecture of the church of St. Michael is grand and imposing, but it is princi- pally to be visited for a painting of the Crucifixion>> by Vandyke in his noblest style.The spectator will gaze on it with admiration and awe. The modern painter Lens has oneof his happiest performances here, entitled «the Annunciation .» Two other modernpaintings are executed in a style sufficiently pleasing.GHENT.. 355Ghent contains the only large nunnery that remains in Belgium. Prior to the Revolution,the Emperor Joseph II., had commenced the reformation and reduction of the monasteriesand convents; and during the anarchy of revolutionary times, they were almost all dis- solved , and their estates confiscated and sold.The principal convent of Ghent survived the general wreck. Access to part of it is easily obtained, and the traveller will not omit tovisit the chapel, and as much of the interior of the convent as he can gain permission to see. The Protestant worship is publicly performed in the church of the Capuchins.The Town-hall is an immense and magni- ficent building, but it presents an incongruous mixture of ancient and modern architecture .The present Academy was formerly a reli- gious edifice. It contains a noble collection of the works of the best Flemish artists ancientand modern. Access to it is easily obtained by the traveller. Lectures are delivered inthe winter by able professors on every branch of literature and the arts , and more than 200 pupils usually attend on the regular instruc- tions of the College.The public Library should not be omitted.This building also was formerly devoted to religious purposes. The architecture is not unpleasing, and the library contains a magni- ficent collection of ancient and modern books,with many valuable MSS. The treasures of which it had been plundered by the French are all restored, and the imperial stamp on356 GHENT.many of them will not fail ofbeing observed.The Botanic garden is laid outwithmuch taste, and contains many scarce and valuable specimens. It is open to the inspection of the public every day.The College ofGhent is anoble and useful establishment. It consists of a master andsix professors , who lecture on the classics,poetry, rhetoric, logic, ethics, the modern languages, and the mathematics. Public prizes are distributed every year, and the examina- tion is conducted with the utmost impartiality and solemnity in the presence of the magis- trates and principal inhabitants of the city.The College is principally supported by considerable funds destined for that purpose;and the whole expense of education does not exceed 201. per annum. The usual numberof students is about 200, and many English children are educated here. Protestants aswell as Catholics are admitted, but every pupil is compelled to attend mass, with this distinction, that the English Protestants are permitted to use the book of common prayer ofthe church of England, while the Catholic has the ritual of the church of Rome.The prison, like almost every house of cor- rection in the Netherlands, is admirably ma- naged. The traveller will derive much satis- faction from inspecting the different wards and apartments.John ofGaunt, Duke of Lancaster, was born in the Castle of Ghent, the ruins of which yetGHENT. 357remain. Ghent was likewise the birth-place of the Emperor Charles V. The inhabitants of Ghent made a distinguished figure in the wars that for so many ages desolated Flanders. The physiogno- mical traveller will perceive something pecu- liar, and characteristic of courage in their countenances. The numerous armies whichthey sent into the field exceed all belief. In 1382, while a part of their troops besieged Oudenarde, an army of40,000 men attacked the combined force of Charles VI. and LouisdeMale. In that engagement they lost 20,000 and yet remained sufficiently strong to under- take the siege ofBruges. Thehistory ofGhent was little more than an history of sedition and revolts . After an unsuccesful rebellionagainst Charles V. , they were pardoned on this singular condition, that their magistrates should appear before him with halters round their necks, and should always wear them when they exercised any judicial function.They soon transformed this humiliating badge into an ornament by twisting it into a True Lover's Knot. An ancient poet alludes to this in some Latin verses , in which he characterizes the six principal cities of the Ne- therlands:Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antverpia nummis,Gandavum laqueis, formosis Bruga puellis,Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mecklinia stultis!At a later period Ghent again suffered for refusing to obey a tyrant's mandate. The1358 GHENT..Prince of Broglio, Bishop of Ghent, gave much offence to Napoleon, and was imprison- ed, and another dignitary appointed by the imperial autocrat. The clergy of Ghent re- fused to assist him in the performance of reli- gious worship, or in any form to acknowledge or receive the new bishop,. Napoleon, who could ill brook any opposition to his will, im- mediately ordered no less than 270 eccle- siastics to be arrested, marched to Antwerp,and employed on the fortifications of thatplace.Broglio has been reinstated in the episcopal chair, and the priests, released from manual labour, are again engaged in the service of the sanctuary. It is said that many of them have not learned much Christian charity in the school of adversity, but view with an evil eye,and oppose to the utmost of their power, that universal toleration which forms the mostpleasing feature of the Belgic constitution.Ghent is the chosen abode of a considerableproportion of the Belgic nobility. Few of the nobility and land-proprietors reside in their country-houses as they do in England. Flan- ders has unfortunately been the seat of most of the wars that have convulsed Europe, and inhabitants of the open country have been too frequently exposed to violence and pillage. The noble and opulent families have therefore fixed theirpermanent residence in the fortified towns, and Ghent has always been a favouritespot.Numerous English families reside at Ghent.GHENT. 359Too many have emigrated to Flanders from motives of economy. In Brussels they have probably found that house - rent and pro- visions of every kind are almost as dear as in most districts of England. At Ghent and at Bruges, and particularly at the latter, the ex- penses of a family are considerably less. The houses of Ghent, however, are ancient and gloomy, and are usually much too large to suit with those ideas of comfort which theEnglishman in the middle ranks of society forms.House-rent is reasonable at Ghent; ve- getables are abundant; meat is rather cheaper than in London; and fish and bread are atnearly the same price. The grand secret of living cheap in Flanders is, that the emigrant will there submit to many privations, and will adopt a moderateandeconomic style, to which his pride would notpermit him to stoop in his native country, and surrounded by those to whomhe was known.Afair of fifteen days commences March the 15th; another of seventeendays, July the roth;a third of one day, August the gth; and afourth of two days, October the 3d. The principal inns are, the Paradise, the English Hotel, the Stag, the Golden Lion, and the Flemish Hotel. The best coffee-housesathe Grand Coffee-house, the Imperial Arms,the Themis, the Exchange, Vilani's, and the Ghent.Fourteen miles N. of Ghent is SAS- VAN-GHENTon the canal from Ghent to the Scheldt, with360 SAS- VAN- GHENT . -AXEL .-HULST, &c .sluices , by which the country can be laid under water.AXEL is four miles N. of Sas-van-Ghent.Though it contains but 160 houses it is divided into twenty streets , and has an excellent Townhall and Exchange.HULST is six miles E. of Axel. It is a smallbut very ancient and strongly- fortified town.The Gothic church of St. Willibrod deservesattention. The Town-hall is a noble building. The air of Hulst is supposed to be un- healty.Eighteen miles w. N. w. of Axel, inanisland ofthe samename, is BIERVLEIT. OnNovember the 12th, 1377, the sea suddenly inundated nineteen villages in this neighbourhood and scarcely a soul escaped. Although this in- undationwas followed by three others not less destructive, the industry and perseverance of the Dutch have recovered every acre.was the birth-place of Berkelen, to whom the Dutch are indebted for the method of curing herrings. He died in 1397. His memory was held in such veneration that Charles V. andthe queen of Hungary made a journey to visit histomb.ThisFrom Ghent to Bruges the traveller passes through a small part of that district of Flan- dors, which reaching from Antwerp to the south of Ghent, is known bythe name of Pays deWaes. I shall avail myself ofthis opportu- nity to give an account of it.This district forms a beautiful model of industry and fertility. The natural soil is aPAYS DE WAES . 361barren and shifting sand, but the perseverance of the inhabitants has covered it with a richblack nould to an astonishing depth. As the traveller passes along the high road a very striking contrast presents itself between the natural and artificial soil. Where the roadis not paved, his wheels or his horses' feet sinkinto a sterile sand, and he finds it, in dry weather, almost impossible to proceed; but on the other side of a little quickset hedge, a rich luxuriant mould presents itself which few parts of Europe can equal.The fields are usually very small and sur- roundedwith a neat quickset hedge and adeep ditch. Each field is formed into a little hillin avery curious manner and with wonderful labour. The centre is more or less elevated,and the ground gradually slopes to the ditch.The nature of the soil suggested this peculiar and ingenious method of husbandry. Con- sisting of a thirsty porous sand, if the rain fell perpendicularly and with violence upon it,the manure would be washed through and lost, butwhen each field presents a gentle de- clivity the water glides over the surface with- out injury.The whole of the Pays de Waes appears like one continued village interspersed with gar- dens. The hamlets are so extensive andtouch so closely on one another that it is im- possible to perceive where one terminates and the next begins. The roads are every where bordered with farm and country houses.These are generally small, buthave a pleasing Hh362 ST. NICHOLAS AND LOKEREM.character of neatness and comfort. To seethis unique country in its full perfection the traveller should go from Antwerp to Ghent.For the agricultural tourist it will afford acomplete study.Between Antwerp and Ghent are the two villages of St. Nicholas and Lokerem, each containing more than 11,000 inhabitants.They possess some flourishing manufactories ofcotton, sail-cloth , and lace, and have well.frequented markets for corn, hemp, linseed and flax. The general appearance ofthe in- habitants bespeaks the prosperous state of the agriculture and commerce of the Pays de Waes.Three routes offer themselves to the traveller between Ghent and Bruges. Abarge sets out every morning at 9 o'clock, and pos- sesses every possible convenience. The cabinsare furnished as neatly as little parlours, and contain tables, chairs, glasses, china, etc. The roef is a truly elegant apartment. Adinner is provided at a moderate expense, as good and as clean as could be procured at the best inn; and liquors of every kind may be purchased at the cheapest rate. The time of departure andthe timeoccupied in thejourney are determined to a minute, and the bank oneither side, except at low water, offers an un- interrupted succession ofpleasing objects.The journey occupies 7 hours, and for the passage and ordinary no more than 5 francs are paid. There is asecond table to which thedishes are removed when the guests at theMARIAKERCKE . 363first table are satisfied . If the economic traveller should not object to dine there, the whole charge for ordinary and passage will not exceed 3 francs .After dinner the waiter carries round a littleiron box from guest to guest, who present what douceur they please, a small copper coin is all that is usually expected. The waiter has one third of the sum collected, and the rest is devoted to the maintenance of the poor ,for whose support and relief there are no poor- rates in Holland or Belgium.Should the traveller decline all refreshment,or carry his own provision with him, the ex- pense of his passage from Ghent to Bruges is but one franc.The only inconvenience of the barge is that the traveller must walk, and get his luggage carried tåree quarters of a mile to the head of the basin, unless he hires a little caravan or cabriolet which for a franc and a half willconveyhim and his chattels from almost every part of the city.The barge that is at present employed be- tween Ghent and Ostend was built for Napoleon, andhad the honour of conveying him from one town to another.The pedestrian or the horseman will pro- bably follow the towing-path by the side of the canal, but carriages must proceed by the post-road. To preserve the uniformity ofmy work I shall give a topographical account of thepost-road.Quitting Ghent the traveller crosses the364 BRUGES .canal of Bruges and leaving Dronghem on his left , arrives at Mariakercke abounding with the villas of the principal merchants ofGhent.Then crossing the canal a second time, leaving Wondelghem on the right, crossing a river,and passing Meerendre and Vinderhaute on the left , he crosses the canal ofDamme. Thenhaving Lovendeghem on the left, Evergheim on the right Semerghem and Ronsele on the left , and Meydengen on the right, and crossing the canal of Damme, he reaches Waerschoot.Afterwards crossing a river and a wood,leaving Oostwinckel on the left, traversing awood for more than two miles and crossing another river, he arrives at Ecloo. He then skirts a little wood, crosses the canal of Damme and a river, and passing near Adeghem, visits Maldeghem. Then crossing a river, a little wood, another river, and leaving Moerkercke on the right, and Oedelem on the left, he vi- sits Sysseele; and after skirting a wood and leaving Assebrouck on his left , and Saint-Cruys on his right arrives at Bruges through anoble avenue of trees extending to a considerable distance.BRUGES was formerly the residence of the Counts of Flanders, and attained its highest prosperity in the time of Philip the Good,who displayed amagnificence which no mo- narch could rival, and whose power was dreaded by all his neighbours. It was then the emporium of the commerce of the world,and could boast that consuls from every king- dom in Europe resided within its walls. ItBRUGES . 365was one of the leading cities of the Hanseatic league, whichwas aconfederacy of Go of the principal towns of Europe for the protection and improvement of commerce. Bruges was selected as the grand depôt of naval stores .In 1301 Philippe-le-Bel visited Bruges. As- tonished at the opulence and magnificence of the place, he exclaimed «I thought that I was the only king in Flanders , but here are ahundredkings.»Many of the public buildings of Bruges yet testify the ancient splendour of the place.The present British poet -laureate thus de- scribes them in his «Pilgrimage to Waterloo: >>The season of her splendour is gone by!Yet every where its monuments remain,Temples which rear their stately heads on high,Canals that intersect the fertile plain.Wide streets and squares, with many a court and hall,Spacious and undefaced, but ancient all.The civil wars in the 16th century drove the trade of Bruges first to Antwerp and after- wards to Amsterdam. Its canals, which communicate with every part of Holland and Flanders, still secure it some traffic, and it is the chosen residence ofmany of the principal Flemish families, and merchants retired fromtrade.Its chief manufactories are lace, china,earthen-ware, woollen cloths, tickings, and dimities. The making of lace employs 4,000 hands. Abluedye peculiar to Bruges is much esteemed. It contains 33,000 inhabitants .The streets ofBruges, although narrow, are ни.366 BRUGES .neat andclean, and the houses wear an appear- ance of grandeur, combined with comfort.The Town-hall is a noble specimen ofGothic architecture, and its tower affords an extensiveand notunpleasing view of the city and sur- roundingcountry. It possesses an exceedingly musical set of carillons or chimes, and thecylinder that sets them in motion is curious on account of its immense size and height.In the church of Notre Dame is one ofthosecuriously - carved pulpits which are almost peculiar to the Netherlands, and which cer- tainly are not excelled in any country.An exquisite statue of the Virgin with the infant Jesus, will not escape the attention of the connoisseur; it was stolen by the French during their occupation of Belgium, but res- tored after the second capture of Paris by theAllies.This church contains the magnificent tombs of Charles the Bold, and his daughter Mary of Burgundy. During the period of revolu- tionary anarchy the ornaments of these tombs were carefully secreted by one of the officers of the church; for this he was proscribed,and a price set on his head; but his pious care was afterwards rewarded by Napoleon, who has repaired these ancient sepulchres, and likewise that ofthe grandmother of his Empress.The church of S. Salvador contains someexcellent paintings, particularly the «Baptism ofJohn» and the «Resurrection of Christ>> by Van Os.ARDENBERG. 367The church of Jerusalem will be visited by every pious catholic. It possesses what is said to be an exact ressemblance of the tomb ofour Saviour. How the accuracy of the res- semblance can possiblybeknown, is a question which perhaps it will not be prudent to ask .This church likewise contains some interesting specimens of antique coloured glass.Aconvent ofEnglish nuns in established in Bruges, but neither the convent nor chapel possess any thing worthy of notice.This city was the birth-place of John of Bruges the inventor of painting in oil; and although the town presents merely a shadow of its former magnificence, it has lost little of that taste for the Fine Arts for which itwas once pre-eminently distinguished. It yet boasts an academy ofpainting, sculpture, and architecture. The professors are well appoint- ed, and the lectures are attended bynumerous pupils.Decimal arithmetic is said to have been invented at Bruges by Simon Stephen in 1602 .The principal inns are the Wheat-blossom ,the Commercial Hotel, the English Hotel, the Golden Lion, the Golden Monkey, and theBear.There is a fair the first Thursday afterEaster and July the 25th for horses, and two offifteen days each, commencing May 4th and October 1st, for everykind of merchandise. The walks of Stenbragge and Schipsdaele are very pleasant.Ten miles N. E. of Bruges is ARDENBERG.368 ARDENBERG .Before the twelfth century it was a place of very considerable consequence, but it is now dwindled into insignificance.There are three modes of travelling between Bruges and Ostend, as between Ghent and Bruges, with this difference, that the boat which goes daily is not so neat or convenient,andtheprovisions much inferior. The general appearance of the country is likewise less agreeable. The vegetation is not so abundant,the trees are not so luxuriant, and the blighting quality of the sea-wind becomes more and more visible. The canal between Bruges and Ostend is very large and deep.Coaches daily pass between Bruges and Ostend; and the price of a cabriolet for that distance is about 20 francs, including every expense except a gratuity to the postilion.Leaving Bruges, passing through Saint- Andries , and skirting a wood, the traveller arrives at Varssenare; then leaving Snellegem on the right, and crossing a river, he reaches Jabeke. Proceeding hence, having Zerkegem on the left, crossing a river, leaving Ettelgem on the right, passing by Westkercke, leaving Oudenburg on the right, and crossing another river, he arrives at the post house ofGhistel.Proceeding forward, crossing a river, leaving Snaeskercke on the right, then crossing the canal of Nieuport, leaving Lessinghem on the left, Steene on the right, Mariakercke on the left, and passing ariver, he at length arrives at Ostend.The traveller by the trekschuit is landed atOSTEND . 369the sluices at the end of the Bruges canal ,nearly a mile from the town. Several little boats are, however, waiting on the other side of the sluice, which for a trifling gratuity will convey him and his luggage into the very heart of Ostend; or he may intrust his port- manteau to one of the numerous boys and porters whom he will find there, and who will safely conduct him to the inn at which he proposes to take up his temporary abode.OSTEND is a fortified sea-port situated among numerous canals. The harbour is consideredto be the second in Europe, but the entrance to it is only practicable at nearly high water. Ships of the greatest burden then enter the town with the tide. The sluices ,particularly the Slykens, are worth attention.Ostend boasts of considerable antiquity.Acharter by which it claims many immuni- ties is dated so early as 1072, and it was known to exist as a fishing town in 810. It endured a remarkable siege of three years and three months against the Spaniards from 1601 to 1604. 50,000 of the garrison and inhabit- ants perished by disease or the sword, and 80,000 of the besiegers. It at length capitu- lated on honourable terms . In 1798 theEnglish landed and destroyed the sluices of the Bruges canal, but the wind shifting beforethey could re-embark, they were compelled to surrender to the French.While Ostend remained in the power of the French, much care was bestowed in extending and strengthening its fortifications. British370 OSTEND.engineers have completed what the enemy commenced, and Ostend may now rank among the most strongly fortified towns in Europe.some.The Town- hall, though low, is very hand- The churches present nothing to arrest the traveller's attention, unless he pauses to view with wonder and disgust the grotesque yet horrible representation of the tortures of purgatory in one of them.The town affords no fresh water, and the inhabitants are obliged to procure it from Bruges. It is preserved in enormous reser- voirs, which in summer too often diffuse anoisome and pestilential smell.The chief commerce is in linen of every kind. The houses being built very low, on account of the high winds that often blowfrom the sea, would give Ostend a mean ap- pearance, did not the width of the streets,the beauty of the market-place, and the im- mense size of many ofthe edifices excite re- collections of former grandeur. The town now contains only 10,000 inhabitants; among these are numerous English families, who experience one sad privation in possessing no religious edifice devoted to the Protestant worship. Ostend witnesses so great an influx ofFrench and English travellers, that French,English, and Flemish are spoken with almost equal facility by the merchants, and by those who are more immediately connected with the shipping. Even the signs of the inns,OSTEND . 371the inscriptions on the houses of the trades- men, and the common posting-bills , have usually a French, and sometimes an English translation annexed to them. The cornersof the streets are inscribed in French .The principal inns are, the Great St. Mi- chael, the Old St. Michael, the Bellevue, the English Hotel, the Crown, the Town-House,the Imperial Court, and the Rose, kept by Mr. Nicholson, an Englishman. The Great and the Little are the most frequented coffee- houses. Two fairs of eight days each com- mence June 27th and November 23d, Packet boats sail almostdaily fromOstend to London,or to some of the ports on the eastern coast ofEngland.During the summer a boat leaves Ostend every morning at five o'clock, and the tra- veller arrives at Bruges in sufficient time to proceed by a second vessel to Ghent on the same evening, The walk round the fortifi- cations of the town afford some pleasing views of the sea.SECT. XXVI. Route from Mons to Ostend.As the traveller may probably have landed at Ostend, and proceeded to Brussels by the route which I have just described, he may continue his progress from Mons (Route 21)through the south-western part of Flanders ,without retracing the steps which he has already trodden.372 MONS TO OSTEND .Mons to Ath...... ..Posts.3 ....Ath to Leuze.............. ILeuze to Tournay ........... 2Tournay to Courtray ......…… 3Courtray to Menin........... 1Menin to Ypres .............1424Ypres to143143324•..........................Miles.16284II197121515Rousbrugge....... 24Rousbrugge to Furnes . ......Extra charge for the 3dhorsein winter.Furnes to Ghistel ................ 19 Ghistel to Ostend ...... I23.... 512943-OnleavingMons the traveller passes through Nimy, crosses the river Haine, ascends a hill,and leaving Maisieres to the right, and passing another hill , passing Erbisœul on the left,and Masnuy-Saint-Jean on the right, arrives at Jurbise. Then passing Erbault on the left, and crossing a river, he reaches Lens.Then he passes Bauffe on his left, Cambron- Saint-Vincent on his right, Chievres on his left , Brugeleuc and Attre on his right, and Tongres on his left; afterwards crossing ariver and leaving Arbre on his right, he visits Maffle. Then passing Ormegnies, Moulbaix,Villers-Notre-Dame, and Irchonwels, on his left , he arrives at Ath.ATH . -GRAMMONT-. TOURNAY. 373ATH is a small, but strongly fortified , well- peopled and flourishing town, on the river Dender The Town-hall, arsenal, and church of Saint Julien, merit the traveller's attention.Near Ath is the Chateau de Bellœuil, celebratedfor its magnificent gardens. Its environs fur- nish abundance of flax and hemp, which employ some extensive manufactories. Afair ofnine days for cattle, wool, flax, &c. com- mences August 27th. The population is 7,600.Fifteen miles N. of Ath is GRAMMONT, on the Dender. In 1381 this town was taken by storm, and every soul put to the sword.On quitting Ath, the traveller crosses the river Dender, and soon arrives at Brantignies;then having Irchonwels on the left, he comes to Villers-Saint-Amand; afterwards passing a hill, again crossing the Dender, leaving Ligne to the right, going between Endricourt and Croix de Bourgogne, and leaving Catoire on his left, he reaches Wattines, and soon after, leaving la Chapelle on his right, arrives at the post-house at Leuse.Proceedingfrom Leuse and having Pipaix on the left , he reaches Trimont; then passing near Bariseul crossing a hill, traversing the wood of Barry for two miles, seeing Gauzain on the left, going near Romecroix, passing on the left Fontenoy, the scene of the cele- brated battle of 1745, in which Marshal Saxe defeated the Duke of Cumberland, he comes to Bourquembrays; then leaving Warchin on the right, he arrives at Tournay.TOURNAY is situated on the Scheldt, and is374 TOURNAY .supposed to derive its name from the five towers of the Cathedral. It is a bishop's see,with a strong castle. It was built 500 years before the Christian era, and was called by the Romans Civitas Nerviorum. The cathedral, the abbey Saint Martin, and some of the squares and public buildings are very magnificent. It is particularly noted for good stockings , and for a manufactory of carpets and coverings of tables, employing nearly 5,000 persons, This manufactory is con- ducted on the most liberal and benevolentplan, and a regular and decent provision is made for those who have grown old in the employment. Even the widows of the su- perannuatedworkmen receive a small annuity.Aconsiderable quantity of linen, woollen,and cotton stuffs of an inferior kind is madehere. Two china manufactories are celebrated for the brilliancy of their blue colour,andmany ornamental gilt and bronze articles are not inferior to the best productions ofParis.In the neighbourhood are some stone-quar- ries , and others which produce abundance of tolerable marble.Aroyal college is about to be established here. Tournay contains 21,000 inhabitants,and has been very often taken and retaken.The principal hotels are the Little Neve,the Golden Ape, the Imperial and the Em- press's Hotel . Fairs of ten days begin May 22, and September 23.Proceeding from Tournay, passing throughCOURTRAY. OUDENARDE. 375Sept- Fontaines, and viewing Froyennes on the left, the traveller arrives at Noel-Nis. Thenleaving Thain on the right, Ramegnies on the left, passing near Esquelmes, and having Bailleul on the left, he visits Calettes, andpassing Etaimbourg on the left, soon reaches Pecq-sur-L'Escaut. Going close byWarcoign having Saint-Leger on the left, passing by an hospital, crossing the river Tourcoign, leaving Espierre on the right and Dottignies on the left, he comes to Cocyghem; then crossing ahill, the wood of Sainte-Trinité, a valley, ahill, another valley, and a river, he arrives at Courtray.COURTRAY is celebrated for its manufactoriesoflace, table-linen, and wollen-cloth. It hassustained many memorable sieges, and now has 14,000 inhabitants. The finest flax is grown in the neighbourhood, and supplies many of the markets of Europe. Courtray is the general market for raw and spun flax.Afair of fifteen days begins on Easter Tues- day, and another of the same continuance, onAugust 24th, for every kind of merchandise.These fairs are much frequented.Eighteen miles N. w. ofCourtray is OUDE- NARDE, having a manufactory of very fine linen, and curious tapestry. Oudenarde claims the honour of having invented the beautiful tapestry of the 15th century. In 1708 it was besieged by the French, but they were attack- edby the Duke of Marlborough, and routed with the loss of 7,000 prisonners. Europe had not for many years produced two such noble376 NINOVE. MENIN. -TOURCOING.armies. Above 100 general officers appeared in the field; and 250 colonels fought at the head of their respective regiments. Oude- narde has a many handsome buildings, the principal of which is the town-house. It ma- nufactories are nankeens and tapestry. The number of inhabitants is estimated at 4,000.Midway between Oudenarde and Brussels is NINOVE, on the Dender. The abbey of Saint Cyprian is very magnificent .Continuing his route from Courtray, the traveller passes the hamlet of Niderbecke, then a river, and soon afterwards the village of Bisseghem . The road now lies between the rivers Niderbecke and Lys. Then having Marcke on the left, passing through Wevel- ghem, and leaving Lauwe and Reckem on the left , he arrives at Menin.MENIN is erected on the Lys, it contains about 6,000 inhabitants , and is famous for its beer, cloth, and table linen. Near Menin is the beautiful village of Isenghien. Fairs of nine days each begin on June 24th, and Oc- tober 17th. Between Menin and Lannoy is the large village of TOURCOING containing 12,000 inha- bitants. It has been three times destroyed by fire.On quitting Menin the road follows, for alittle way, the course of a river, then ascend- ing a hill, the traveller arrives at Gheluwe;after which, passing Zantvoord on the left,and Becelacre on the right, then traversing a forest for three miles , afterwards leavingYPRES. 377Zonnebeke on the right, and Zillebeke on the left, and crossing a riverand ahill , he reaches Ypres.TheYPRES on the Yperlee, is a pleasant well- built town containing 15,000 inhabitants. It is a fortified city, and a bishop's see.Town-hall and the cathedral are noble buildings. The former occupies a very consider- able part of the great square, and bespeaks the ancient population and prosperity of the town.Ypres is surrounded by extensive marshes, thepestilential effluvia of which gives a sallow hue to the complexions of the inhabitants,and are too often fatal to strangers . It is acommon proverb in Holland that a pale and sickly person looks dike the death's head of Ypres.This town has considerable manufactoriesof cloth, serges, ribands, and thread. The canal of Bosingen, and the New Cut, greatly expedite the conveyance of goods to Nieuport,Ostend, and Bruges. Diaper was so called,as being principally made in this town (D'Yper). In the 14th century Ypres con- tained more than treble its present popula- tion, and its manufactories alone employed20,000 persons .Fairs of ten days each, begin March 2d, and July 30th.The first place on the road to Rousbrugge is Briclen; then going by Vlaemertinghe on the left, crossing a river, and passing a little wood on the right, the traveller arrives at Elverdinghe. Proceeding thence, crossing 1 i.378 POPERINGHE . FURNES .-DIXMUDE .another river, passing near Gestene, and be- tween two woods, he comes to Oostvleteren.Crossing another river, leaving Westvleteren on the right, then crossing a fourth river, and passing the wood of Keyselaeres on the left,he reaches Crombeecke; andafterwards leaving Shavele on the right, crossing a fifth river,passing Proven on the left, and Beveren on the right, he arrives at Rousbrugge,Midway on the road between Ypres and Rousbrugge, and two miles to the left, is POPERINGHE, on the river of the same name,with a considerable traffic in serge. The hops of Poperinghe are much celebrated.From Rousbrugge to Furnes is a cross-road and a canal, by Breveren and Leyzel .FURNES is on the canal between Bruges and Dunkirk. It is small but pleasant and well built. The air is supposed to be unhealthy for strangers . Its commerce is in grain, hops cheese, and beer. It has the largest market for linen in Belgium, and contains 3,000 in- habitants. Fairs of eightdays each commence on March 26th, May 5th, and October 3d, for every kind of merchandise.Eight miles E. of Furnes is DIXMUDE, on the Yper. The great church is a noble building.The town has often been besieged aud burnt.It is celebrated for its excellent cheese, butter,and beer.At Furnes the traveller will find it mostpleasant, much shorter, and less expensive,to embark on the canal from Dunkirk toOstend. He will not meet with the conNIEUPORT. 379veniences to which he has been accustomedon some other canals, but he will have nogreat reason to complain. The canal passes through Oostdunkercke and Nieuport.At NIEUPORT are sluices by which the neigh- bouring country can be laid under water.The principal traffic is in herrings, nets, and ropes. The air is unhealthy, and the garrison is frequently changed.Beyond Nieuport the canal passes through Wilskerck and Plassendocle, to Ostend. Atthe latter village itjoins the canal from Bru- ges to Ostend.If the traveller is encumbered with a carriage, or determined to go post, or by the coach, he must proceed to Ghistel.Leaving Steenkercke on his right, crossing ariver and passing Eggewaerts and Zoutenay on his right, he goes through Aven-Capelle.Then crossing a river, passing Saint-Heer- willems- Capelle on the left, and crossing another river, he reaches Saint-Catherine- Capelle. Then leaving Stuvekinskercke on the right, he passes through Perwyse, crosses several rivers, goes near Schoore, crosses ano- ther river, passes Mannekensvere on his left,and Leke on his right, goes through Saint- Peters-Capelle, passes Slype on the left, and Zande on the right, and visiting Sevecote,arrives at Ghistel, where he changes horses.This little place affording nothing particu- lar, he crosses a river, leaves Snaeskercke on the right, crosses the Nieuport canal, passes Wilskercke and Lessinghe on the left, Steene380 ROUTE FROM PARISon the right, Mariakercke on the left, and crossing a river, arrives at Ostend (page 305.)SECT. XXVII. Routefrom Paris to Brussels.As the metropolis ofFrance is yet the prin- cipal object of attraction, notwithstanding she hasbeencompelled to restore all the treasuresof art with which she had enriched herself atthe expense of every neighbouring country,and the traveller may probably have been induced to pay her his first visit , I shall con- cludemyworkwith adescription of the route from Paris to Brussels .Previous to his leaving Paris, his passport must be sent to the British ambassador to becountersigned. It should be sent one or two days before the traveller intends to commence his journey, lest any accidental delay should disarrange his plans. The ambassador will sign no passport before 12 o'clock, and the business of every public office closes at 4.After the passport is returned from the English ambassador, it must be transmittedto the office for passports, Rue de Bac, where it is likewise countersigned, and for this a fee of 10 francs is demanded. It must then beagain countersigned by the ambassador from the Netherlands .The same formalities are necessary should the_traveller wish to proceed from Brussels to Paris.He will probably journey from Paris toTO BRUSSELS . 381Brussels, or vice-versa, by the diligence, which is neither uncomfortable nor unsafe.Posts.Paris to Bourget............ 1Bourget to Louvres .......... 1Louvres to La Chapelle-enServal ....... ... ILaChapelle- en-Serval to Senlis. ISenlis to Pont-Sainte-Maxence .Pont-Sainte- Maxence to Boisde-Lihus ..... IBois-de-Lihus to Gournay-surAronde..... ..... IGournay-sur-Aronde to Cuvilly. ICuvilly to Conchy- les-Pots .... IConchy-les-Pots to Roye.... IRoye to Fonches ........Fonches to Marché-le-Pot..... I......Marché-le-Pot to Péronne....Péronne to Fins .......Fins to Bonavy .............Bonavy to Cambray .........Cambray to Bouchain .. ....II2I..............................................................Miles.84884528484755844552284II8484... 2 .... IIBouchain to Valenciennes .... 2Valenciennes to Quievrain....Quievrain to Boussu .........Boussu to Mons ..... 12.... 84..............Mons to Soignies ............ Soignies to La Genette .......784II842........382 BELLEVILLE, &c.Posts. Miles.La Genette to Hal........... 1Hal to Brussels ......... ....... 842 .... 11374 205The traveller leaves Paris by the gate and suburb of St. Martin. Onhis left is the rising ground and the quarries ofBelleville. The delightful situation of this village has deser- vedly conferred on it the name which it bears.Not only the whole of Paris is presented to the view, but the eye wanders over a far dis- tant tract of country beautifully studded with trees and villas. Montfaucon is likewise onthe left. On the right is Pré-Saint-Gervais,with its little hills prettily covered with vi- neyards and orchards. Farther on are La Chapelle, and the numerous windmills of Montmartre on the left.Wenow go through La Villette, andpassing the second stone (1 ) have Pantin on the right,and afterwards Romainville and Noisy at the foot of a hill .After the third stone Vertus and SaintDenisare on the left. This last village is celebrated for its venerable and majestic abbey. Baubi- gny then occurs on the right, and Bondy, of whose forest the most tragical tales are yet told, and Livry. The road afterwards passes near the chateau of Raincy belonging to the(*) The space included between these stones is equal to nearlya mile and a third English.ARNOUVILLE. 383present Duke of Orleans, and the park and gardens of which are extremely picturesque.Thefourth mile-stone brings us to a charm- ing view. We then cross the river Mont- ford, and some beautiful meadows; Crevecœur is now on our left, and soon afterwards LaCour Neuve, and Petit-Drancy on the right.Passing the fifth stone, and leaving a bat- teryand the avenue to the chateau and village ofGrand-Drancy on the right, we cross the little river Groslay and arrive at the village ofBourget, full of coffee-houses and taverns .Having changed horses, we leave Blancme- nil and Coudray on the right, and Stains on the left, and passing through Pont-Yblon,and crossing the little river Tremblay, arrive at the seventh stone.Leaving Garges, Bonneuil , and Arnouville on the left, we pass the eighth stone. ARNOUVILLE is situated on the bank of the littleriver Cran. The park which contains about 300 acres , although it is laid out in the old French taste, is beautifully diversified with groves, lawns, cascades , and sheets of water.The appearance of the village is much admi- red. All the streets centre in a spacious lawn ornamented by a noble fountain.Proceeding on our journey we enjoy a beau- tiful view of the surrounding country, and leaving Gonnesse aud Thillay on the left ,pass the ninth and tenth stones. Gonnesse carries on a considerable trade in grain and flour, and has some large manufactories of soap. The bread which is made here is most excellent, and supplies a great part of Paris.384 LOUVRES.Gonesse was the birth-place ofPhilip Augus- tus, ofthe thirddynasty ofthe kings ofFrance.Going through Vandelant, crossing a hill,passing a battery, leaving Goussainville on the left, and then being presented with abeautiful prospect, we arrive at the eleventh stone. Thenleaving Bonqueval and Plessis- Gassot on the left, passing the 12th stone,and a rapid declivity, we arrive at Louvres which is the second relay. LOUVRES is prin- cipally supported by the manufactory oflace.The steeple of one of the churches is much admired.On quitting Louvres, we pass by the side ofthe park and chateau, soon after which the road lies between two chains of mountains;then leaving Epiais, Mauregard, Le Mesnel,and Chenevieres, on the right, and Fontenay- les-Louvres on the left, we pass the thirteenthstone.Leaving Villeron on the right, and Coudray wood, and the villages of Puiseux , Chatenay,and Barcy, on the left; and then passing by the beautiful avenue which leads to Marly-la- Ville, we reach the fourteenth stone. Leaving Vemars on the right, and passing a steep declivity, and afterwards the hill ofGuespelle,with Saint-Vy, and Survilliers on the right;passing the sixteenth stone, then crossing the hill and avenue of Beaumont, having the woods of Nibert and Herivaux on the teft,going through an avenue of trees , and then leaving Plailly, and Mortfontaine, and Ory,onthe left, and passing the seventeenth stone,SENLIS. 385we arrive at the third relay in La Chapelle- en-Serval .Traversing awood, then leaving Neufmou- lin on the right, and a little farther on, the wood of Morière, crossing a small river, leav- ing Mongressin and the forest of Chantilly on the left, and Thiers on the right, we reach Pontarmé a little beyond the nineteenth stone. After crossing the river Thève, we traverse the forest ofPontaimé for three miles,and issuing from it at the twenty-first stone have a grand view of Senlis. Then leaving Saint-Leonard, Courteuil, and Saint-Nicolas on the left, and passing through the suburb,and crossing the river Nonnette, we arrive at Senlis.SENLIS is nearly surrounded by forests, and contains, 4,400 inhabitants. It is a bishop's see. The cathedral is a magnificent structure ,and the steeple is one of the highest in France Senlis traces its origin to the Romans, by whom the walls of the town were built.This town suffered much in the late campaigns. A sanguinary battle took place in the neighbourhood between Marshal Blucher and Generals Grouchy and Vandamme, who were hastening to cover the French capital.Senlis has considerable trade in grain, wine,wood, and beautiful porcelain, and has ma- nufactories of cotton, coarse-cloth, paper,lace, and buttons. Its bleaching-grounds are extensive, and its quarries afford excellent stone. Afair of nine days begins April 25,xk386 PONT- SAINT-MAXENCE .and of eight days October 21 , for toys, mercery, etc.On quitting Senlis, we pass along the Bou- levard, then through an avenue oftrees, and down a rapid declivity; we next ascend a hill,have Vilvert on the left, pass some quarries ,leave Chamant, Balagny, and Barbery, on the right, and crossing a valley and an avenue through which we mayperceive Champlatreux below the forest of Chantilly, we arrive at the twenty-fourth stone. We now traverse the forest of Hallette for nearly two miles,and passing the sands of Aumont on the left.reach Fleurines beyond the twenty-fifth stone;then leaving Saint Christophe on the right.the road again lying through the forest for two miles, descending a hill, and passing by a fountain, we arrive at Pont- Saint Maxence.PONT- SAINT MAXENCE contains 3,000 inha- bitants,whose principal trade is ingrain,comb (ofwhich there is a large manufactory), and leather. Manyparts ofthe townbear evident traces of its having been the scene of military conflict, and much of it was destroyed in the hasty retreat of the French before the allies in 1815.Aswedepartfrom this town we cross a bridge over the river Oise, from which we may see Beaurepaire, Brenouille, and Rieux, on the left; then going through the suburb of Flan- ders, following the course of a little river,and passing by a small wood and some mea- dows, we arrive at the thirtieth stone. Nextpassing Plessis-Longueau on the left, passingBLINCOURT, BOIS-DE- LIHUS, &c. 387by a large piece of water with an island in the centre, and soon afterwards several inns;leaving the wood of Bazincourt on the left,going near Saint Martin Longueau, having Drancourt and Sacy-le-Grand on the left,and Sacy-le-Petit on the right, then enjoying abeautiful prospect, and afterwards leaving Choisy and Avrigny on the left, we reach Blincourt. Then passing La-Motte-d'Ancourt onthe left, going through an avenue of trees ,leavingArcy to the right, and skirting the wood of Lihus, we arrive at the hamlet andpost-house of Bois-de-Lihus .On quitting Lihus we have another fine view, and leaving Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre and Bailleul-le-Sec on the left, and Moyvillers on the right we reach Estrée-Saint-Denis. The wood ofRemyis now on the right, after which skirting the wood of Fresnel, leaving on the right the wood and village of Francières, and a little farther off Remy and Lachelle, skirting the village of Henneviller, and soon after having a noble view towards Gournay; then leaving Arsonval , and the wood of Monchy on the right, and, a little farther off, the mountain of Ganelon, and the forest ofCom- piegne; next passing a rapid descent, a canal,some meadows, the river Aronde, and having on the left Moyenneville, La-Neuville, Prom- leroy, and Angiviller, we arrive at the village and post-house ofGournay-sur-Aronde.Proceeding on our journey, we pass Neufoy onthe left, descend ahill, cross a small stream,and have the river Somme d'Or on the right,388 GOURNAY-SUR-ARONDE, &c.and crossing a little hill, about a mile from the end ofa wood we enter Saint-Maur. Thenpassing a long and steep hill, and the wood ofTaulle, and leaving Ressons on the right,we arrive opposite the chateau of Sechelles;and leaving Bellicourt on the right, and Taulle on the left, we reach Cuvilly.Having changed horses, and passingMorte- mer on the left, and Great and Little Blermonton the right, we enter Orville; and proceed- ing thence, crossing a bridge, having Hain- viller onthe left, then passing a valley and a bridge, and skirting the wood ofBlermont on the right, we arrive at Conchy-les-Pots.Leaving this place we soon reach Plessier- Saint-Nicaise; then having Boulogne on the left, we enter some woods opposite Vaussoir,and passing Mézière-le-Bus on the left, and Cessier and Crapeau-Mesnil on the right, we enter Tilloloy. Next skirting the park of Tilloloy, going by Beuvraines on the left,passing some warrens, having Amy on the right, the woods and villages ofPopincourt and Dancourt on the left, and Verpillières on the right; then passing near Lancourt, with Royéglise, and alittle farther off, Champien on the right, and St. Mard on the left, and afterwards St. Georges on the right, and then traversing the suburb ofSt. Gilles, and cross- ing the river Avre, we arrive at Roye.ROYE contains 2,000 inhabitants. Some mineral waters have been discovered here which are much extolled . The principalLIANCOURT, &c. 38gemployment is knitting, and weaving worst- ed stockings, and spinning cotton thread.The biscuits of Roye are much admired,and the ramparts afford a delightful prome- nade.On quitting Roye we pass through the suburb of St. Pierre, and crossing a valley.and a bridge, leaving Carrepuis on the right,Goyencourt and Damery on the left, Marché- la-Louarde on the right, Fresnoy-les-Roye on the left, Tilloy, Retonviller, and Cremery,on the right, and La Chavette on the left, we reach Liancourt. Then passing along the edge of the wood ofLiancourt, leavingHerely on the right, Hattencourt, Fransart, Chateau Bleu, and Fronquecourt, on the left, and Es- talon on the right, we arrive at Fonches.Crossing the bridge, wenext visit Fonchette;then leaving Punchy, Hallus, Chilly, and Maurecourt, successivily on the left, and Cur- chy on the right, passing near Nesle and Puzeau, and leaving Petit-Liancourt and Ber- saucourt on the right, we reach Omiecourt- le-Mont-Royard. Proceeding thence, and leaving Pertain on the right, and Saint-Leger on the left, crossing a wood and valley, and leaving Licourt on the right at the entrance of a wood, and Pressoir, on the left, we come to Marché-le-Pot.Quitting Marché-le-Pot, passing through an avenue of trees, passing Gomiecourt andAblin- court on the left, and the wood and village ofMisery on the right, and crossing a bridge and a valley, we enter Mazancourt. Then k.390 PERONNE.leaving Fresnes, Berny,Deniecourt, andSoye- court, on the left, crossing a wood and abridge, passing Horgny on the left, and Briot,Saint-Christ , Athis, and Ennemain, on the right, we reach Villers-Carbonnel. Proceed- ing hence, and having Belloy on the left, and Brie- sur-Somme on the right, we discoverPeronne at a distance. Then passing a valley and a bridge, going near Etrepigny, leaving Berleux on the left, crossing a rivulet, passing Lamiré and Mesnil - Bruntel on the right,crossing the canal, leaving La Pellette and Bayencourt on the right, and crossing the Somme, we enter Peronne by the gate of Paris.PERONNE is strongly fortified, and nearly surrounded by marshes, Charles the Simple was imprisoned in the castle, and ended his days there in a wretched manner. Louis XI.was detained in the fortress by the Duke of Burgundy, until he consented to ratify a dis- advantageous treaty. It has some manufac- tories of linen, cotton, cambric, and paper,and contains 3,800 inhabitants. It is said to possess a peculiar and excellent breed of mas- tiff dogs,Peronne was denominated La Pucelle, orthe virgin fortress, in consequence of its never having been taken, although very frequently besieged. In the short campaign of 1815, it forfeited its claim to this honourable title.After the fatal battle of Waterloo it wasgarrisoned by some battalions ofthe national uard. When the English army advancedPERONNE, &c. 391towards Paris, an officer of the engineers was despatched to summonthe fortress of Peronne.By strange and most culpable neglect he was admitted into the fortifications without being previously blind-folded. Makingthe best use ofthe unexpected advantage that was afforded him, he discovered that one ofthe outworkspresented some weak points, and, on his return ,proposed to attempt it by escalade. The proposal was adopted. He headed the scaling party, and the virgin-fortress was soon car- ried.Wequit Peronne by the gate ofArras, and passing through the suburb of Brétaine, leave Doight on the right, and cross a valley and a bridge; then traversing a long hill, leaving Bussu on the right, and Mont-Saint Quentin and Aleines on the left, and skirting the wood of Bussu, we enjoy a beautiful prospect. Af- terwards leaving Driencourt, Templeux- la- Fosse, Longavenne, and Villers-Faucon, on the right, passing by the wood of Seve, and having Moislains to the left, passing between the woods of De-la-Ville and Pinelle, and leav- ing Hescourt-le-Bas and Lieramont on the right, we approach Murlu, and can perceive Saint Quentin at a distance to the s. E. noble prospect is here presented to us.leaving Murlu at a little distance, and Ma- nancourt and Etricourt on the left, and, after a steep hill, Sorel andHeudicourt on the right,we arrive at Fins .ANowHaving changed horses at Fins, we cross avalley, ascend asteep hill, skirt the wood of392 BONAVY.-QUESNEL, &c.Metz-en-Couture, then traverse a considerable chain of mountains, and after several hillsand valleys, pass Ribecourt and Flesquiers to the left. We then cross several otherlittle hills and valleys, and through an avenue of trees , and leaving Honnecourt, Vendhuille,where the subterranean canal of St. Quentin begins, andBanteux-sur-l'Escaut on the right,we arrive at Bonavy. The traveller should pause at Vendhuille,and visit the tunnel of the canal. It extendsto the incredible length of nearly four miles and a half under ground. The history of inland navigation scarcely affords a more extraordinary or interesting undertaking. The diligence passes near one end of the tunnel,and will readily wait a short time while the stranger enters the stupendous excavation.The canal unites the river Somme to theScheldt, and was completed byNapoleon.Near Bonavy is the ancient abbey of Vau- celles. The wood that surrounds it, and the canal which flows under its walls, render its situation exceedingly pleasant.Leaving Bonavy, and passing near the wood ofLaleau, we come to Quesnel. Then ascend- ing a long hill, and leaving the avenue that leads to Crevecœur on the right, we cross the Scheldt, and arrive at Manieres. Afterwards climbing a streep ascent, passing Marcoing andFlesquieres on the left, and Rumillyon the right, crossing the wood of St. Sepulchre, and then a hill and valley, going by the hotel of Rumally, passing Noyelle on the left, andCAMBRAY. 393Florenville and Serenville on the right, and traversing the suburb of St. Sepulchre, we enter Cambray by the bridge and gate of St. Sepulchre.CAMBRAY was aRoman colony, and is of such antiquity that many historians attribute its foundation to Camber,king ofthe Sicambri,who lived in the time of Servius Tullius, the sixth king ofRome. The metropolitan church was anoble specimen of ancient architecture ,but it was destroyed during the Revolution;and the beautiful tower which was then spa- redwas overthrown by a hurricane in 1809.The streets of Cambray are well built, and the great square is much admired. The town- hall is of modern architecture, and very magnificent. The citadel , placed on an emi- nence, has a grand appearance. The pyra- midal steeple of the great church is acurious object. Cambray has long been the head- quarters of the Duke of Wellington, as com- mander-in-chief of the allied army which oc- cupies the French frontiers.Cambray is an archbishop's see, and was honoured by the residence of the immortal Fenelon. The remains ofthis great man were dug out of the ruins of the metropolitain church, and are preserved in the oratory of the hospital for the education of poor girls.The tomb of Archbishop Vanderburch, in the same oratory, is sumptuous and elegant.Before the Revolution, Cambray contained no less than twelve churches. Only two of these remain; and they are robbed oftheir394 CAMBRAY.principal ornaments. The others are either entirely demolished, or perverted to some profaneuse.The commerce of Cambray and its environs must always be prosperous, because it is prin- cipally founded on the produce of the soil.Abundance of corn, flax, hemp, tobacco,hops, and chamomile, are grown in theneigh- bourhood. There are likewise manufactoriesofcloth , linen, cambric ( which takes its name from this town), lace, gauze, tapestry, leather,nails, thread, oil, beer, geneva, and rope.The number of inhabitants is 14,800. Fairs of nine days each begin April 25th and October 27th .The face of the country now begins to change, and to the straight roads, the clipped elms, and to the boundless plains, over which the traveller has journeyed almost the whole wayfrom Paris, and onwhich for many a mile a human habitation did not presentitself, succeed a thickly-wooded soil, most highly cultivated, with innumerable village- spires peeping above the trees in every di- rection.As he approaches the Belgic frontier , the tourist will begin to be annoyed by the doua- niers , or custom-house officers, who at almost every post, and every toll-gate will stop and examine his baggage. These gentlemen are usually sufficiently obliging, unless thestranger provoke a strict investigation, or unnecessary delay by his petulance and ill-humour. For a very trifling sum he may escape much ofBOUCHAIN. 395this inconvenience. The officer at the firstcustom-house near the frontiers, will, for afranc or two, plumb , or affix the official seal on theportmanteau. Acordis drawn tightly round it, the end of which is passed through apiece of lead, and this is stamped with the arms of the custom-house. A certificate islikewise given, that this was affixed by an of- ficer duly authorized. The traveller must shew this whenever a douanier appears, and he will be permitted to pass on without trou- ble or delay.We quit Cambray by the gate of Notre Dame, and going through an avenue of trees,and passing bysome quarries of white stone,arrive at Escau - d'Oeuvres. Then leaving Moranchies , Ramillies, and Cuvilliers, on theleft, Cagnoncle on the right, Esward, Thun- l'Eveque, and ThunSaintMartin on the right,we pass an hotel, and leaving Naves, Riew de Cambresis, and Avesnes on the right, and crossing a valley, we reach Jouy. We next cross the river Herclain, pass the church of Riew, leave Estrun, and awood containing an encampment of Cæsar, on the left, cross alittle hill and avenue, leave Avesnes-le-Sec ontheright, and Hordaingand Wavrechin on the left, then proceeding between the valley andthe river Cense, we pass the barrier, and along the glacis of Bouchain,BOUCHAIN is a pretty, well-fortified town ,built by Pepin the Short, in commemoration of a victory which he gained in the neighbour- hood, over Thierry, king ofthe Goths.396 VALENCIENNES.Departing from Bouchain, and crossing avalley, we leave Saulchoir: Mastaing, Azin- court, ( a name never to be forgotten in the annals ofBritish warfare,) and Mont-de-Cantin,on the left , Noyelle and Ourche on the right,then Rœult, Abscon, Neuville, Escaudin, and Hellesmes, on the left, and crossing a valley,arrive at Douchy. Then crossing the river Selles, and the avenue of the wood of Denain,abeautiful prospect presents itself, and pass- ing Wavrechin on the left, and crossing the canal of Cambray, and afterwards another bridge, and some marshy ground, we reach Rouvegny. Afterwards leaving on the right Rouvy, Thijant, and Monchaux in the valley through which runs the Escaillon, we enjoy another delightful prospect, and passing Oisy andAubry on the left, enter Herin. Quit- ting this place we have another fine view, and leaving Maing, Trith-Saint-Leger, and Famars, on the right, and passing by Saint Leger, and through the suburb ofNotre Dame,we enter Valenciennes over a bridge across the Scheldt.The situation of VALENCIENNES is uncommonly pleasant. The foundation ofthis city is attributed to the Emperor Valentinian I. ,in the year 867. To people it, he resorted to the measures which Romulus had employed,and offered an asylum to all who fled from their creditors, or from the vengeance of the law.At a little distance, the spires are seen rising above the houses, and not one appearance ofVALENCIENNES, &c. 397fortification can be discerned; but, on anearer approach, the high walls, the deep ditches,and themassive gates, convey anidea ofalmost impregnable strength. Nature and Art have indeed conspired to render it one of the strongest places on the frontiers. The siege which it underwent at the commencementof the revolutionary war will not soon be forgotten. Theplace at which the English forced their entrance is shewn to the traveller,and the impressions of the balls are not yet effaced. The citadel was constructed by the celebrated Vauban.The field of battle of Famars is seen fromthe ramparts, and the monument erected to the memory ofGeneral Dampierre. Valen- ciennes was the birth-place of the historian Froissard , and the painter Wateau.Thestreets are narrow, crooked and ill built,and altogether different from those of Cam- bray. The grand square is very handsome.Thewomenare said to be remarkably pretty;indeed this is the general character of the fe- males of the frontier towns .Valenciennes has some celebrated manufactories of cambric and lace. Much linen,gauze, and porcelain are likewise made here.It contains 18,000 inhabitants. Afair of tendays begins on September 8th.The theatre, andthe promenade of Napoleon Square, are worth visiting.The Christian is an excellent inn, and Madame Gonion's is the best coffee-house.Leaving Valenciennes by thegate ofMons L1398 QUIEVRAIN. BOUSSU .we pass through Lambert, Saint Sauve, On- naing, andQuarouble; then having Wich on the left, skirting the wood of Anbélize, leaving Quevrechin on the right, and crossing the bridge of Corbeau, and afterwards the river Hougneaux, we arrive at Quievrain. This neighbourhood contains many coal-mines of excellent quality.Afterclimbing and soon afterwards descend- ing a hill, crossing a river, and presently asecond bridge, having Haynin on the left,going near Dour, passing some coal-mines,and through the wood of Beaugis, we reach Boussu .Having changed horses, and passed through Hornu, leaving some coal-mines on the right,crossing a river, and having Framerie on the right, we visit Queregnon; then leaving Pa- turages on the right and crossing a bridge, we enter Jemappes, celebrated for the victory of GeneralDumourier over the Austrians in 1792.Leaving Cuesmes on the right, we next arrive at La Motte. Alarge sluice is now opposite to us. Crossing the Treulle, leaving Saint Ghislain on the left, passing many country- houses and beautiful walks, we enter Mons by the gate of France.The city of Mons, and the route to Brussels ,have already been described in page 347.ROUTE FROM PARIS TO ANTWERP . 399SECOND ROUTE FROM PARIS TO ANTWERP, THROUGHSAINT-QUENTIN, MONS, & BRUSSELLES .Names of the Relays. Leagues.Le Bourget.... .............Louvres*La Chapelle en Serval......Senlis*3... 3..... 3.... 2.... 3............. 32... 3........... 2নানVilleneuve sur Verberie ...La Croix St. Oyen .....(a) Compiègne ... Ribecourt......(b) Noyon....………… (c) Magny Guiscard .Ham ..Roupy.......……… (d) Saint Quentin .Bélicourt...Bonavis .Cambray*Bouchain...................... 3.. 2112...... 3.... .. ...Valenciennes*.Quievrain*...QuaregnonMons*.Bruxelles..Malines* .Anvers*•...................................2332 3344 12332135• 543 p. 86 1 .400 ROUTE FROM PARISCOMMUNICATIONS FROM LA CHAPELLE EN SERVALΤΟ ΝΑΝΤEUIL LE HAUDOUIN.(e) Mortefontaine Nanteuil le Haudouin* ....... 2....... 4From Ham to Beauvoir........... 31FROM ANVERS TO ROTTERDAM.From Anvers to the Coin d'Argent .. 6Coind'Argent to Cruystaerte (foreignpost) ............ .... 7(a) COMPIÈGNE, on the left bank of the Oise. This town is adorned by a handsome bridge, by several de- lightful promenades, and above all.by its magnificent château, which has been repaired, and a new gallery of exquisite beauty added: the large rooms have been dis- posed in the most commodious manner, and the whole of the interior has been embellished, and fitted up in amodern style. The most conspicuous are, the cabinet,bedroom, and library of the King. The great cabinet,the whole of which is furnished with tapestry of the Gobelins, and ornamented with curious pictures and rich candelabras, has a very imposing appearance. The library, executed in French wood, imitating inahogany,and ornamented with gilt bronzes, contains some useful books and scarce manuscripts. Nothing can equal the magnificence and taste which pervade both in the or naments and furniture. The great hall is decorated with stucco, to represent agate, and ornamented with four pictures, representing the four seasons; the ceiling is likewise painted. The first hall displays on the ceil- ingand attics, cameos, which have a fine effect, The bedroom surpasses in magnificence all the other appart- ments; the bed exhibits two cornucopias filled with fruits and flowers; the top ofit is composed ofa crown of flowers. The white hangings, ornamentedwith goldTO ANTWERP . 401lace and fringe, are supported by two statues of gilt wood, four feet and a half high. At the back of the bed hangs a Roman silk drapery, on orange ground withgold flowers: the seats of the chairs are similar to the drapery. In short, this apartment unites richness to elegance, and is considered by connoiseurs the most beautiful in France. The plantation of the gardens has been finished, as well as the erection of an arbour of iron frame work 4,800 feet in length, and 14 feet broad.This arbour leads from the steps of the house to the château in the forest, and affords the walker a pleasant and convenient shade against the heat of the sun. Acanal has been cut the same length, on which his Majesty mayproceed in a boatfromthe château to the first hunting station.Compiègne was the birthplace of Jacques Billy, acelebrated astronomer. The church of St. Corneillepossessed the first organ. The Maid of Orleans was taken by the English at the siege of this town, in asortie, and burnt alive at Rouen, in 1470. Under Louis XV. the camps of Compiègne were celebrated; many of these camps had the name of Verberie. Compiègne has aforest of 28,000 acres, well supplied with roads for hunting. Itmanufactures stockings, linen cloths, lace,and cottons .Fairs. 30th April, and 23d October.Inn. Le Lion d'Or. Population, 6,420.(b) Novon, an ancient town on the Vorse near the Oise, is situated on the declivity of a rich valley: it is tolerably well built. Cæsar besieged it, and took it:the Normans pillaged it in 859, 1131, and 1228; and the Spaniards burnt it after the battle ofSt. Quentin.The famous John Calvin was born here. It manufactures cotton, linen, cloth, flax, hemp, and hosiery, and trades in corn and ashes. In its environs is a coal-mine.Inn. Hotel des Chevalets. Population,6,000.(C) MAGNY GUISCARD, a market-town, trades in corn,fire-wood, and fresh-water fish. In its neighbourhood is asilver-mine, fendered useless by the abundance of its springs.(d) ST. QUENTIN, an ancient, celebrated, and strong town on the Somme. It carries on a considerable trade:the industry of its inhabitants is displayed in so many agreeable and varied forms, that it is celebrated402 ROUTE FROM PARIS.throughout Europe. It is connectedwiththe Oise by a canal, hence with the Seine, and from the Seine, by the canal ofBriare, with the Loire. The canal bears the name of the town where it commences, afterwards that of the Oise to the Somme. After having run pa- rallel with the Scheldt, it joins that river near Cambray.There are two places where it passes underneath moun- tains, one for a distance of 559 toises, the other for 3,913 toises. The flax this town produces is excellent. It manufactures cambrics, lawns, gauzes, crapes, strong muslins, printed calicoes, very fine muslins, cotton cloths, cotton and silk staffs , dimities, figured waist- coats embroidered in gold and silver, soap, and vitriol.It has bleaching manufactories.Fairs. 29th June, and 9th October.Inns. La Petite Notre Dame, le Pot d'Etain, and J'Hotel d'Angleterre. Population, 10,500.(e) MORTEFONTAINE. Here is a superb castle, which formerly belonged to Joseph Napoleon, king of Naples ..TO ANTWERP . 403No. 20. THIRD ROUTE FROM PARIS TO ANTWERP,THROUGH SOISSONS, MONS, AND GRAMMONT.Names of the Relays .AvesnesLeagues........ 494... 56... 512634(a) Maubeuge ....Mons*..(b) Ath.......(d) Alost..............(c) Grammont ...........(e) Termonde .(f) Saint Nicholas .La Tête de Flandre . .... 4543 p. 87 1 .COMMUNICATION.From Termonde to Quadrecht .... 5 p.(a) MAUBEUGE, a fortified town on the Sambre. It is famous for its manufacture of arms, nails, and wrought and cast iron. In its environs are coal-mines, and quarries of slate and marble. The French obtained avictory over the Austrians at this place in 1793: the latter were obliged to raise the siege after having lost 6,000 men. It was besieged by the Allies in 1815.Inn. Hotel de l'Aigle.(b) ATH, on the Dendre. This borough has many soap manufactories and salt houses. Its vicinity fur- nishes abundance of flax and hemp, that supply its ma- nufacture of beautiful linens, which are in much request.Population, 7,634.(c)GRAMMONT, on the right bank of the Dendre,404 ROUTE FROM PARIS TO ANTWERP.This little town trades in tobacco, and linens of dif- ferent kinds .(d) ALOST, on the Dendre, where this river forms acanal as far as Termonde. This town traffics in flax,lawn, hops ofthe best quality, and oil ofcolza. It has calico printing-houses, soap manufactories, and salt- houses. Pins, lace, tobacco-pipes, and earthenware, are also made here.(e) TERMONDE. This town is situated at the con- fluence of the Dendre and Scheldt, in a beautiful mea- dow easily inundated by sluices. It manufactures printedcalico.(f) SAINT NICHOLAS. This town has manufactories of cotton handkerchiefs, woollen stuffs, cotton stockings,ribands, hats, soap, snuff, and sugar. It has tanyards.Printed by A. BELIN.THE END .CONTENTS.Pag.Boundaries, Extent, and Climate of the Netherlands, IHistory of the Netherlands .3Religion of the Netherlands. 25Constitution and Government of the Netherlands . 29 Manners and Customs. ,38Natural Productions and Agriculture. 60Commerce. 68Dykes, Canals, and Rivers.ワ 21 Coins of Belgium and France 83-84-85 Directions to the Traveller. 86Voyage to the Netherlands. 89 Arrival at Helvoetsluys . 92 Dutch Inns . 95 Route from Helvoetsluys to Rotterdam. 97 Mode of Travelling in Holland. 103Islands of Zealand. 113Rotterdam to Amsterdam. 119 Route fromRotterdam to Amsterdam throughGouda. 163 from Amsterdam to the Helder.. 165Voyage from the Helder to Amsterdam.. 169 Visit to Naarden. 173 Route from Amsterdam to Utrecht. 174 from Utrecht to Groningen. 177 from Groningen to Arnheim. 190 Voyage down the Rhine and Leck from Arnheim to Rotterdam.. 198 Voyage up the Waal from Rotterdam to Nimeguen. 201 Route from Nimeguen to Brussels . 207 from Brussels to Macstricht. 293 from Maestricht to Ruremonde. 304 from Maestricht through Aix-la-Chapelle to Liege 306from Liege to Mons. 321from Liege to Luxemburg. 334from Luxemburg to Namur. 341 from Mons to Brussels . 347 from Brussels to Ostend. 350from Mons to Ostend.. 371 from Paris to Brussels.380bINDEXOfthe principal Places mentioned in this work.Pag. Pag.Aix-la-Chapelle...Amsterdam..Antwerp or Anvers.Arnheim .Bergen-op-Zoom.Bois-le-Duc.308 Leyden. 127 143 Liege. 318216 Ligny.. 329 196 Louvain. 294 215 Luxemburg. 335-340 209 Maestricht .300Breda. 211 Mechlin. 228Brill .. 97 Menin.376 Brock. 161 Mons. 333Bruges.. 364 Mount St. John ( Wa- Brussels. 235 terloo ). 288Environs of.. 277 Namur. 324 Cambray. 393 Ostend.. 369 Charleroi. 330 Peronne .. 390Cologne.. 197 Quatre Bras.. 283Courtray. 375 Rhine, before it enters Delft . 119 the Netherlands . 198 Dinant . 328 Rotterdam . 100Dort or Dortrecht. 202 Saardam. 160Fleurus. 329 Senlis.. 385Flushing 115 Soignies (forest of) . 284Furnes . 378 Spa. 337 Gemappe or Genappe Statue of Erasmus at 281 and 334 Rotterdam . 103Ghent or Gand.. 352 Tirlemont. 297 Groningen.. 188 Tournay . 373 Haarlam.. 137 Utrecht.. 175 Hague.122 Valenciennes . 396 Helder.. 168 Walcheren. 114 Hougoumont. 282 Waterloo ( village and Jemappes or Genappe. field of) . 288281 and 334 Ypres . 377La-Haye-Sainte ...La Belle Alliance. 277 Zealand( Island of ) .281 Zuyder-Zeę.. 113. .. 1691Princeton University Library32101 073846667

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See also

  • Brussels, and Its Environs (1816) by J.B. Romberg

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